# Hymer won't start after sitting around



## Deleted member 79039 (Nov 4, 2018)

Hi everyone,

Here it is, my first proper problem, and it's with my Father's Hymer. I need to get it started and unfortunately he didn't get time to tell me HOW.

I'm no mechanical idiot but I'm sure I'm missing something. It's been sat for 7 weeks now without being turned over. I've got jump leads on so there's loads of voltage but regardless of Choke position and fiddling with the throttle... letting it sit for a while... it just won't fire. After turning it over for a few seconds there is some smoke coming from the exhaust but that's it.

The only mystery is the red kill-switch in the attached photo (bottom left)... but that seems to link the leisure circuitry somehow.

It's a Ducato engine BTW.

Any suggestions gratefully received!


Giles


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## delicagirl (Nov 4, 2018)

i dont have a Hymer  -  but i wonder if your dad had installed a secret anti theft device ?  he was full of tricks like that.....


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## martinmartin (Nov 4, 2018)

How about looking at the rotor arm in the distributor?


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## Deleted member 79039 (Nov 4, 2018)

delicagirl said:


> i dont have a Hymer  -  but i wonder if your dad had installed a secret anti theft device ?  he was full of tricks like that.....



That was my first thought :lol-053: hence wondering about what that red kill-switch thing does. However, the glow plug light comes on, it turns over, the fuel pressure warning goes out and there's definitely fuel getting through. Very strange.


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## Deleted member 79039 (Nov 4, 2018)

martinmartin said:


> How about looking at the rotor arm in the distributor?



It's a diesel...


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## jeffmossy (Nov 4, 2018)

If there is smoke coming out of the exhaust then it is firing on the plugs , The picture looks like a petrol Talbot and if it is they are notorious for getting damp and also dislike too much choke , spray all the HT leads and undo the distributer also , give them a  good spray with WD40 , then leave your choke in push the accelerator down to the floor and let it turn over for about 10 seconds , if it tries to start pull the choke out about half way and that should then start . Good luck


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## colinm (Nov 4, 2018)

GilesO said:


> It's a diesel...




With a choke? Never ever seen a diesel with a choke.
p.s. Have you put diesel in it?


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## Deleted member 79039 (Nov 4, 2018)

colinmd said:


> With a choke? Never ever seen a diesel with a choke.
> p.s. Have you put diesel in it?



Well, it's funny you said that because when my Mum said, "don't forget to pull out the choke" and then I found a choke, I was confused myself! However, it's definitely a diesel and definitely has a choke! :S


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## RichardHelen262 (Nov 4, 2018)

On those old diesels they had a selonoid on the side of the diesel pump, going to it is one wire that becomes live when the ignition is on, so your farther could well have cut into this somewhere to make a cheap simple immobiliser, either check this is going live when the ignition is turned on or put a live wire directly to it or listen to it whilst someone else turns the ignition on you will here it click, or you can also unscrew it and take the plunger out as a temporary measure, it just means that you would have to stall it to turn it off.
PS leave the choke pushed in as


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## linkshouse (Nov 4, 2018)

I can't help with why its' not starting but my Hymer is diesel and has what looks like a choke. I truth I suspect it works more like a manual throttle and allows me to keep it on a high tick over until it has warmed up.

Thats all said mine is based on a Renault (it's actually an Eriba Jet), just thought this may be something similar.

Phill


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## Deleted member 79039 (Nov 4, 2018)

helen262 said:


> On those old diesels they had a selonoid on the side of the diesel pump, going to it is one wire that becomes live when the ignition is on, so your farther could well have cut into this somewhere to make a cheap simple immobiliser, either check this is going live when the ignition is turned on or put a live wire directly to it or listen to it whilst someone else turns the ignition on you will here it click, or you can also unscrew it and take the plunger out as a temporary measure, it just means that you would have to stall it to turn it off



Interesting. Here's the pump and it looks a little jury-rigged to me...


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## Deleted member 79039 (Nov 4, 2018)

linkshouse said:


> I can't help with why its' not starting but my Hymer is diesel and has what looks like a choke. I truth I suspect it works more like a manual throttle and allows me to keep it on a high tick over until it has warmed up.
> 
> Thats all said mine is based on a Renault (it's actually an Eriba Jet), just thought this may be something similar.
> 
> Phill



I just traced the "choke" cable and it does indeed just seem to be pre-loading the throttle. That solves that mystery at least!


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## st3v3 (Nov 4, 2018)

I would say he's routed the two blue wires to a secret switch. Put the black direct onto the solenoid 

Or, zooming in, is that blue just a link?


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## rugbyken (Nov 4, 2018)

if it’s a diesel what is the choke for? , the red switch is like one i have its a keyed isolator in one position unlocked you can remove the key the other it rotates into through 90 degrees is the on position normally but as you say your dad may have second guessed the thieves,


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## Minisorella (Nov 4, 2018)

I'm almost scared to put my head above the parapet on a technical  thread and apologies if this is a really daft suggestion... but could it  be some kind of immobiliser?  My van's got one - it's nothing I ever have to 'set', it's just there and, once the ignition's on, I have to press a button on a separate little remote to allow the engine to start.  The visual sign on mine is that the blue main beam light comes on with all the other lights when the ignition's switched on. Took Martin and I a while to work it out... we thought the battery was constantly draining somehow


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## seadogjon (Nov 4, 2018)

GilesO said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> Here it is, my first proper problem, and it's with my Father's Hymer. I need to get it started and unfortunately he didn't get time to tell me HOW.
> 
> ...



Hi gilles,  i seem to remember a post of your dads about having the glow plugs wired up seperate to the ignition.
maybe looking back through his posts if you can will give the answer.
good luck,,jon


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## trevskoda (Nov 4, 2018)

Give us a picture of engine,seems like confusion whether its petrol or diesel.
If diesel then a small squirt of easy start into the air intake will get it going,not to much now. 

If petrol then the dist cap and leads will require drying with a hair drier plus inside of distributator cap, one lead of at distributor to confirm a good blue spark,dont pull of at plug to do this as at 35 th volts your eyes will light up,and as others have said turn over with no choke and pedal down,then only slighty touch pedal a small amount and turn over ,if it starts either small jabs of the choke in and out or fast small pumps of the throttle,ps chokes dont work half in or out,either full in or full out as they have a spring bypass when you rev engine before you push it in.
Dont over crank a engine as you will bugger the starter,10 to 15 sec with a 5 min break between tries.


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## Deleted member 79039 (Nov 4, 2018)

trevskoda said:


> Give us a picture of engine,seems like confusion whether its petrol or diesel.
> If diesel then a small squirt of easy start into the air intake will get it going,not to much now.
> 
> If petrol then the dist cap and leads will require drying with a hair drier plus inside of distributator cap, one lead of at distributor to confirm a good blue spark,dont pull of at plug to do this as at 35 th volts your eyes will light up,and as others have said turn over with no choke and pedal down,then only slighty touch pedal a small amount and turn over ,if it starts either small jabs of the choke in and out or fast small pumps of the throttle,ps chokes dont work half in or out,either full in or full out as they have a spring bypass when you rev engine before you push it in.
> Dont over crank a engine as you will bugger the starter,10 to 15 sec with a 5 min break between tries.



Here's the engine. 100% certain a diesel. It's a Ducato engine. About 1991 I believe.


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## Deleted member 79039 (Nov 4, 2018)

st3v3 said:


> I would say he's routed the two blue wires to a secret switch. Put the black direct onto the solenoid
> 
> Or, zooming in, is that blue just a link?



I think it's just where he had to patch on a new bit of wire to make it work. I had my Mum turn it over and it does sound like the fuel pump is going.


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## trevskoda (Nov 4, 2018)

GilesO said:


> Here's the engine. 100% certain a diesel. It's a Ducato engine. About 1991 I believe.
> 
> View attachment 68323



Yes diesel so make sure the switch is set correct as it may be to cut the fuel of,as i said once thes is sorted a small squirt of easy start into inlet of air filter she will be away,good luck.


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## Deleted member 79039 (Nov 4, 2018)

I love you all...

SHE LIVES 

No easy start... but some Isopropyl Alcohol into the inlet and boom, first time.

Much, much love as it means I can take the old girl for a pootle now 

Many thanks to all of you for helping.

:cool1:


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## Minisorella (Nov 4, 2018)

Well done Giles... but you really shouldn't talk about your lovely Mum like that :wacko:


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## delicagirl (Nov 4, 2018)

David would be chuffed and maybe embarrassed at all the help offered here to keep his van going  !!!!


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## molly 2 (Nov 4, 2018)

GilesO said:


> It's a diesel...


 Think he was joking.


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## winks (Nov 4, 2018)

Spot on Giles.

When you get chance I'd let it cool down then check for voltage at the glow plug terminals. If its anything like our old Hymer the wiring for that circuit comes up from below the radiator and has been known to corrode. BTW what is that choke control all about?

Cheers

H


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## molly 2 (Nov 4, 2018)

Minisorella said:


> I'm almost scared to put my head above the parapet on a technical  thread and apologies if this is a really daft suggestion... but could it  be some kind of immobiliser?  My van's got one - it's nothing I ever have to 'set', it's just there and, once the ignition's on, I have to press a button on a separate little remote to allow the engine to start.  The visual sign on mine is that the blue main beam light comes on with all the other lights when the ignition's switched on. Took Martin and I a while to work it out... we thought the battery was constantly draining somehow


Good Post jenny  , but you are much better on mobile phones


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## Minisorella (Nov 4, 2018)

molly 2 said:


> Good Post jenny  , but you are much better on mobile phones



:lol-049: :lol-049: 

That's me firmly back in my place Bazz :heart:


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## molly 2 (Nov 4, 2018)

Minisorella said:


> :lol-049: :lol-049:
> 
> That's me firmly back in my place Bazz :heart:


oh no no disrespected intended .when is your next surgery .


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## wildebus (Nov 4, 2018)

Ref the "choke on a diesel" part of the discussion, My old VW T4 1.9TD had what was often referred to as a "choke" on the right hand side below the light switch. And when you pulled it out, it made the engine easier to start when it was cold - so I can see why owners of those T4s referred to it as a Choke.
It was technically a 'Cold Start' Pull.  How it worked/what it did I never bothered to find out as it just did what it was supposed to (so if it works, don't fix it! principle).  I would imagine other diesels of similar design and vintage would have similar features?


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## Wully (Nov 4, 2018)

The choke thing could be a strangler to actually cut engine off when running as some old diesels wouldend cut off when key was turned to off position maybe retro fitted. I know all the first diesels had them


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## Canalsman (Nov 4, 2018)

What you're referring to is a decompression valve which was often cable operated.

Operation of the valve opened the cylinders to the atmosphere thus removing compression and stopping the engine.


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## harrow (Nov 4, 2018)

Or what they used to be called on the old diesels,

a stopper

otherwise the only other way to stop the engine was to stall the engine with the gears.


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## n brown (Nov 4, 2018)

harrow said:


> Or what they used to be called on the old diesels,
> 
> a stopper
> 
> otherwise the only other way to stop the engine was to stall the engine with the gears.


 old bedfords sometimes went mental when the leather diaphragm got a hole , or the inline rack fell off the end of its rails, you could stop any old diesel by putting your hand over the air inlet


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## Minisorella (Nov 4, 2018)

molly 2 said:


> oh no no disrespected intended .when is your next surgery .


No you weren't disrespectful Bazz, it made me laugh... it's hilarious how I think I can help with stuff I know nothing about :raofl:

Haven't got a date for surgery yet but I've been called for an MRI and pre-op assessment this Thursday, so I don't think it'll be long at all. They don't usually do the pre-op more than a few weeks ahead as far as I know. I've got my fingers crossed it won't be before December because I'll be away in the van from Friday until the end of the month. Fingers crossed


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## molly 2 (Nov 4, 2018)

Minisorella said:


> No you weren't disrespectful Bazz, it made me laugh... it's hilarious how I think I can help with stuff I know nothing about :raofl:
> 
> Haven't got a date for surgery yet but I've been called for an MRI and pre-op assessment this Thursday, so I don't think it'll be long at all. They don't usually do the pre-op more than a few weeks ahead as far as I know. I've got my fingers crossed it won't be before December because I'll be away in the van from Friday until the end of the month. Fingers crossed


oh eck  didn't  know about your health problems .I was meaning you're mobile phone and tablet surgery . (for numptys). Hope to see soon  Bazz


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## Minisorella (Nov 4, 2018)

molly 2 said:


> oh eck  didn't  know about your health problems .I was meaning you're mobile phone and tablet surgery . (for numptys). Hope to see soon  Bazz


Oh that surgery, sorry Bazz!  If the blinds are up in the van, the surgery is open :raofl:

By the way, not health problems exactly, just my pesky back needs a bit more neuro-tweaking


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## trevskoda (Nov 4, 2018)

wildebus said:


> Ref the "choke on a diesel" part of the discussion, My old VW T4 1.9TD had what was often referred to as a "choke" on the right hand side below the light switch. And when you pulled it out, it made the engine easier to start when it was cold - so I can see why owners of those T4s referred to it as a Choke.
> It was technically a 'Cold Start' Pull.  How it worked/what it did I never bothered to find out as it just did what it was supposed to (so if it works, don't fix it! principle).  I would imagine other diesels of similar design and vintage would have similar features?



It made the pump deliver more fuel,still used on some mobile road compressors,little plunger on pump.
Best thing you can do for a derv engine is make it work hard with a good blast down m/way,never let them idle or run slow on short trips as it cokes the injectors up,glad you got her to go,iv used spray carb cleaner from the pound shops which is softer than easy start,cheers.


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## Burtie (Nov 4, 2018)

GilesO said:


> That was my first thought :lol-053: hence wondering about what that red kill-switch thing does. However, the glow plug light comes on, it turns over, the fuel pressure warning goes out and there's definitely fuel getting through. Very strange.



The red kill switch is just for the habitation part of the motorhome it turn the 12volt on and off the choke as you say is just an engine retarder to turn up the Revvs whilst on tick over if the battery has been left to drain I would say even with jump leads there is not enough power to fire it up straight away you may require a decent battery fully charged and wait untill the yellow coil light goes off before cranking the engine


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## Herman (Nov 4, 2018)

Burtie said:


> The red kill switch is just for the habitation part of the motorhome it turn the 12volt on and off the choke as you say is just an engine retarder to turn up the Revvs whilst on tick over if the battery has been left to drain I would say even with jump leads there is not enough power to fire it up straight away you may require a decent battery fully charged and wait untill the yellow coil light goes off before cranking the engine


,

Reading all the way through this post nobody mentioned allowing the glow plugs to warm up untill this post, but also if the battery is a bit low the engine will not crank fast enough, So with jump leads on (2nd engine running at a fast tick over) turn the ignition on and wait for the curly wire symbol to go out before cranking.

Easystart  and other starting aids detonate in the combustion chamber booting the engine into life and can break piston rings.


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## walpeter (Nov 5, 2018)

I suddenly had starting problems in Northern Spain in May this year. Mine's a 1991 Fiat Hymer and the damn thing just would not start although it had always started previously. I kept trying with no luck. An Aussie mechanic helped me out with a spray of brake cleaner into the air intake - it fired no problem. It didn't happen again till I got home so I checked all the glow plugs and discovered only 2 were functioning! Now replaced.


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## Fazerloz (Nov 5, 2018)

One thing I don't think has been said about using start assist sprays is that with Diesels the spray should be sprayed into the intake with the engine turning Not stationary. Petrol engines should be sprayed into the intake with the engine stationary and then try to start the engine.
I am not going into the rights or wrong of using easy start. But it can be a good diagnostic tool if you know what your looking for. 
Plenty of trucks and heavy plant use ether starting systems. I wish it had been on the heavy plant I was having to start at 6am on the top of the pit stack in the middle of winter. 

As for tales of start spray breaking rings how do we know its the spray that's broken the ring and not that the rings have broken and then the spray used to get the engine running. Then when the engine is finally pulled and broken rings found the spray is blamed for breaking the rings.


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## trevskoda (Nov 5, 2018)

Fazerloz said:


> One thing I don't think has been said about using start assist sprays is that with Diesels the spray should be sprayed into the intake with the engine turning Not stationary. Petrol engines should be sprayed into the intake with the engine stationary and then try to start the engine.
> I am not going into the rights or wrong of using easy start. But it can be a good diagnostic tool if you know what your looking for.
> Plenty of trucks and heavy plant use ether starting systems. I wish it had been on the heavy plant I was having to start at 6am on the top of the pit stack in the middle of winter.
> 
> As for tales of start spray breaking rings how do we know its the spray that's broken the ring and not that the rings have broken and then the spray used to get the engine running. Then when the engine is finally pulled and broken rings found the spray is blamed for breaking the rings.



I norm use carb spray as it is softer than e/start,when folk bring a dead outboard in as you say a quick squirt lets me know whether its a blocked jet in carb or no spark,a handy tool for the work shop but not to be used all the time where there is a fault,old engines relaying on it are in fact nackered though handy for a emergency and can also be used to blow a tubeless tyre onto a tricky rim with the aid of a ciggy lighter which is one of my old tricks.:scared:


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## ricc (Nov 5, 2018)

on a lot of old diesels the "choke" or cold start actually alters the injection timing.

regarding easystart ive had a zetor crystal tractor since the early eighties .... its never done a cold start without a whiff of easystart into the intake manifold.... once its started once itll start allday without..     a couple of cans of easystart a year is cheaper than an engine rebuild.

nextdoor had a similar one for years that allways started perfectly however frosty the morning.


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## trevskoda (Nov 5, 2018)

ricc said:


> on a lot of old diesels the "choke" or cold start actually alters the injection timing.
> 
> regarding easystart ive had a zetor crystal tractor since the early eighties .... its never done a cold start without a whiff of easystart into the intake manifold.... once its started once itll start allday without..     a couple of cans of easystart a year is cheaper than an engine rebuild.
> 
> nextdoor had a similar one for years that allways started perfectly however frosty the morning.



They get used to it like smoking giggys:lol-053:


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## Herman (Nov 5, 2018)

Fazerloz said:


> One thing I don't think has been said about using start assist sprays is that with Diesels the spray should be sprayed into the intake with the engine turning Not stationary. Petrol engines should be sprayed into the intake with the engine stationary and then try to start the engine.
> I am not going into the rights or wrong of using easy start. But it can be a good diagnostic tool if you know what your looking for.
> Plenty of trucks and heavy plant use ether starting systems. I wish it had been on the heavy plant I was having to start at 6am on the top of the pit stack in the middle of winter.
> 
> As for tales of start spray breaking rings how do we know its the spray that's broken the ring and not that the rings have broken and then the spray used to get the engine running. Then when the engine is finally pulled and broken rings found the spray is blamed for breaking the rings.



I know it breaks rings because it did it to a my works van, As i drove into the works one day the engine cut just as I was passing the garage that was contracted out but he still maintained all the fleet, We'll sort that out he said as I took my paperwork into the office, 10 minutes later i walked out to find him over the engine squirting easy start into it whist his apprentice cranked it over, I went ballistic, i hate that stuff. Sacked them off the job and looked it over myself, Fuel solenoid fuse had blow. Anyway, 1000 miles later the engine was stripped after it developed a problem and guess what the problem was, now that was not caused by the fuse blowing in the first place.


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## Fazerloz (Nov 5, 2018)

Herman said:


> I know it breaks rings because it did it to a my works van, As i drove into the works one day the engine cut just as I was passing the garage that was contracted out but he still maintained all the fleet, We'll sort that out he said as I took my paperwork into the office, 10 minutes later i walked out to find him over the engine squirting easy start into it whist his apprentice cranked it over, I went ballistic, i hate that stuff. Sacked them off the job and looked it over myself, Fuel solenoid fuse had blow. Anyway, 1000 miles later the engine was stripped after it developed a problem and guess what the problem was, now that was not caused by the fuse blowing in the first place.



1000mls  later the engine was stripped. No way can you say for a fact the easy start caused the rings to break.


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## Fazerloz (Nov 5, 2018)

hairydog said:


> Well, I've seen Ezy Start blow a hole in a piston. That certainly wasn't there before.
> Whether or not it breaks rings, the potential is certainly there. Far better to fix the starting problem.



How did you see that. A glass head. Did you do a compression test  before using the easy start. As you say yourself there is usually a problem otherwise the easy start wouldn't be used.


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## trevskoda (Nov 5, 2018)

hairydog said:


> It is very easy to identify a hoped piston without taking the head off, but of course the head had to come off to fix it.
> There was. Nothing wrong with the engine until a moron sprayed Ezy Start in. He hadn't given the heaters time to work.



People over do it which will cause probs,mainly when engines require it either something wrong or its knackered and going down hill fast.
an old lazy engine which has been standing a small squirt will help start,last week i used carb spray to get a old dahatsu jeep i my garden going which has been standing for years,clutch though stuck or should i say the release bearing slider is firm on the slide tube and i can engage gear but pedal wont cum up.:hammer:


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## Fazerloz (Nov 5, 2018)

hairydog said:


> It is very easy to identify a hoped piston without taking the head off, but of course the head had to come off to fix it.
> There was. Nothing wrong with the engine until a moron sprayed Ezy Start in. He hadn't given the heaters time to work.



You still haven't said how you know for a fact there was nothing wrong with the engine before the use of the I assume you mean easy start. Ezy start is a product I have never come across.
I have literally seen hundreds of holed pistons from D9h Caterpillars to 25cc minibikes. So no. not convinced the odd use of a start spray is the actual cause of a piston failure, which is usually caused by more long term problems [weak mix etc] or mechanical failures. [valve damage etc] 

Imagine the litigation if a product  sold specifically to start engines constantly broke them, it would have been withdrawn years ago..


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## ricc (Nov 6, 2018)

we had a 1969  david brown tractor, with its genuine makers instruction book ,   there were two cold start aids,  first was a wingnut on the bottom of the injector pump, screw it in to alter the injection timing for a normal cold start .   two was an inch diameter screw in plug in the inake manifold, which had an absorbent spongy thing on the inside , book said dip it in ether for a sub zero cold start....we never did cos spray can of easystart was easily obtainable and easier to use. 

david brown sold large quantities of those engines from the 50's right through to the 80s  i even saw one on an airfield tug in a museum on malta.

use too much easystart and you get a hell of a rattle as the engine fires up...i guess from pre ignition.   which is why i say whiff rather than squirt


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## eddyt (Nov 6, 2018)

ricc said:


> we had a 1969  david brown tractor, with its genuine makers instruction book ,   there were two cold start aids,  first was a wingnut on the bottom of the injector pump, screw it in to alter the injection timing for a normal cold start .   two was an inch diameter screw in plug in the inake manifold, which had an absorbent spongy thing on the inside , book said dip it in ether for a sub zero cold start....we never did cos spray can of easystart was easily obtainable and easier to use.
> 
> david brown sold large quantities of those engines from the 50's right through to the 80s  i even saw one on an airfield tug in a museum on malta.
> 
> use too much easystart and you get a hell of a rattle as the engine fires up...i guess from pre ignition.   which is why i say whiff rather than squirt



hi
   ive got a 1966 david brown  but i never had a manual. but with a very good battery it turns over
  for a while putting smoke out the exhaust then fires. even after standing 2 years outside next
  to the beach. but it must be a very powerfull battery.


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## Wully (Nov 6, 2018)

Once seen an AA guy use a can of lynx deodorant to start a transit that had ran out of fuel he said hairspray works even better so anything flammable from an aerosol can.


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## Fazerloz (Nov 6, 2018)

hairydog said:


> I know there was nothing wrong with the bloody engine because I drove the vehicle. Then the pillock tried to start it the next morning without giving the glow plugs time. When it didn't start, he put loads of Ezy Start (and yes, that was what it was called at the time) in and buggered the engine. Yes, it started, running on three cylinders.
> It does damage engines. It should only be used as a last resort.



If you say so, then I guess it must be so.!
What do I know.?
 Can't imagine how after all these years its still on the market though.


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## Fazerloz (Nov 6, 2018)

Looser cruiser said:


> Once seen an AA guy use a can of lynx deodorant to start a transit that had ran out of fuel he said hairspray works even better so anything flammable from an aerosol can.



What the AA used a  spray. I don't believe it. How dare they.


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## Herman (Nov 6, 2018)

Fazerloz said:


> If you say so, then I guess it must be so.!
> What do I know.?
> Can't imagine how after all these years its still on the market though.



Have you got shares in Easy start.


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## Fazerloz (Nov 6, 2018)

Herman said:


> Have you got shares in Easy start.



No but I know a product that works, especially when used as instructed.


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## trevskoda (Nov 6, 2018)

Carb spray works without the knock as its not just as volitile ,costs a £1 in a blue tin,also good with a lighter for shooting down WASPS.:scared:


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## RoadTrek Boy (Nov 7, 2018)

What have you got against wasps Trev... How would you like some big burly creature try to incinerate you as you went about your daily life....


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## Haaamster (Nov 7, 2018)

GilesO said:


> Here's the engine. 100% certain a diesel. It's a Ducato engine. About 1991 I believe.
> 
> View attachment 68323



Same as my engine, the choke is for cold starting in the winter, never need to use it any other time. If you use it in mild weather it's harder to start.


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## ricc (Nov 8, 2018)

trevskoda said:


> Carb spray works without the knock as its not just as volitile ,costs a £1 in a blue tin,also good with a lighter for shooting down WASPS.:scared:



a squirt of wd40 will knock a wasp down to the floor  without setting fire to the workshop.


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## runnach (Nov 8, 2018)

on more modern vehicles , persistent bad starting or stalling under load in first gear suggests a faulty air sensor

Main dealer prices are eye watering in excess of £300 re conditioned ones can be bought for £30- 40 and are easy to fit for the home mechanic

£40 typically is the cost of half an hours labour with the big boys so sometimes worth a speculative punt 

Channa


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## RodYork (Dec 24, 2018)

With Ducato Diesel engines produced around this time the glow plug is not a conventional set up. 
Instead on "cold start- low temperature days"- a shot of diesel is squirted into the engine to aid combustion/start.  You will see on the dash board that the glow plug light only comes on in cold conditions.


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## sparrks (Dec 24, 2018)

ricc said:


> a squirt of wd40 will knock a wasp down to the floor  without setting fire to the workshop.


Rather less fun though.


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## molly 2 (Dec 24, 2018)

A trick I use to start awkward diesel engines is to give it a double dose of glow plug heat before hitting the starter


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## trevskoda (Dec 24, 2018)

molly 2 said:


> A trick I use to start awkward diesel engines is to give it a double dose of glow plug heat before hitting the starter



100% correct,i have done this many a time,esp on older engines with many miles on clock.
I have also used a blow lamp at the inlet or heated the inlet manifold or intake with a hot air gun.


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## molly 2 (Dec 25, 2018)

trevskoda said:


> 100% correct,i have done this many a time,esp on older engines with many miles on clock.
> I have also used a blow lamp at the inlet or heated the inlet manifold or intake with a hot air gun.


Yes but have you ever done diesel soaked rag  trick  ,or are you too young .?


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## chas142 (Jan 3, 2019)

GilesO said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> Here it is, my first proper problem, and it's with my Father's Hymer. I need to get it started and unfortunately he didn't get time to tell me HOW.
> 
> ...



I had a 91 Hymer with the same set up. You have got it going now but you should check out the glow plugs. The red wire goes to the glow plugs, there is a metal strip that links the glow plug, you should remove that and check to make sure all draw about the same power, if no power draw on a glow plug replace it. As in post 40, they can go down, mine also had a problem starting once in the winter, I think I replaced all 4 plugs as I only had 1 or 2 working. Started fine before it got really cold. I only used the choke once in about 6 years. You have got all the other answers here with lots of other advise, I used easy start to get mine going once as we were wild camping and about to return home, you need to spray that or whatever spray you have directly  into the metal airintake manifold, it didn't work for me spraying it into the air filter intake. I think I got her to crank it and I gave it a very small squirt.

A can of spray was kept for emergencies, I also used it once when the car wouldn't start, that turned out to be a leak back on just one injector, newer system than your MH. Citroen garage diagnosed that one but I did the repair, it cost me half the amount that the garage wanted to replace just the one injector and retest to see if any more needed. I removed all 4 injectors and got them all bench tested, just one was down, so that one reconditioned and all refitted, all then fine.


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## GreggBear (Jan 3, 2019)

GilesO said:


> It's a diesel...



In your original post you referred to choke position. If it's diesel it hasn't got a choke. The red switch in your pic looks like a battery isolater so if you have any power at all i think that should be ok.


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## chas142 (Jan 9, 2019)

hairydog said:


> Generally, if there is a problem with one or more of the glow plugs, the glow plug light will come on when the engine is running. It's not infallible, but it's a strong hint of a glow plug problem.




I don't think it did that on mine, not really sure now, it was years ago and a very basic system.


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## trevskoda (Jan 9, 2019)

My iveco will start without glow plug use,i think they are direct inj rather than recaro cylinder heads thanks to old rudolf.


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## fifthwheel (Jan 9, 2019)

molly 2 said:


> Yes but have you ever done diesel soaked rag  trick  ,or are you too young .?



Lighted newspaper is better than a rag, less chance of the engine sucking in the rag and getting under the valves. john.


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