# Is this battery layout correct?



## mossypossy (Oct 16, 2017)

This is how my 3 battery setup looks at the moment.







Just ordered three new 130ah batteries (and saved £47 using my discount from this site)
Is this the most efficient way to connect them all up in parallel?


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## wildebus (Oct 16, 2017)

Simple Answer is NO, sorry.

Battery to Battery cable layout is fine, but then what you need to do is chose the +ve of one battery as the feed, the -ve of the opposite battery (i.e. other side of the middle battery) as the ground, and then treat those two points as the ONLY +ve and -ve connections to any device putting power in or pulling power out

The fuse shown implies the left battery is some distance from the other two - is that correct?


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## mossypossy (Oct 16, 2017)

Left hand battery under drivers seat. Other two are a few feet away under bench.


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## wildebus (Oct 16, 2017)

This is the external (to battery bank) you need...



internal is kinda fine as it is. needs to be decent gauge cable (16mm or even 25mm ideally)

Sorry - the inverter ground still shows that going to RH Battery - it should be LH Battery


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## colinm (Oct 16, 2017)

wildebus said:


> Simple Answer is NO, sorry.
> 
> Battery to Battery cable layout is fine, but then what you need to do is chose the +ve of one battery as the feed, the -ve of the opposite battery (i.e. other side of the middle battery) as the ground, and then treat those two points as the ONLY +ve and -ve connections to any device putting power in or pulling power out
> 
> The fuse shown implies the left battery is some distance from the other two - is that correct?



I think this is the way normally advised, although I think the way post is written could be open to misinterpretation.
I'm never good at explaining, but here goes, three batteries all linked together as you have them, + goes to one end of battery bank, - goes to opposite end of battery bank.
p.s. the new line drawing put up after I posted explains it better.


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## wildebus (Oct 16, 2017)

Corrected diagram


You don't have to run all the grounds back to the battery bank if not convienient, but can use the vehicle ground.  The only connection from the battery bank to the vehicle ground must be from the LH Battery (or if  +ve from LH battery, the ground is via RH Battery - you get the idea ... opposites  )


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## mossypossy (Oct 16, 2017)

Thanks.
I thought it was a bit wrong. Like that when I got it guv.

Present layout will mean the batteries are delivering differing amps and not working efficiently as a unit?


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## wildebus (Oct 16, 2017)

mossypossy said:


> Thanks.
> I thought it was a bit wrong. Like that when I got it guv.
> 
> Present layout will mean the batteries are delivering differing amps and not working efficiently as a unit?


pretty much.
the LH battery will be getting the majority of the charge and the RH will be suffering the worst from the unbalanced connection with the inverter, so it is actually, IMO, worse then the typical unbalanced 3-battery setup.
your new batteries will be really good once cabled right from the start :dance:

It is important to get the batteries right to really get the best life and best power from them.
This is the 4 battery array I am installing in my conversion:


IMG_20171001_162501 by David, on Flickr
+ve feed is from top battery; -ve feed is from bottom battery; every battery has an identical total length cable run from -ve to +ve feed points.


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## trevskoda (Oct 16, 2017)

Your sys will work fine,but this is the way the dia should be done to balance.


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## wildebus (Oct 16, 2017)

Must say I don't agree with that, Trev.


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## sparrks (Oct 16, 2017)

This gives a good explanation of the connections and as to the efficiency or not. of connecting it up in the OP diagram


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## trevskoda (Oct 16, 2017)

wildebus said:


> Must say I don't agree with that, Trev.



Well i think it is a better ballance as take offs are spread across and power in center is eq length of wires,but they all will work 100% as i have found it dont make any dif to be honest.


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## trevskoda (Oct 16, 2017)

sparrks said:


> This gives a good explanation of the connections and as to the efficiency or not. of connecting it up in the OP diagram



Thanks as par way i did my dia.


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## wildebus (Oct 16, 2017)

trevskoda said:


> Thanks as par way i did my dia.


TBH, if you are going by the advice in that article - which is very good - then this point in the article is of significant relevance ...
"The chargers should always be connected to the same points as the loads. Without exception"


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## trevskoda (Oct 16, 2017)

wildebus said:


> TBH, if you are going by the advice in that article - which is very good - then this point in the article is of significant relevance ...
> "The chargers should always be connected to the same points as the loads. Without exception"



Yes that would be correct but as i drew it the centre tap will ballance out ok ,its realy only the drawing current which may be a lot higher will matter.
Anyway its only my take,folk can and will do there own thing,it will work anyway.


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## Admin (Oct 16, 2017)

Here is how I would wire it:


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## wildebus (Oct 16, 2017)

Admin said:


> Here is how I would wire it:
> 
> View attachment 58573


I am not 100% agreement on the use of the fuses within the bank personally (depending on batteries location) but the takesoff - agreed for sure

The reason I say that about the fuses that if one blows to an individual battery, you would never ever know unless you visually checked.  the Bank would be low on power in and out and get unbalanced, so a faulty fuse (they do occur) could muck up your battery bank for no genuine reason and it could be months and months before you knew.


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## wildebus (Oct 16, 2017)

Been having thoughts about this and if you were to fit a fuse to each battery as Phil as shown, then it should not be that tricky to wire up a panel with an LED tell-tale for each battery to indicate if a fuse had blown (just like the fuseboxes with an LED indicator that lights up when a fuse is blown)
That would be nice and allow full inter-battery protection against an internal battery fault as Phil has got without any long-term compromising of the battery bank.


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## ashbyspannerman (Oct 16, 2017)

I think you're overdoing it slightly with the fuses there Phil, but it can't hurt! The initial pic showing a fuse between one battery and the other two situated a few feet away is wrong, it is vitally imortant to have that cable fused at both ends, as near to the batteries as possible.


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## Admin (Oct 16, 2017)

wildebus said:


> I am not 100% agreement on the use of the fuses within the bank personally (depending on batteries location) but the takesoff - agreed for sure
> 
> The reason I say that about the fuses that if one blows to an individual battery, you would never ever know unless you visually checked.  the Bank would be low on power in and out and get unbalanced, so a faulty fuse (they do occur) could muck up your battery bank for no genuine reason and it could be months and months before you knew.



I always connect batteries together in a bank with thick cable (25mm csa +) I would then put in large fuses 100 amp plus to protect against internal battery fault, but they would be unlikely to be blown by a circuit fault in the vehicles electrics as the fuses from the main positive terminal to those circuits are smaller and would blow first. 

I would also look at the peak watts output of the inverter (not the nominal watts) and make sure that the 3 battery fuses can meet that demand between them. My inverter is 3000 watts but can peak at 6000 watts, so although the demand should be 250 amps it could be 500 amps for a short period. My main positive terminal is fused at 500 amps and my batteries are fused at 200 amps each. The batteries are connected with 70mm cable and this continues to the main fuse and on to the inverter. My shunt is also rated at 500 amps.


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## wildebus (Oct 16, 2017)

I like it. 
I have not fused batteries like that, but I can see a definate value to do so, so given me some food for thought for my 4-unit bank.

FWIW this is my setup (diagram just showing the bank and split charge part - all external devices route though the two terminal junctions)


I have a pair of Inverters with a max peak of 2600W (2000W + 600W) but unlikely to ever draw near that. I have a master fuse of 150A into the bank and never want to draw close to that.  
I am now actually contemplating adding inter-battery fuses.  Maybe this is something could discuss at the Wheel as it is an interesting subject?


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## mossypossy (Oct 16, 2017)

Admin said:


> Here is how I would wire it:
> 
> View attachment 58573



Not being an electrician, what does the main positive and negative connection look like. It is away from the battery terminal. Like a junction box?


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## wildebus (Oct 16, 2017)

mossypossy said:


> Not being an electrician, what does the main positive and negative connection look like. It is away from the battery terminal. Like a junction box?



I am using a pair of these ...
POSITIVE RED SINGLE POWER DISTRIBUTION POST BUSBAR BUS BAR 150A RATED  | eBay
for these you use 8mm dia ring terminals and you stack the connectors.  Gives good electrical continuity.


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## maingate (Oct 17, 2017)

Admin said:


> I always connect batteries together in a bank with thick cable (25mm csa +) I would then put in large fuses 100 amp plus to protect against internal battery fault, but they would be unlikely to be blown by a circuit fault in the vehicles electrics as the fuses from the main positive terminal to those circuits are smaller and would blow first.
> 
> I would also look at the peak watts output of the inverter (not the nominal watts) and make sure that the 3 battery fuses can meet that demand between them. My inverter is 3000 watts but can peak at 6000 watts, so although the demand should be 250 amps it could be 500 amps for a short period. My main positive terminal is fused at 500 amps and my batteries are fused at 200 amps each. The batteries are connected with 70mm cable and this continues to the main fuse and on to the inverter. My shunt is also rated at 500 amps.



I take a different view Phil but there again I have bought motorhomes (not selfbuilt) and I work with what I have got. I like a decent size wiring connection with a 20 Amp fuse fitted. If a battery (of a pair) went down, the fuse would blow before the vehicle Hab wiring seriously overheated and became dangerous or the onboard charger became damaged by working flat out for extended periods. A replacement Reich charger for my van is around £800 to replace. 

I have no interest in large Inverters which would require heavier wiring, the same applies to aftermarket rapid charging systems. There again, being able to use a motorhome for extended periods in Winter comes at a price.


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## Admin (Oct 17, 2017)

mossypossy said:


> Not being an electrician, what does the main positive and negative connection look like. It is away from the battery terminal. Like a junction box?



Rather than using the battery terminals as the main connection points, the batteries feed to a connection that all accessories connect to. You can use the connections that wildebus has linked to. In my van, I use the shunt as the main negative connection point and the main fuse as the positive connection point. This reason that I added them to the picture was to show that if all the batteries are fused then you cannot connect accessories directly to the battery terminals.


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## Admin (Oct 17, 2017)

maingate said:


> I take a different view Phil but there again I have bought motorhomes (not selfbuilt) and I work with what I have got. I like a decent size wiring connection with a 20 Amp fuse fitted. If a battery (of a pair) went down, the fuse would blow before the vehicle Hab wiring seriously overheated and became dangerous or the onboard charger became damaged by working flat out for extended periods. A replacement Reich charger for my van is around £800 to replace.
> 
> I have no interest in large Inverters which would require heavier wiring, the same applies to aftermarket rapid charging systems. There again, being able to use a motorhome for extended periods in Winter comes at a price.



So you have a fuse in the cable linking your batteries together?


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## maingate (Oct 17, 2017)

Admin said:


> So you have a fuse in the cable linking your batteries together?



That's correct Phil. When I bought the van (used) I asked for a second Hab battery to be fitted. This was done and an official Autotrail additional battery wiring kit was used. I asked the Dealer to alter this as the wiring was woefully thin and the inline fuse was 30 Amps. The dealership fitted more substantial wiring and I changed the fuse to 20 Amp.

I have had schematic drawings for my Burstner vans which showed the fuses that were fitted matched the maximum rating for each circuit. I reduced the fuse rating slightly to protect each circuit to ensure if any thing failed, the fuse would blow first. I thought this especially important on the lighting circuits especially after fitting LED lights (which use substantially less power). I regard the wiring size used looks insubstantial, especially on long runs of wire in big vans. This is just my opinion and I have never had a fuse blow because it was too low a value.


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## Admin (Oct 17, 2017)

maingate said:


> That's correct Phil. When I bought the van (used) I asked for a second Hab battery to be fitted. This was done and an official Autotrail additional battery wiring kit was used. I asked the Dealer to alter this as the wiring was woefully thin and the inline fuse was 30 Amps. The dealership fitted more substantial wiring and I changed the fuse to 20 Amp.



That would protect against a battery fault, but would not allow for high battery demand. I know that you don't use high demand accessories. 

The OP has an inverter and three batteries, so the safest design is the one that I have posted.


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## wildebus (Oct 17, 2017)

Admin said:


> I always connect batteries together in a bank with thick cable (25mm csa +) I would then put in large fuses 100 amp plus to protect against internal battery fault, but they would be unlikely to be blown by a circuit fault in the vehicles electrics as the fuses from the main positive terminal to those circuits are smaller and would blow first.
> .......



Hey Phil,
I had a slight nagging in my head about how one battery fail could affect the rest in the bank and I think your words have convinced me to add fuses within the bank 
So my layout is now this:

Adding fuses inbetween the short cables - both -ve and +ve.

It may appear from a casual look at the diagram that I have just duplicated a fuse between the same pair of batteries, but that is not actually the case. working from top down, batteries 1 or 3 would get isolated if the "+ve fuse" blows on their respective cables, and batteries 2 or 4 would get isolated if the "-ve fuse" blows on their respective cables, so fully covered there now.  Shown 60A fuse.  Not fully calculated if that is the best rating or not.  Probably 100A might be the way to go as Phil has used, as an actual battery fault would likely take out just about any fuse? Using 25mm cable for all interlinks, so 100A would not compromise that at all.

Still think a way to monitor fuse status would be a good idea.  
One thought off the top of my head is use a 2V-ish LED across the fuse holder.  It would typically light up when the batteries where being charged (so at say 14.xV and the battery with the blown fuse was at 12.xV). but only good for +ve fuse fails and not foolproof.  Maybe worrying about fuse faults too much?  Possibly the info from the BMV-700 and the SOC info would be a telltale as would be setup for one size of battery bank and it suddenly has shrunk?


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## mossypossy (Oct 17, 2017)

*My Solution*

Decided to ditch the under driver seat location for the battery.
I can fit three side by side under the bench.
All wired up. Just waiting for the battery delivery man.

Is there a specific way I should attach the terminals? ie negatives first and distribution terminals last?


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## wildebus (Oct 17, 2017)

Negative last is what I do. Also leave fuse holders empty until all wiring done and then populate them.


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## trevskoda (Oct 17, 2017)

hairydog said:


> Just as with jump leads, connect* the earth side last. With modern vehicles, that's negative last.
> *And of course, disconnect it first. The idea is that you are not connecting a 'hot' wire that the spanner could short to earth.



A red spanner at night is a campervaners delight.:scared::lol-053:


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## mossypossy (Oct 18, 2017)

*Still waiting...*

This overnight delivery malarkey.
Should have arrived yesterday. No update on the online tracker.
After badgering the delivery company:

"I have just spoken to the driver on this route and your consignment will be  delivered today between 3 - 6pm one of his tyres blew up yesterday"

No apology. Bet if I check the tyres on his van they are all old and dirty.


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## wildebus (Oct 18, 2017)

mossypossy said:


> This overnight delivery malarkey.
> Should have arrived yesterday. No update on the online tracker.
> After badgering the delivery company:
> 
> ...



If there was one thing I could say against Alpha, it would be their choice of Courier (I've have a few late deliveries) but very few courier companies will carry batteries, so hobsons choice probably.

PS.  ref earlier comments about "red spanners" etc. I usually use a socket and ratchet driver to tighten up the fittings and I have insualting tape wrapped around the body of the handle so if you do accidently make a circuit on moving the handle the tape stops it actually happening (very handy when working on underseat batteries within metal bases!)


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## Deleted member 5816 (Oct 18, 2017)

I am fortunate that from my days with the Elecricity Board I have a set of 11000v insulated tools spinners included. Whilst working there on of the electricians vans had a flat battery he could not wait for our in house mechanic and borrowed his battery charger he dropped the bonnet but the clip on the positive terminal was pointing upwards, before his eyes the crocodile clip  burnt through the bonnet and left a blackened paint ring a out a foot across with a inch hole in the centre, we had to have an in house driving permit the mechanic withdrew the Electricians  driving permit for 3 years.

Alf




hairydog said:


> Just as with jump leads, connect* the earth side last. With modern vehicles, that's negative last.
> *And of course, disconnect it first. The idea is that you are not connecting a 'hot' wire that the spanner could short to earth.


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## trevskoda (Oct 18, 2017)

Alf said:


> I am fortunate that from my days with the Elecricity Board I have a set of 11000v insulated tools spinners included. Whilst working there on of the electricians vans had a flat battery he could not wait for our in house mechanic and borrowed his battery charger he dropped the bonnet but the clip on the positive terminal was pointing upwards, before his eyes the crocodile clip  burnt through the bonnet and left a blackened paint ring a out a foot across with a inch hole in the centre, we had to have an in house driving permit the mechanic withdrew the Electricians  driving permit for 3 years.
> 
> Alf



A bit of a SHORT sited mishap for the sparky.


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## trevskoda (Oct 18, 2017)

Yes alf i was going to float charge battery on new car but,reading the label on cover it said not to charge or bost start as electrics may be damaged ,just about to connect charger after lifting of pos clamp,then brain kicked in as it is to close to hood when semi shut so i just removed to bench charge,better safe than sorry.


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## mossypossy (Oct 18, 2017)

Another day and no delivery.
Says service exception on the tracker website.

Driving up to the Lakes on Sunday.


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## trevskoda (Oct 18, 2017)

wildebus said:


> I am using a pair of these ...
> POSITIVE RED SINGLE POWER DISTRIBUTION POST BUSBAR BUS BAR 150A RATED  | eBay
> for these you use 8mm dia ring terminals and you stack the connectors.  Gives good electrical continuity.



I always use these covered ones in boats as nothing can short out against them.


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## mossypossy (Oct 19, 2017)

*All Done*

Thanks to all who advised.
All up and running and charging up.


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## harrow (Oct 19, 2017)

trevskoda said:


> Yes alf i was going to float charge battery on new car but,reading the label on cover it said not to charge or bost start as electrics may be damaged ,just about to connect charger after lifting of pos clamp,then brain kicked in as it is to close to hood when semi shut so i just removed to bench charge,better safe than sorry.



Yes some cars don't like being jump started, some destroy their ECU (cars computer) after a spark and a voltage spike at great expense.

As far as using a battery charger, then a smart, intelligent  charger (like a ctek) would be a fairly safe bet.

I think the manufacturers are covering themselves in case you use something like a starter-charger which might try and put 20 or 40 volts into the battery to boost charge it.

I made my own starter-charger, boost box, but I take great care and monitor the voltages.


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## mossypossy (Oct 19, 2017)

*Final Question*

What is the ideal cable/wire gauge to connect the THREE batteries together. Batteries are 130amp.
25mm enough or should I go fatter?


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## Fazerloz (Oct 19, 2017)

I found it cheaper to buy jump leads and cut the ends off than to just buy the heavy duty wire.


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## mossypossy (Oct 19, 2017)

Fazerloz said:


> I found it cheaper to buy jump leads and cut the ends off than to just buy the heavy duty wire.


 That is what I have done temporarily as I had a spare set.


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## Canalsman (Oct 19, 2017)

Fazerloz said:


> I found it cheaper to buy jump leads and cut the ends off than to just buy the heavy duty wire.



Beware ...

Jump leads often appear 'meaty' but the conductive core is relatively small gauge wire and may not be copper.

Remember they are made to be cheap and are only used for a short time. On the few occasions I have used them they become pretty hot - this indicates that their internal resistance is higher than desirable to provide a link between high capacity batteries.


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## mossypossy (Oct 19, 2017)

I will get some beefy stuff before I take it out!


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## Canalsman (Oct 19, 2017)

Consider starter motor cabling ...

When I last did this I found the cheapest place to get suitable cabling was ebay.


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## wildebus (Oct 19, 2017)

I used this for the array I have just installed:
Welding Cable / Battery Earth 230 Amp 25 mm Black Flexible Per Meter Mig Tig Arc Welder

Good quality stuff, easy to work with. Don't need to bother getting Black Cable AND Red Cable - just mark the +ve ones accordingly to show which is which for safe installing and maintenance.


IMG_20171018_165744 by David, on Flickr


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## Deleted member 5816 (Oct 19, 2017)

A lot of these cheap jump leads are aluminium with a sort of copper coating may be OK for the short starting load.

Alf




POI Admin said:


> Beware ...
> 
> Jump leads often appear 'meaty' but the conductive core is relatively small gauge wire and may not be copper.
> 
> Remember they are made to be cheap and are only used for a short time. On the few occasions I have used them they become pretty hot - this indicates that their internal resistance is higher than desirable to provide a link between high capacity batteries.


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## Fazerloz (Oct 19, 2017)

I did not say I bought cheap jump leads only that I found it cheaper to buy jump leads and cut the ends off. Cheap jump leads are not worth buying.


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## mossypossy (Oct 19, 2017)

Think my jump leads were cheap.


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## Admin (Oct 19, 2017)

wildebus said:


> I used this for the array I have just installed:
> Welding Cable / Battery Earth 230 Amp 25 mm Black Flexible Per Meter Mig Tig Arc Welder
> 
> Good quality stuff, easy to work with. Don't need to bother getting Black Cable AND Red Cable - just mark the +ve ones accordingly to show which is which for safe installing and maintenance.
> ...




I also use welding cables sourced via Amazon. They are true copper cables made for use in tough environments.


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## mossypossy (Oct 20, 2017)

Got some hefty 7 strand 2.5mm cable.

Who knew? The number of strands in a cable is only relevant for AC applications, as the current flows on the skin of each strand(more strands the better)
For DC current it flows through the entire strand, so even single core is fine.


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## harrow (Oct 20, 2017)

mossypossy said:


> Got some hefty 7 strand 2.5mm cable.
> 
> Who knew? The number of strands in a cable is only relevant for AC applications, as the current flows on the skin of each strand(more strands the better)
> For DC current it flows through the entire strand, so even single core is fine.



Have you taken the tablets the doctor gave you ?

Someone is pulling your leg ?

:rolleyes2::rolleyes2::rolleyes2:


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## mossypossy (Oct 20, 2017)

Read and wonder

Wires and Cables


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## wildebus (Oct 20, 2017)

mossypossy said:


> Got some hefty 7 strand 2.5mm cable.
> 
> Who knew? The number of strands in a cable is only relevant for AC applications, as the current flows on the skin of each strand(more strands the better)
> For DC current it flows through the entire strand, so even single core is fine.



You might be better off with 1.5mm, or maybe even 1.0mm if you are close to your payload limit? and to save a little more, get a razor blade and scrape off some of that overly thick insulation.  I read it online  :idea-007: c:


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## Canalsman (Oct 20, 2017)

Single core cabling must not be used in vehicles. It is too inflexible and may fracture.


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## harrow (Oct 20, 2017)

POI Admin said:


> Single core cabling must not be used in vehicles. It is too inflexible and may fracture.



Agreed *IF *it's going to vibrate it *might* fracture, having said that I have carried reels of single core cable thousands of miles and it is still fine.

Yes best choice would be multicore cable, 

:wave::wave::wave:


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## mossypossy (Oct 20, 2017)

Stuff I used is multicore and you can bend it into any shape you want and it stays in shape.


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## sparrks (Oct 20, 2017)

harrow said:


> Agreed *IF *it's going to vibrate it *might* fracture, having said that I have carried reels of single core cable thousands of miles and it is still fine.
> 
> Yes best choice would be multicore cable,
> 
> :wave::wave::wave:



Multi stranded!


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## trevskoda (Oct 20, 2017)

Admin said:


> I also use welding cables sourced via Amazon. They are true copper cables made for use in tough environments.



Jez man you could start frankinsten with that lot,more power egor.:scared:


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## harrow (Oct 20, 2017)

sparrks said:


> Multi stranded!


Quite correct, multi stranded, wire.
:bow::bow::bow:


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## harrow (Oct 20, 2017)

trevskoda said:


> Jez man you could start frankinsten with that lot,more power egor.:scared:



The night of the walking dead, halloween soon,

:hammer::scared::hammer::scared:


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## mossypossy (Oct 20, 2017)

Now I have split charger angst.
Can my Hobby one designed for one leisure battery cope with three?
A bloody can o' worms.


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## harrow (Oct 20, 2017)

mossypossy said:


> Now I have split charger angst.
> Can my Hobby one designed for one leisure battery cope with three?
> A bloody can o' worms.



Worms, good for your compost, worms are no good for charging your leisure battery.

Use a fuse to limit the current and protect your charger.

:rulez::rulez::rulez:


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## mossypossy (Oct 20, 2017)

*Minor setback*

Hmmmm

Does not seem to be charging on electrical hookup.
Ammeter on control panel is at zero.

LED light for charge status is red, meaning charge has not reached 14.4V.

Hooked up all wires as they were but what confused me was TWO wires from charger were Brown and Black.
Black was connected to +ve and Brown to -ve on original setup.

Could this be wrong? All on board electrics are working fine btw


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## wildebus (Oct 20, 2017)

I don't know about your van or setup, but black is usually ground and so is brown. time to check with a meter I think!


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## Peisinoe (Nov 21, 2017)

Hi all
The post came at a good time as I was having problems with power running out after 48h. The MH had two batteries when I got it so added another for more power. Having seen the wiring dia I have re-wired them. So before with 3 110amp batteries the control panel was 260amp allowing for 20%. The control panel now shows 115amp. My question is does it see the three as one 110amp or should it be all three?


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## colinm (Nov 21, 2017)

mossypossy said:


> Hmmmm
> 
> Does not seem to be charging on electrical hookup.
> Ammeter on control panel is at zero.
> ...



It is often the case that black is +ve and brown -ve.


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## mossypossy (Nov 21, 2017)

*All Good*

Had mine double checked by a leccy and was all good.

To previous poster

My control panel only shows volts.
390Ah is where we both should be.


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## Deleted member 53880 (Nov 22, 2017)

Fazerloz said:


> I did not say I bought cheap jump leads only that I found it cheaper to buy jump leads and cut the ends off. Cheap jump leads are not worth buying.



the ends make great clips for tarps,curtains etc.
Jan@wetwestlondon


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