# Anti seize compound.



## Obanboy666 (Feb 2, 2017)

Had to remove my pvc  offside front alloy wheel this morning to have a new valve fitted.
Had to resort to a sledge hammer and a chock of wood to  finally remove it as it was seized, dissimilar metal scenario as usual. I reckon I will remove the other 3 wheels before I venture out as it would be a nightmare to remove a seized wheel when I wouldn't have access to all my tools etc.
I seem to recall a tyre fitter once telling me not to use copper slip, any suggestions as to what to use to hopefully prevent it happening in the future ?


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## molly 2 (Feb 2, 2017)

Obanboy666 said:


> Had to remove my pvc  offside front alloy wheel this morning to have a new valve fitted.
> Had to resort to a sledge hammer and a chock of wood to  finally remove it as it was seized, dissimilar metal scenario as usual. I reckon I will remove the other 3 wheels before I venture out as it would be a nightmare to remove a seized wheel when I wouldn't have access to all my tools etc.
> I seem to recall a tyre fitter once telling me not to use copper slip, any suggestions as to what to use to hopefully prevent it happening in the future ?


. Comman problem usually caused by garages not removing wheels on service,  I personally would use copper slip ,also check if you can remove the spare ,


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## Obanboy666 (Feb 2, 2017)

molly 2 said:


> . Commander problem usually caused by garages not removing wheels on service,  I personally would use copper slip ,also check if you can remove the spare ,



I reckon they haven't been removed since it left the factory as still on original tyres !
Spare is ok, I dropped it down from its hanger when I first bought my pvc to ensure it was ok. I reckon I will use copperslip after cleaning the wheels and hubs.


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## Deleted member 775 (Feb 2, 2017)

alloy wheels do have a nasty habit of seizing on hubs ,basicaly the two differing metals for the want of a better word , ,anyway whatever you want to call them . you can use a smear of copper grease on the hub but never on the studs or nuts ,torque settings are quoted dry for studs .  but considering regular maintenance will overcome the wheel corroding in the first place  you shouldent realy need any grease  after all they dont come as standard/new with grease on them .you should remove alloys regularly  to clean the mating surfaces and the brake dust off the rear of the wheels realy  as it eats into the  lacquer applied to the alloy wheel and in time attacks the wheel itself ,there's nothing looks worse than scabby alloys . i prefer steel wheels over alloys any day and with the state of the roads nowadays alloys are all to easily bent and also cracked .i had one bent that warranted an advisory on the mot and one cracked that produced a fail on that dam bmw 525 alloys and runflats fitted i had a while back ,rather expensive repair on the cracked one nigh on 50 quid if i remember correctly ,but not as expensive as a replacement would have been ,the bent one well it went with that still on .


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## trevskoda (Feb 2, 2017)

Danger,never use cop/slip on ally wheels as dis metal and they will get eaten away,use 2/4c marine propshaft grease or motor bike chain anti fling grease.
Ebay 150999419221.


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## saxonborg (Feb 2, 2017)

trevskoda said:


> Danger,never use cop/slip on ally wheels as dis metal and they will get eaten away,use 2/4c marine propshaft grease or motor bike chain anti fling grease.



Agree, when copper comes into contact with aluminium or vice versa you get electrolytic action between the dissimilar metals. I would look for a grease that is ok with aluminium.


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## harrow (Feb 2, 2017)

Obanboy666 said:


> Had to remove my pvc  offside front alloy wheel this morning to have a new valve fitted.
> Had to resort to a sledge hammer and a chock of wood to  finally remove it as it was seized, dissimilar metal scenario as usual. I reckon I will remove the other 3 wheels before I venture out as it would be a nightmare to remove a seized wheel when I wouldn't have access to all my tools etc.
> I seem to recall a tyre fitter once telling me not to use copper slip, any suggestions as to what to use to hopefully prevent it happening in the future ?


My tip is you loosen the wheel nuts without jacking up, which is completely normal way.

Next with the wheel nuts generously slackened, grip the tyre and shake the vehicle side to side.

You use the weight of the vehicle to break the bond between the wheel and hub.

Then jack up and change the wheel as normal.

A little bit of multipurpose grease on the hub applied with an old toothbrush before the wheel is replaced.

I learned this from a RAC patrol man :idea-007:


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## Deleted member 5816 (Feb 2, 2017)

Rightly or wrongly I once made a brown paper gasket to fit on the hub before refitting my alloys on a previous van I will do so on the current van when the weather improves

Alf


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## Obanboy666 (Feb 2, 2017)

Might just not bother and remove the wheels frequently to check everything ok, being retired I have the time.


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## andyjanet (Feb 2, 2017)

harrow said:


> My tip is you loosen the wheel nuts without jacking up, which is completely normal way.
> 
> Next with the wheel nuts generously slackened, grip the tyre and shake the vehicle side to side.
> 
> ...



I Think i met the same rac man he told me to bump up and down a few kerbs, this didnt free it off so he got in and drove, i am so pleased it was a hire car if it had been mine i would have dragged him up and down the kerbs afterwards, the wheel would have definately been buckled and possibly needed the tracking doing, i think he thought he was a stunt driver i wouldnt trust him with a circus car. 
years ago everyone said use copper slip, but they have now changed the thinking and i just go for a heavy duty grease and wipe it off and reapply each time si you dont get any grit stuck between the parts,andy


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## runnach (Feb 2, 2017)

Lithium grease ? 

Also if you have had a wheel off it should be re torqued after 30 miles in most cases 

Channa


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## witzend (Feb 2, 2017)

Perhaps if one valve needed replacing the others need attention


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## GreggBear (Feb 2, 2017)

Obanboy666 said:


> Had to remove my pvc  offside front alloy wheel this morning to have a new valve fitted.
> Had to resort to a sledge hammer and a chock of wood to  finally remove it as it was seized, dissimilar metal scenario as usual. I reckon I will remove the other 3 wheels before I venture out as it would be a nightmare to remove a seized wheel when I wouldn't have access to all my tools etc.
> I seem to recall a tyre fitter once telling me not to use copper slip, any suggestions as to what to use to hopefully prevent it happening in the future ?



I have some anti seize grease, but its made with aluminium instead of copper. Got it from the power station, back when we were still owning our own country! Not sure what brand it is but very good on ally components, Sure it should be available somewhere near you.:cheers:


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## trevskoda (Feb 2, 2017)

GreggBear said:


> I have some anti seize grease, but its made with aluminium instead of copper. Got it from the power station, back when we were still owning our own country! Not sure what brand it is but very good on ally components, Sure it should be available somewhere near you.:cheers:


Yep you can buy it in spray cans these days,nut & bold shops sell it here,think its about £7 or £8 bucks.


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## GreggBear (Feb 2, 2017)

trevskoda said:


> Yep you can buy it in spray cans these days,nut & bold shops sell it here,think its about £7 or £8 bucks.



Saw it somewhere in a spray, can't be same as mine, mines in a tub and needs a stick, or a paintbrush to apply. Probably the same kinda fing tho, and no problem with electrolytic corrosion so should be safe to use.


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## chrismilo (Feb 2, 2017)

There was me thinking youve found a way of beating customs :lol-049::lol-049::lol-049::lol-049:


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## colinm (Feb 2, 2017)

If you want to do the job properly, don't use grease or any such thing. In my industry JC5 is the correct item or as we call it "parrots poop", I guess there will be product that you can buy specifically for the job.


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## portiapug (Feb 2, 2017)

A number of people on forums have been against using Copaslip for various reasons. I would use it but there again, I would only use a smear on the threads of the wheel bolts. The rims may be Aluminium but the bolts and the Hub are steel, so it does not matter unless you are clumsy enough to get it all over the rim as well.


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## Wooie1958 (Feb 2, 2017)

I take all 4 wheels off destone, clean, inspect and swap them side to side and front to back at least a couple of times a year    :hammer:

When replacing i use a tiny bit of Copper Slip Granville Copper Grease Slip Multi Purpose Anti Seize Assembly Compound 500g

I`ve never had a problem, my nuts are free and it also evens up the tyre wear beautifully    :dance:


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## mistericeman (Feb 2, 2017)

Lubricant shouldnt be used on the threads/nuts/bolts as above it affects the correct torque being obtained ....it should also be kept well away from the holes where the nuts sit as the taper of those allows the nuts/bolts with the corresponding taper to "grip" correctly


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## winks (Feb 2, 2017)

Wooie1958 said:


> I take all 4 wheels off destone, clean, inspect and swap them side to side and front to back at least a couple of times a year    :hammer:
> 
> When replacing i use a tiny bit of Copper Slip Granville Copper Grease Slip Multi Purpose Anti Seize Assembly Compound 500g
> 
> I`ve never had a problem, my nuts are free and it also evens up the tyre wear beautifully    :dance:



Glad to hear that. Keeps 'em cooler in hot weather.:lol-053::lol-053:

Cheers

H


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## harrow (Feb 2, 2017)

andyjanet said:


> I Think i met the same rac man he told me to bump up and down a few kerbs, this didnt free it off so he got in and drove, i am so pleased it was a hire car if it had been mine i would have dragged him up and down the kerbs afterwards, the wheel would have definately been buckled and possibly needed the tracking doing, i think he thought he was a stunt driver i wouldnt trust him with a circus car.
> years ago everyone said use copper slip, but they have now changed the thinking and i just go for a heavy duty grease and wipe it off and reapply each time si you dont get any grit stuck between the parts,andy


NO
Don't drive the car.
With the wheel bolt/nuts generously loosened grip the tyre and shake the wheel backwards and forwards as though you are checking for play in the suspension.
If you get underneath the car with a lump hammer you risk the car falling off the jack.
Using this described manner is much safer.
Always it is preferable to make sure the wheels are not seized on and the bolts are tightened up again with a torque wrench afterwards.:hammer:


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## GWAYGWAY (Feb 2, 2017)

Alloy on steel is a sure fire corrosion cause,  I always put a smear of  copaslip or other brand available, onto the steel parts before remounting the wheel, IT is fine on the  alloy and steel but NEVER on the wheelnuts or studs as that will give the chance of unwinding on the road.
It is also wise to use it on all wheels not just alloy ones as good old rust stuck (welded)  the steel wheels and hubs on my Transit when I first got it. Luckily I did all the wheels whilst at home before I needed to change one on the road, The twin rear wheels were the worst  as they we jacked from the hub as they had never been off in 8 years from new.   However one more thing especially transits, ALWAYS do the nuts up diagonally and to the correct torque in stages or you WILL get pulsing brakes from the distortion of the drum/ hub assembly if you do not.


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## Deleted member 775 (Feb 2, 2017)

trevskoda said:


> Danger,never use cop/slip on ally wheels as dis metal and they will get eaten away,use 2/4c marine propshaft grease or motor bike chain anti fling grease.
> Ebay 150999419221.



yes true it can react i suppose . jaguar recommend a high melt point grease or they used to do ,not sure now .


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## m30 (Feb 2, 2017)

I've been putting copperslip on wheel nut or wheel stud threads for the last 30 years, and have never yet had one come loose. As long as the tapered surface is clean and dry, as it is this surface that creates the friction which stops the nut or stud coming loose. 
Lubricating the threads will not alter the torque setting, the nut or studs will have some sort of lubricant on them when they are machined and fit at the factory. Letting the threads corrode will however alter the torque setting and you head towards the nut or stud being thread bound rather than tight.

Stu


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## molly 2 (Feb 2, 2017)

Obanboy666 said:


> I reckon they haven't been removed since it left the factory as still on original tyres !
> Spare is ok, I dropped it down from its hanger when I first bought my pvc to ensure it was ok. I reckon I will use copperslip after cleaning the wheels and hubs.


,My 4  year old van as been main dealer serviced from new  ,the wheels have never been removed ,next service I will insist the wheels are removed and greased ,if not they won't get the work ,when an alloy wheel is seized on solid no amount of pulling will release it ,then  drastic measures have to be taken .


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## Byronic (Feb 2, 2017)

Alloy wheels, essentially a triumph of style (debatable) over practicability? More  expensive , more maintenance required and often heavier than the steel equivalent.
Is the attempt at tarting up what is essentially a delivery vehicle really worth it? 
Lipstick on a pig isn't going to change the fact that it's a pig.
Steel wheels for vans then you can use copaslip, alloys for the Bimmer!


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## Obanboy666 (Feb 2, 2017)

witzend said:


> Perhaps if one valve needed replacing the others need attention



No, my Tyrepal sensor was seized on and i basically destroyed it trying to remove it and damaged the valve. the rest are ok. new sensor arriving tomoss, £33.00 plus carriage. i could buy a full system including the solar powered display unit for £99.00 the robbing so and so's.


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## Obanboy666 (Feb 2, 2017)

Byronic said:


> Alloy wheels, essentially a triumph of style (debatable) over practicability? More  expensive , more maintenance required and often heavier than the steel equivalent.
> Is the attempt at tarting up what is essentially a delivery vehicle really worth it?
> Lipstick on a pig isn't going to change the fact that it's a pig.
> Steel wheels for vans then you can use copaslip, alloys for the Bimmer!



Have to agree with you regarding the weight, but my pvc came with alloys fitted.


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## Wooie1958 (Feb 2, 2017)

Wooie1958 said:


> I take all 4 wheels off destone, clean, inspect and swap them side to side and front to back at least a couple of times a year    :hammer:
> 
> When replacing i use a tiny bit of Copper Slip Granville Copper Grease Slip Multi Purpose Anti Seize Assembly Compound 500g
> 
> I`ve never had a problem, *my nuts are free* and it also evens up the tyre wear beautifully    :dance:





mistericeman said:


> Lubricant shouldnt be used on the threads/nuts/bolts as above it affects the correct torque being obtained ....it should also be kept well away from the holes where the nuts sit as the taper of those allows the nuts/bolts with the corresponding taper to "grip" correctly





I would like to formally apologise to the right honourable member for misleading the fine membership of this glorious forum   :bow:

This was purely down to my laziness and lack of full information in my post     :sad:

*My nuts are free* because they are regularly taken off and put back on at the correct torque and not because i put Copper Slip on them.

I put a tiny amount / very thin smear of Copper Slip on the face of the hub, i`m very careful not to get any on my nuts / studs   :dance:


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## Obanboy666 (Feb 2, 2017)

GreggBear said:


> I have some anti seize grease, but its made with aluminium instead of copper. Got it from the power station, back when we were still owning our own country! Not sure what brand it is but very good on ally components, Sure it should be available somewhere near you.:cheers:



I have been rooting about in my man shed and came across some aluminium anti seize paste from my time on the tools. i am going to put a thin coating on all 4 wheels and hubs tomoss but leave the wheel bolts alone. Looking at the bolts they are corrosion free and  appear to have some type of lubricant on them  which must have been on from when it left the factory.


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## Fazerloz (Feb 2, 2017)

mistericeman said:


> Lubricant shouldnt be used on the threads/nuts/bolts as above it affects the correct torque being obtained ....it should also be kept well away from the holes where the nuts sit as the taper of those allows the nuts/bolts with the corresponding taper to "grip" correctly





m30 said:


> I've been putting copperslip on wheel nut or wheel stud threads for the last 30 years, and have never yet had one come loose. As long as the tapered surface is clean and dry, as it is this surface that creates the friction which stops the nut or stud coming loose.
> Lubricating the threads will not alter the torque setting, the nut or studs will have some sort of lubricant on them when they are machined and fit at the factory. Letting the threads corrode will however alter the torque setting and you head towards the nut or stud being thread bound rather than tight.
> 
> Stu




Mistericeman is right there is  big difference in what is classed as wet or dry torque and it also alters with what type of lubricant is used. The manual should specify the torque and whether wet or dry. If it does not say it should be taken as clean and dry. If you look you should be able to find a chart that shows how to compensate for the type lubricant used.


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## maingate (Feb 2, 2017)

I think 'wet' or 'dry' torque doesn't matter a damn if you are using the cheap Torque Wrenches from discount shops and ebay. I would not trust them to be accurate after a few uses.


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## trevskoda (Feb 2, 2017)

colinmd said:


> If you want to do the job properly, don't use grease or any such thing. In my industry JC5 is the correct item or as we call it "parrots poop", I guess there will be product that you can buy specifically for the job.


Shut up POLLY,peaces of eight.:lol-053:


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## IanH (Feb 2, 2017)

Don't even think about using copperslip

With a steel hub and an alloy wheel, and copperslip, add some water you have built a battery. This will cause corrosion to the easiest metal to corrode, the alloy in the wheel. This will then, not only damage the wheel, it will perfectly glue it to the hub.

There is only one use of copperslip on a vehicle and that's on the back of the brake pads.:danger:


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## trevskoda (Feb 2, 2017)

portiapug said:


> A number of people on forums have been against using Copaslip for various reasons. I would use it but there again, I would only use a smear on the threads of the wheel bolts. The rims may be Aluminium but the bolts and the Hub are steel, so it does not matter unless you are clumsy enough to get it all over the rim as well.



The alloy wheel touches the hub and this is where the problem exists,or do you rims hang in mid air.


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## trevskoda (Feb 2, 2017)

m30 said:


> I've been putting copperslip on wheel nut or wheel stud threads for the last 30 years, and have never yet had one come loose. As long as the tapered surface is clean and dry, as it is this surface that creates the friction which stops the nut or stud coming loose.
> Lubricating the threads will not alter the torque setting, the nut or studs will have some sort of lubricant on them when they are machined and fit at the factory. Letting the threads corrode will however alter the torque setting and you head towards the nut or stud being thread bound rather than tight.
> 
> Stu



Its not on the threads but put on the hub to wheel face as these are the bits that stick not the studs,45 years working on cars but i may be wrong.


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## trevskoda (Feb 2, 2017)

Byronic said:


> Alloy wheels, essentially a triumph of style (debatable) over practicability? More  expensive , more maintenance required and often heavier than the steel equivalent.
> Is the attempt at tarting up what is essentially a delivery vehicle really worth it?
> Lipstick on a pig isn't going to change the fact that it's a pig.
> Steel wheels for vans then you can use copaslip, alloys for the Bimmer!



Lippy on a pig,i have just let my wife see your thread,not amused.:hammer:


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## m30 (Feb 2, 2017)

trevskoda said:


> Its not on the threads but put on the hub to wheel face as these are the bits that stick not the studs,45 years working on cars but i may be wrong.



Yeah i put it on the mating surface as well as the threads, and i've never had problems with anything coming loose or the wheel corroding either.

Maybe i'm just lucky, or blissfully ignorant


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## molly 2 (Feb 2, 2017)

JUST a comment, is copper slip is an anti seize compound  not a lubricant  .


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## portiapug (Feb 2, 2017)

trevskoda said:


> The alloy wheel touches the hub and this is where the problem exists,or do you rims hang in mid air.



Read my post again Trev. The copper slip is only a thin film on the bolt threads and the bolt is screwed into the hub. There is no copperslip outside of the tapped holes to cause a problem. I started workig in mechanical engineering in 1963, so have more time in than yourself. When I started, an Irish 4 x 4 had four hooves and two big pointy ears.


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## molly 2 (Feb 3, 2017)

portiapug said:


> Read my post again Trev. The copper slip is only a thin film on the bolt threads and the bolt is screwed into the hub. There is no copperslip outside of the tapped holes to cause a problem. I started workig in mechanical engineering in 1963, so have more time in than yourself. When I started, an Irish 4 x 4 had four hooves and two big pointy ears.


would that be a 1963 Clydesdale .


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## Deleted member 775 (Feb 3, 2017)

portiapug said:


> Read my post again Trev. The copper slip is only a thin film on the bolt threads and the bolt is screwed into the hub. There is no copperslip outside of the tapped holes to cause a problem. I started workig in mechanical engineering in 1963, so have more time in than yourself. When I started, an Irish 4 x 4 had four hooves and two big pointy ears.



my take on the subject is this ,copper slip on brake components ie brake pads , shoes yep they still use them ,you can use on mating surfaces of alloys but mabey high melt grease is preferable realy . i would never use any grease or product like copper slip on internal wheel studs external ones with nuts well mabey not so critical as there exposed ,and a totaly different mount system realy . the reason why in my oppinion and many experts as there called is that the internal thread type torque settings are set by the manufacturer  as dry , introducing a grease like compond alters the tourque reading you will get on tightening .i cannot remember now correctly ,but i believe if you set the torque  to say 50lbft dry ,fine but with grease on the threads  the actual lbft the studs receive is somewhat lower than the indicated settings on the wrench .i hope this is understandable as i have never been that good at explanations anyway . as for tightening wheel studs/nuts  how many times have i seen people tightning there wheel with spiders crack bars and the worst offender the dreaded windy gun . all cars are well those that have spare wheels that is ,equiped with a wheel wrench  they can be of differing sizes .these have been designed to give the correct torque for each vehicles wheel fastenings ,when used by a average person  and are ample for the correct and safe fitting of the studs/nuts . when i have a tyre fitted i wont let the tyre fitter tighten my nuts with a windy gun .if he objects i go to another fitting bay that easy or insist they use a torque wrench at the correct setting ,mind you the way they chuck a precision instrument about the workshop dont fill me with hope realy .


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## Deleted member 52918 (Feb 3, 2017)

my experience is that not many so called mechanics are real mechanics.
This is why I started maintaining mine & my families vehicles.

So when I change my tyres/wheels I always check the studs Or bolts for stretch, clean the threads & mating surfaces but I don't grease them.

A little info on copper grease, it's a mineral based anti seize compound, which will over time perish any rubber it comes into contact with!

i only use red rubber grease or a good silicon based grease, to lube my brake pads metal to metal bits & sliders/guide pins, if you put copper grease on the back of the pads, yes it may well stop them squealing but the piston dust covers, will perish after a year or so.

Phill


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## caledonia (Feb 3, 2017)

Worked on trucks and cars for 30 plus years and never had issues with using copper slip on mating surfaces or wheel bolts or studs. Fitted Alcoa alloys on trucks and as long as the surfaces are clean. The most important thing is making sure the wheel and the bolts are evenly torqued and retorqued at regular intervals.


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## Deleted member 56601 (Feb 3, 2017)

time4t said:


> my experience is that not many so called mechanics are real mechanics.
> This is why I started maintaining mine & my families vehicles.
> 
> So when I change my tyres/wheels I always check the studs Or bolts for stretch, clean the threads & mating surfaces but* I don't grease them.
> ...



Quite right.

The wheels are designed with the flat pads for a reason. When the nuts/bolts are tightened they increase the friction between the wheel and the hub. The power from the hub to the wheel is transferred through those surfaces, so any form of lubricant will lower the friction and put the load onto the studs/bolts instead.


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## Fazerloz (Feb 3, 2017)

molly 2 said:


> JUST a comment, is copper slip is an anti seize compound  not a lubricant  .



Copper slip, or copper grease,  copper slip anti seize lubricant  to give it it's full title are all lubricants


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## trevskoda (Feb 3, 2017)

molly 2 said:


> JUST a comment, is copper slip is an anti seize compound  not a lubricant  .



Yes.


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## trevskoda (Feb 3, 2017)

molly 2 said:


> would that be a 1963 Clydesdale .



I and look where they put the tail light.:scared::lol-053::lol-053::lol-053:


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## trevskoda (Feb 3, 2017)

portiapug said:


> Read my post again Trev. The copper slip is only a thin film on the bolt threads and the bolt is screwed into the hub. There is no copperslip outside of the tapped holes to cause a problem. I started workig in mechanical engineering in 1963, so have more time in than yourself. When I started, an Irish 4 x 4 had four hooves and two big pointy ears.



And as i said its the wheel to mating surface that causes the problem of sticking /bonding due to indif/metals,even once studs removed it can be very hard to free the wheel from the hub and at times i have had to revert to the sledge hammer,backing the studs of and rocking works the odd time.


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## Ysbytymike (Feb 3, 2017)

Like m30, I've been using copper grease on wheel nuts on both my cars and motorbikes for many many years and never had one come loose. I ride all year round so pick up so much crud during the winter months!
Bit of common sense is all that's needed. just enough copper grease to lightly cover the thread and there's never a problem removing them. As far as wheels sticking on the hub - Loosen them now and again to stop it happening in the first place. Don't even need to take the wheels off to do this.


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## molly 2 (Feb 3, 2017)

Put a thin smear of copper slip in your pants and your nuts will never seize or drop off .


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## Mick H (Feb 3, 2017)

I have used "Coppaslip", for years, on Alloy wheels, studs, and the back of brake pads, without ANY issues, at all.

Incidentally, I don't even use a torque wrench, to check the tighteness, just many years of experience. Again, I haven't had any problems.

I remember, many years ago, an ex Polish Airforce colleague, who said "Torkqe wrenches are for women & children". Whilst I didn't agree with his sentiments, I saw his point. This was a man who had learnt his trade, before WW2, and had serviced/repaired Spitfires.


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## colinm (Feb 3, 2017)

I've spent several decades working in the aerospace industry including working on Merlins Spitfires etc rarely touching a torque wench, but I always use one on wheel nuts/bolts.


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## Deleted member 775 (Feb 3, 2017)

Mick H said:


> I have used "Coppaslip", for years, on Alloy wheels, studs, and the back of brake pads, without ANY issues, at all.
> 
> Incidentally, I don't even use a torque wrench, to check the tighteness, just many years of experience. Again, I haven't had any problems.
> 
> I remember, many years ago, an ex Polish Airforce colleague, who said "Torkqe wrenches are for women & children". Whilst I didn't agree with his sentiments, I saw his point. This was a man who had learnt his trade, before WW2, and had serviced/repaired Spitfires.



do you know ,i used copper slip on brake components ,Vaseline on battery posts ,lubricant on door hinges  on every service i did when i was in the motor trade ,as they call it ,because that was the requirement . now nah wouldn't bother ,basically its a silly expense . today ive just fitted new front disks /discs  whichever spelling you want ,or you could call them rotors ,and pads  all round ,back and front on my alhambra , ready for the summer and choking the highways and byways with my CARAVAN :lol-053::wave: ,i havent used owt ,just took the old bits off ,new bits on and will now forget that part ,they will last the life of the car hopefully they cost enough . no probs taking the wheels of ,because i have good old steel ones .i took the alloys of wen i got the thing ,sold them for nigh on 200 quid ,fitted steel ones for a pittance and will never have the problems alloy give you again ,you dont realy need all these fancy things like copper slip and fancy greases  and additives its a money making scam  .buy a new car ,van bike or bus  is there grease ,fat ,copper slip plastered every where ?????? .  as for torque wrenches apart from rebuilding engines and gearboxes which i used to enjoy ,doubt i would now though , old engineers always believed in giving there nuts a good flogging up ,why change things in real life


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## trevskoda (Feb 3, 2017)

When i worked as a grease monkey we always had a good larf at the curb side cowboys botch ups on cars.:lol-053:


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## Tony Lee (Feb 4, 2017)

mistericeman said:


> Lubricant shouldnt be used on the threads/nuts/bolts as above it affects the correct torque being obtained ....it should also be kept well away from the holes where the nuts sit as the taper of those allows the nuts/bolts with the corresponding taper to "grip" correctly



Worth repeating a couple of times



mistericeman said:


> Lubricant shouldnt be used on the  threads/nuts/bolts as above it affects the correct torque being obtained  ....it should also be kept well away from the holes where the nuts sit  as the taper of those allows the nuts/bolts with the corresponding taper  to "grip" correctly



The biggest offenders are the tyre fitters who slather antiseize on everything and then tighten the nuts up with a rattle gun.

I do have one vehicle - an OKA - that does specify lubricated threads (but not nut to rim mating surface) but the specified torque is about half that of another vehicle with same diameter studs and no-lube specification so that is OK from an engineering perspective


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## listerdiesel (Feb 4, 2017)

Wow!

Interesting range of thoughts/opinions.

We have used Copaslip on the Discovery V8's (3 of them) for the wheel centres AND the nuts/studs and the spark plugs. 170k miles across them and no issues.

Tightness is checked regularly but haven't lost a wheel or a nut yet. Same on the trailer, regular checks for tightness forestalls any issues.

Plated steel into alloy is a problem, think V8 spark plugs into alloy heads and alloy wheels and steel nuts. The road wheel stud threads will seize and tear if not lubricated.

Copaslip is a useful tool in the toolkit if used intelligently.

Peter


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## Obanboy666 (Feb 5, 2017)

Well all wheels removed, cleaned up and a thin smear of aluminium anti seize compound applied.
The remaining front wheel came off after some hefty blows with my trusty sledge hammer but the 2 rear wheels were a nightmare.
It's the nearest I have ever come to a vehicle dropping of my 2 x hydraulic jacks. Both took some serious whacking with the sledge hammer but finally came off.
So pleased I have sorted them out, dread to think how I would have managed if I had a puncture when out on my travels as I don't tend to carry a sledge hammer and a large piece of 6" x 6" chock in my pvc !


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