# Eberspacher service needed?



## David Morison (Nov 7, 2016)

I've been given an old Eberspacher diesel heater and running a bench test raised a question. On startup, which happens as it should, a good deal of white smoke comes from the exhaust. I don't recall any other heater doing this but my experience is limited, is this normal or is this a sign of inefficient startup and if so what do I do about it. Is a service expensive or can I do it myself with the help of the manual?

Many thanks


----------



## ashbyspannerman (Nov 8, 2016)

You can get a service kit, but as it's white smoke it may be possible to fix without stripping, I presume you are running it on diesel on the bench? Eberspacher reccomend running it on kerosene for a while, this burns hotter and will clear out a 'gummed up' heater without stripping sometimes. Not a 'bodge' as I say this is what Eberspacher actually reccomend.


----------



## FULL TIMER (Nov 8, 2016)

what model, white smoke is normally a sign of the plug strainer being blocked sorting this is normally a case of removing the glow pin, and digging the old one out and replacing I only really have experience of the D2 / D4 models but I believe the D3 is pretty similar although a much bigger strainer, the strainers are basically a round gauze that fits into the heater below the glow pin they can be fiddly to remove take a look over here to get an idea
Eberspacher D2


----------



## carol (Nov 8, 2016)

FULL TIMER said:


> what model, white smoke is normally a sign of the plug strainer being blocked sorting this is normally a case of removing the glow pin, and digging the old one out and replacing I only really have experience of the D2 / D4 models but I believe the D3 is pretty similar although a much bigger strainer, the strainers are basically a round gauze that fits into the heater below the glow pin they can be fiddly to remove take a look over here to get an idea
> Eberspacher D2



Think I've asked before but how can I tell which model I have? My van is 2003 but I suppose that doesn't mean much.


----------



## n brown (Nov 8, 2016)

carol said:


> Think I've asked before but how can I tell which model I have? My van is 2003 but I suppose that doesn't mean much.


 little white label on the body tells you.
on the Webasto white smoke was caused by the felt pad being burnt out,behind the glow plug, stripping these machines isn't too hard, but parts are dear . ring this bunch, very helpful, and diagnosed my problem over the phone Eberspacher or Webasto heating from ButlerTechnik | UK Dealer | Espar and this is handy too Eberspacher D2


----------



## David Morison (Nov 8, 2016)

FULL TIMER said:


> what model, white smoke is normally a sign of the plug strainer being blocked sorting this is normally a case of removing the glow pin, and digging the old one out and replacing I only really have experience of the D2 / D4 models but I believe the D3 is pretty similar although a much bigger strainer, the strainers are basically a round gauze that fits into the heater below the glow pin they can be fiddly to remove take a look over here to get an idea
> Eberspacher D2



It's a D3L which I believe was never sold in the UK and hasn't been made for quite a while so spares may be difficult. I'll get some kero today and run it for a while on that to see if that does the job, otherwise it's a spanner event.

Many thanks for the advice.

David


----------



## molly 2 (Nov 8, 2016)

Lots of service info on you tube .


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 8, 2016)

David Morison said:


> I've been given an old Eberspacher diesel heater and running a bench test raised a question. On startup, which happens as it should, a good deal of white smoke comes from the exhaust. I don't recall any other heater doing this but my experience is limited, is this normal or is this a sign of inefficient startup and if so what do I do about it. Is a service expensive or can I do it myself with the help of the manual?
> 
> Many thanks



A tip on the white smoke problem ... switch on the unit and spray a bit of WD40 up the combustion air intake ... if the unit fires up almost immediately with no smoke then your glow plug screen is definitely clogged as per my post HERE

Hope this helps.

P.S. For D3 parts, try here

Ron.


----------



## spigot (Nov 8, 2016)

carol said:


> Think I've asked before but how can I tell which model I have? My van is 2003 but I suppose that doesn't mean much.



You have a D2, Carol


----------



## David Morison (Nov 9, 2016)

Auld Pharrrt said:


> A tip on the white smoke problem ... switch on the unit and spray a bit of WD40 up the combustion air intake ... if the unit fires up almost immediately with no smoke then your glow plug screen is definitely clogged as per my post HERE
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> ...


 Many thanks I'll try this and other suggestions today.

I have another question - the fan on the heater does emit a high pitched whine, not too obtrusive but is this normal?

Many thanks


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 9, 2016)

David Morison said:


> Many thanks I'll try this and other suggestions today.
> 
> I have another question - the fan on the heater does emit a high pitched whine, not too obtrusive but is this normal?
> 
> Many thanks



TBH we all have differing hearing so what may be a whine to you might not be audible to me ... BUT if the fan blade spins freely by hand then it MIGHT be a bearing ... it's an easy job to remove the covers and check for anything maybe lodged inside ... I found my fan had been rubbing against the casing at the intake a little and I cleaned everything up by switching the fan to ventilate and used a stanley knife to remove the plastic ... sorta like a lathe and chisel ... on re-assembly I found that one of the four "legs" that support the motor was cracked and I had a bit of a hard time getting the fan blade re-aligned without any contact between the fan and the casing. but perseverance prevailed in the end.

Unless the fan's speed is affected enough to make the unit close down I wouldn't worry too much about it.


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 9, 2016)

p.s. If running it on a test bench you might not have any ducting ... ducting will reduce the noise level a little.


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 9, 2016)

What neck of the woods are you in David?


----------



## David Morison (Nov 9, 2016)

Auld Pharrrt said:


> What neck of the woods are you in David?



Fulbeck, West Lincs


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 9, 2016)

David Morison said:


> Fulbeck, West Lincs



Ahh ... too far for me.


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 9, 2016)

David Morison said:


> Many thanks I'll try this and other suggestions today.
> 
> I have another question - the fan on the heater does emit a high pitched whine, not too obtrusive but is this normal?
> 
> Many thanks



Just fired mine up while on the way to Perth for some shopping ... yes, it does make a sort of hoover/jet like whine when going at full pelt ... I've been around these things for so long that to be honest, I had to listen for it, then it is very obvious.


----------



## David Morison (Nov 10, 2016)

Auld Pharrrt said:


> Just fired mine up while on the way to Perth for some shopping ... yes, it does make a sort of hoover/jet like whine when going at full pelt ... I've been around these things for so long that to be honest, I had to listen for it, then it is very obvious.



Yes thanks, I've detected that the whining comes from the combustion inlet which will be outside the vehicle and can be silenced so no hardship. After having tried the other suggestions the unit is still smoking on startup but some of this may be water vapour as the unit is cold, however there is a fair amount of smoke still on shutdown so I've decided to get it to a local Eberspacher dealer for  a service, it may cost me a bit but as the unit cost me nothing I'm prepared to pay to have it sorted, as when it's fitted it would be a bugger if it packs up.

Many thanks for all the help.

David


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 10, 2016)

David Morison said:


> Yes thanks, I've detected that the whining comes from the combustion inlet which will be outside the vehicle and can be silenced so no hardship. After having tried the other suggestions the unit is still smoking on startup but some of this may be water vapour as the unit is cold, however there is a fair amount of smoke still on shutdown so I've decided to get it to a local Eberspacher dealer for  a service, it may cost me a bit but as the unit cost me nothing I'm prepared to pay to have it sorted, as when it's fitted it would be a bugger if it packs up.
> 
> Many thanks for all the help.
> 
> David



Well, I can understand your decision, but personally if it was me, not knowing its history, I'd fire it up on your test bench (using WD40 up the combustion intake to get it started) and let it run for at least an hour, this will burn off any excessive crud and unburnt fuel inside then allow the unit to shut down in the normal fashion.

If you fully understand how they work you'd know why I say this, so please forgive the explanation that follows if it sounds patronising.

When firing up the unit runs through a self check routine, then, if it's happy to do so it will attempt to fire up by heating the glow plug and injecting some fuel ... a failed start-up will cause it then to close down ... the routine here is to fire up the glow plug to burn any remaining fuel (thus preventing smoke on subsequent start ups.)  Now, if your unit has failed to start on several previous occasions (especially if due to a fouled glow plug screen) there will be lots of unburnt fuel around therefore more smoke on next attempt etc.

I swear by the use of WD40 to get the thing running initially, once the flame ignites the smoke will stop immediately and the unit will run as normal (assuming there are no overheat problems, which are unlikely) ... If you allow it to run for at least an hour, any crap inside will be burned off and expelled through the exhaust (sparks may be evident, in fact I'd be surprised if there were none.)  After the first run at full pelt for an hour, you will find that it will fire up quicker and easier with the help of WD40 (though will probably still smoke heavily if the screen is clogged.)  If this is the case, then it tells you two things.

1. The fact you have smoke means your glow plug IS working, maybe not to its fullest capabilities (unlikely) but possibly due due lowish battery power.
2. The glow plug screen is most definitely clogged.

Replacing the glow plug screen is such a simple job and quite inexpensive at around £6 I would give that a try first ... The old D5 I am using came to me via Ebay, it was sold as "Not Working for Spares or Repair" ... it came out of an old boat after lying redundant for years (and judging by its appearance partially submerged.)  It smoked like you would never believe ... something like this ... smoking

As you can see, this can be quite scary the first time you experience it, but a good squirt of WD40 into the small combustion air intake WILL stop it almost immediately.

My cure was to replace the glow plug screen (I also replaced the glow plug, though unnecessary I had ordered one and it might save me having to do it later.)  Since then there has been a tiny puff of smoke at start-up and none at all at shut down.

An official full service by a dealer is a costly thing, but if you decide to go down that route then I'd advise shopping around.

Feel free to PM me or post again if I can help in any way ... it's a shame postage would be expensive or I'd offer to sort it out for you.


----------



## David Morison (Nov 10, 2016)

Auld Pharrrt said:


> Well, I can understand your decision, but personally if it was me, not knowing its history, I'd fire it up on your test bench (using WD40 up the combustion intake to get it started) and let it run for at least an hour, this will burn off any excessive crud and unburnt fuel inside then allow the unit to shut down in the normal fashion.
> 
> If you fully understand how they work you'd know why I say this, so please forgive the explanation that follows if it sounds patronising.
> 
> ...



OK youve given me the confidence to at least check out the plug strainer, I'm usually pretty good at this sort of task but not knowing the kit made me hesitate. As it hasn't cost me a penny so far, apart from a little diesel, I really don't have anything to lose so I'll crack on! I'll let you know how I get on.

Thanks


----------



## David Morison (Nov 12, 2016)

So I've managed to locate the glowplug but no idea how to remove the strainer, I can't see any thing through the hole neither can I locate a diagram of the internals, do I have to dismantle the combustion chamber?

Thanks


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 12, 2016)

David Morison said:


> So I've managed to locate the glowplug but no idea how to remove the strainer, I can't see any thing through the hole neither can I locate a diagram of the internals, do I have to dismantle the combustion chamber?
> 
> Thanks



No there is no need to dismantle anything ... once the glow plug is removed, when you look in the hole there should be a gauze (not obvious when filthy) which has a metal ring at the end you are viewing from and usually a small lug sticking out.

The easiest way to remove the gauze is to force a small bladed screwdriver down the outside edge of the gauze and ring bending it in a little, then, using a pair of snipe nosed pliers (pointy ones) grip the edge you have bent in and wind it up a little (like opening a tin of corned beef with one of those silly key things) and extract the thing ... take a note of the position the lug is in so you can put the new one in the same place ... I'll try to find a picture.

Ron.


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 12, 2016)

Ah, found a cracking picture ...


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 12, 2016)

Ah, found a cracking picture ... View attachment 48341 ... the pic is a D1, but they are basically all the same except the output.

Re-assembly is simply a reverse of what you have done once you slip the new screen in.


----------



## David Morison (Nov 12, 2016)

Many thanks for a ll your help but I done a fair bit of googling and it appears that the basic D3L doesn't have a strainer, the glowplug hole is much smaller with no shoulder for a strainer. So I'm back to square one, might just have to put up with the smoke!

David


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 12, 2016)

David Morison said:


> Many thanks for a ll your help but I done a fair bit of googling and it appears that the basic D3L doesn't have a strainer, the glowplug hole is much smaller with no shoulder for a strainer. So I'm back to square one, might just have to put up with the smoke!
> 
> David



Sorry David, but I believe you are mistaken ... see the highlighted part of the picture which clearly shows the Glow Plug and Screen in the exploded view of the D3.



It's part number is 251822060400  To see the original see here

P.S. This might be a silly question, but is it definitely a 12v D3 ... not either 24v or B3?


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 12, 2016)

This is a B3 (petrol) glow pin ... 

This is the diesel glow plugs ...  ... I have a brand new D1 spare from my old heater.

If your glow plug looks like the first one, it could explain the problem!


----------



## David Morison (Nov 12, 2016)

Definitely a 12v diesel D3L but not the LC. The diameter of the glowplug element is only a mm or so less than the screw hole so no room for a strainer.


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 12, 2016)

David Morison said:


> Definitely a 12v diesel D3L but not the LC. The diameter of the glowplug element is only a mm or so less than the screw hole so no room for a strainer.



Can you see any part number on the glow pin?
Is it ceramic or wire?
Can you post a picture?

Someone has maybe replaced the original with the wrong thing!


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 12, 2016)

Is there a small lug showing in the hole?
I wonder if someone has replaced the glow plug without a screen?
If the screen has been omitted, you should see the hole where the fuel is injected ... try poking a flexible piece of wire up the fuel pipe because the end of the fuel pipe may be blocked.


----------



## FULL TIMER (Nov 12, 2016)

The D3L heater does not have a plug strainer they have a wick inside the combustion chamber there is some info in these links
eberspacher d3l - Google Search

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...S-FrOUZfQ-lCXYbMXhvuJA&bvm=bv.138493631,d.d24


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 12, 2016)

FULL TIMER said:


> The D3L heater does not have a plug strainer they have a wick inside the combustion chamber there is some info in these links
> eberspacher d3l - Google Search
> 
> https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...S-FrOUZfQ-lCXYbMXhvuJA&bvm=bv.138493631,d.d24



My hat is off to you FT ... I was going by what I had found on the H Bowers website ... Thank you for clarifying that.  Looks like David will have to do the full service then, unless the glow pin is goosed.

David, you have my apologies for possibly mis-leading you ... I genuinely thought it was the same as the D3LC.


----------



## FULL TIMER (Nov 12, 2016)

One thing for certain is the newer ebers are definitely a lot easier to work on.


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 12, 2016)

FULL TIMER said:


> One thing for certain is the newer ebers are definitely a lot easier to work on.



I gotta agree with you there.


----------



## Auld Pharrrt (Nov 14, 2016)

David, I hope this link might help you ...WICKEberspacher D3L Heater Heat Exchanger Liner/Wick 251482060006


----------



## mistericeman (Nov 14, 2016)

This is a useful site for us eberspacher users .....

Eberspacher D2


----------

