# Leisure Battery Replacement



## cdmoreear (Jul 2, 2016)

Hi All,

I am in the process of replacing my two 125Ah batteries.   

I know about the excellent discount scheme secured by Phil with Alpha batteries but it seems, reading the posts, some are not too happy with their choice of battery.  It does seem, unless you are technically aware, for most of us, including me, replacing leisure batteries is a bit of a lottery.  

Then I found out about the NCC Verified Leisure Battery Scheme.

This next bit comes from their website:

This scheme provides product verification for batteries used in leisure vehicles (touring caravans and motorhomes)  Click on the link below and scroll down to select the battery class you require:

Find an NCC Verified Leisure Battery 

Looking at the list Platinum batteries feature heavily in the Class A category. (Category A is for batteries with a higher storage capacity for people who frequently use their touring caravan or motor home away from an electrical hook-up).

A bit more crawling through website and I found Leisure Batteries | Platinum Batteries (Europe) Ltd 

This very helpful page helps you identify which type of product is best for your type of motorhome use.

Having chosen my batteries, Trojan 31 AGM, I am know waiting to hear back from Alpha for costs.

This whole process took me a bit longer than a day to unravel which is why I decided to share it.

It may save you some time but more importantly may help others to choose the right battery and the best price.

Useful links Buy Car Batteries & Leisure Batteries Online - Free Next Day Delivery - Alpha Batteries  Alpha Batteries have agreed to give our Full Members a discount of up to 29% off the standard price of their batteries. 

You need to call them as there is no discount box to enter code at checkout.

*DISCOUNT CODE REMOVED BY ADMIN*


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## Tezza33 (Jul 2, 2016)

It probably isn't a good idea to put the discount code in your post unless it is in the full members only section, good and useful post though


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## sak (Jul 2, 2016)

I didn't know that Alpha batteries did all makes of battery, I thought it was just their own make.


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## trevskoda (Jul 2, 2016)

Bosh s5 or verta silver which us nickle plates used in stop start cars 5 year warrenty as good as any so called leasure bats.
There under a new code these days.


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## maxi77 (Jul 2, 2016)

If you spend a lot of time of grid then the number of cycle the battery is rated for is important and these days Alpha do not quote that any more. Even more concerning is the fact they do not quote the discharge rate used to determine the battery capacity in many cases, and for some where they do the battery is based on the 100hr rate, pretty poor as the normal is the 20 hr rate


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## mick2444 (Jul 2, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Bosh s5 or verta silver which us nickle plates used in stop start cars 5 year warrenty as good as any so called leasure bats.
> There under a new code these days.



agreed, i fitted 2 x  85 amp varta silver starter batterys 8 months ago one next to starter battery one under seat 100 amp relay with 35mm square cable connecting leisure battery to starter battery, 16mm cable to one under seat. i have been off grid 3 days telly on all the time if weathers bad led lights charging laptops , phone ,tablets etc but i have only seen them run down to 12.5v. a 1 hour drive gets them back up to 13v which is their resting voltage for some reason. it says on there blurb they charge a lot faster. i dont know if they charge faster because of the thicker cable i used but i was considering solar panels before i got these batterys not going to bother now.


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## mick2444 (Jul 2, 2016)

*varta silver*



trevskoda said:


> Bosh s5 or verta silver which us nickle plates used in stop start cars 5 year warrenty as good as any so called leasure bats.
> There under a new code these days.


agreed,i fitted 2 x 85 amp varta silver starter battrys  as leisure battrys 8 months ago. one next to engine battery connected together through 100 amp durite relay using 35mm cable, the other under passenger seat using 16mm cable. we have been off grid 3 days telly on most of time if raining, charging laptop  ipad ,phones ,   led lights etc fridge on gas. the lowest i have seen them drop is 12.5v with digital multi meter the resting voltage is 13v the best thing about them is they charge really quick they say this in there sales blurb on them also ann caravans did a test and big write up on them singing there praises they dont sell batterys they sell and repair motor home chargers i think i would easily get 5 days or more with less use of telly plus they are charged up fully after 1 hour drive, that might be due to extra thick cables and the wizadry in the battery ? i was considering solar panels wont bother now


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## mick2444 (Jul 2, 2016)

posted twice thought the first post had dissapeared


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## OldJim (Jul 2, 2016)

The NCC battery scheme has already been discussed, if not here then certainly elsewhere on the net, its very suspicious that only the mega expensive AGM and Gell batteries are in the A class, why no lead acid, the Vartas mentioned have proved their worth with plenty of satisfied customers but yet aren't even listed in either B or C class.

All reeks of colusion.

For the extra cost of AGM and Gell they would have to last twice aslong as a lead acid and there is plenty of evidence out there that this is not the case, persoally stick with lead acid and the aforementioned vartas seem to be the best of the current range.


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## trevskoda (Jul 2, 2016)

hairydog said:


> Well, it is and it isn't! Basically, all batteries are the same: lead and acid. Some have the acid as a liquid, some as a gel. Some have lead plates designed to carry a large starting current, others are supposed to withstand discharging a little better. However, the standard "starter" batteries are generally much better value: more competition to keep prices down and you don't pay the "leisure" premium. Gel batteries and AGR batteries are only needed if you plan to turn them upside down.
> 
> The ideal battery is a real Deep Cycle battery, but they cost several times as much as "normal" batteries. And they're really only needed for crossing the Sahara or sailing round the world. Places where you can't get a replacement.
> 
> ...


Weight used to be the old measure but not any longer as the best are light for size.


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## mick2444 (Jul 2, 2016)

i dont think i will be off grid for more than 3 days max with out going for a drive. normally at a fishing spot, lake or river where i can park right on the bank. i know what you mean about the alternator only putting so much charge back into hab batterys then tapering off, but these vartas charge up quick may be because they havnt got below 12.5v yet. i would go down to 12.2v max then it would be longer to charge by alternator. when i get home i plug the van socket in, i have a 10 inch 16mm cable with crocodile clips on which i join the starter battery and hab battery together + to + so it float charges them all at 13.7v seems to work ok. really impressed with these vartas to the cr@p ive had before.


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## maxi77 (Jul 2, 2016)

OldJim said:


> The NCC battery scheme has already been discussed, if not here then certainly elsewhere on the net, its very suspicious that only the mega expensive AGM and Gell batteries are in the A class, why no lead acid, the Vartas mentioned have proved their worth with plenty of satisfied customers but yet aren't even listed in either B or C class.
> 
> All reeks of colusion.
> 
> For the extra cost of AGM and Gell they would have to last twice aslong as a lead acid and there is plenty of evidence out there that this is not the case, persoally stick with lead acid and the aforementioned vartas seem to be the best of the current range.



I think one of the problems with the NCC scheme is as far as I can see it is voluntary, and not based on random blind purchases though they at least do seem to use independent testing rather than just taking manufacturers specs. Equally they claim that their classification is based on capacity where it is reasonably clear that they really base their findings on the number of cycles the battery should achieve. 

I tend to agree that in terms of amps for pounds wet acid is best, and this is the suggestion from Sterling too. The big problem in selecting a battery from the many offered is that few declare the number of cycles to 50% they are supposed to be capable of. Another growing problem is batteries ah capacity being given without quoting the discharge rate, coupled with some manufacturers using the 100 hour rate rather than the old standard of the 20 hour rate. 

The other minefield is warranties, because just how do you prove the battery was not mistreated, by say discharges down to 10%


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## cdmoreear (Jul 4, 2016)

hairydog said:


> Sorry, but that simply is not the case. There have been no significant changes in physics that would make that possible.
> 
> There are better, lighter batteries, but they are Lithium Ion and completely different in many respects. Not a drop-in replacement at all.



Hi hairydog

You are bang on with Not a drop-in replacement at all.

Looked at the lithium-iron option there are a couple for sale on ebay.

2x new Victron Lithium 90Ah 12.8v Solar Batteries (LiFePO4) | eBay

Lithium iron, when compared with lead acid batteries, have advantages but a lot of disadvantages. 

First is the cost, they are a lot more expensive. Installation is a lot more complicated and requires specialist knowledge.  A lot of extra components are required (see list below and picture below) to protect the batteries, the vehicle wiring and alternator.

MPPT 100/30 is connected to your solar panel and the LFP-BMS battery.
BMS controller fitted to LFP-BMS battery.
BMS controller automatically protect battery by disconnecting loads via BP220.
BMS controller automatically protect battery by disconnecting the MPPT solar charger.
BMV702 battery monitor fitted to your LFP-BMS battery.
Inline battery isolator switch fitted to LFP-BMS battery.




My van '93 Rapido 962m is factory fitted with  battery coupler/separator.  This connects the engine battery at the same time as the auxiliary battery .  When the auxiliary battery reaches 13.6V recharging the engine battery begins.   When both batteries combined voltage is greater than 12.4 V they are coupled automatically.   This means my solar system or mains charger can recharge my starter battery.  No one could tell me how this would happen with lithium iron battery and control package they had specified. 

Roadpro sell a French made EVA lithium iron option with all the controls and components built in.  Very expensive.  Waiting for a reply from them regarding compatibility. 

So weighing up the options I can imagine sat in the van on top of a cliff in Portugal late November. Spent a lot of money earlier in year on lithium iron batteries and components. Something goes wrong with a component, don't know what it is or what to do and no professional help close by either.   Stuffed - should have stuck to lead acid - that would be her response. 

So there it is the answer.  KISS keep is simple stupid.  

Lead acid for me.


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## Beemer (Jul 4, 2016)

Just had to remove one of my 115Ah batteries, as it had the 'rotten egg smell', on removal the battery had 'blown' a cell, so it went to South Yorkshire Batteries in Sheffield, where I purchase 2 x 105Ah Bison batteries, recommended by them.
Bison - SYBS Group
So I will let you know how the yellow topped batteries fair over the next three weeks when they will be getting used.


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## AuldTam (Jul 4, 2016)

Really good information on batteries in this thread, it's a pity it will go off into the ether of old posts, wherever they go when they die.

Is it not possible for hairy dogs very useful information to be saved somewhere else on the site and won't disappear?


Personally, I always bought a leisure battery when I had a caravan and that was that. When I converted my Campervan I started asking questions about split charge relays, leisure batteries, etc. A mate who had experience with marine engines told me not to bother with leisure batteries if I was mainly using it for long weekends away, he told me to fit the exact same battery as the starter battery with a relay in between and that would work fine. Well 5 years down the line and he was correct I've never had a problem, I charge them both a couple of times a year with a mains charger but that's really all the maintenance I do.

Tam.


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## cdmoreear (Jul 6, 2016)

*Battery Replacement Update*

Well finally made a decision and gone for 2 x 12v Banner 135 AH Energy Bull Leisure battery (95901) Alpha batteries website prices £129.99.  Spoke to John and Wildcamping discount 15%.

Final price £220.00 for (2 x batteries) inclusive of VAT & Delivery.

ebay price for same eBay item number: 121340098429 (2 x batteries) £250.00

Roadpro website price £145.95 each.

So I reckon I have got a couple of good quality batteries and a great deal making me a happy wild camper who has just saved his membership fees for this year. 

Thanks Admin for negotiating discount and all those posters for their help and advice.


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## davef (Jul 6, 2016)

*Leisure or Deep Cycle*

I think starter and "leisure" batteries are basically the same thing. "Deep Cycle" batteries have a different construction and are unsuitable for engine starting. If the "Leisure" battery quotes a CCA - cold cranking ampage - its just a starter battery. Deep cycle is obviously better for the habitation battery.


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## maxi77 (Jul 6, 2016)

davef said:


> I think starter and "leisure" batteries are basically the same thing. "Deep Cycle" batteries have a different construction and are unsuitable for engine starting. If the "Leisure" battery quotes a CCA - cold cranking ampage - its just a starter battery. Deep cycle is obviously better for the habitation battery.



Proper leisure batteries are in fact a hybrid between starter type and deep cycle batteries. Having said that I feel sure some so called leisure batteries are little more than rebadged car starter batteries. A starter battery will not stand even a few discharges to 50% without severe loss of life. A decent leisure battery should last a couple of hundred such cycles and a good one some 500. Most leisure batteries do have a CCA capability, they were first intended for boats where batteries were used for both house and engine even when two batteries were fitted. Now many boats have an engine stater and 2 house batteries.


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## cdmoreear (Jul 6, 2016)

davef said:


> I think starter and "leisure" batteries are basically the same thing. "Deep Cycle" batteries have a different construction and are unsuitable for engine starting. If the "Leisure" battery quotes a CCA - cold cranking ampage - its just a starter battery. Deep cycle is obviously better for the habitation battery.



Hi Davef

Spec below from Alpha website and link is to some stuff I found on web http://www.bannerbatteryfinder.co.uk/system/files/32_promotion.pdf

So I figured these should do the job.

Product Specification
Brand: Banner
Voltage: 12V
Capacity (Ah): 135
Capacity (Ah): 135
Terminal Type: Standard Round (Type 1)
Terminal Layout: Positive on Right (Layout 0)
Height (mm): 230
Width (mm): 175
Length (mm): 345
Weight (kg): 28.0000
Construction: Lead Acid
Maintenance Free: Yes
Warranty (Years): 4
Calcium Technology: Yes
Deep Cycle: Yes
Sealed: No


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## Mick H (Jul 6, 2016)

hairydog said:


> If you connect a charger when at home, and only discharge for up to 3 days, I agree you don't need a solar panel. Though they do greatly extend the life of your batteries. I guess it depands how long you plan to keep the van.



Solar panels do NOT extend the life of batteries. The opposite is the case, because they don't provide a charge overnight, and so, can't give a 4 or 3 stage charge (which is recognized as the best way to re-charge).

I have never used Solar, on my van, and don't need to, but the leisure batteries are now 10 yrs old, and the starter battery, 11yrs old.

I have a Solar system on our house, so know all about Solar, and it's limitations. In that situation, I'm receiving money from the 'Feed In Tariff', so it is cost effective, but wouldn't be on my motorhome.


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## AuldTam (Jul 6, 2016)

maxi77 said:


> Proper leisure batteries are in fact a hybrid between starter type and deep cycle batteries. Having said that I feel sure some so called leisure batteries are little more than rebadged car starter batteries. A starter battery will not stand even a few discharges to 50% without severe loss of life. A decent leisure battery should last a couple of hundred such cycles and a good one some 500. Most leisure batteries do have a CCA capability, they were first intended for boats where batteries were used for both house and engine even when two batteries were fitted. Now many boats have an engine stater and 2 house batteries.



I was told by a marine engineer just to fit the same battery as the starter battery with a relay in between so it's being charged with the starter battery every time I drive. I use the van mostly at weekends and the aux battery powers all interior lights, water tap, usb phone chargers and maybe 2 or 3 hours of TV over the weekend for the last 5 years without issue, I don't have anything monitoring what's left in the aux battery.


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## trevskoda (Jul 6, 2016)

hairydog said:


> Sorry, but that simply is not the case. There have been no significant changes in physics that would make that possible.
> 
> There are better, lighter batteries, but they are Lithium Ion and completely different in many respects. Not a drop-in replacement at all.


Sorry thats the point i was trying to say just did not explain right.


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## Polar Bear (Jul 6, 2016)

AuldTam said:


> Really good information on batteries in this thread, it's a pity it will go off into the ether of old posts, wherever they go when they die.
> 
> Is it not possible for hairy dogs very useful information to be saved somewhere else on the site and won't disappear?
> 
> ...



Why not 'book mark' this thread?


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## AuldTam (Jul 6, 2016)

Polar Bear said:


> Why not 'book mark' this thread?



How to please


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## maxi77 (Jul 6, 2016)

AuldTam said:


> I was told by a marine engineer just to fit the same battery as the starter battery with a relay in between so it's being charged with the starter battery every time I drive. I use the van mostly at weekends and the aux battery powers all interior lights, water tap, usb phone chargers and maybe 2 or 3 hours of TV over the weekend for the last 5 years without issue, I don't have anything monitoring what's left in the aux battery.




There are a lot of old wife's tales and if you are lucky you get away with it. The construction of starter batteries and leisure batteries is different for good reasons. With relatively light use any battery will do but the harder you use it the better the battery has to be.


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## Polar Bear (Jul 6, 2016)

AuldTam said:


> How to please ��



I am using windows 10/ At the top of my screen is a bar that shows www  wildcamping.co.uk forums etc
to the right of this is a star, put the cursor on the star, left click, select or create folder, click on 'done'. You can then come back to this page at any time. Good luck


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## trevskoda (Jul 6, 2016)

Mick H said:


> Solar panels do NOT extend the life of batteries. The opposite is the case, because they don't provide a charge overnight, and so, can't give a 4 or 3 stage charge (which is recognized as the best way to re-charge).
> 
> I have never used Solar, on my van, and don't need to, but the leisure batteries are now 10 yrs old, and the starter battery, 11yrs old.
> 
> I have a Solar system on our house, so know all about Solar, and it's limitations. In that situation, I'm receiving money from the 'Feed In Tariff', so it is cost effective, but wouldn't be on my motorhome.



Mostly correct but solar will extend your time without having to start engine to recharge,but as you say for a short time around midday,also a lot of regulators are 4/5 stage smart chargers.


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## trevskoda (Jul 6, 2016)

maxi77 said:


> There are a lot of old wife's tales and if you are lucky you get away with it. The construction of starter batteries and leisure batteries is different for good reasons. With relatively light use any battery will do but the harder you use it the better the battery has to be.



Hence i said varta or bosh s5 as there used in start stop cars so big drain on them when in town or heavy traffic,and theres a 5 year warrenty that they will hold the voltage up.


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## trevskoda (Jul 6, 2016)

hairydog said:


> There are "ordinary" starter batteries, designed to be used to start engines but not to be discharged. Cheap to buy, easy to get and they can be charged fast.
> 
> There are deep cycle batteries, designed to provide much lower currents and cope with being discharged down to say 30% capacity without too much damage. The lead plates are thicker and have a slightly different surface texture (I think).  They're usually eye-wateringly expensive.
> 
> ...


The charging of these batterys does differ & so is the threshold voltage so vans with charge control units set to charge lead acid may not be compatable never mind the speed on which a current may be drawn or put back in.


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## maingate (Jul 6, 2016)

Mick H said:


> Solar panels do NOT extend the life of batteries. The opposite is the case, because they don't provide a charge overnight, and so, can't give a 4 or 3 stage charge (which is recognized as the best way to re-charge).
> 
> I have never used Solar, on my van, and don't need to, but the leisure batteries are now 10 yrs old, and the starter battery, 11yrs old.
> 
> I have a Solar system on our house, so know all about Solar, and it's limitations. In that situation, I'm receiving money from the 'Feed In Tariff', so it is cost effective, but wouldn't be on my motorhome.



I like solar because it limits deep discharges, which shorten battery life. I have a good quality solar controller, which is the recommended one for my charging system. I had my last van for 5 years (it came with 2 new 110 Ah Numax Leisure batteries) and they were as good as new on the day that I sold it. The engine battery was the original (11 years old) and I believe that its life was extended by the solar charging regime. But I emphasise that it was down to a top quality solar controller.


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## Mick H (Jul 7, 2016)

hairydog said:


> Utter and complete rubbish.
> 
> Lots of solar charge controllers are perfectly capable of giving a three or four stage charge. Just because the sun isn't shining doesn't mean the controller loses the plot.
> 
> Of course they vastly increase the battery life by keeping it trickle charged through every day. Running lead acid batteries down is what damages them. Solar panels help prevent that.



I respect that you are entitled to your opinion, and so am I.

The best way to maintain batteries in good condition, is with a strict charging regime.

That isn't possible, with Solar, because there is no guarantee of a constant power supply. Apart from no charge overnight, there are days, even weeks, during the year, that Solar produces very little charge.

If you were to rely on Solar, to give a recharge, when your batteries have been depleted, sulphation would take place. This would reduce the life of the batteries, and also reduce their usable capacity, which would almost certainly never be regained.

We need more battery power during the winter, when the days are short. Solar can't provide this. A SIMPLE LAW OF PHYSICS.

In the summer, I can last for days, even without moving, with no Solar power at all, and I have been motorhoming since 1980.

Also, Solar panels cost more, in terms of reduced fuel consumption, with their weight, as well as creating extra drag. To argue against this, would be to argue against the laws of physics.

Solar would NOT have given me any extra life from my batteries, which I repeat are 11 yrs starter, 10 yrs Leisure, and they are still going strong.


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## Mick H (Jul 7, 2016)

Just checked the output from the Solar panels on the house roof. They are only producing 85 watts, and this from a 3,500 watt system, which is angled towards the sun.
If I had a panel on the roof of my motorhome, it would probably be mounted flat, and in these cloudy conditions, in July, in the UK would NOT be putting out a decent charge, and that's the truth of it.


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## maxi77 (Jul 7, 2016)

Mick H said:


> I respect that you are entitled to your opinion, and so am I.
> 
> The best way to maintain batteries in good condition, is with a strict charging regime.
> 
> ...



On the other hand I experimented with a 5 watt panel first with a virtually dead battery which did actually chargeup to an extent over a week of varied Scottish weather and was still showing noticable charge some hours after sunset. Then an almost fully charged was connected up and it quite quickly came up to full charge. 

Yes solar is not 24 hour and not 365 days either but for much of the year it will provide at least enough power to counter self disharge and in the summer cover the power needs of say an alarm system. 

You can last long periods with alow input one of my boats had no engine charging and a 1/2 amp fletner rotor wind generator. I could last 10 days even with one of those mini black and white tellies. I carried a get you home battery to run the radio and instruments if the main battery (2 x 80 ah )  failed, never needed.


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## davef (Jul 8, 2016)

*Deep cycle battery*

I fitted one of these this spring, so too soon to tell how well it will last -
Hankook 100Ah Deep Cycle Leisure Battery- 550 Life Cycle - 4 Year Warranty: Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Outdoors
It seems to be a proper deep cycle battery at a reasonable price.


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## Beemer (Jul 8, 2016)

Mick H said:


> Just checked the output from the Solar panels on the house roof. They are only producing 85 watts, and this from a 3,500 watt system, which is angled towards the sun.
> If I had a panel on the roof of my motorhome, it would probably be mounted flat, and in these cloudy conditions, in July, in the UK would NOT be putting out a decent charge, and that's the truth of it.



I have found this thread very interesting, especially the solar panel argument, and thank all who have posted with their views.
I do not have the knowledge that you show Mick H, but it is difficult to believe that I am not getting a decent charge this month, when I can see it recorded on a voltmeter.  
I have a flat mounted, 100W solar panel on the roof of my motorhome, parked in a south facing garden.  I notice that the solar panel also tops up my vehicle battery which is useful as the motorhome gets used at least once every 4 weeks.
With the small knowledge/experience I have on solar panels, I would recommend fitting one.  The vehicle being an A class means it has the aerodynamics of a brick anyway, so will put up with the "panel drag".


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## Fazerloz (Jul 8, 2016)

hairydog said:


> There is nothing at all wrong with holding an opinion. However, sharing that opinion as an expression of fact when it is clearly incorrect is definitely wrong.
> Remember Michael Gove being dismissive of "experts" ? The experts were right: he was telling lies. People were stupid enough to believe him. Now see what a mess we're in.
> You claim to be an expert on how solar panels affect batteries because you have them on your roof. Well, whoopy-doo. They are wired to a grid tie inverter, with no batteries at all. So that's as relevant as being able to polish an ice cream van in your sleep.
> I'll give you a little hint: one of us studied Physics at university, has many decades experience of leisure batteries and many years experience of using solar panels with them. He knows what he is talking about. And then there is you.



How to win friends and influence people.:raofl::lol-049:


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## maingate (Jul 8, 2016)

Beemer said:


> I have found this thread very interesting, especially the solar panel argument, and thank all who have posted with their views.
> I do not have the knowledge that you show Mick H, but it is difficult to believe that I am not getting a decent charge this month, when I can see it recorded on a voltmeter.
> I have a flat mounted, 100W solar panel on the roof of my motorhome, parked in a south facing garden.  I notice that the solar panel also tops up my vehicle battery which is useful as the motorhome gets used at least once every 4 weeks.
> With the small knowledge/experience I have on solar panels, I would recommend fitting one.  The vehicle being an A class means it has the aerodynamics of a brick anyway, so will put up with the "panel drag".



You may be getting a low charge simply because your battery(ies) is/are fully charged already. You did think that your solar controller was faulty earlier. The best thing to do is put a multimeter across the battery terminals first. It may also be a case of one faulty battery dragging the good one down. One way to check for that is to disconnect them completely and check the voltage (after it has settled for an hour). Rig up a small 12 volt light and connect it to a battery for 5 hours or so. Recheck the voltage. Do the same with the other one (ensuring the time factor is equal and recheck the voltage. If one battery is poor, you will see a difference.

Regarding the effect of 'drag' caused by a roof mounted solar panel. It is nothing virtually. The amount of drag increases fourfold if the velocity (speed) is doubled. The cross sectional area of a motorhome is large the CSA of a flat solar panel is tiny. The roof is probably already cluttered with rooflights, air vents and TV aerials or Sat domes.

A solar panel needs to be raised slightly from the roof surface to have a cooling airflow, which helps efficiency. The hotter the panel gets results in a loss of efficiency. The flexible panels are different, they can be fitted flat to a surface but are less efficient anyway (at present but could improve in time).


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## Tezza33 (Jul 8, 2016)

maingate said:


> You may be getting a low charge simply because your battery(ies) is/are fully charged already.


I took mine down for the MOT earlier, the charge from the panels was minimal when I arrived but I had to sit and wait for the brake rollers to be free, it was warm so I put the 'fantastic fan' above the kitchen area on high to clear the air, within a minute my controller was showing 14.8A going in, after switching the fan off within a few minutes the charge rate dropped right down, I have 250W of solar panels controlled by a Schaudt LR1218 Solar Regulator with a Fox D1 meter, even in the Winter I got enough going in to make a difference


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## mick2444 (Jul 8, 2016)

double post


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## mick2444 (Jul 8, 2016)

*0*



Fazerloz said:


> How to win friends and influence people.:raofl::lol-049:



LOL, ya canna change the laws of physics jim im giving you every thing shes got !!! Dont panic scotty fire up the VARTA electron energizers, keep her steady at warp speed mr suloo::drive:


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## Deleted member 12051 (Jul 9, 2016)

I am travelling at minute at Grand Prix. No hook up as managed last year without it. With weather being cloudy my solar is obviously not topping up. My dilemma is... Battery reading is max on leisure. Plug cool box in via inverter.... Charges for half hour... Inverter beeps .. Switch off inverter.. Looks at battery reading.... Still saying full charge.
 Being a woman I have no idea what that means. I am on ferry to France on Tuesday. Will I need to get a new battery as I can't hang around. Not forgetting what type do I replace it with? This 110 battery is just over 2 years old. Any help will be greatly appreciated.


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## trevskoda (Jul 9, 2016)

Fazerloz said:


> How to win friends and influence people.:raofl::lol-049:



Well is is telling it as it is,facts dont always make friends but there still facts.


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## mick2444 (Jul 9, 2016)

rottytara2004 said:


> I am travelling at minute at Grand Prix. No hook up as managed last year without it. With weather being cloudy my solar is obviously not topping up. My dilemma is... Battery reading is max on leisure. Plug cool box in via inverter.... Charges for half hour... Inverter beeps .. Switch off inverter.. Looks at battery reading.... Still saying full charge.
> Being a woman I have no idea what that means. I am on ferry to France on Tuesday. Will I need to get a new battery as I can't hang around. Not forgetting what type do I replace it with? This 110 battery is just over 2 years old. Any help will be greatly appreciated.




VARTA Silver Dynamic 12V 110Ah Car Battery (020)   £95 delivred off ebay you wont be dissapointed its a starter battery but the best i have used as a leisure battery many people use the varta as a leisure, 


610 200 Varta Silver Dynamic Car Battery 12V 110Ah 020 (Short Code: I1) (Varta DIN: 610 402 092 )
£ 85.54 inc. VATPrice

£ 8.88 inc. VATStandard Delivery

  In Stock for Express Delivery. this is tanya batterys they do next day delivery 5 year warrenty


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## Fazerloz (Jul 9, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Well is is telling it as it is,facts dont always make friends but there still facts.



Nothing wrong with telling it as it is and facts are facts, but is there any need to be patronising and maybe to some, insulting.


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## Mick H (Jul 9, 2016)

hairydog said:


> I'll give you a little hint: one of us studied Physics at university, has many decades experience of leisure batteries and many years experience of using solar panels with them. He knows what he is talking about. And then there is you.



I too, could boast about my lifetime's knowledge, technical qualifications, and vast experience, but, will rise above your childish comments. 
The point is, your claim that Solar gives an increased life to batteries, is an opinion, NOT a fact, as are many of your other statements.


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## Obanboy666 (Jul 9, 2016)

hairydog said:


> There is nothing at all wrong with holding an opinion. However, sharing that opinion as an expression of fact when it is clearly incorrect is definitely wrong.
> 
> Remember Michael Gove being dismissive of "experts" ? The experts were right: he was telling lies. People were stupid enough to believe him. Now see what a mess we're in.
> 
> ...



Perhaps if you put some info in your profile as most of us do we would all know you were a professor of physics and an expert on everything relating to batteries and solar panels.


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## mick2444 (Jul 9, 2016)

double posted


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