# Solar panel on the bonnet



## Derekoak (Nov 12, 2020)

I have a microcamper based on a doblo xl. It has 160 w semi flexible solar on the roof.  That is ok in summer without driving for our use but with lower sun we must drive every day. The only large space left is the bonnet, due to a midi skylight. I think I could fit a 120w semiflexible on the bonnet, with a rear connection box cut into the bonnet, curved for and aft to the bonnet and fitted on strips of fore and aft putty, sides with stixall, that would allow some back ventilation. This is how the roof panels have been fitted.
     I have never seen this done. Is there a problem that I cannot forsee? Heat from the engine greater than Spanish summer sun?


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## Phantom (Nov 12, 2020)

Maybe a portable folding panel would be an easier option for more solar, though may still not meet your winter requirements.


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## Tookey (Nov 12, 2020)

Sun deflection into your eyes when driving possibly, unsure of bonnet angle


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## trevskoda (Nov 12, 2020)

Heat would kill it and sticking anything onto paint is madness, apart from the fact stick down panels are not as good as rigid and have a shorter life, folding stand alone panel would be best, make sure you are using a mppt regulator, and maybe add an extra battery if you can find room.


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## Mr and Mrs Tupcox (Nov 12, 2020)

Little fingers investigating .?


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## Tookey (Nov 12, 2020)

..........and big fingers removing


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## Mr and Mrs Tupcox (Nov 12, 2020)

We have seen pvc with panels hanging on the sliding door in full sun when parked up..
And removed when driving.


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## Derekoak (Nov 12, 2020)

Yes you can never have enough solar in some conditions,  even thinking like  "The Martian" . 
  I prefer to be self contained, to just drive away. Portable panels are not my first option, but thanks


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## jagmanx (Nov 12, 2020)

Folding suitcase type propped up inside behind the windscreen...vehicle suitably parked.


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## Derekoak (Nov 12, 2020)

I like that, as well as the bonnet one. We unroll an insulated black blind to cover the windscreen inside when parked in sun  ,usually facing south. we could add a solar panel to that somehow. We would are already doing that so adding it would be less bother.
 Still any opinions on the bonnet position?


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## harrow (Nov 12, 2020)

Derekoak said:


> I like that, as well as the bonnet one. We unroll an insulated black blind to cover the windscreen inside when parked in sun  ,usually facing south. we could add a solar panel to that somehow. We would are already doing that so adding it would be less bother.
> Still any opinions on the bonnet position?



Heat from the engine, increasing the bonnet temperature


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## Mr and Mrs Tupcox (Nov 12, 2020)

Any stone being thrown up from cars in front of you could be a problem..


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## witzend (Nov 12, 2020)

Bonnet sounds OK it'd wouldn't be facing the sun every where you stopped don't think heat would be a problem as when driving the air passing would keep it cool and keeping the sun off the bonnet would help cool the engine a little. Where ever you put it it could be stolen or damaged a portable one would need to be stored when not in use and you don't have a large van


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## st3v3 (Nov 12, 2020)

Put a panel over the top of the skylight maybe? I have


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## colinm (Nov 12, 2020)

I can see the attraction of a 'fit and forget' panel over a folder.
As others have posted sunlight reflecting off it might be a problem, I would be very wary of doing it due to this.
As for the heat, running the beads of adhesive front to rear so air can channel under whilst on the move should help, just make sure it is well held down so it doesn't get lifted by air pressure, my old semi flexible had bolt holes in each corner.


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## SquirrellCook (Nov 12, 2020)

Derekoak said:


> I have a microcamper based on a doblo xl. It has 160 w semi flexible solar on the roof.  That is ok in summer without driving for our use but with lower sun we must drive every day. The only large space left is the bonnet, due to a midi skylight. I think I could fit a 120w semiflexible on the bonnet, with a rear connection box cut into the bonnet, curved for and aft to the bonnet and fitted on strips of fore and aft putty, sides with stixall, that would allow some back ventilation. This is how the roof panels have been fitted.
> I have never seen this done. Is there a problem that I cannot forsee? Heat from the engine greater than Spanish summer sun?


I like the idea even with the potential problems.  But semiflexible panels generally don't like being flexed in two opposing directions.  I don't see heat being a problem as long as the underside of your bonnet is insulated.  Air gaps under semiflexible panels is silly, you need the panel at an even temperature to prevent micro cracking.  I think what you would need is a CIGS type panel that is adhesive backed.  Expensive and limited in the range of sizes.  As mentioned it will be directional and in view of tampers.  But then if someone is going to mess with your van they'll do it any ways.  Don't forget you'll need another mppt controller to get the best out of it.  Personally I'd be looking at hanging another panel on the side.


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## alwaysared (Nov 12, 2020)

trevskoda said:


> Heat would kill it and sticking anything onto paint is madness, apart from the fact stick down panels are not as good as rigid and have a shorter life, folding stand alone panel would be best, make sure you are using a mppt regulator, and maybe add an extra battery if you can find room.


I've been using flexible panels for years without problems, you just need to fit them right and just like the "heavier" rigid ones you only get what you pay for although a "budget" rigid one is easier to change when it goes belly up. Buy quality stuff and fit it right no matter your preference. My current ones consistently give near enough their rated watts in the summer months and the weight saving helps with the all important payload when you're fulltime. 
Screenshot taken on 22/06/2020 while running the fridge off the inverter just to try it, 4 x 150 watt flexible panels, the next day I ordered a fifth panel and fitted it after moving the Snipe over to make room for it 






Kind regards,
Del


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## molly 2 (Nov 12, 2020)

Tookey said:


> ..........and big fingers removing


Complete with paint  ,adhesive  softening with engine  heat ,releasing the panel  at 70 mph  on motorway.


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## mistericeman (Nov 12, 2020)

Be interesting to hear what your insurance company would view it.... 

Could have implications for pedestrian impact areas designed into the vehicle


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## Derekoak (Nov 12, 2020)

I am not an expert but if you lift the bonnet, Fiat have seen fit to install a plastic engine cover? Under and over this is fan ventilated. I cannot imagine, thinking about it, that engine heat can be worse than solar on my black car? I will carry out an experiment drive a good distance in full sun stop and feel the bonnet compared to other external car surfaces.
 I think the figured  (dimpled) plastic top cover of the panel is less reflective than the bonnet paint. I think that plastic would cope with a stone thrown by a vehicle better than my windscreen?.
 Little fingers would not harm themselves poking, as all the wires would be under the bonnet. I was not quick to see what big fingers were but yes theft is a little more likely except they will not get semi flexible off in a useable condition quickly. My 160watt of semiflexibles on the roof have lasted 3 years with no problem. You can flex a semi flexible as a gentle cylinder or a gentle cone, not 2 ways at once. My bonnet is nearly only curved fore and aft, if I only use the middle metre. Any difference the other way is taken up with butyl putty strips of different thicknesses.  Bolting the leading edge, (and trailing edge) down to stop aerodynamic lift and make theft harder is worth doing. 
I think butyl putty and black stixall have stood the test of time. I do not know of more heat resistant spacer/glues. I would really struggle to get a failed panel off if stixall was used other than on edges, where a knife can reach?
I have a problem with an over used battery after 3.5 years, but a larger lithium battery should solve it and give an effective 25% increase in solar area, due to better charging efficiency. If that is not enough I may add more solar, my preference is the bonnet.
     I like the light from the midi skylight so dont want to cover it. I might get a 50 watt thin panel alongside the skylight raised to top of skylight height to avoid shading but that is more difficult than the bonnet, or the moveable panel inside the windscreen, so that is my least best option.


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## Derekoak (Nov 12, 2020)

Ok yes pedestrian and cycle impact occured to me. I would not know how to deal with that, although a thin flexible (soft) component does not seem worse than a crumple zone bonnet, perhaps the front fixings need thinking about? I must check with my insurance company.


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## mistericeman (Nov 12, 2020)

Derekoak said:


> Ok yes pedestrian and cycle impact occured to me. I would not know how to deal with that, although a thin flexible (soft) component does not seem worse than a crumple zone bonnet, perhaps the front fixings need thinking about? I must check with my insurance company.



I suspect that in reality it would make little real life difference.... 

The issue could be that there will be little information regarding the modification out there AND insurance companies don't like unquantifiable risks


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## Derekoak (Nov 12, 2020)

Concerning pedestrian impact some 4x4 have bull bars on the front. I do not think there is a law that cars should be soft at the front?


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## colinm (Nov 12, 2020)

AFAIK bull bars require type approval, having sharp edges is a MOT failure.


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## mistericeman (Nov 12, 2020)

Derekoak said:


> Concerning pedestrian impact some 4x4 have bull bars on the front. I do not think there is a law that cars should be soft at the front?



AFAICR manufacturer fitted bull bars are required to be none injuring to pedestrians.... 
Fitting aftearket 'hard' bull bars isn't illegal in itself... 

HOWEVER hitting a pedestrian with a 'hard' (or for that matter any after market items) bull bar that you haven't disclosed fully to your insurance company can end in a world of pain for the insured.... 

I'm not saying don't do it.... I'm just saying only your insurance company can decide whether or not they are OK with it.


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## mistericeman (Nov 12, 2020)

From the. Gov site....


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## RogerV (Nov 12, 2020)

Derekoak said:


> I have a microcamper based on a doblo xl. It has 160 w semi flexible solar on the roof.  That is ok in summer without driving for our use but with lower sun we must drive every day. The only large space left is the bonnet, due to a midi skylight. I think I could fit a 120w semiflexible on the bonnet, with a rear connection box cut into the bonnet, curved for and aft to the bonnet and fitted on strips of fore and aft putty, sides with stixall, that would allow some back ventilation. This is how the roof panels have been fitted.
> I have never seen this done. Is there a problem that I cannot forsee? Heat from the engine greater than Spanish summer sun?


Eco Worthy do a folding 120 w panel with controller and cables that have clips for the battery terminals. It's in canvas case with a pocket for the cables. 

I've just bought one but haven't used it yet so can't offer an opinion. I got it from Amazon although I think it's available elsewhere.


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## Phantom (Nov 12, 2020)

I guess it's so easy to get hung up with going down the larger solar route in winter, but I'm just not convinced that it's the best way.
For example: My 120w solar panel is curently making an average of 4.16Ah/day but a 25 minute drive (or just idling the engine) would make the same. And fitting a 30A B2B unit would make the same in less than 8 1/2 minutes, and pro rata. So why over obsess about solar in winter? If it serves you right in summer when it's optimal then surely there are more feasible ways to create power in winter. Just my own conclusion, but each to their own!


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## Silver sprinter (Nov 13, 2020)

Derekoak said:


> Ok yes pedestrian and cycle impact occured to me. I would not know how to deal with that, although a thin flexible (soft) component does not seem worse than a crumple zone bonnet, perhaps the front fixings need thinking about? I must check with my insurance company.


Could the clue  be what you have posted, thin flexible (soft)  stay on a bonnet when driving  at whatever speed, and not get damaged, good luck and keep us posted


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## molly 2 (Nov 13, 2020)

I asked my insurance company about  fitting solar panels , the reply was  not a problem if professionaly  fitted .


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## mfw (Nov 13, 2020)

Would of thought the best option would be roofrack bars with a sliding mechanism for panel and maybe a way to adjust solar panel angle couple of hinges maybe - not going to need roof vent open while driving and it wont matter if you covered part of the panel you already have if you are travelling - it would be out the way and just slid and adjusted to position you wanted when parked up


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## Mr and Mrs Tupcox (Nov 13, 2020)

Can you not mount a panel on a bike rack on rear of van just for winter then removed in summer if not needed.


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## Derekoak (Nov 13, 2020)

Silver sprinter said:


> Could the clue  be what you have posted, thin flexible (soft)  stay on a bonnet when driving  at whatever speed, and not get damaged, good luck and keep us posted


I have had similar panels, similarly curved, similarly fitted, on the leading edge of the roof for more than 3 years. I think it can be done.


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## Derekoak (Nov 13, 2020)

Phantom said:


> I guess it's so easy to get hung up with going down the larger solar route in winter, but I'm just not convinced that it's the best way.
> For example: My 120w solar panel is curently making an average of 4.16Ah/day but a 25 minute drive (or just idling the engine) would make the same. And fitting a 30A B2B unit would make the same in less than 8 1/2 minutes, and pro rata. So why over obsess about solar in winter? If it serves you right in summer when it's optimal then surely there are more feasible ways to create power in winter. Just my own conclusion, but each to their own!


You are right. But it so much depends on who's winter and what your habits are. We are in Valencia area. If we travel a small distance every day as we usually do,  there would probably be no problem.  With Covid restrictions were are keeping out of the way, extending our time between shops, and staying put in remote places away from buildings and people, more. So the problem. I think the first step is a lithium battery.  As you say with our 30 amp b2b and a lithium battery the drive or idle time should be reduced by a lot for 2 reasons I think. First the charging efficiency will work for the alternator like it does for solar and 2nd lithium does not need hardly any absorption phase,  so if the lithium setting is efficient it should charge at near maximum for much longer? I hope if that is wrong someone will tell me. like I was thinking beyond that in case more was needed. Basically the fridge must be kept running, more important as we are shopping less frequently.


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## jagmanx (Nov 13, 2020)

My uninformed view is that there must be better solutions.
You have suggested Lithium battery. Yes
another portable outside panel woud be cheap and you could position it and angle it for maximim benefit
Dare I suggest a Genny ?


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## trevskoda (Nov 13, 2020)

molly 2 said:


> I asked my insurance company about  fitting solar panels , the reply was  not a problem if professionaly  fitted .


Depends on what you could call a professonal, never seen a certificated one yet.


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## molly 2 (Nov 13, 2020)

trevskoda said:


> Depends on what you could call a professonal, never seen a certificated one yet.


My take would  a be somone giving a genuine  receipt


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## molly 2 (Nov 13, 2020)

I have a 100 w portable  panel  and a 100w fixed  ,the output from the  portable  is much greater  in the low sun ,


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## Markd (Nov 15, 2020)

Got to think that B2B and running the engine is most sensible for winter if summer is ok.


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## SquirrellCook (Nov 15, 2020)

Markd said:


> Got to think that B2B and running the engine is most sensible for winter if summer is ok.


Running your engine on idle just to charge batteries is environmentally unfriendly. Bad for your engine, and unpleasant for anyone around you.
That said if you are charging lithium batteries, they pull a high current until nearly fully charged. So may not need hours of running.  Lead acid batteries demand drops of the more they are charged, hence the long absorption stage.  
In an emergency I would do this, but not as common practice.


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## Markd (Nov 15, 2020)

As others have said solar harvest in winter is very low. Engine wouldn't be running very long to match the solar harvest especially with B2B bumping the voltage up.
I don't think a bit of idling will do a modern engine much harm - just think of all the idling city commuters do.

@Derekoak - As a matter of interest what is your daily electric consumption?


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## Derekoak (Nov 15, 2020)

Markd said:


> As others have said solar harvest in winter is very low. Engine wouldn't be running very long to match the solar harvest especially with B2B bumping the voltage up.
> I don't think a bit of idling will do a modern engine much harm - just think of all the idling city commuters do.
> 
> @Derekoak - As a matter of interest what is your daily electric consumption?


At the moment we are facing south looking to park with clear southerly view and occasionally idling the engine. We dont like that because it is irritating and if there is no wind smelly. 
 Markd We have a vitrifrigo 70 litre fridge, time clocked off for 7 night hours, led strip lights and recharging 2 phones and 2 x 10 inch tablets, sometimes (twice a week) a 19inch lcd 12v television for an hour. The propex has hardly been used, the 170w wand blender 3 minutes total in 6 weeks


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## caledonia (Nov 15, 2020)

Do you think it would be more efficient to just leave your fridge on?


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## Derekoak (Nov 15, 2020)

It is off because quiet at night is important but surely concentrating use is more efficient. There may not be much in it but clocking off from 9 to 1 and 2 to 6 must help a little


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## vintageb3 (Nov 15, 2020)

Online, I saw a T5 with an external screen cover fitted and 2 x flexible panels bonded to the cover. It was neat.


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## vintageb3 (Nov 15, 2020)

Found a pic...


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## vintageb3 (Nov 15, 2020)

And a link: https://www.solara.eu/products/solar-modules-mobile-series/


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## Derekoak (Nov 16, 2020)

Trouble with an external screen cover with a value of 700 € is it is easily nickable?


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## mfw (Nov 16, 2020)

Derekoak said:


> Trouble with an external screen cover with a value of 700 € is it is easily nickable?


Anything is nickable to determined thief only got to look at bikes that get stolen when locked on bike racks and probably metal shears or scissors could remove that in seconds unless you remember to pack away every evening or daytime if you go out parked in isolated spot


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## Tookey (Nov 16, 2020)




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## vintageb3 (Nov 16, 2020)

Derekoak said:


> Trouble with an external screen cover with a value of 700 € is it is easily nickable?


Sure...I didn’t say they couldn’t be nicked. I said they looked neat...as in tidy. My thoughts on the issue are that you don’t need the panels if you are driving as you would be charging the battery at that point, so you could put the cover on when stopped or hang it from the side of the van if you are not facing into the sun. I wouldn’t spend €700 on that cover. The OP suggests he has a cover, so two 50w panels can be added to that cover. Some security could be added if thought is given to the task.


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## mistericeman (Nov 16, 2020)

Just bolt one of these on....


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## vintageb3 (Nov 16, 2020)

Last year in Germany I saw a car trailer that had 4 x 100W standard panels fixed on the bed. The tyres/wheels missed the panels driving on and off. When the car was removed, the array was available to use. When I saw the rig, the motorhome was parked on the main road, and the trailer was parked in a car park behind bushes at 90degrees and a cable run between the two. Clever in one respect, but I did think some kid could have easily run his bike up onto the trailer. Maybe flexible would be better in that case.


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## Nabsim (Nov 16, 2020)

Markd said:


> As others have said solar harvest in winter is very low. Engine wouldn't be running very long to match the solar harvest especially with B2B bumping the voltage up.
> I don't think a bit of idling will do a modern engine much harm - just think of all the idling city commuters do.
> 
> @Derekoak - As a matter of interest what is your daily electric consumption?


I asked a friend who is a motor mechanic about this. After telling him my van was based on a T1N he advised me against idling the engine to generate power. I dont have an ear valve fitted so thought it would be okay. The answer was if I needed to run the engine it should be kept above 1200rpm, this meant sitting in the drivers seat with foot on the pedal. 
I did have to do this year before last when i go snowed in for 8 days and before i bought my genny. I mainly kept the revs above 1200 as advised but when I came to move from where i was parked you should have seen the smoke from the exhaust. Took it for a run for 10 - 15 minutes and smoke cleared. I assume that it was unburnt fuel so what will that do to the cat?
It costs me around a fiver a week running my generator or £1 a day if I dont move and no solar. Much better option to my mind but you do need space to store genny and a can of fuel.


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## Nabsim (Nov 16, 2020)

One thing that may play a part in this, Construction & Use regs. I know we do have a couple of folks on here that are up to date on these so maybe they can advise if it is okay to fit solar panels on a bonnet. Its years now since i have read the regs


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## alwaysared (Nov 16, 2020)

Nabsim said:


> I asked a friend who is a motor mechanic about this. After telling him my van was based on a T1N he advised me against idling the engine to generate power. I dont have an ear valve fitted so thought it would be okay. The answer was if I needed to run the engine it should be kept above 1200rpm, this meant sitting in the drivers seat with foot on the pedal.
> I did have to do this year before last when i go snowed in for 8 days and before i bought my genny. I mainly kept the revs above 1200 as advised but when I came to move from where i was parked you should have seen the smoke from the exhaust. Took it for a run for 10 - 15 minutes and smoke cleared. I assume that it was unburnt fuel so what will that do to the cat?
> It costs me around a fiver a week running my generator or £1 a day if I dont move and no solar. Much better option to my mind but you do need space to store genny and a can of fuel.


What output is your Genny? How long do you have to run it to get fully charged batteries?

Regards,
Del


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## Nabsim (Nov 16, 2020)

alwaysared said:


> What output is your Genny? How long do you have to run it to get fully charged batteries?
> 
> Regards,
> Del


I connect the genny to the 240v input on my van then use the two mains charger that are built in, I dont use the 12v charging function of the genny. I have a Hyundai 1Kw suitcase type genny, although a higher output would mean I can run bigger chargers this one means I can lift and carry it (and store it) easily, that may not be important for a lot of others.

How long I run it depends on how low my bank has gone but in worst conditions it may average at 2 hours a day although I normally run it every other day. It automatically adjusts the revs on the genny depending on how much power you are drawing, it usually runs the chargers and charges the dyson on eco at lowest sped.

I would like the Hyundai 2Kw model but as said previously I would struggle lifting and carrying it. The 1Kw weighs 14kg dry and only another couple of kgs or so toped up with oil and fuel. Everyone who has heard it has said it is quiet but as we know noise works differently to different people. I only run it during the day, usually when nobody is around

Edit: I have 200Ah lifepo4 battery bank and use approx 65amps every 24 hours


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## vintageb3 (Nov 16, 2020)

Nabsim said:


> I connect the genny to the 240v input on my van then use the two mains charger that are built in, I dont use the 12v charging function of the genny. I have a Hyundai 1Kw suitcase type genny, although a higher output would mean I can run bigger chargers this one means I can lift and carry it (and store it) easily, that may not be important for a lot of others.
> 
> How long I run it depends on how low my bank has gone but in worst conditions it may average at 2 hours a day although I normally run it every other day. It automatically adjusts the revs on the genny depending on how much power you are drawing, it usually runs the chargers and charges the dyson on eco at lowest sped.
> 
> ...


I was in Spain parked nose to nose with a van when the owner started up his Honda generator. I said to my father...”Jeez...is that what people complain about? You can hardly hear that thing run” I then popped out to the garage for something and the owner of the generator ran up to apologise about running the genny. I said told him I could hardly hear it. He told me his fridge had stopped working on gas so had to start the genny from time time as they had just been to the shops and filled the freezer. They were booked in to get the fridge looked at the next day. I told him to run it all night if he needed to it wouldn’t bother me.


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## vintageb3 (Nov 16, 2020)

Nabsim said:


> I asked a friend who is a motor mechanic about this. After telling him my van was based on a T1N he advised me against idling the engine to generate power. I dont have an ear valve fitted so thought it would be okay. The answer was if I needed to run the engine it should be kept above 1200rpm, this meant sitting in the drivers seat with foot on the pedal.
> I did have to do this year before last when i go snowed in for 8 days and before i bought my genny. I mainly kept the revs above 1200 as advised but when I came to move from where i was parked you should have seen the smoke from the exhaust. Took it for a run for 10 - 15 minutes and smoke cleared. I assume that it was unburnt fuel so what will that do to the cat?
> It costs me around a fiver a week running my generator or £1 a day if I dont move and no solar. Much better option to my mind but you do need space to store genny and a can of fuel.


I was told the same. Don’t idle the van. It kills the DPF.


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## SquirrellCook (Nov 16, 2020)

vintageb3 said:


> I was in Spain parked nose to nose with a van when the owner started up his Honda generator. I said to my father...”Jeez...is that what people complain about? You can hardly hear that thing run” I then popped out to the garage for something and the owner of the generator ran up to apologise about running the genny. I said told him I could hardly hear it. He told me his fridge had stopped working on gas so had to start the genny from time time as they had just been to the shops and filled the freezer. They were booked in to get the fridge looked at the next day. I told him to run it all night if he needed to it wouldn’t bother me.


My silent generator isn't too bad with a very small load.  Take it to it's limits and it's anything but silent.


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## trevskoda (Nov 16, 2020)

Markd said:


> As others have said solar harvest in winter is very low. Engine wouldn't be running very long to match the solar harvest especially with B2B bumping the voltage up.
> I don't think a bit of idling will do a modern engine much harm - just think of all the idling city commuters do.
> 
> @Derekoak - As a matter of interest what is your daily electric consumption?


Any city cars i worked on or traded were knackered at 35000 miles, taxi or high speed motorway engines went round the clock many times, the sump when removed or rocker cover tells the story.


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## trevskoda (Nov 16, 2020)

Nabsim said:


> I asked a friend who is a motor mechanic about this. After telling him my van was based on a T1N he advised me against idling the engine to generate power. I dont have an ear valve fitted so thought it would be okay. The answer was if I needed to run the engine it should be kept above 1200rpm, this meant sitting in the drivers seat with foot on the pedal.
> I did have to do this year before last when i go snowed in for 8 days and before i bought my genny. I mainly kept the revs above 1200 as advised but when I came to move from where i was parked you should have seen the smoke from the exhaust. Took it for a run for 10 - 15 minutes and smoke cleared. I assume that it was unburnt fuel so what will that do to the cat?
> It costs me around a fiver a week running my generator or £1 a day if I dont move and no solar. Much better option to my mind but you do need space to store genny and a can of fuel.


Even doing as he said is incorrect, why, well the rings do not get forced out onto the bore as they would when under a load, hence the oil which bypassed and burned of when you moved, doing this all the time leads to an oil burning engine with a low compression, this is a problem with city cars or ones driven on school runs by the ladies, sorry girls it a fact.


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## mfw (Nov 16, 2020)

Trouble at the moment is you cant really go anywhere to get engine warm enough to remove/burn the crud which builds up which is why commercial vehicles get high mileages and dont wear too much - 50 mile trip has only just started to warm engine up in my view - and i've not been further than 10 mls from home since mid april


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## Nabsim (Nov 17, 2020)

trevskoda said:


> Even doing as he said is incorrect, why, well the rings do not get forced out onto the bore as they would when under a load, hence the oil which bypassed and burned of when you moved, doing this all the time leads to an oil burning engine with a low compression, this is a problem with city cars or ones driven on school runs by the ladies, sorry girls it a fact.


His answer was advised me not to do it Trev, he said if I needed to then keep revs up 

I know lots of folks do run engine for power and if they are happy that’s fine, not for me though


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## alwaysared (Nov 17, 2020)

Nabsim said:


> I connect the genny to the 240v input on my van then use the two mains charger that are built in, I dont use the 12v charging function of the genny. I have a Hyundai 1Kw suitcase type genny, although a higher output would mean I can run bigger chargers this one means I can lift and carry it (and store it) easily, that may not be important for a lot of others.
> 
> How long I run it depends on how low my bank has gone but in worst conditions it may average at 2 hours a day although I normally run it every other day. It automatically adjusts the revs on the genny depending on how much power you are drawing, it usually runs the chargers and charges the dyson on eco at lowest sped.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the information, the problem with doing it like that for me is I have a a Victron Inverter/Charger and the charger is 120amps   and would need a larger genny?

Regards,
Del


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## trevskoda (Nov 17, 2020)

Nabsim said:


> His answer was advised me not to do it Trev, he said if I needed to then keep revs up
> 
> I know lots of folks do run engine for power and if they are happy that’s fine, not for me though


Yep but its the load more than reves, you are correct not to do it, problem is city cars have to, hence gummed up knackered donkeys at low milages.


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