# Help , 1994 hyma relay



## Nunny666 (May 14, 2014)

Hi all , newbie here , can anyone inform me as to where the split charge / fridge relay is on 1994 fiat ducato Hymer b534 , or if likely a fuse too where it us also likely to be , as power would be from alternator I think , it's not in the charger on board as this is just a basic la 110 charger , thanks in advance , nunny


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## The Grand Wanderer (May 14, 2014)

*Greetings*



Nunny666 said:


> Hi all , newbie here , can anyone inform me as to where the split charge / fridge relay is on 1994 fiat ducato Hymer b534 , or if likely a fuse too where it us also likely to be , as power would be from alternator I think , it's not in the charger on board as this is just a basic la 110 charger , thanks in advance , nunny



Greetings and welcome to this wonderful forum.

I would expect that you have an elektroblock fitted in your van and that inside it is the split charge/fridge relays. You do surprise me in that you state that you have a separate charger on board because the elektroblock also contains a mains charger. Fuses for all habitation appliances are on the elektroblock too. If you can find your elektroblock make a note of the model number then when you become a full member PM me with your email address and I will send you a PDF file in English for it.
regards,
Wanderer


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## Nunny666 (May 14, 2014)

Sorry I prob didn't word correct yes I have an elektroblock on board charger which is la 110 , but this is only a charger no relays inside according to a and n , so the relay for the fridge split charge is somewhere else rather than inside the electro lock , this was their reply via email 
Hello the LA110 is just a charger unit. See a auto electrician to trace fault.

Kind regards,


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## Nunny666 (May 14, 2014)

And thankyou very much for replying much appreciated


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## Burtie (May 14, 2014)

If your motorhome happens to be the older shape same as the talbot express
Depending where the vehicle battery is mine used to be under the bonnet next
To that battery


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## Nunny666 (May 14, 2014)

Thanks burtie this is the shape if mine buddy


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## The Grand Wanderer (May 14, 2014)

Many thanks for the clarification. As Burtie says you will probably find both the split-charge and the fridge relays under the bonnet perhaps behind a cover but certainly near the battery.


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## Nunny666 (May 14, 2014)

That's great, thanks everyone for your help with this , I did notice a grey box above the battery when removed cover it just looked like a circuit board , and at side of the grey box was a black box , took cover off that and it just  looked like battery terminal connectors , shall go have another look in 5 min , thanks again appreciated guys


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## Nunny666 (May 14, 2014)

This is what is wrote in grey box cover above battery , inside is a circuit board


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## Burtie (May 14, 2014)

Nice looking motorhome but I don't think I would like to guess on that apart from the relay being under the bonnet but I think it would be a better option to trace the wires from the fridge


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## Nunny666 (May 14, 2014)

This is what's under that grey box folks


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## Nunny666 (May 14, 2014)

This black box is next to grey box just above battery


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## Nunny666 (May 14, 2014)

Which looks to be some sort of junction / connector box to me


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## Nunny666 (May 14, 2014)

Thanks for the comments buddy , I love this motorhome, and am learning all the time , managed to get hold of a good condition one , once I get this little problem sorted , lol , ime used to playing about with lambrettas , but will get hang if it


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## Nunny666 (May 14, 2014)

Found what the grey bitron video box does and its nothing to do with my relay ime trying to find 
As I now understand it there are two starting scenarios above zero deg / below zero deg and this cross over point could be plus or minus three or four deg. 

The very cold start system is controlled by a Bitron Video unit a grey box usually mounted above the battery. This controls a flame glowplug ( different to a normal glowplug ) and a solenoid both situated on top of the inlet manifold. The solenoid is used to inject diesel onto the flame glowplug, a description of the flame start plug can be found here. 


For above zero deg the flame glow plug is not used, the light will just flick on for a fraction of a second when you turn on the ignition and the engine relies on fast turn over, good compression and good atomisation to start, a worn engine, faulty starter motor, bad battery or clogged injectors will make it harder to start. 

For below zero the glow plug light will come on and if you wait long enough ( about 15 secs) before cranking the engine the light starts to flash and you can here the relay clicking in the control box, this I believe is to operate the solenoid, each time squirting a small amount of diesel onto the flame glowplug, igniting the fuel which then drips burning into the engine helping it to start. In very low temperatures (-10) this flashing carries on for about half a minute whilst the engine is running. 

During the initial start and for 2 or 3 mins whilst driving off, a lot of smoke will come from the exhaust as the engine burns off this excess diesel.


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## Nunny666 (May 15, 2014)

Looking at it their is a 3 amp fuse off the alternator which protects both the fridge relay and split charge relay , this is of the vullet type thought and looks intact , it could be the connection on this wire that is dodgy as I have read reports about it , so maybe that's worth changing , either soldering or new type connector, will follow wires in more detail tonight when not as dark


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## Nunny666 (May 15, 2014)

Think these are the relays in question ime looking for , can I ask how dobyou test a relays working thanks


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## Nunny666 (May 16, 2014)

Right just to help any others who have a 1994 fiat Ducato hyma b534 , the fridge and split charge relays are not in the blue on board charger this is just a standard charge unit on the la model , the relays are located to the left hand side behind the bullet fuses , along with an inline fuse and holder


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## Nunny666 (May 16, 2014)

My inline fuse holder was melted its git a 20 amp eating and mine had a 30 -amp fuse in it , which prob nakerd the relays too 



Just want people to know where the relays and fuses actually are saves a lot if hassle


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## Nunny666 (May 17, 2014)

Celebrated too early lol , took the relays to auto electrical place , they tested them , and said seem fine , ok I thought could be intermittent , so bought two new aswell , also new in line fuse holder , but the problem is still their , so here I go again lol
Share


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## The Grand Wanderer (May 18, 2014)

Nunny666 said:


> Celebrated too early lol , took the relays to auto electrical place , they tested them , and said seem fine , ok I thought could be intermittent , so bought two new aswell , also new in line fuse holder , but the problem is still their , so here I go again lol
> Share



When a fuse holder melts like that it is usually because there is resistance  (resistance causes heat) in the circuit, often as not caused by either tarnished or poorly fitting connectors. Sometimes it is worth just taking every one apart and giving it a good clean. One connection often ignored is the earth strap from body to chassis, and chassis to battery/batteries.


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## Nunny666 (May 18, 2014)

Sorted it at long last , whoop whoop , it was a plastic connector which feeds relay from alternator , looked fine , but removed it , and soldered wires , hey presto , fridge now works as should on 12 v


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## Nunny666 (May 18, 2014)

Sorry yes , my fridge was not working on gas or 240 v but light came on for 12 v when engine running, so I fit a second hand fridge , which worked on 240 v and gas , but could not get the 12 v to work with engine running , which was weird as that worked on last fridge lol , traced problem as above buddy , now works on 12 v with engine running , 240 volt mains , gas ,


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## Nunny666 (May 18, 2014)

Thanks for everyone's input appreciated , shall be checking earth straps too now , cheers


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## Nunny666 (May 19, 2014)

When pushing the fuse box back into its opening I noticed the metal box touch the metal frame if vehicle and it sparked , is this down to a bad earth somewhere ,or a reverse connection ? ?? Because to me it looked a fire hazard , I notice that the volt meter has been showing a constant drain in it since I bought the Motorhome , but one if the soldered connectors is off at the top if volt meter , am I looking for bad earth ? Thanks again , this could be why that fuse holder melted I suppose ,as grand wanderer said


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## Nunny666 (May 19, 2014)

Cheers for the info , I will check when I finish work this evening ,


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## Nunny666 (May 19, 2014)

The circuit with the melted fuse holder just looped from one connection to anither inside the fuse / relay box , if I pull the fuse from its holder I notice the leisure battery does not charge , when testing with a multi meter


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## Nunny666 (May 19, 2014)

Yes the fuses in the fuse box are if the bullet type, apart from the loop which is spade type , learning all the time as I go , I like to do my best at knowing how it all works , so if anything happens I may be able to sort , think this comes with years if riding old lambretta scooters up and down the uk and Europe lol, shall give everything a good clean


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## Nunny666 (May 19, 2014)

Well for some reason the whole of the metal fuse box is live , yet I can't see any bare wires or acquire that's out if place ?? If I put a wire from earth on battery and touch chassis I get no sparks , if I do same but touch metal fuse box I get sparks , plus ime getting a reading on metal fuse box if I touch thàt with one multi meter probe and other to chassis I get a reading indicating box is live


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## Nunny666 (May 19, 2014)

Yes ignition off buddy , if I connect thar fuse box tonthe chassis and theirs a fault tho will that make the chassis live ?


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## Nunny666 (May 19, 2014)

If the box relies on the screws against the chassis , surleyvit shouldn't spark when a negative cable from leisure battery is Tempory touched against the fuse box ? Or am I way wrong, thànks for input and help


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## Nunny666 (May 19, 2014)

Hi David , yes the fuse box is out if position , battery leads connected , so when I go to thread the fuse box back into its position , when it touches the chassis while doing this it sparks like crazy , is this normal then ? With multi meter the reading on metal fuse box is 13 amps plus ,


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## Nunny666 (May 19, 2014)

Sorry I am not the best at wording things buddy


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## Nunny666 (May 20, 2014)

Hi my vehicle is a fiat hyma b534 1994 , my problem is that when I had to pull fuse / relay box out from down by drivers side (holds the bullet fuses )I noticed thst the metal part of fuse box seems live , I get sparks when it touches chassis , exact same happens with 12 v isolator off , any suggestions or help appreciated 
The problem must be inside the fuse box ,on one of connections, or a live is touching the box somewhere ?? At a loss


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## Nunny666 (May 20, 2014)

Hi David yep it does buddy no power to appliances lights etc when isolated


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## Nunny666 (May 20, 2014)

Think I understand /If I was to get some cable and attach one end to negative terminal on battery, then touch chassis with other end no spark , but if I did same with the fuse box, and touch it with other end if cable I would get sparks (with fuse box out ) so if I then clean chassis and bolt fuse box back , once in position it won't spark as it is grounded to chassis / correct ??


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## Nunny666 (May 20, 2014)

Thanks took some getting their for me , but understand more now , thanks to your input cheers


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## Nunny666 (May 20, 2014)

The only thing I am struggling with now is how it gets a good connection to chassis as the part of box screws go through is plastic ?


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## Nunny666 (May 20, 2014)

So interesting .connected cable from box to chassis to test , cable set on fire ??


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## Nunny666 (May 20, 2014)

Lol yep buddy , so it's not meant to touch the chassis , but ime concerned if driving down road and it does touch something and causes a spark it will set on fire , so out if window is getting a good negative connection to chassis lol , avoid at all cost.


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## Nunny666 (May 20, 2014)

Why have the outer box metal at all and not all plastic / be a lot safer wouldn't it


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## Nunny666 (May 20, 2014)

So the box is either not designed to touch the chassis at all , ( if that's the case why not use plastic altogether and no metal , be a lot safer , or do I have a wire thats wrong inside fuse box that's making the box live when it should be opposite , the box actually screws through plastic , so no metal will touch chassis , even the screws won't , maybe this is just how the box is ??


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## Nunny666 (May 20, 2014)

Cheers David , I think old hymas are pretty weird in the fact that the leisure battery black is the live , brown us n , but under the bonnet the plus is red minus is brown , that's how mine is wired David cheers


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## Nunny666 (May 20, 2014)

David I think I have found problem buddy I removed the block that connects all the wires in the fuse box , on one of the live wire bolts that the cables connect , it is stuck up and touching the metal housing , it has been replaced by someone at some point and dosnt fit in the recess like the rest , had tape on that rubbed through , thus making box live instead of neg , cheers for input let you know how it goes , will be making full member soon too


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## Nunny666 (May 20, 2014)

Thanks for that , now onto why all of a sudden my water pump has started to run continuous , I have micro switched taps , so ime hoping it's a wire come off or faulty micro switch , it seems the wires going to the pump in the water tank are live , another weird one as it didn't used to do it , one thing ime getting to know my hyma  , ha ha


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## Tezza33 (May 20, 2014)

I love this thread and wished you were near Castle Donington, I would love to help with this


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## Nunny666 (May 20, 2014)

Thanks , it's all new to me but loving the learning buddy , I wish I was near ya too , lol , my old boss told me it's not what you know it's where to find out , then remember , this site rocks , some great people here


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## Nunny666 (May 21, 2014)

That's great thanks for the advice , defo going to lol into doing same , cheers


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## Nunny666 (May 21, 2014)

I notice that the brown and blue wires that go to feed my pump are perm live , is this right and is it the micro switch that interrupts this live feed to pump ? In order to stop pump or start it ?thanks in advance , or should I not have perm live  wires feeding pump ?


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## Nunny666 (May 21, 2014)

One more thing , if I install the whale in the pump supply pipe , I take it that the inline whale unit will have a Feed to the pump , and also a feed to my red and brown positive and negative cables that are feeding pump at mo ?


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## Nunny666 (May 21, 2014)

That's great buddy , that's very good if you , look forward to pics , the buzzing must of drove them insane lol , when not totally drowned out


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## Nunny666 (May 21, 2014)

That's a great help , thanks for taking tone to do photo and help , defo going to do this way , thanks again


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## st3v3 (May 21, 2014)

Sounds like fun and games!

I have a second hand pressure switch I bought and didn't need if you're interested?


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## Nunny666 (May 21, 2014)

Gods dam , ordered one and non ret valve before I checked back on here , now kicking myself , thanks for offer tho


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## Nunny666 (May 21, 2014)

At work at moment non ret valve was only cheap may come in as a spare , thànks again , shall check it out soon as home


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## Nunny666 (May 22, 2014)

Slightly off topic the connector block just above my heater in cupboard has brown and blue wires connected together , I don't think this is right or is it , the one you see I removed from the first spade connector nearest outside wall on my hyma b534


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## Nunny666 (May 22, 2014)




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## Nunny666 (May 22, 2014)

Maybe that's why u show a discharge on meter in hyma , I thought it was because one if the white wires had come out if the top of the meter


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## Nunny666 (May 22, 2014)

No. Non ret valve in my installation from a quick look , shall look again later , ime a plumber by trade lol


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## Nunny666 (May 22, 2014)

Cheers , the lambretta chop has a race tuned rb 225 engine in it very quick for a scooter , used to get some right looks blasting down the A1 from Huddersfield to colchester(slowing down only for speed cameras ) for the mersea island rally , lol, 500 mile round trip that , the hymas going to be way more comfy ,for breaks away  ha ha


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## The Grand Wanderer (May 22, 2014)

Modern cars have a "negative earth" electrical system. In this case the negative terminal of the battery is bonded to the vehicle's chassis (the metallic body work) and the positive terminal provides the "live" wire to the various systems. However, some older cars were built with a "positive earth" electrical system, in this case the positive terminal of the battery is bonded to the chassis and the negative terminal for the live. 

The term "earth" is used to indicate "chassis ground" in motor vehicles and is used commonly throughout the automotive industry.

Hymers are German built and like all German "vans" they use continental wiring colours. Brown = Earth and Blue = Live

Now as to whether brown and blue should be joined together depends on what circuit it is. For instance if the joined wires are for a switch then the live flows up the brown wire through the  switch and down the blue wire and then goes to the consumer.

The trick in this case is to carefully map where each pair of cables are going and what they do then you can decide if they should be joined or not.

Not trying to teach Grandma to suck eggs but it is worth trying to be clear about these things.

Regards,
Wanderer


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## Nunny666 (May 22, 2014)

Just looking at a hymer electrical plan hyma just emailed me , blue is defo plus and brown defo minus buddy , hang on ile  try post a pic


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## Tezza33 (May 22, 2014)

[No message]


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## Nunny666 (May 22, 2014)

Thanks again guys , think been in the building game its hard to get used to how vehicle and mh wiring is lol , ime sort of understanding it more


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## Nunny666 (May 22, 2014)

Thanks Tezza , yep mines same but just above my water heater is a junction box like spade connectors and that's where I have blue and brown joined onto the spades which concerned me .  Are yours same buddy ?


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## Nunny666 (May 22, 2014)




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## Nunny666 (May 22, 2014)

Cheers ile get a better one up tomorrow night buddy thanks again


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## Tezza33 (May 22, 2014)

Nunny666 said:


> Thanks Tezza , yep mines same but just above my water heater is a junction box like spade connectors and that's where I have blue and brown joined onto the spades which concerned me .  Are yours same buddy ?


I will have a look tomorrow, mine is a 2002 but as already stated they don't wire Hymers up to 'normal' standards, I have made up a long extension for my multi meter, I clip one end on a wire and then go to the fuse box to check where it comes from using the 'continuity setting' setting, I have then labelled any wires I needed to remember with names and whether it is pos or neg, I worked in the car trade before it became fashionable to go to an Auto Electrician and I am (or was lol) pretty good with any wiring problem but the first German car I worked on threw me and the Hymer is no different which is why I made up the long lead


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## Nunny666 (May 22, 2014)

Now that's a great idea , as knots of hidden wires are so hard to trace , when I put fridge in the blue positive wire confused me , that was first time I ever came across German wiring lol , learning all the time , I love working on it , tho really frustrating some times , but rewarding too


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