# Elddis split charge relay location?



## Canalsman (Dec 27, 2011)

I have a 1998/99 Elddis Autostratus, and I'm curious to know where the split charge relays and associated fuses are located.

Are they under the bonnet, and if so whereabouts?

Thanks 

Chris


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## oldish hippy (Dec 27, 2011)

follow the wires back from alternator as for fuses find fuse box pull one see what doesnt work or follow it back from lesuire battery to relay did spot this http://www.wildcamping.co.uk/forums/motorhome-problems/13839-elddis-autostratus.html


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## Canalsman (Dec 27, 2011)

Had a look at the van today, and the relays and fuses are situated immediately to the right of the starter battery, attached to the bulkhead ...

I am planning to make a minor alteration to the wiring here to make the leisure battery supply to the distribution panel in the habitation area permanently live. 

At the moment it's disconnected when the engine's running, so you can't use lighting etc, and the solar regulator thinks there's a problem because it no longer has a battery connected to charge.

I'll report back once the job's done.


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## oldish hippy (Dec 27, 2011)

so need to bypass relay that shuts power off  to distrubion panel when engine running iassume that what you got there


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## Canalsman (Dec 28, 2011)

Well today I used a Scotchlok connector to bridge the two wires of the split charge relay - I now have a permanent feed from the leisure battery to the distribution panel.

This means that the solar regulator is now connected all the time to the leisure battery, so preventing it from sounding an alarm after I started the engine and the battery 'went missing'.

I now have a new problem ... the regulator alarm sounds because it senses that the leisure battery is over voltage due to the alternator charging it!

I have sent an email to the eBay seller (it's the MPPT-200 that Techno100 suggested) asking for advice on how to get the alarm to stop sounding!!


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## Bernard Jones (Jan 17, 2012)

*Scotchlock Conectors*



Canalsman said:


> Well today I used a Scotchlok connector



I wired my first self build up with scotchlock connectors.  Never again.  It was plagued with bad connections.  After much bother I eventually went through them all and replaced them with cheeseblock connectors.  No more bother.
It may have been the wires were not the ideal diameter for scotchlock connectors, But I don't know how we can tell.


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## Canalsman (Jan 17, 2012)

Bernard Jones said:


> I wired my first self build up with scotchlock connectors.  Never again.  It was plagued with bad connections.  After much bother I eventually went through them all and replaced them with cheeseblock connectors.  No more bother.
> It may have been the wires were not the ideal diameter for scotchlock connectors, But I don't know how we can tell.



Scotchlok type connectors are colour coded to match the appropriate cable section.

I think there are three basic sizes - red, blue, yellow.

Have a look here http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?6666660Zjcf6lVs6EVs666ylzCOrrrrQ-


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## maingate (Jan 17, 2012)

It probably would have been easier to fit an on/off switch between the panel and the regulator.

Or even route the live from the panel through a relay which would interrupt the supply when the ignition is on.


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## Canalsman (Jan 17, 2012)

The situation has now been resolved in a different way ...

I've been supplied with, and fitted, a revised board for the regulator. This no longer has a cadenza if the leisure battery is disconnected.

Much easier - no relay or switch required now


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## Bernard Jones (Jan 17, 2012)

Canalsman said:


> Scotchlok type connectors are colour coded to match the appropriate cable section.
> 
> I think there are three basic sizes - red, blue, yellow.
> 
> Have a look here http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?6666660Zjcf6lVs6EVs666ylzCOrrrrQ-



Interesting link, Thank You.

But, given this is supposed to be a time saving connector, I wonder how many mechanics are going to strip the wire to measure the insulation thickness, and wire AWG with a micrometer, then purchase the correct scotchlock connector?
Or just use the nearest one to hand like I did, and be plagued with bad/intermittent connections ever after?


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