# Solar regulator problem



## Canalsman (Nov 15, 2011)

This fitting of a panel hasn't gone too smoothly!

The first panel arrived broken, then the alloy angle I ordered pre-cut arrived as a continuous strip, then I had problems with the MC4 connectors.

And now the regulator appears to be faulty - it's the MPPT 200 device that Techno100 recommended.

I've emailed the following to the seller:

_I have just completed installing a 100w solar panel on the roof of my motorhome, and connected via your regulator to the leisure battery in the vehicle.

I think the regulator may be faulty.

When it powers on, the blue and green LEDs flash, and the error code E1 is shown suggesting that the solar panel voltage is too high.

I measured the voltage off load at 20.1v, and when connected to the regulator terminals the voltage was cycling from a low value to a high value of around 16.5v.

I disconnected the fuse in the positive connection to the battery. The LEDs then stayed on continuously, until the alarm sounded with code F1 - because the battery was disconnected.

I have checked and remade all the connections, and I've now run out of ideas.

Please can you help?_

Can anyone suggest what the problem might be if not the regulator?

Thanks 

Chris


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## Neckender (Nov 15, 2011)

Canalsman said:


> This fitting of a panel hasn't gone too smoothly!
> 
> The first panel arrived broken, then the alloy angle I ordered pre-cut arrived as a continuous strip, then I had problems with the MC4 connectors.
> 
> ...




Sorry can't help you with this Chris, as I've the same problem, today I removed the mppt one that Techno advised and I've refitted the original ordinary 20amp controller and it's working fine.

John.


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## maingate (Nov 15, 2011)

Put a cover over the panel. Disconnect everything and then reconnect, starting at the battery and working back to the panel.

If they are connected in the wrong order, there can be a problem.

I expect that you have an inline fuse between the regulator and battery. Remove the fuse first of all before you begin and refit it just before you remove the cover on the panel.

I am not familiar with the reg. you are using but there are usually 3 connections. Two are the feed from the panel (+ and -). The other is a feed from the battery to tell the reg what the voltage is so that it can regulate  (or not)


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## m30 (Nov 15, 2011)

What is the voltage measured across your leasure battery terminals?

I found mine to be acting a little strange when I connected it up for the first time, but we had only just unplugged the mains hook up, after wild camping for the night I kept an eye on the control read out, and once the sun came up, and the input from the panels reached a high enough level, everything worked perfectly.

From memory, doesn't the E1 fault mean voltage either too high or too low?

Stu


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## Neckender (Nov 15, 2011)

Mine was reading 12.89 volts,

John.


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## Canalsman (Nov 15, 2011)

maingate said:


> Put a cover over the panel. Disconnect everything and then reconnect, starting at the battery and working back to the panel.
> 
> If they are connected in the wrong order, there can be a problem.
> 
> ...



Good point - back to basics ...

I'll try tomorrow.

Thanks


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## Canalsman (Nov 15, 2011)

artheytrate said:


> Sorry can't help you with this Chris, as I've the same problem, today I removed the mppt one that Techno advised and I've refitted the original ordinary 20amp controller and it's working fine.
> 
> John.



That's interesting, and slightly worrying.

I await an answer from the seller ...


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## Canalsman (Nov 15, 2011)

m30 said:


> What is the voltage measured across your leasure battery terminals?
> 
> I found mine to be acting a little strange when I connected it up for the first time, but we had only just unplugged the mains hook up, after wild camping for the night I kept an eye on the control read out, and once the sun came up, and the input from the panels reached a high enough level, everything worked perfectly.
> 
> ...



12.85v - not been on charge for a while ...

E1 is voltage too high - but it isn't.


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## Neckender (Nov 15, 2011)

E1 is voltage to high, or voltage too low.

John.


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## Techno100 (Nov 15, 2011)

More likely to be panel under voltage. The unit switches on at 15volts or more, if the sky is very dull it may be struggling. As you say from a low voltage to 16.5?

Mine was seen to be charging at 3amps (200watt of panels) on Saturday whilst my netbook was on charge "Sunny day but low in the sky now" . On Sunday with no blue sky it was flashing away and clicking as if stuck in no mans land.


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## Canalsman (Nov 15, 2011)

artheytrate said:


> E1 is voltage to high, or voltage too low.
> 
> John.



The manual says in two places 'solar input voltage too high' - there's no mention of too low.

Is this a mis-translation, or an error?

Where did you find that it was voltage too low as well as too high?

And in any case, I measured the voltage off load as 20.1 volts.

Regards

Chris


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## Neckender (Nov 16, 2011)

Hi Chris, On page 6 of the manual trouble shooting right at the bottom column.

E1 fault code displays on lcd panel - solar input voltage is too low or too high -check wiring is correct then check input voltage.


I have allready checked this and mine still is not working with the excactly the same simptons that you have. So I've replaced my old charge controller.

I would also like to know the reply from the seller.

Kind regards,

John.


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## Canalsman (Nov 16, 2011)

Hi John

There are two versions of the user manual - mine came with a copy of v1.0, and I have found a v1.1 on the internet which has been altered to say that code E1 can mean under OR over voltage.

The seller has asked me to take pictures of the error message on the display, plus my installation, and has asked for the serial number of the unit.

I'll do this later today, and I'll post any further info that I get.

Regards

Chris


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## Canalsman (Nov 16, 2011)

First reply from seller:

_Hi Chris - yes I can confirm E1 is HIGH solar voltage (the over or under version you saw was old). Look forward to your update and if there's indeed problem with the PCB we'll send replacement to you. Thanks

Thanks,
-Maximum Solar_


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## Techno100 (Nov 16, 2011)

I think they're having us on? if version 1.1 is the under or over?  1.1 is later than 1.0 not older


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## Canalsman (Nov 16, 2011)

I have emailed pictures and the serial number of the unit as they asked.

I rechecked the installation today, starting from scratch, and with the same result - error code E1.

However I have confirmed that it is an under OR over voltage error. I drove the van to a sunny, rather than part shaded, spot and the error cleared and there was around 1 amp charge rate. About right for low autumn sun I'd say.

I have another question, which I've asked them. In my van, the leisure battery is disconnected from everything except the split charge relays when the engine's running.

The result is that the regulator senses the battery disconnect, produces error code F0, and sounds the alarm continuously. Very irritating.

I cannot find any permanently connected 12v positive in the area of the control panel and Zig unit. The terminal on the Zig unit that should be permanently connected to the battery just isn't, so Elddis have wired it some other fashion to allow the Zig to charge the battery when on hook up (which I know it does).

Any suggestions on how to stop the alarm from sounding? The only thing I can think of is putting a switch in the solar feed, but that's not very elegant ...


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## Techno100 (Nov 16, 2011)

Complications like this are why I prefer to install and wire direct to the battery.


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## Canalsman (Nov 16, 2011)

I agree - but it's not easy to do with the layout of my van ...


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## Canalsman (Nov 17, 2011)

I've had a thought about the alarm issue.

If the 12v feed to the fridge is routed via the control panel area, if I connect that to the 12v positive output in addition to the switched 12v positive connection to the leisure battery, then the regulator will still sense the presence of 12v when the engine's running.

Is it likely that the fridge feed will be accessible near the control panel, or will it be routed direct from the relay?


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## Canalsman (Nov 17, 2011)

I've had a reply from the seller about the regulator:

_Hi Chris,
Thanks for sending us the photos.  I can confirm that indeed normally E1 should only show up due to OVER voltage, not under.  That was a typo from the older user manual before, so the fact that it's showing up during low sun indicates something is faulty.   We have received a similar report from another unit about 3 months ago, and the customer replaced one of the component and it seemed to have resolved the issue.  

Could you confirm if the E1 error is showing up ALL the time or only under low voltage conditions?   If you have a meter on hand could you check the incoming voltage from SOLAR PANEL at the time of your observation, and let us know?   This will help us identify the conditions at which the error occurs.    If the SOLAR inputs about say 17V (under normal sunlight) yet charger still shows E1 then it's clearly wrong. 

The alarm can be silenced by holding down button > 3 seconds - could you try and see if this helps?  

In the meantime I'll submit these information to our engineer for diagnostics and see what we can do to quickly resolve this for you.    Thank you for your patience and I'll be in touch.  _

So they've seen this problem before apparently ...

Here is my reply:

_The code E1 only appears during a low light condition, as is typical at this time of year.

When I drove the vehicle into sunlight the code cleared.

The unit is cycling whilst in low light - first the blue and green LED's are lit and a small charge rate is shown, then the LED's go off and error code E1 is shown. Then the cycle starts again. The cycle duration is around 10 seconds.

The off load voltage from the panel whilst this was happening was 20.1 volts, and when connected to the regulator the voltage measured across the input terminals cycled from a low voltage reading (I forgot to note this) up to about 16.5 volts. This voltage cycling was very quick - around 1 second I'd say.

I participate in a forum where two other people have bought the same unit from you, and they say they have the same situation occurring. Don't you think that's odd?

Please can you clarify why the version 1.1 manual is OLDER than the version 1.0 manual?

I will have to try the silencing of the alarm when I next run the vehicle. If it works, will the alarm remain silenced till the next time I start the engine and the condition occurs again?

Finally, if you conclude that the unit is faulty, what needs replacing, and how quickly can you send me the part?_

They are being very helpful, which is good.

Further updates in due course


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## mrbigglesworth (Nov 17, 2011)

My new mppt controller from Taiwan also doesn't like the low voltage from the poor light at this time of year.  I reckon on about 2 or 3 hours of useful light a day giving me about 7% of the rated panel output. 

I have rewired the connections with a couple of 2-way switches to divert the p.v. input and battery output via my old pwm controller.  Not much juice generated but it helps with keeping the batteries topped up.  At least it works from dawn to dusk.

 Mr B.


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## Neckender (Nov 17, 2011)

I've also sent the seller an Email, awaiting his answer.

John.


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## ipcel (Nov 17, 2011)

*MPPT Controller*

The point of the MPPT Controller is that it tries to extract the maximum from the solar panel in low light.
The reason it pulses the voltage is that it stores the low power from the solar panel which is of no use to charge the battery then dumps it into the battery when it has got enough. This can happen every second or so.
I have the MPPT 200 and it shows the same apparent problem you have but it is working fine.


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## Canalsman (Nov 17, 2011)

ipcel said:


> The point of the MPPT Controller is that it tries to extract the maximum from the solar panel in low light.
> The reason it pulses the voltage is that it stores the low power from the solar panel which is of no use to charge the battery then dumps it into the battery when it has got enough. This can happen every second or so.
> I have the MPPT 200 and it shows the same apparent problem you have but it is working fine.



That makes sense ...

Hopefully the seller will confirm that - it's all a bit confused at the moment.


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## Firefox (Nov 17, 2011)

This makes sense vis a vis fitting a cut off switch to the panel side because I read that voltage pulsing from some regulatgors was not tolerated well by inverters.

I just fitted the £20 Maplins regulator on mine as a first try. It is probably inefficient but seems to work OK. I don't have any error codes, just a simple LED to tell me if it is charging or not :lol-053:


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## Canalsman (Nov 18, 2011)

The latest update ...

_Hi Chris,
I'm sorry about the confusion with manual's version number - but the one I provided you (version 1.0) is indeed the latest.  The other one you saw on the internet is indeed the older version (despite 1.1), but the version number on that was incorrect.   I can confirm again that under normal circumstances the E1 should only show under PV OVERvoltage conditions (not under). 

Yes I found out from my colleague yesterday that there are also 3 other similar reports about the E1 error from unit sold in Sep/Oct and we're getting our technicians to track down the possible cause of hardware failure, so to resolve this quickly what I recommend is to send you replacement board so you can replace it as soon as possible.   The boards will take about a week to be ready and we'll send it out to you ASAP. 

The alarm will shutoff after button's pressed until the next incident occurs or the system resets.

Thanks and sorry again for the inconvenience.  _

So if you have an MPPT-200 regulator that's behaving in the above fashion, best send the eBay seller a message ...

Regards

Chris


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## Techno100 (Nov 20, 2011)

I have tried all 3 of mine with the same result today. All cycle between charge/battery type2 and E1 whilst there is daylight but not enough or any Sun. The version 1 instruction I have say UNDER and OVER voltage. I put a meter on and the voltage was fluctuating between 13 and 18 and this is the cause as the unit switches on and off at the 15 volt mark.
So I either have 3 faulty regulators or they are working to design. I believe the latter and they are still delivering charge where PWM regulator would be giving nothing.

PS the ACTUAL wording of fault code E1 is "Solar input voltage is too low or too high"


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## Techno100 (Nov 20, 2011)

ipcel said:


> The point of the MPPT Controller is that it tries to extract the maximum from the solar panel in low light.
> The reason it pulses the voltage is that it stores the low power from the solar panel which is of no use to charge the battery then dumps it into the battery when it has got enough. This can happen every second or so.
> I have the MPPT 200 and it shows the same apparent problem you have but it is working fine.



I agree


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## Canalsman (Nov 20, 2011)

What you say seems entirely plausible - but the seller is insistent that there's a fault.

I'll await the replacement board and see what transpires ...


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## ipcel (Nov 20, 2011)

Is the seller a salesman or technician?
There again if he's like the technicians where I bought my camper we have no chance.


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## Canalsman (Nov 20, 2011)

The seller has a technical department, he says, who are investigating.

From my knowledge of sales people, they don't usually volunteer that there's a fault - not just with mine but some others' too.


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## Techno100 (Nov 20, 2011)

From the sound of it if we believe the salesman all 3 of mine are faulty right out of the box and everyone elses too. Has anyone got one that does not display E1 in poor light?
Also for version 1.1 as opposed to version 1.0 to be referred to as the old one is nonsense in Chinese too. If version one IS the new one then my manual (all three) say E1 is low and high voltage which is not what the seller says.


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## ipcel (Nov 20, 2011)

Just Googled MPPT 200 and got instructions Ver. 1.1 which states for error E1
"When solar input voltage is too low or too high, the charger will automatically cut off charging."
Which is exactly what my Ver. 1.0 says.


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## Canalsman (Nov 21, 2011)

Apparently all is well - this is the latest update:

_Dear Chris -

This is quite embarrassing, but we just had a conference call with with our technicians and they've made some major clarifications to the confusion re: this E1 situation.  It looks like we got ahead of ourselves.

First of all, pls accept our apology for the confusion with the user manual. I have re-read your first few emails describing the error and would like to inform you that your charger may be in fact working normally.  The E1 error as initially designed was intended for detecting "low" or "high" PV voltage, so under low light or excessive light conditions it will trigger this error. However once the charger is removed from this condition, e.g. restored to normal range, the error will resolve itself automatically.  This appears to be what your charger is behaving.  The best way to check is to simply take a meter and measure the +/- PV input port on the charger, and you will see what the actual voltage going in from the PV panel.

The old manual you saw where it says E1 error will trigger under LOW and HIGH voltage is actually correct.   Reason our "new" manual version says HIGH voltage only is that we are phasing out this feature in our production in December as we do not see the point of triggering low voltage error because this happens at least a few times anyway.  My colleague who handled the documentation  misunderstood and though that the change was already implemented so only included "high" voltage, and as a result, several of our staff including myself was misinformed and in turn conveyed the wrong information to you.   I'm terribly sorry about this.  

I hope this will resolve any confusion you have - but if you have any questions pls do not hesitate to let me know. Thank you.

Best regards,
-James K., MPP Solar Inc._

Panic over then


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## Techno100 (Nov 21, 2011)

Yes apart from the fact that new ones are or have been revised because the low voltage fault error code is pointless.


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## Canalsman (Nov 21, 2011)

I replied asking if it's worth replacing the board anyway, particularly if the charging is more efficient ...


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## Neckender (Nov 21, 2011)

mine was giving the E1 error code in the bright sunlight we had earlier in Oct / Nov. My old controller in ordinary daylight used to charge the batteries and would also charge my vehicle battery from my battery master, but this new one doesn't do this, not enough to do the vehicle battery but just kept my 3 leisure batteries topped.

John.


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## Techno100 (Nov 21, 2011)

Even in bright sunlight if there is the slightest shadow cast on the panel it will drop the voltage drastically. Make sure there are no objects on the roof like aerials or sat dish that are affecting performance.


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## Canalsman (Nov 22, 2011)

Another update:

_Hi Chris,

The new (but minor) change in December is to implement a new firmware, as well as removing E1 for UNDER voltage conditions, but other than that there are no other functional or hardware changes.   I would be happy to include here the new firmware (and instruction).  Please have a look - it's a straightforward process, but you will require a DB9-RJ45 cable.   

The new firmware will increase/compensate a under-reported voltage on display.   _

I was sent the firmware and software to 'flash' the appropriate chip with the update. I intend to give it a try - it requires a suitable cable (which I have) to connect to the communications port on the lower edge of the regulator.


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## Techno100 (Nov 22, 2011)

That's great if it works Chris, nice one!


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## Canalsman (Nov 22, 2011)

I'll give it a try - probably at the weekend - and report back ...


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## and123wills (Nov 25, 2011)

Hi I have just fitted my solar panels as well,  two from the German seller on eBay they are connected to c2430 controller  witch gives LCD read out then to a 125 battery.

There is a red light marked charge witch is lit and a green light marked load also lit it looks like the red light is not as strong as the green?

On the LCD display panel it reads:- load 00.0a............battery 13.03v..............charge 00.0a.................charge 000000 ah.............load 000000 ah.........battery soc 81%...............charge off 13.7v.....................load off 10.5v..................load on 12.5v.............

When I contacted them for the first time the soc on battery was 81% over three days the battery depleted to 54% the only thing (i hope ) is there has been no direct sunlight since i fitted them, am i right in thinking this or have I also got a problem ?

Thanks In advance.


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## Techno100 (Nov 25, 2011)

With many regulators the SOC is only accurate if the solar is the ONLY source of charge and all the ouput (lights skts etc) is connected to the regulators load terminals. There is often a means to disable the FOC function in the menu.
If your battery is reading 13volts or more then clearly the SOC is wrong.


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## and123wills (Nov 25, 2011)

Techno100 said:


> With many regulators the SOC is only accurate if the solar is the ONLY source of charge and all the ouput (lights skts etc) is connected to the regulators load terminals. There is often a means to disable the FOC function in the menu.
> If your battery is reading 13volts or more then clearly the SOC is wrong.



Thanks Techno, Just to put my mind at rest should the battery be charging now or am i correct in thinking the solar panel's are not going to charge until i get direct sun light or could there be something else wrong???????

Thanks for your time Andrew.


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## Techno100 (Nov 25, 2011)

Yes you are getting charge when the sky is fairly clear. A full battery without any charge will show 12.6 volts so the fact that you see 13 volts is evidence that there is supply


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## Canalsman (Nov 30, 2011)

Canalsman said:


> I was sent the firmware and software to 'flash' the appropriate chip with the update. I intend to give it a try - it requires a suitable cable (which I have) to connect to the communications port on the lower edge of the regulator.




It turns out that I may not have the correct cable, so the seller very kindly sent me a suitable cable which arrived today.

I will try the firmware update in the next day or two, and report back ...


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## Canalsman (Dec 12, 2011)

Finally! I've updated the firmware, and I no longer get the error code when the voltage is low 

I have also fitted a relay in the positive feed from the solar panel, so when the engine's running the panel is disconnected.

This prevents the alarm from sounding to tell me that the leisure battery is disconnected ...

The installation is now complete - what an epic!


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## Neckender (Dec 13, 2011)

Canalsman said:


> Finally! I've updated the firmware, and I no longer get the error code when the voltage is low
> 
> I have also fitted a relay in the positive feed from the solar panel, so when the engine's running the panel is disconnected.
> 
> ...




Hi Chris what did it entail to remove the error code.

John.


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## Canalsman (Dec 13, 2011)

Hi John

I have the software and instructions to flash the firmware in the unit.

Besides this you will need a laptop with a serial port, or a USB to serial port adapter, and a cable with a 9 pin male D connector to RJ45.

I have instructions on the pin connections necessary for the cable, plus the cable that I was sent by MPP Solar (the eBay vendor).

I am happy to loan you the cable if you have the other equipment, and feel comfortable with having a go. There is a risk whenever you update firmware that you can corrupt the chip, so bear that in mind.

Regards

Chris


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## Neckender (Dec 13, 2011)

Canalsman said:


> Hi John
> 
> I have the software and instructions to flash the firmware in the unit.
> 
> ...



This is all above me Chris, we don't live to far apart is there any chance you could do this for me.

Regards,

John.


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## Canalsman (Dec 13, 2011)

Sent you a PM, John


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## Canalsman (Dec 19, 2011)

Successfully updated the firmware in John's device ...

If anyone else wants their's done, send me a PM and I'll see what can be done


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## Neckender (Dec 19, 2011)

Canalsman said:


> Successfully updated the firmware in John's device ...
> 
> If anyone else wants their's done, send me a PM and I'll see what can be done



Yes cheers for that Chris, Job well done, just got to fit it back in the van as soon as I get time,
Thanks again,
John.


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## Techno100 (Dec 24, 2011)

Fitted a CBE unit on mine today(top left with green light) so now charging the engine battery with the surplus solar charge
Simple to splice it in to the Brown/green engine and Brown/blue hab battery cables behind the distribution panel






Also increased to 6mm from regulator to batteries and getting a decent charge today(winter cloud)now the engine battery is calling for charge and the hab is full


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## Bigpeetee (Dec 24, 2011)

Neat job, well done.


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## Neckender (Dec 24, 2011)

I have fitted my mppt charge controller today which was updated very kindly by canalsman, but I still have the fault code E1, I have 160watt of panels and was recieving between 1 and 15 watts today in sunshine. should my panels be producing more even though the sun is very low. I have a battery master fitted but my vehicle battery is not charging as leisure batteries are not sufficiently charged.
Pictures below.

 Click images


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## Techno100 (Dec 24, 2011)

The battery master does NOT work the same way as the CBE
The CBE gives priority to the leisure battery and the overflow after 13.6 volts is achieved is diverted to the Cab battery at anything up to 4 amps
The battery master sends only 1 amp to the Cab battery whilst ever the Cab voltage is half a volt lower than the Hab battery, designed specifically to give priority to the CAB battery to offset the drain from the alarm during storage.
Solar panel users are better off with the CBE unit.

I have 200 watt of panels but a 60 watt panel is shaded by the stowed sat dish so only 140 watt effective. I still managed up to 35 watts whilst there today.
If your batteries are already full then you wont see what the panels might be producing and you would have to switch some load on to promote an increase in regulator output.

I would switch your regulator to battery type 2 or even 3 during the cold weather

It occurs to me that if E1 is still showing on under voltage? then the update has not been successful


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## Canalsman (Dec 24, 2011)

Techno100 said:


> It occurs to me that if E1 is still showing on under voltage? then the update has not been successful



Possibly - the process I followed was identical to that used on my regulator. And the software reported that the firmware had been successfully updated ...

And there was a clue that things had changed - the voltage across the leisure battery that the regulator was connected to showed a reading about 0.5v higher after the update had been done. There was no charger connected to the battery at the time, so the different reading seems to indicate that the update had worked, or made a difference.

John - is it possible that your E1 reading is now an over voltage error? Does the E1 code appear as light is fading and the voltage output from the panels is reducing? Or is it during a full sun (or as full as it gets!) condition?

Regards

Chris


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## Techno100 (Dec 24, 2011)

It is designed to work in full Sun, only a fault would push it way outside it's working range and unlikely in Winter


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## Canalsman (Dec 24, 2011)

Just trying to suss out the details ...


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## Neckender (Dec 25, 2011)

Hi Chris it was showing the fault in what sun we had on christmas eve, i'm begining to wonder if I have a fault with my twin 80watt panels.

John.


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## Techno100 (Dec 25, 2011)

I would think the only way you would get an overvoltage E1 indication is if you had connected them in series and this would register the code permanent.
If the code only appears in dim light and intermittent then it is undervoltage and is working as originally designed (warts n all)


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## Neckender (Dec 25, 2011)

Not in series Techno and voltage reading of 17.5 volts.
Thanks for replies.

Think I will have to wait untill we get some decent overhead sun.

John.


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## Techno100 (Dec 25, 2011)

Should only show E1 at less than 15 volts


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## Canalsman (Dec 26, 2011)

I think there's a wiring fault somewhere - needs a recheck ...

Give me a ring John - you've got the number - and we can talk it through.

Regards

Chris


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## Canalsman (Dec 30, 2011)

I have been experiencing over voltage problems with my unit too since upgrading the firmware.

The voltage displayed on the regulator is about 0.8v higher than the actual leisure battery voltage.

I sent my findings to Kevin at MPP Solar, and he has now told me that the wrong firmware version was sent to me, and has sent me another version to try!

It's turning out to be a right performance ...


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## Techno100 (Dec 30, 2011)

A china man called Kevin wouldn't fill me with confidence. Sorry it's become a saga for you but glad I've left mine as is. The under voltage alert is not a problem for me and it us still keeping my batteries happy. I hope you get it sorted


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## Canalsman (Dec 30, 2011)

Techno100 said:


> A china man called Kevin wouldn't fill me with confidence. Sorry it's become a saga for you but glad I've left mine as is. The under voltage alert is not a problem for me and it us still keeping my batteries happy. I hope you get it sorted



Kevin isn't Chinese - his written English and idioms that he uses clearly indicate that he's a Brit!

However his technicians are Chinese. 

Kevin has been unfailingly helpful and very quick to respond to emails. And he sent me a cable free of charge ...

I'm impressed with the support they offer, and hopefully I am helping them to sort out a few problems. I know there shouldn't be any in the ideal world - but best to get it sorted so everyone benefits.

I'll update the thread in due course, and I've emailed Artheytrate to let him know what's going on.


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## vwalan (Dec 30, 2011)

think in the bin is the way. far too complicated . even the makers cant sort it. send them back and ask for your money back. simplicity is the name of the game. otherthan the very cheap maroc ones only lasting about a year . but what can you expect for a tenner.
 the new ones from therapy 2000 in stoke prior you just fit and forget. pwm . only as a few lights but seems to work well. 30amp 39 quid . ideal.


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## Techno100 (Dec 30, 2011)

I firmly believe that English names are a sales ploy. I dealt with a flag company to obtain flags for motorroamers and dealt with a guy called Jason and yes 99% grammatically correct but they still arrived from china. I did after some argument get the import duty refunded lol


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## Neckender (Jan 2, 2012)

Right I think the problem with my twin 80 watt solar panels is they are knackered, I brought them off ebay in March 2011 for £300 plus, worked perfect untill our Holidays in Sept 2011, in the second week of our holiday the battery master stopped charging our vehicle battery when parked up, must have stopped charging the leisures too but with using the  motorhome regularly didn't have a problem with batteries. Anyway had panels checked today reading 18 volts but no amps whatsoever in bright sunshine. So hopefully ebay seller will replace them.
Also during our second week of holiday we were on an aire with tall pine trees and during the night we had very heavy winds and a number of large pine cones hit the roof and panels of our motorhome but no visible damage to either could this have stopped the panels from charging.

By the way techno the German seller has put his 80watt panels up to £149.

John.


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## Techno100 (Jan 2, 2012)

Yes they went up some time ago. Would not have used him again anyway so long as parcel force are involved.
It's unlikely that both of your panels are knackered 18 volts whilst connected to the batteries is fine and the current is probably less than 1 amp unless you can tilt them towards the Sun


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## Neckender (Jan 2, 2012)

My last van Trigano tribute I fitted 100watt panel and it kept my twin leisure and vehicle batteries  topped up through my battery master for the 3 years I owned it, my new van up untill Sept 2011 did this then suddenly stopped working, battery master ok as it charges vehicle battery when on hook up or if a seperate charger is connected to my leisure batteries.

John.


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## Neckender (Jan 2, 2012)

***** said:


> Just found it
> I posted that I got 0.16 amp on a cloudy day.
> I tested it a few days later in bright sunshine and from memory I got 0.6 or 0.7 amp out of my one 90 watt panel.
> Obviously the sun was still very low on the horizon.



My 160 watt today in bright sun gave a reading of zilch amps with multimeter.
John.


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## Techno100 (Jan 2, 2012)

Where did you connect this ammeter? and what was the voltage of the battery at this time?


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## Techno100 (Jan 2, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> Where did you connect this ammeter? and what was the voltage of the battery at this time?



In addition
A Van bitz battery master does not rely on any charge from anywhere to work.
It is designed to transfer current from the leisure battery to the cab battery while ever the cab battery is half a volt lower and this is completely irrelevant to your solar situation


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## Neckender (Jan 2, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> Where did you connect this ammeter? and what was the voltage of the battery at this time?



I had auto electrician round, he disconected the positive from solar to charge controller and conected ihs multi meter positive to the positive on solar panel lead then connected negative from multimeter to negative on charge controller with multi meter set at dc 10 amps. don't know what the voltage at leisure batteries was.

If I remember right when I checked the readings on leisure batteries myself a few days ago it was 13.3 volts and within a couple of days would be down to 12.8 volts,
 but what I can't understand if panels are ok and charge controller ok battery master ok, why did my vehicle battery suddenly stop charging. My old charge controller has led lights to show state of charge when fully charged the last led would flash when now fully charged after a few hours starts to flash nearly all leds as if the batteries are low. Brand new twin 110 amp batteries the van is only 9 months old.

Like I've said vehicle battery charges when on hook up and green light comes on my cak tanks bcm.

John.


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## Neckender (Jan 2, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> In addition
> A Van bitz battery master does not rely on any charge from anywhere to work.
> It is designed to transfer current from the leisure battery to the cab battery while ever the cab battery is half a volt lower and this is completely irrelevant to your solar situation



Hi Techno it's not a van bitz battery master but a cak tanks bcm12.

John.


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## Techno100 (Jan 2, 2012)

CAK tanks BCM is totally different to a battery master and should not be called one or it will cause complete confusion.
The CBE BCM12 or whatever is designed to transfer current to the cab battery only once the leisure battery reaches 13.6volts.
Any battery reading over 12.6volts would indicate that a charge IS or HAS recently been delivered. A full battery OFF charge will read 12.6volts once it has settled.

I don't think your auto electrician has done the right thing at all. You cant just start disconnecting wires any old how. A procedure needs to be followed to maintain correct operation.
The best way is to pull the positive line fuse from the solar and then the positive line fuse from the line to the battery. Then connect an ammeter in place of the battery line fuse and then replace the solar fuse.
THEN take a reading (a small one perhaps) Roll on Spring!

EDIT also from your description it sounds like hes put the ammeter before the regulator ? WRONG


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## Neckender (Jan 2, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> CAK tanks BCM is totally different to a battery master and should not be called one or it will cause complete confusion.
> The CBE BCM12 or whatever is designed to transfer current to the cab battery only once the leisure battery reaches 13.6volts.
> Any battery reading over 12.6volts would indicate that a charge IS or HAS recently been delivered. A full battery OFF charge will read 12.6volts once it has settled



So thats why its not working then if my solar panels are not  getting the batteries up to 13.6 volts. I don't think I've explained right, as I know there is a fault somewhere, I have used hook up on drive every thing ok  disconnected from hook up and even in sun light after a couple of days drops to aprox 12.8 and cab battery display drops to 3 segments on led panel in motorhome, and green light on bcm12 goes out.

John.

Ps my last van with same system worked great.


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## Techno100 (Jan 2, 2012)

The transfer starts at 13.6 and I think it continues until the leisure falls to 12.6 before the green light will go out.
Yes it will work immediately on hook up with the charger switched on.

BTW 12.8volts is perfectly healthy off charge.


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## Neckender (Jan 2, 2012)

Cheers Techno, ***** and Chris.

Give me gas anyday.

John.


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## Techno100 (Jan 2, 2012)

For reference and BCM12 is only the title used by CAK
http://www.cbe.it/sites/default/files/CSB2.pdf


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## Neckender (Jan 28, 2012)

Here's an update I've recieved new internals for my mppt charge controller from the seller in tiawan (great seller on ebay), rebuilt the charge controller and fitted it to the van today E1 error code has now disapeared, and today the readings were 18watts at 1.1 amps charge, does this sound right for 160watt of panels, I know the sun is still low in the sky.

thanks for all the help on this.

John.


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## Techno100 (Jan 28, 2012)

Did you try switching some load on to drop the battery voltage? this will coax all that is possibly available out of the system.


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## Neckender (Jan 28, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> Did you try switching some load on to drop the battery voltage? this will coax all that is possibly available out of the system.



Will try that tomorrow if still sunny, cheers.

John.


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## Techno100 (Jan 28, 2012)

Although I've put up with the E1 under voltage alert without too much concern I have now contacted the seller.
I have 3 of these (2 yet un fitted) I don't want to fit these to customers in their current state but I dont hold out much hope that they'll send me 3 new boards


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## Canalsman (Jan 28, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> Although I've put up with the E1 under voltage alert without too much concern I have now contacted the seller.
> I have 3 of these (2 yet un fitted) I don't want to fit these to customers in their current state but I dont hold out much hope that they'll send me 3 new boards



Well they sent me a board, also fitted and working better, without query ... So I'd be pretty hopeful


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## Techno100 (Feb 1, 2012)

They want to charge me £11 for 1 or £27 for 3 replacement boards. Were you charged?


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## Neckender (Feb 1, 2012)

Hello Techno I wasn't charged, but I was like canalsman I got in touch with the company straight away as I had fitted my mppt controller as soon as it had arrived and enquired about the E1 error code.

John


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## Techno100 (Feb 1, 2012)

I think it is reasonable I suppose? it is the postage they are charging effectively.


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## Canalsman (Feb 1, 2012)

I was supplied free of charge ...

I think you could argue the toss as a warranty issue.


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## Techno100 (Feb 1, 2012)

Were you both supplied the new model higher voltage boards?


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## Neckender (Feb 1, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> Were you both supplied the new model higher voltage boards?



I was supplied with all the internals, Base plate, heat sink, silicone pad, main board,2 new flat cables and 7 sets of screws and washers. It took me just over 1/2hour to replace all, I,m used to replacing pcbs in gas boilers.

John.


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## Neckender (Feb 1, 2012)

Latest on my installation, sinc rebuild of my regulator, my vehicle battery is now charging merrily through my C.A.K. battery master,I'm a real happy bunny now.

John

Ps, thanks to Techno and especially to canalsman for the help supplied. What a great set of people on this forum.


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## Canalsman (Feb 1, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> Were you both supplied the new model higher voltage boards?



This is the info I was given:

_Hi Chris,

I am very sorry to hear about the test result.   I have confirmed with our technician that this firmware is new, so this must be a hardware issue.   What I will do is to send you a replacement module - not the current type you're using which we've phased out since December, but the newly designed PCB with toroidal transformers.    You'll not need to do anything with the firmware as it's already new.   The new PCB hardware will also allow wider MPPT range (15~33V) and a maximum of 50V (Voc). 

Attached is a simple SOP on installing the new PCB.   The hardware will be sent out to you today.   Very sorry about this again but I will do my best to make this work for you.   Thanks for your patience. 

Best regards,
-Kevin H., MPP Solar Inc._

Regards

Chris


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## Canalsman (Feb 1, 2012)

artheytrate said:


> Latest on my installation, sinc rebuild of my regulator, my vehicle battery is now charging merrily through my C.A.K. battery master,I'm a real happy bunny now.



Excellent news John


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## Techno100 (Feb 1, 2012)

Thanks, I've thanked them and registered my discontent with the knowledge that other customers whom I was possibly responsible for them buying from you have received free replacements whilst you want me to pay £27 I await a reaction


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## Techno100 (Feb 4, 2012)

By the way Chris & John
You'll have noticed the terminals are a bit of a fiddle to accommodate the 4mm cable or for me 6mm
I use these 18mm long spade, just need a bit of a trim to fit
eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace


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## Canalsman (Feb 5, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> By the way Chris & John
> You'll have noticed the terminals are a bit of a fiddle to accommodate the 4mm cable or for me 6mm
> I use these 18mm long spade, just need a bit of a trim to fit
> eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace



You're right - they were a fiddle. I ended up removing some strands of wire until they fitted ...


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## Neckender (Feb 5, 2012)

:ditto:

John.


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## Techno100 (Feb 12, 2012)

Paid the £27 paypal request today for the new boards.
You guys got a good deal but I'm prepared to accept what I've been offered as realistically they are upgrades.
Cheers


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## Neckender (Feb 12, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> By the way Chris & John
> You'll have noticed the terminals are a bit of a fiddle to accommodate the 4mm cable or for me 6mm
> I use these 18mm long spade, just need a bit of a trim to fit
> eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace



I sent off for the connectors that you've used :idea-007:just waiting for the time to fit them, thanks again Techno.

John.


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## Techno100 (Feb 12, 2012)

Hey John
Thanks to a discussion on another forum we came to these
eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
Ideal for breaking the wiring to install a battery master or CBE charge transfer unit


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## Neckender (Feb 12, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> Hey John
> Thanks to a discussion on another forum we came to these
> eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
> Ideal for breaking the wiring to install a battery master or CBE charge transfer unit



Good Idea similar connections in most central heating pumps.

John.


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## NicknClair (Feb 13, 2012)

Hi Guys,

Staying with Solar but not so with the reg's, have any of you got involved with the blocking diodes fitted in the junction box on the back of the panels?

I'm 99.99999999999999% i've got a duffn, as pointed to the sun, i'm getting 23.7V pre-diode and zilco post-diode, but interestingly I read that anything Sub 100W shouldn't need a diode anyway. Going to get an 8A from the well known internet auction site, just wondering if any of you have come across this in the past.

Rgs


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## Neckender (Feb 13, 2012)

Sorry can't help you, Techno's the best for info.

John.


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## Techno100 (Feb 13, 2012)

The diodes prevent current flowing in the opposite direction when there is shade or at night and have nothing to do with voltage regulation


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## NicknClair (Feb 13, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> The diodes prevent current flowing in the opposite direction when there is shade or at night and have nothing to do with voltage regulation



I understand they have nothing to do with volt regulation, it's just that I was questioning whether a single panel under 100W needed a diode, as most of the time diodes are advised when there are multiple panel installations to like to rightly put it, stop current flowing in the oposite direction when shaded.
I will tack a new diode in as you never know if I might add more panels, just curious to see if you have come across the issue


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## maingate (Feb 13, 2012)

Anything over 30 watt should have voltage regulation.


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## Techno100 (Feb 19, 2012)

Well my upgrade PCBs are on their way but the days are getting longer and clearer so the E1 code has been absent.
In fact! I think the solar season has begun 
Hammered the batteries today to force the amps out of the blue sky
350 watt inverter 22"tv AND my 240watt Makita lithium ion battery charger.
Battery voltage dived to 11.2 but regulator knocked up 7amps
in a little over 10 minutes after my 18 volt makita battery was fully charged the leisures were back up to strength


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## Neckender (Feb 19, 2012)

My batteries were reading 12.8 volts, 160watt solar charge controller was reading 33watts and charging 2.2 amps.

John.


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## Techno100 (Feb 25, 2012)

All my parts arrived but no instructions, did you get any?


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## Canalsman (Feb 25, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> All my parts arrived but no instructions, did you get any?



Yes I did - PM me your email address and I'll forward them on to you 

Regards

Chris


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## Techno100 (Feb 25, 2012)

t33_cno@hotmail.co.uk Diamond geezer!


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## Techno100 (Feb 25, 2012)

Just done a Burstner Solano. Unfortunately finished too late to see some charge


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## Canalsman (Feb 25, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> t33_cno@hotmail.co.uk Diamond geezer!



Sent ...


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## Techno100 (Feb 25, 2012)

Cheers Chris I practically had it done when I read the instructions lol
I'm happy that the seller has supplied me 3 complete upgrades for just the postage of £27 to be honest it is very fair and they certainly cant have made anything out of me overall.


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## Hawkmoon (Feb 26, 2012)

*Solar advice*

Hi guys,

Can you offer any advice on what solar equipment to buy and any recommendations on your experiences of a decent seller who offers a good after-sales service in case any problems are encountered?

I was thinking of an 80 ~ 100 watt size panel - plenty of kits on eb*y but didn't want to end up with an inferior regulator or other components that have to be changed a few months down the line, basically I want to get it right first time  and perhaps have spare capacity to add a second panel, if needed at a later date.

Thanks for any advice you might be able to offer.

Pete


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## Techno100 (Feb 26, 2012)

*****
I would re cable direct to the battery myself
Hawkmoon
Have you measured the suitable space on your roof? have you got a budget?


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## Neckender (Feb 26, 2012)

***** said:


> Question Guys.
> I am changing vans and on our Tramp I wired via the regulator and fuse direct to the leisure battery.
> My replacement van has the blue Zig which my previous van had a different system.
> I understand that the Zig has provision to wire the solar into it with a neg and pos inlet.
> Is it better to wire into the Zig or to the battery?



Hi Graham, my van had provision to plug the solar panel in, but somewhere I read it was best to wire it through regulator and direct to the batteries.

John.


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## Techno100 (Feb 26, 2012)

If a LONG time go for 6mm you know it makes sense I would and have anyway
eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace


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## Neckender (Feb 26, 2012)

Hawkmoon said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Can you offer any advice on what solar equipment to buy and any recommendations on your experiences of a decent seller who offers a good after-sales service in case any problems are encountered?
> 
> ...



Hi Pete, I've brought 2 solar systems in the last 4 years (changed van) off Chinease seller 100watt and 160 watt, both systems with their ordinary 20 amp controllers both worked fine. On my current van I've updated to 20amp MPPT charge controller more expensive but it squeezes every drop out of the solar panel.

you will need.

Solar panel,
20amp controller,
roof brackets, 
sikaflex adhesive,
twin cable entry gland,
extra cables with plugs.
fuses.


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## Neckender (Feb 26, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> If a LONG time go for 6mm you know it makes sense I would and have anyway
> eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace



Yes thats what I've also used too.

John.


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## Techno100 (Feb 26, 2012)

Some tips here with a link to part  II in first post
http://www.wildcamping.co.uk/forums...15039-make-your-own-solar-panel-brackets.html


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## Techno100 (Mar 4, 2012)

Canalsman said:


> Yes I did - PM me your email address and I'll forward them on to you
> 
> Regards
> 
> Chris



Did you get a revised spec and user manual Chris?
Mine are all converted and I've replaced the one in my van. I'm not sure I like the lack of a permanent display? but its probably better.
I got 4 amps yesterday with a completely grey sky , amazing


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## Canalsman (Mar 4, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> Did you get a revised spec and user manual Chris?



Nope - wasn't offered one ...


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## Techno100 (Mar 4, 2012)

I can only find links to the old manual but I believe it is the same apart from you have to press the on button for a second to get a 10 second display.

Spec here tho
http://www.mppsolar.com/Photovoltaics/MPPT SCC-1.pdf


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## Canalsman (Mar 4, 2012)

Thanks


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## Hawkmoon (Mar 4, 2012)

Techno100 said:


> Hawkmoon
> Have you measured the suitable space on your roof? have you got a budget?



Thanks for the reply, there is plenty of roof space.
As to budget, as little as possible to get a good, reliable system 
Pete


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