# Oil Change



## StreetSleeper (Aug 6, 2016)

Well this is my question, how often should you change the oil? Personally, I use fully synthetic oil and I change it every 5,000 miles, I change the oil filter every 10,000 miles; I would be interested to hear anyone's views on this matter. The engine is a diesel. Thank you.

Rae & Ann


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## AuldTam (Aug 7, 2016)

My view is that you take excellent care of your engine. It really depends on engine type, age and mileage I suppose modern engines need much less maintenance than older vehicles.


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

AuldTam said:


> It really depends on engine type, age and mileage



Thank you for getting back on this one. Engine: Citroen 1.8 diesel, Mileage: 105,000 and it's 20 years old.

Rae & Ann


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## molly 2 (Aug 7, 2016)

Well i reckon its just about run inn . i would go oil and filter at 10.k or every year  ,but nothing wrong 5 k .but more important  look after the cam belt .not too bad a job on your engine .bazz


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## Wooie1958 (Aug 7, 2016)

Every year oil, oil filter and fuel filter     :hammer:    Your engine will love you for it     :heart:

Low mileage can be worse than high mileage because without regular use the moisture etc, doesn`t get burnt off as it should      :mad2:

Buy them at the right time when the offers are on at the likes of Euro Car Parts and they do not cost a lot of money, even the Fully Synthetics are affordable    :idea:

If you are keeping the van then think about 20 or 25 litre drums of oil as they can work out a lot cheaper than the 4 or 5 litre ones.

I normally buy mine at about christmas time even though i only service it in April      :hammer:


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## David Morison (Aug 7, 2016)

The owner's manual for my NissanElgrand 3.2TD (18 yrs old) says every 5000km kilometres and Elgrand aficionados don't recommend fully synthetic. As most of my mileage is long journeys I don't think there's a need to be too bound by this. No cam belt to renew as it's OHV not OHC.

Where can you get the larger drums of oil from?

David


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## Wooie1958 (Aug 7, 2016)

What viscosity do you use ?


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## phillybarbour (Aug 7, 2016)

Change oil/filter every year despite van only requiring every 2 years or 25,000 mile (2013 Ducato).


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## trevskoda (Aug 7, 2016)

Your spot on ,semi or full sint nomater what folk say i use 10/40 or 5/30/40 from asda change every 5000 or twice a year,my old skoda car has now 320000 miles on clock and im doing the same with van oil as its a cheap repair bill.


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## David & Ann (Aug 7, 2016)

I change my oil on every trip. That is; oil and filter change before I head out to Spain. I change my oil again before the long drive back to England. On arrival at home I change the oil and filters again. We go to scotland a month later and when we return we I change the oil again. The MH is ready for the summer trip the following year. I use the cheap oil 10/40 all the time. My engine purrs all the way and has been doing for the last 14 years without a single mishap mechanically.


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## Obanboy666 (Aug 7, 2016)

David & Ann said:


> I change my oil on every trip. That is; oil and filter change before I head out to Spain. I change my oil again before the long drive back to England. On arrival at home I change the oil and filters again. We go to scotland a month later and when we return we I change the oil again. The MH is ready for the summer trip the following year. I use the cheap oil 10/40 all the time. My engine purrs all the way and has been doing for the last 14 years without a single mishap mechanically.



The oil manufacturers will love you !
Just use a better oil and leave it in longer. Oil technology has come on leaps and bounds in the last 20 years especially synthetic types.


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## wildebus (Aug 7, 2016)

Wooie1958 said:


> Every year oil, oil filter and fuel filter     :hammer:    Your engine will love you for it     :heart:
> 
> Low mileage can be worse than high mileage because without regular use the moisture etc, doesn`t get burnt off as it should      :mad2:
> 
> ...



All the above makes excellent sense, and to the filter list I would also add Air Filter and Cabin/Pollen filter as well. They are usually cheap to buy and worth doing on an annual basis as well.


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## listerdiesel (Aug 7, 2016)

I would drop back to semi-synthetic oil, and change the oil and filter at the same time, 5-6000 miles or so.

Fully synthetic is not really cost-effective on older engines as they don't have the combustion technology to make use of the better oils. Yes, you can run longer on them but you can with a good semi-synthetic as well.

We buy our oil from Costco:

Chevron Supreme 10W-40 Semi-synthetic diesel. We have used it in all of our vehicles, including both of our Discovery V8's which run on LPG.

Peter


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## harrow (Aug 7, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Your spot on ,semi or full sint nomater what folk say i use 10/40 or 5/30/40 from asda change every 5000 or twice a year,my old skoda car has now 320000 miles on clock and im doing the same with van oil as its a cheap repair bill.



Can't do any harm and that's what I do. 

Although I can remember a service manager saying to me,

"you might as well sellotape ten pound notes on the bonnet".


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## vindiboy (Aug 7, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Well this is my question, how often should you change the oil? Personally, I use fully synthetic oil and I change it every 5,000 miles, I change the oil filter every 10,000 miles; I would be interested to hear anyone's views on this matter. The engine is a diesel. Thank you.
> 
> Rae & Ann


  Same here but I change the filter at the same time, around the 5 to 8ooo mile mark, semi synthetic oil in my 2.8 JTD  Ducato engine, did mine last week ,quick and easy job  and about £30 all in .


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

molly 2 said:


> look after the cam belt



Hello Bazz,
Just bought the kit, though the previous owner said it had been changed I always like to do it myself; best to be safe than sorry.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

Wooie1958 said:


> Every year oil, oil filter and fuel filter



That's next on my list, when we get back from Ilfracombe I'm going to change the fuel filter.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

David Morison said:


> Where can you get the larger drums of oil from?



Hello David,
Sorry can't help you on that one, I bought 25 litres of fully synthetic oil out of Halfords when they had it on special offer.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

Wooie1958 said:


> What viscosity do you use ?



5W/40. Hope this helps.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

phillybarbour said:


> despite van only requiring every 2 years or 25,000 mile



Blimey, that's a result.......must save you a fortune.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> cheap repair bill.



Hello Trev,
Preventional maintenance has to be the only way.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

David & Ann said:


> has been doing for the last 14 years without a single mishap mechanically.



Hello David & Ann,
The proof is in the pudding, it sure is an easy way of making the van reliable.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

Obanboy666 said:


> Oil technology has come on leaps and bounds in the last 20 years



It most certainly has. When I first started motorcycling we used to use straight 50 oil and drop it out at 1500 miles......no real filtering in the engine.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

wildebus said:


> Cabin/Pollen filter



I'm going to show my ignorance here and say am I correct in thinking that my van doesn't have the above mentioned and, if it does, could somebody please tell me where it's hiding and what it looks like?

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

listerdiesel said:


> which run on LPG.



Hello Peter,
I've run quite a few vehicles on LPG and was surprised how clean the oil stayed.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

harrow said:


> "you might as well sellotape ten pound notes on the bonnet".



You'll always get the nay sayers, I think it is a small price to pay for getting longevity.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

vindiboy said:


> did mine last week



I shall be doing mine on Thursday just before we leave for Druridge Bay.

Rae & Ann


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## listerdiesel (Aug 7, 2016)

David Morison said:


> Where can you get the larger drums of oil from?
> David



Most motor factors, or places like Costco, but you need an account to shop at Costco.

Peter


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

listerdiesel said:


> Most motor factors, or places like Costco, but you need an account to shop at Costco.



Hello Peter,
I do not have an account but I'm sure some kind soul will help me out when I need assistance.......thank you in anticipation.

Rae & Ann


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## 2cv (Aug 7, 2016)

I have read before that semi is more suited to older engines, some interesting experiences here Semi or fully Synthetic - French Car Forum

More of interest here oil????? - French Car Forum particularly the aspect that if an engine has been run on the recommended mineral oil for a while changing to a more modern  semi or synthetic oil may clear deposits leading to leaks!

It all seems to be a matter of who to believe.


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

2cv said:


> It all seems to be a matter of who to believe.



The discussion about oil, I'm sure, can go on forever; certainly when I was riding a classic motorcycle many an evening was spent talking about different types of oil. When we talk about modern engines I class my Citroen in that bracket being that my previous vehicles were 1973/74 so I class any engine with metric threads as modern but thank you for putting those links up and I shall have a read tonight.

Rae & Ann


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## eddyt (Aug 7, 2016)

ive been using 5 /30 semi synthetic in my 1994 2.5td fiat.
when i worked in a bus garage i used shpd 15/40 in my work van
which was good. but might be a bit thick in the winter.
i also use a oil additive 125 ml of active 8 every oil change. it can
also be used in gearbox and power steering it cuts out any friction.
my gearbox was wining with noisy bearing and it took the noise away.
although i have since had the bearings replaced. because of need to take it out
for faulty clutch. the active 8 additive is £85 a litre though.


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## trevskoda (Aug 7, 2016)

harrow said:


> Can't do any harm and that's what I do.
> 
> Although I can remember a service manager saying to me,
> 
> "you might as well sellotape ten pound notes on the bonnet".



Well he is talking b-ll,i have striped many engines that had few oil changes and i can tell you they were in a clogged up black sticky mess inside with oil jets that are ment to squirt oil on timing chains blocked solid, cams scored & big end shells cut up like the surface of a ice ring,id say £20 for oil & filter twice a year is a good deal rather than a engine strip and rebuild.


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## trevskoda (Aug 7, 2016)

eddyt said:


> ive been using 5 /30 semi synthetic in my 1994 2.5td fiat.
> when i worked in a bus garage i used shpd 15/40 in my work van
> which was good. but might be a bit thick in the winter.
> i also use a oil additive 125 ml of active 8 every oil change. it can
> ...



Independant tests show oil additives are a wast of time and money,slick 50 was one i remember being tested in 100 newyork cabs over a 100000 mls ,no difference from engine without,in fact they found build up round the oil gallerys at big end jurnals.
Id say oil co have it well sorted just change it and you will be fine.


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

eddyt said:


> active 8 additive



Hello Eddy,
The only experience I've ever had with additives was when I had my Bedford 2.3 slant engine and the crank seal was knackered and I bought some oil seal softener, or whatever it was called, unfortunately it didn't cure the problem but it was worth a try at 10 quid a bottle.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> clogged up black sticky mess



Hello Trev,
I can remember stripping an old Reliant 3-wheeler engine down and, where the oil had not been changed, the pungent smell was a giveaway but the cam. cover area was like thick, black, sticky powder and didn't resemble oil at all.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Independant tests show oil additives are a wast of time and money



Hello Trev,
I can always remember the favourite additive for noisy gearboxes, one was a pair of tights and the other was banana skins. Now whether this was true or not I couldn't say but I think a lot more believable than sawdust :lol-049:

Rae & Ann


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## eddyt (Aug 7, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Independant tests show oil additives are a wast of time and money,slick 50 was one i remember being tested in 100 newyork cabs over a 100000 mls ,no difference from engine without,in fact they found build up round the oil gallerys at big end jurnals.
> Id say oil co have it well sorted just change it and you will be fine.



i done a a test with it at a motorbike show. they had a test rig set up
with three rollers in three oil baths connected to a lever which i could press
down by hand and put load on the rollers one at a time the first oil bath had
mobil 1 fully synthetic in i pressed the lever and it scored the roller straight away.
the second oil bath had mobil 1 with slick 50 i pressed the lever it scored the roller
after 20 seconds. the last one had ordinary engine oil and active 8 they set it away
i pressed the lever no score i pressed it even harder with two hands right down as far
as it would go for a few minuets and no scoring. plus it does not put any coating like 
molly or teflon or  anything on the surfaces.


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

eddyt said:


> i done a a test with it at a motorbike show.



Hello Eddy,
I can remember, at Stafford motorcycle show, a very similar test to what you're describing. The guy was using an old style torque wrench with the arrow and the gauge and he was hanging off the end of it.

Rae & Ann


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## eddyt (Aug 7, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Eddy,
> I can remember, at Stafford motorcycle show, a very similar test to what you're describing. The guy was using an old style torque wrench with the arrow and the gauge and he was hanging off the end of it.
> 
> Rae & Ann



yes 
he let me press the lever myself to show it was genuine.
i think motorbikes used it to stop the gearbox siezing up
and locking the back wheel up.


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 7, 2016)

eddyt said:


> i think motorbikes used it to stop the gearbox siezing up



Hello Eddy,
The only problem I've ever had with gearboxes was trying to keep the oil in them: as soon as the oil level dropped the layshaft would run dry and wear the bush out. Having said that, we are talking about pre-unit BSAs and, I hasten to say, with modern gasket paper and not cornflake boxes the problem has been eliminated.

Rae & Ann


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## Deadsfo (Aug 8, 2016)

on a similar vein how often do people change there gearbox oil


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## wildebus (Aug 8, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> I'm going to show my ignorance here and say am I correct in thinking that my van doesn't have the above mentioned and, if it does, could somebody please tell me where it's hiding and what it looks like?
> 
> Rae & Ann



What van do you have? Model, Engine and Reg Date?
Some have them in obvious places, some are tucked away and not obvious at all, and some may not have at all - but that is unlikely I think as otherwise you would end up with loads of detrious like leaves and other stuff coming into the cabin through the air vents. Maybe just a very basic filter that needs a brush or wash?

oh, something else I do every springtime on a vehicle fitted with air con is after replacing the pollen filter is set off an air con cleaning bomb. About £8 in cost and makes a noticable difference to the "ambience" of the cabin and is also anti-bacterial so has a useful health benefit as well


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 8, 2016)

wildebus said:


> What van do you have? Model, Engine and Reg Date?



Thank you for getting back to us. The vehicle is a 1996 Citroen C15 1.8 diesel. Hope this helps. I like the thing about the bomb, I shall have to read a bit more about it though as I don't have an opinion so you'll have to pardon my ignorance.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 8, 2016)

Deadsfo said:


> on a similar vein how often do people change there gearbox oil



A very good point and I have to hang my head in shame, with the older vehicles I checked on a regular basis but I have to come clean here and say that I have not checked on the Citroen; in fact, I couldn't even tell you where the filler plug is........right, confession over.

Rae & Ann


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## wildebus (Aug 8, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Thank you for getting back to us. The vehicle is a 1996 Citroen C15 1.8 diesel. Hope this helps. I like the thing about the bomb, I shall have to read a bit more about it though as I don't have an opinion so you'll have to pardon my ignorance.
> 
> Rae & Ann


I personally dont know that vehicle. Hopefully some other members will have knowledge of it 
Looked on eurocarparts and no cabin or pollen filters appear for it, so maybe has nothing (in which case, even cheaper to service  )


FWIW, I think the bombs I used are comma ones (but would have to look and see if I had any left to check that - bought a bunch of them), but there are lots of different makes.
The ones I like are simple to use ... Basically run the air con at full power on recirculating mode with vents open, close the windows and set off the bomb at the rear seat footwell and leave it for around 10 minutes to do its thing, then go back, turn engine off and leave windows open to disperse.
Really helps get rid of that musty smell you can get over winter when the windows are rarely opened for long and clothes are damp


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## listerdiesel (Aug 8, 2016)

I've never had problems with running semi-synthetic on an older engine, and as we always run diesel grade oil, even in the petrol engines, it encourages the removal of deposits from the engine.

Peter


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 8, 2016)

wildebus said:


> Really helps get rid of that musty smell you can get over winter when the windows are rarely opened for long and clothes are damp



I always try and air the living area of my van every time we come home. This consists of opening the cab windows, the living area windows, roof vent and the back door and all cupboards are opened. The soft furnishing is taken out and aired, in fact, even when we're on site after a few days the soft furnishing is taken out for a good airing. I've had some strange comments........like wet the bed again.........but it just helps to keep the van nice and fresh.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 8, 2016)

listerdiesel said:


> we always run diesel grade oil, even in the petrol engines, it encourages the removal of deposits



Hello Peter,
I had this discussion many years ago. At the time I was using Duckhams oil, which I was lead to believe had a very high detergent level in it which supposedly kept your engine clean and the person suggested that I would be better off using a diesel oil as it would achieve the same results. Is this another myth....... I wonder?

Rae & Ann


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## runnach (Aug 8, 2016)

Your c15 has no pollen filter, the engine is a 1769cc xud series engine and still holds its own today !!!... the 1905 cc was the same block but a bigger bore, and eventually PSA turbocharged the 1769 cc unit

Good news is I have seen these engines with in excess of 300,000 miles and still have life left. The engine will outlast the van !!!

Official service intervals if my recall is not too grey is every 6000 miles or 6 months which ever occured first.

The old school guys tended to change oil and filter a bit more often but it should be remembered they had trained on inferior engines and lubricant technology not as good.

Someone mentioned on a Fiat 2 years 25000 intervals...the old school wont have "any of that lad" because of their upbringing I suppose perhaps playing with the old listers perkins and Gardners. And they do have a point in my opinion.

Like every product the marketing people get involved, and with vans particularly the fleet market is an important market place. 

A few years ago it became very fashionable to go the route of contract hire which is a rental arrangement (tax reasons) and Contract hire companies particularly preferred customers to go full maintenance including routine servicing.vans in better nick on disposal.

So people like our friends at Fiat extended service intervals to 2 years 25k ..so some one signing up on a 3 year 100,000  would only get 3 services not 4...vehicle had reached a service due and was disposed of.....by not doing that service the rental could be reduced, ....that could make a Fiat cheaper to rent than a Ford so method in their madness.

So to add my twopenneth to what others have said, who do you believe ? the manufacturers influenced by the marketeers or the old school when times have changed ...find a median in my world
Channa


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## listerdiesel (Aug 8, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Peter,
> I had this discussion many years ago. At the time I was using Duckhams oil, which I was lead to believe had a very high detergent level in it which supposedly kept your engine clean and the person suggested that I would be better off using a diesel oil as it would achieve the same results. Is this another myth....... I wonder?
> 
> Rae & Ann



Diesel lubrication oil always had a higher level of detergents than any petrol lubricating oil, and we had proof of that when Vauxhall said to use our standard workshop (universal oil) in some Bedford CF's with Perkins engines, they were wrecked within months, the oil was thick as treacle. 

New engines were fitted and the oil/filter changes reduced in period to something that reflected the stop-start nature of these vehicles (it was a laundry, based near Dorking)  Once established, the new regime worked fine.

That was more a servicing periods problem than the oil, but the oil we used in the workshop (Vauxhall/Bedford dealership) was supposedly good for all engines, but it wasn't.

The bigger stuff had 'proper' diesel oil and no troubles, it was just silly using a petrol oil in a diesel.

Vauxhall paid the bills.

Peter


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## maingate (Aug 8, 2016)

I was always a fan of using Redex in engines years ago. It is an upper cylinder lubricant and certainly worked (when added into the oil, not in the petrol). I remember seeing a few stripped down motorcycle engines where it had been used. they were as clean as a whistle and the parts had a faintly pink tinge on them, so it certainly seemed to work.


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 8, 2016)

channa said:


> I have seen these engines with in excess of 300,000 miles and still have life left.



Hello Channa,
Thank you for that very informative post. When I bought the vehicle I was aware that it could reach high mileage, we hope to keep it until it's done 200,000 miles and by that time I would think the rest of the vehicle would be in a very tired state but, who knows, we may be lucky; biggest problem being tin worm but I'm trying to keep it at bay with copious amounts of Waxoyl. As this is our every day vehicle and Scottish winters are quite hard and lots of salt is scattered on the roads, 200,000 miles may be a tad optimistic.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 8, 2016)

listerdiesel said:


> Vauxhall paid the bills.



Hello Peter,
Had a 2.3 slant in my old camper, setting the tappets up was a pure nightmare, the cam. box gasket always leaked but I loved the power delivery. It had a Laycock overdrive and I still miss it but it was too expensive on fuel so the Citroen is a real breath of fresh air; in fact, sometimes, I think it runs on it.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 8, 2016)

maingate said:


> Redex in engines



I can remember when I had my first moped going into my local petrol station and there was this red canister with a gold X on the front with a dial that you could turn round to any mix that you wanted, I think mine was 25 to 1, you would lift the plunger up, put the nozzle in the tank and press down on the plunger making sure you had turned the petrol tap off first. Once filled up with a gallon of petrol, bounce the bike on it's front forks and off I would trundle.

Rae & Ann


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## trevskoda (Aug 8, 2016)

eddyt said:


> i done a a test with it at a motorbike show. they had a test rig set up
> with three rollers in three oil baths connected to a lever which i could press
> down by hand and put load on the rollers one at a time the first oil bath had
> mobil 1 fully synthetic in i pressed the lever and it scored the roller straight away.
> ...



True the fact is teflon in slick 50 will not bond as they state to bearings as i was  the only co at one time with a licence to apply teflon,it requires firing in a oven to bond and thuse wont on bearings which are cooled by oil.


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## trevskoda (Aug 8, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Peter,
> I had this discussion many years ago. At the time I was using Duckhams oil, which I was lead to believe had a very high detergent level in it which supposedly kept your engine clean and the person suggested that I would be better off using a diesel oil as it would achieve the same results. Is this another myth....... I wonder?
> 
> Rae & Ann



True.


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## trevskoda (Aug 8, 2016)

maingate said:


> I was always a fan of using Redex in engines years ago. It is an upper cylinder lubricant and certainly worked (when added into the oil, not in the petrol). I remember seeing a few stripped down motorcycle engines where it had been used. they were as clean as a whistle and the parts had a faintly pink tinge on them, so it certainly seemed to work.



Redex\was tested and found to be useless at cleaning valves or lubing upper cyl,in fact it was suposed to have been taken of shop shelves after they were taken to court and fined heavy for telling porkys.


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## runnach (Aug 8, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Channa,
> Thank you for that very informative post. When I bought the vehicle I was aware that it could reach high mileage, we hope to keep it until it's done 200,000 miles and by that time I would think the rest of the vehicle would be in a very tired state but, who knows, we may be lucky; biggest problem being tin worm but I'm trying to keep it at bay with copious amounts of Waxoyl. As this is our every day vehicle and Scottish winters are quite hard and lots of salt is scattered on the roads, 200,000 miles may be a tad optimistic.
> 
> Rae & Ann


 Don't be thinking I am a Citroen anorak lol ,,,but I sold them back in 1984 and 18 years of em on and off. It is concerning me I remember the specs and product knowledge from 30 years ago and yet I have not a clue what happened last Friday !!

There was two models the C15 D 600 and Citroen C15 d 765 for a real trainspotters moment.. the difference their carrying capacity ..600 and 765 kg respective. Freeborne Motors on the south coast were biggest dealers because they supplied  ROmahome vans for conversion. isnt it strange what you remember ? 

Channa


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 8, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> ,it requires firing in a oven to bond and thuse wont on bearings which are cooled by oil.



Hello Trev,
So is that how the non-wear is achieved and not by lubrication?

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 8, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> True.



Hello Trev,
Am I right in thinking that if we wish to have a clean engine the best choice is to use a diesel oil and forego other options?

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 8, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> it was suposed to have been taken of shop shelves after they were taken to court and fined heavy for telling porkys.



Hello Trev,
Wasn't that really a sign of the times, I mean I can remember the advert Milky Way, a sweet you can eat between meals without ruining your appetite and that classic Treats, melt in your mouth not in your hand. How about 'go to work on an egg'.......I always preferred my motorbike.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 8, 2016)

channa said:


> Don't be thinking I am a Citroen anorak



Hello Channa,
I didn't think that for one minute......what I did think......he knows what he's talking about.

Rae & Ann


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## trevskoda (Aug 9, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Trev,
> So is that how the non-wear is achieved and not by lubrication?
> 
> Rae & Ann



Oil does a lot of jobs lubing under pressure,cleaning holding water and acids not forgetting moving heat away from bearings,wonderful stuff ant it,at my age i could do with some around a few of my joints.:lol-049::lol-049:


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## listerdiesel (Aug 9, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Peter,
> I've run quite a few vehicles on LPG and was surprised how clean the oil stayed.
> 
> Rae & Ann



Yes indeed, and we run out to 8000 mile changes on the V8's when on LPG, the oil is still clear at that mileage.

Peter


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## trevskoda (Aug 9, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Trev,
> Wasn't that really a sign of the times, I mean I can remember the advert Milky Way, a sweet you can eat between meals without ruining your appetite and that classic Treats, melt in your mouth not in your hand. How about 'go to work on an egg'.......I always preferred my motorbike.
> 
> Rae & Ann



Ah yes but if your egg broke down you could always call into a shell garage.:lol-053:sorry only yoking.


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## trevskoda (Aug 9, 2016)

siimplyloco said:


> That was a very bad yolk!



Well it was you lot egging me on.:dance:


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 9, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> ,wonderful stuff ant it,at my age i could do with some around a few of my joints.:lol-049::lol-049:



Hello Trev,
I had a conversation one day and this man was convinced that spraying WD40 on his joints had aided his movement and eased his pain; I know it's good stuff so perhaps that's where you're going wrong :lol-049:

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 9, 2016)

listerdiesel said:


> the oil is still clear at that mileage.



Hello Peter,
I know what you're saying, it was so clean I felt like putting it back in again 

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 9, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> call into a shell garage



Hello Trev,
That was a cracker.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 9, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> you lot egging me on.:dance:



Hello Trev,
You mean to say you're playing chicken?

Rae & Ann


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## trevskoda (Aug 9, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Trev,
> I had a conversation one day and this man was convinced that spraying WD40 on his joints had aided his movement and eased his pain; I know it's good stuff so perhaps that's where you're going wrong :lol-049:
> 
> Rae & Ann



Copaslip for me.


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## trevskoda (Aug 9, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Trev,
> You mean to say you're playing chicken?
> 
> Rae & Ann



What  a nice reply,im eggstatic.


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## Chris356 (Aug 9, 2016)

Does anyone use engine flush ?


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 9, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Copaslip for me.



Hello Trev,
I prefer elbow grease.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 9, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> What  a nice reply



Hello Trev,
Well I never like to use fowl language.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 9, 2016)

Chris356 said:


> Does anyone use engine flush ?



Hello Chris,
Very good point. Speaking for myself, no, as it can loosen up all manner of nasty things but I have seen me chucking a cheap oil in, doing 50 miles and then dropping it back out again.

Rae & Ann


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## trevskoda (Aug 9, 2016)

Chris356 said:


> Does anyone use engine flush ?



No dont do it as if a old donky it can cause more harm than good washing crap through the bearings & old gummed up seals / joints start to leak.:scared:
I once new a chap tried flushing his old bsa a10 with parafin,it exploded blowing the arse out of crank cases.:lol-053:


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## trevskoda (Aug 9, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Trev,
> I prefer elbow grease.
> 
> Rae & Ann



I seen the film,john revolting wasent it.


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## trevskoda (Aug 9, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Trev,
> Well I never like to use fowl language.
> 
> Rae & Ann



Only when feathering your own nest of course.:lol-053:


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## trevskoda (Aug 9, 2016)

Right im of to bed now for some eggstra sleep.:lol-053::sleep-027:


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 9, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> I once new a chap tried flushing his old bsa a10 with parafin,it exploded blowing the arse out of crank cases.:lol-053:



Hello Trev,
The A10 was infamous for wet sumping if that ball bearing wasn't seated properly and a nightmare for knocking out the timing side bush if the oil wasn't changed regularly.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 9, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> john revolting wasent it.



Hello Trev,
Yes, he was a disco mechanic.....discos here and discos there :lol-053:

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 9, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Only when feathering your own nest



Hello Trev,
It's all done on a wing and a prayer.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 9, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Right im of to bed now for some eggstra sleep.:lol-053::sleep-027:



Hello Trev,
Not very eggciting are you?

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

Trev, you've not got back to me.......I hope you're not egg-noring me.

Rae & Ann


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## trevskoda (Aug 10, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Trev, you've not got back to me.......I hope you're not egg-noring me.
> 
> Rae & Ann



As i lay eggstra long in bed i will eggnore the last comment.:lol-053:


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## trevskoda (Aug 10, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Trev,
> The A10 was infamous for wet sumping if that ball bearing wasn't seated properly and a nightmare for knocking out the timing side bush if the oil wasn't changed regularly.
> 
> Rae & Ann



Thick Mono grade oils did not help, and nowdays timming side roller brg kit helps solve the prp on a10 a arial huntmaster, my mate runs them on 10/40 semi & never any trouble.


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## trevskoda (Aug 10, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Trev,
> Not very eggciting are you?
> 
> Rae & Ann



Shell i jump through hoops for you.


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## trevskoda (Aug 10, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Trev,
> It's all done on a wing and a prayer.
> 
> Rae & Ann



Paul m cartney  bon jovi.


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## trevskoda (Aug 10, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Trev,
> Yes, he was a disco mechanic.....discos here and discos there :lol-053:
> 
> Rae & Ann



Summer nights,must be the heat.


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## The laird (Aug 10, 2016)

At least you guys are staying alive !!!staying alive!!!


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## trevskoda (Aug 10, 2016)

Oh oh oh.


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> i will eggnore the last comment.:lol-053:



Hello Trev,
Is that because omelette smarter than you? :lol-053:

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Shell i jump through hoops for you.



That would be a good eggs-ercise for you.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Paul m cartney  bon jovi.



Egg-ceptionally witty comment.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Summer nights,must be the heat.



Obviously suffered a Saturday Night Fever.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

The laird said:


> At least you guys are staying alive !!!staying alive!!!



We don't want to be dying of the hee Bee Gee bees.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Thick Mono grade oils did not help, and nowdays timming side roller brg kit helps solve the prp on a10 a arial huntmaster, my mate runs them on 10/40 semi & never any trouble.



Hello Trev,
Had the conversion done 20 odd years ago. Having said that with the new billet oil pump that SRM are now producing I'm lead to believe that problem is eliminated.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

Did somebody mention oil at some point? :lol-049::lol-049:
I take full responsibility for mentioning Go to Work on an Egg.

Rae & Ann


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## trevskoda (Aug 10, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Did somebody mention oil at some point? :lol-049::lol-049:
> I take full responsibility for mentioning Go to Work on an Egg.
> 
> Rae & Ann



But if you crash it a lot of money to shell out.


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

Sorry Trev, can't think of any more, my brain is scrambled.

Rae & Ann


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## runnach (Aug 10, 2016)

you have a A10 gold Flash ? I went on when of them once, I dont remember much about it I wasin my mums belly, but perhaps the sounds etc nutured a love and planted a seed. I have a 55 A7 shooting star in bits so your restoration I for one shall follow with interest 

Channa


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

channa said:


> I have a 55 A7 shooting star in bits



Hello Channa,
With you living in Wales engine work will certainly not be a problem; with SRM and the man who started them both in Wales. My A10 is far from original but I've tried my upmost to keep it looking like they were made in 1961. To give you some idea, starting with the engine, I have a Super Rocker head with hardened seats and stainless steel valves, 7 to 1 pistons on R&R conrods, Spitfire cam., the crank has been balanced to 58%, SRM oil pump, SRM timing side bush conversion, SRM pushrods and SRM pressure release valve, SRM magnetised sump kit, electronic ignition, 12 volt alternator, BSA A10 alternator primary chaincases, electric start. The clutch is a Triumph cush drive and an aluminium basket and a mixture of aluminium/steel clutch plates with a SRM pressure plate. The gearbox is an American one with different ratios, it also has a Norton oil filter conversion and that's just the engine spec. I've probably forgotten something along the way.

Rae & Ann


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## Pedalman (Aug 10, 2016)

Ive been told by a good mechanic not to use fully synthetic oil in my 2002 VW T4 2.5 ti because synthetic is very thin oil and if you have any dodgy oil seals the synthetic will find it and leak. 

Im told always to use the manufacturers recommended oil and for my engine it says change it and the filter every 6000 miles.

Also it would be a waste to use very expensive synthetic to throw it away every 6000 miles.

Synthetic oil is meant for modern engines that can go 20,000 miles between services.  Older engines have inferior metals and tolerances and so metal particles get into the oil more quickly because of faster wear, so if you keep thinner synthetic oil in your older engine for long periods it will do more harm than good.

So , in older engines use the manufacturers recommended mineral oil and change it often.


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

Pedalman said:


> it would be a waste to use very expensive synthetic to throw it away every 6000 miles.



Thank you very much for your input. I buy my oil out of Halfords when it is on special and an oil change works out as £15 a time; obviously filter on top so I'm not really too much out of pocket. Interesting point with the oil seals, also there I have no issues, yes there is the damp area round the crank oil seal but certainly not leaving any traces on the floor.

Rae & Ann


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## trevskoda (Aug 10, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Sorry Trev, can't think of any more, my brain is scrambled.
> 
> Rae & Ann



Me to mine is fried.


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

channa said:


> I for one shall follow with interest



Hello Channa,





Bottom end bolted back together again.

Rae & Ann


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## trevskoda (Aug 10, 2016)

Pedalman said:


> Ive been told by a good mechanic not to use fully synthetic oil in my 2002 VW T4 2.5 ti because synthetic is very thin oil and if you have any dodgy oil seals the synthetic will find it and leak.
> 
> Im told always to use the manufacturers recommended oil and for my engine it says change it and the filter every 6000 miles.
> 
> ...


Full syn on old engines can be a wast of money for sure but semi is ok and the lighter lower index number the better because its the first mins at start up that buggers engine esp in cold weather,the top number is there for when you come of high speed run and the bearings are wide open and hot so it will hold pressure,so  10/40 is about right for most engines over 10 years,its did my skoda and tiger cub engines the world of good.


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> mine is fried.



Hello Trev,
Thank heavens for that.......that was over easy.

Rae & Ann


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## trevskoda (Aug 10, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Channa,
> 
> 
> 
> ...



VERY NICE job ,you could have drilled the cam and inter wheel for lightness,i would.


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## trevskoda (Aug 10, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hello Trev,
> Thank heavens for that.......that was over easy.
> 
> Rae & Ann


Yes it was but im on way to bed to put sunny side up.


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## Deleted member 58274 (Aug 10, 2016)

All sounds scary....I presume modern engines 2005 on, can stick with the 10,000 mls/12 mth between oil and filter changes !!  Maja


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> on way to bed



Hope you don't egg-spect to get laid :shag:

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> you could have drilled the cam and inter wheel for lightness



Hello Trev,
Had a Triumph that had that done to it, didn't really make a lot of difference but did look nice.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

maja07 said:


> All sounds scary....I presume modern engines 2005 on, can stick with the 10,000 mls/12 mth between oil and filter changes !!  Maja



Hello Maja,
It seems a very grey area and certainly, for me, this thread has been very interesting and very informative: take from it what you will.

Rae & Ann


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## trevskoda (Aug 10, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> Hope you don't egg-spect to get laid :shag:
> 
> Rae & Ann



Ok as long as i dont have to shell out any money for it.


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## trevskoda (Aug 10, 2016)

maja07 said:


> All sounds scary....I presume modern engines 2005 on, can stick with the 10,000 mls/12 mth between oil and filter changes !!  Maja


As a rule yes if using every day and getting some longish runs in,but if used little or shortish trips now and again change it esp before winter or long lay ups.


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Ok as long as i dont have to shell out any money for it.



I remember saying to the wife in the morning "How would you like your eggs dear?".......she replied "unfertilised".......I don't know what cook book she's been reading.

Rae & Ann


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 10, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> VERY NICE job



If you look closely at the end of the crankshaft you can see where the crank has been drilled and a quill has been fitted as this is the new route for the oil as the bronze bush has been removed and a ball and needle bearing has been fitted in it's place.

Rae & Ann


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## trevskoda (Aug 11, 2016)

streetsleeper said:


> If you look closely at the end of the crankshaft you can see where the crank has been drilled and a quill has been fitted as this is the new route for the oil as the bronze bush has been removed and a ball and needle bearing has been fitted in it's place.
> 
> Rae & Ann



Just wonder has anyone found a alloy block made for these motors.


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 11, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Just wonder has anyone found a alloy block made for these motors.



Hello Trev,
Somebody has cast aluminium barrels but these are for a larger CC conversion.

Rae & Ann


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## runnach (Aug 11, 2016)

one of the significant differences between the A7 and A7ss is the latter had a alloy head 

Channa


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 11, 2016)

channa said:


> alloy head



Hello Channa,
Changed the head from the cast iron Gold Flash to the aluminium Super Rocket head about 20 years ago just as unleaded petrol was coming in; or should I say leaded petrol was going out. Changed to a mk2 concentric carburettor as the inlet was bigger plus, I thought ,the choke system was more efficient than tickling the carburettor.

Rae & Ann


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## trevskoda (Aug 11, 2016)

Well i loved a we tickle now and again.:scared::lol-053:


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## StreetSleeper (Aug 11, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Well i loved a we tickle now and again.:scared::lol-053:



Hello Trev,
Brings to mind, cold night, I was on my Triumph café racer, gave the carburettor a good tickle; in fact I flooded it, kicked it over, it back fired, yes you've worked it out already, no air filter or bellmouth was fitted, boom, carburettor on fire. As it was a café racer, in my wisdom, I had removed the side stand and the main stand to make it lighter (well you did in those days) so I couldn't get off the bike. So there I am fibreglass tank, flames lapping up the see-through plastic reinforced fuel pipe trying to knock the flames out using my leather gauntlets. Fortunately it was just the residue burning and it went out relatively quick but this brought to mind that Jerry Lee Lewis classic Great Balls of Fire.

Rae & Ann


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## trevskoda (Aug 11, 2016)

And what about forgetting to retard the old mags and getting a good kick back,funny how you can suddenly speak fluent chinese.


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