# Leisure battery flattened by fridge!



## MartianTom (Sep 20, 2011)

Hi folks,

I know I'm going to sound really dumb, but I'm a newbie!

I've just got back from my shakedown trip in my MH.  Spent 10 days touring around East Anglia.  Wild-camped for 3 nights, but other than that I stayed on CCC sites.  I'm letting myself in gently, as you can see 

Anyway... before I set off I bought a brand new 85 Ah leisure battery, which was mainly going to be for running the fridge in transit.  I had electrical hook-ups on all the sites, and on wild-camping nights I barely used the 12v at all.

In all, I covered 650 miles driving, and during all of that time the fridge was on.  I got home today and checked the leisure battery - and it's almost flat! 

I set out assuming that the trickle charge would keep the battery topped up, despite the fridge, and that the electrical hook-ups would also provide a charge.  Have I got that seriously wrong?  If so, what can I do to avoid this situation in future?  If I spend more time wilding, then I can't see how I can avoid running the battery flat quite quickly if I'm using the fridge, unless I keep my daily miles to a minimum - which'll be a serious pain when I set off around Europe next summer!

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


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## David & Ann (Sep 20, 2011)

MartianTom said:


> Hi folks,
> 
> I know I'm going to sound really dumb, but I'm a newbie!
> 
> ...



From reading your post, I take it you have no 3 way fridge. Normally you should run your fridge on gas when wilding, on electricity when in a CC and on battery when driving. If you don't have a 3 way fridge, you have a problem. When driving the Alternator should be charging your battery. When on hook up your battery should also be charging. Perhaps some members with more knowledge with battery and electrics will be along to advise you.


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## MartianTom (Sep 20, 2011)

David & Ann said:


> From reading your post, I take it you have no 3 way fridge. Normally you should run your fridge on gas when wilding, on electricity when in a CC and on battery when driving. If you don't have a 3 way fridge, you have a problem. When driving the Alternator should be charging your battery. When on hook up your battery should also be charging. Perhaps some members with more knowledge with battery and electrics will be along to advise you.


 
Thanks for your response.  Yes, it is a 3-way fridge.  It was on 12v only when I was driving.  Average electric hook-up was for 18 hours.  Whenever I parked up or wilded, I put it on the gas.


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## DTDog (Sep 20, 2011)

It sounds to me that the 12v side has been wired up wrong.

The 12v supply should come from the vehicle battery, not the leisure. And should be run through a relay which will only start to work once the engine is running (to allow the alternator to replenish the power taken from the fridge).

If it has been wired wrong and depending on how far you are driving, it might be just as easy to leave the fridge turned off while driving as it will retain it's cold for several hours if the door isnt opened.


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## rienza (Sep 20, 2011)

There quite a lot of items that are 12 volt on a motorhome ie lights, pump, 12 volt TV ? These operate on 12 volt even if you are on hook up but then the battery charger should be constantly recharging the leisure battery whilst hooked up.

Firstly is your battery charger switched on ( refer to manual) and is it set to charge the leisure battery or the vehicle battery?

Having said all that the alternator should have kept the battery topped up when you have done that sort of mileage so you may have a problem.


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## n brown (Sep 20, 2011)

this is quite simple to sort out.as said your fridge should run directly off the vehicle battery via a relay.the relay is there so you can't accidently drain the vehicle battery and only connects to the fridge when the engine is running and the alternator charging.get a smartcom relay from e bay and connect it up as shown,they're easy to fit honest!


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## Firefox (Sep 20, 2011)

If you are on a hook up you are OK, the fridge should work off 240V and your battery should charge as well. But the fridge can flatten your leisure battery overnight if not, and you attempt to use the fridge off 12V. So use gas on the fridge (if available) when wilding.

Having said that, you said the battery was flat after your drive back. Did you leave the fridge on and check it some time after getting back, even a few hours of the fridge on 12V can flatten an 85A battery depending on ambient conditions. The only time the fridge should work off 12V is when you are running and the alternator is working. If it gets cold off 12V when you are stopped and not on a hook up, it shouldn't really be wired like that. It is usually wired off a relay to work when running, the same as your charge.

If it was flat immediately after your drive, check your charging system and leisure battery earth. 

If you are going round Europe and doing wilding I would recommend 2 leisure batteries and a fridge which can run off gas.


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## jezport (Sep 20, 2011)

Are you sure your charger is working?
Your batteries should keep charged from the alternator while driving.


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## n brown (Sep 20, 2011)

where are you?someone in your area might be willing to give it a quick look


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## MartianTom (Sep 20, 2011)

Thanks for all your replies everyone.  All info taken on board.

Here's what I did:

Ran the fridge on 12v whilst driving.

Switched to 240v on each electrical hook-up.

Switched to gas only for wild-camping, and for any stop where I was likely to be away for over an hour.

I understood, as has been pointed out, that the 12v in transit supply comes off the vehicle battery, not the leisure battery, which was why I was puzzled.  As far as I was concerned, I used the leisure battery very little: the water pump (not a huge amount), and very occasional lighting (I have an AA battery-operated reading lamp, which I mainly used).  

I simply can't understand where that charge has all gone.  Interestingly, when I checked the charge level on the day before my return journey (150 miles), it still showed full charge. If, for some reason, the wiring is wrong, and the fridge 12v is coming entirely off the leisure battery... then, considering the total miles for the trip, wouldn't it have gone flat before?


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## n brown (Sep 20, 2011)

your 12v fridge element could be from @ 85w-135w so maybe your charger put enough back in the leisure batt to keep it up for the trip? gawd knows!you'll have to put a meter on the wires connected to the fridge to be sure where the power's coming from.if the voltage goes up when you start the engine then its right and you have a different prob


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## MartianTom (Sep 20, 2011)

n brown said:


> where are you?someone in your area might be willing to give it a quick look


 
I'm in Herne Bay, in Kent.

Just been and checked all the connections - all fine.  I then switched on the 12v and the leisure battery level indicator showed 2/3 charge.  When I switched on the water pump, however, it dropped immediately to 1/3.  Same if I switched on the interior light.  They were both working at vastly reduced capacity, too.

Am I wrong in assuming that a 240v electrical hook-up takes over all electrical functions from the leisure battery? (i.e. water pump and interior light)  The interior light is very bright (though I don't know the exact wattage) and I had it on for a couple of hours on Sunday night - but I had a 240v hook-up that night.


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## n brown (Sep 20, 2011)

2/3 capacity is pretty flat.when you hook up 240,it doesn't take over as such,your inbuilt charger just starts to charge the leisure batt,at what amps i don't know but they're often not very powerful.usually enough though if you start out with a fully charged batt and it's usually being charged off the vehicle or 240v,unless there's some heavy current draw,like a fridge or halogen lights etc. i think every camper owner should buy a cheap test meter,less than a tenner,for testing voltage and continuity


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## Canalsman (Sep 20, 2011)

Do you have a multimeter? If not, you need to get one (at Maplins for example).

You need to be able to measure the voltage at the leisure battery terminals.

Connect the multimeter and then start the engine. The voltage will rise if the battery is being charged from the vehicle's alternator.

Next, stop the engine and connect the 240v hook up. Again observe the voltage. This should again rise if the battery is being charged off the mains.

Your fridge should have a light that shows if it's being run off 12v. This should only light up when the vehicle's engine is running. There is a relay (or should be) that prevents the fridge from drawing 12v from either the vehicle or leisure battery.

Don't be guided by the battery level indicator - they aren't particularly reliable.

Take a look here for some extra info www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm


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## rienza (Sep 20, 2011)

As I asked earlier have you checked that your built in battery charger is switched on and that it is set to charge the leisure battery Martian Tom?

There is usually a switch which allows you to alternate between charging the leisure and vehicle battery. You would normally leave on leisure but could have inadvertently have been switched to charge the vehicle battery.

The switch is very often not obvious.


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## Deleted member 207 (Sep 20, 2011)

I'll preface this with a warning that not all 3 way fridges are wired up exactly the same - it varies according to the make/age of the fridge and also the vehicle builder.

For pre automatic ignition fridges (piezo/push button), they dont need a 12V supply to stay alight on gas, automatic ignition (you hear tick tick when lighting the gas) need a constant 12V supply which comes from (usually) the leisure battery irrelevant of whether the engine is running.

Some vehicle builders wire in the 12V supply to the fridge from the vehicle battery using the vehicle's charge indicator light to switch a solenoid, others use the same system but wire the fridge to the leisure battery - others just wire to the leisure battery without any regard to the vehicle alternator output so its easy to flatten the leisure battery within a few hours.

Some builders install "smart controllers" which sense alternator output or 240V input and then select the appropriate charging circuits.

So we need to know some details about the fridge and the method of recharging the leisure battery to give you a proper answer.


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## Martin P (Sep 20, 2011)

What make is the charger on your van


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## The Grand Wanderer (Sep 20, 2011)

Hi Martain Tom,
CI or Caravan International are part of the Triango Group the same people who make Autotrail. It may be worth while to contact Colin Treacher at in order to aquire a manual for your van's electrical system.

Auto Trail VR Ltd
Trigano House
Genesis Way
Europarc
Grimsby
North East Lincolnshire
DN37 9TU
Tel: +44 (0)1472 571000
Fax: +44 (0)1472 571001


As far as I am able to see the electrics are made by Nord Elettronica 
May be they might send a manual.

However it is vital that you maintain your battery/ies by making sure they are full of acid. Over a period of time the acid evaporates or boils off and you have to refill them with distilled water.  A battery that is dry will not hold its charge neither will it supply a full amount of ampheres or power. It is also important that all batteries are properly earthed, often over time the earth strap corrode and cause resistance, thus inhibiting their ability to charge properly. Also check that all contacts to the relays under the bonnet are clean and corrosion free.
Hope this helps you,
Wanderer


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## MartianTom (Sep 21, 2011)

*Aha!*



The Grand Wanderer said:


> Hi Martain Tom,
> CI or Caravan International are part of the Triango Group the same people who make Autotrail. It may be worth while to contact Colin Treacher at in order to aquire a manual for your van's electrical system.
> 
> Auto Trail VR Ltd
> ...



Thanks for that info, Grand Wanderer.  I contacted Colin Treacher, but he was unable to help given the age of my bus!  Thanks, anyway.

But.... this afternoon I took the leisure battery off to charge it.  I then went out for a drive and noticed that the 12v light on the fridge switch didn't illuminate when the engine was running, even though the switch was on.  This suggests to me that the 12v supply to the fridge was coming off the leisure battery after all, which would certainly account for its going flat so quickly - unless, that is (and I'm displaying my ignorance of electrics here, but so be it!), the leisure battery needs to be connected too to complete a circuit from the vehicle battery.

Seems odd to me that they would wire the 12v side of the fridge up to the leisure battery rather than the vehicle battery.  If that's the case, though, is it a fairly straightforward job to rectify?  Is that Smartcom relay all I need?


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## Canalsman (Sep 21, 2011)

The absence of the leisure battery shouldn't make any difference to the fridge operation when the engine's running.

You now need to replace the leisure battery and see, with the engine switched off, if the fridge 12v light comes on.

If it does, then it isn't wired correctly and is drawing power from the leisure battery.

If you aren't comfortable with rectifying the problem yourself, a visit to a friendly (and recommended and knowledgeable about motorhomes) auto electrician would be advised. A motorhome dealer would also be able to sort this - but try and get a recommendation.

In either case, ask for a quote first ...


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## Firefox (Sep 21, 2011)

On my Dometic model, the supply to the courtesy light in the fridge is on a separate feed from the leisure battery. This is to ensure the light always illuminates, for example when working on gas.

The 12V supplies for refrigeration are thicker cables which are usually wired to the vehicle battery via an ignition actuated relay, or they could be, as in my case, on a manual switch.


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## MartianTom (Sep 21, 2011)

Canalsman said:


> The absence of the leisure battery shouldn't make any difference to the fridge operation when the engine's running.
> 
> You now need to replace the leisure battery and see, with the engine switched off, if the fridge 12v light comes on.
> 
> ...


 
Ah, that's interesting.  No... when the engine was off while I was away, the 12v light went out - even though I left it switched on.  I'm more puzzled now!  Unless, of course, the switch light operates off the leisure battery, whereas the fridge itself operates off the vehicle battery.

There isn't a light inside the fridge.  I fail to see how just 10 days-worth of very infrequent water pump usage (shower used twice only, loo flush never, wash basin and sink once a day) and interior light usage (maybe 4 hours in total) could have run the battery so low - especially as I was driving on average 50 miles a day and was on an 18-hour electric hook-up for 6 nights, including the night before my 150 mile return journey.


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## n brown (Sep 21, 2011)

fitting a smartcom is a case of connecting a wire to the van batterywith an inline fuse ,taking the wire through thr relay and then to the fridge +ve.then a wire from the fridge -ve to the van body. really not a big job and all the wire sizes etc are in the instructions


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## Tbear (Sep 22, 2011)

This may sound daft but you have checked the fluid level in your battery. If its a new van to you, it may have been overcharged which can boil a battery almost dry.

Richard


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## MartianTom (Sep 23, 2011)

*Update...*

Ok... I've spoken to a motorhome repairer who said the cheapest option would be to change the relay.  From my description of the problem, he said it sounds like it's faulty.

I then rang a motorhome repair centre to ask if they stocked said relay.  The chap asked the nature of the problem, and I told him the story.  His diagnosis?  That the battery charger is not working.  Apparently, it's a common fault with the older Ci motorhomes.  

I asked why the fridge 12v indicator didn't come on when the engine was running AFTER I'd removed the leisure battery, and he said that the leisure battery needed to be in place to complete the circuit.  

So, what I now need to do (as already suggested above) is to test the charger by putting a meter on the leisure battery.

QUESTIONS:

Can I do the test simply by having the engine running, or do I need to have an electrical hook-up?

Does anyone know where I might find the charger?  It's a 1995 Ci Sirio.  The electrician suggested I might find it behind the driver's seat, but I can't see a compartment.

If it is the charger at fault, does anyone know where I might get one at a reasonable price (i.e. less than the £450 I've been quoted)?

Thanks again, everyone.


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## n brown (Sep 23, 2011)

a car 12v charger 8 or 10 amp will do the job for 30 odd quid.in case you're not sure,the charger is only for when on hookup to 240v,the 12v charger is the van alternator. if you want to spend more look at smart chargers that can't overcharge the battery. you can test the set up with a car charger anyway.


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## Tony Lee (Sep 23, 2011)

> The absence of the leisure battery shouldn't make any difference to the fridge operation when the engine's running.



Not always
true

See Rogers post.


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## rienza (Sep 23, 2011)

rienza said:


> There quite a lot of items that are 12 volt on a motorhome ie lights, pump, 12 volt TV ? These operate on 12 volt even if you are on hook up but then the battery charger should be constantly recharging the leisure battery whilst hooked up.
> 
> Firstly is your battery charger switched on ( refer to manual) and is it set to charge the leisure battery or the vehicle battery?
> 
> Having said all that the alternator should have kept the battery topped up when you have done that sort of mileage so you may have a problem.



I posted this three days ago. This might still be the problem and it won't cost you a penny if it is.

Perhaps you didn't see the post.


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## MartianTom (Sep 24, 2011)

rienza said:


> I posted this three days ago. This might still be the problem and it won't cost you a penny if it is.
> 
> Perhaps you didn't see the post.


 
Thanks, Rienza, for the reminder.  I did see the original post.  I've yet to locate the charger, but I'll keep looking.  I guess it's either that or the relay.  It certainly seems that the leisure battery is taking no charge at all from either the electric hook-up or the alternator.  The chap who recharged the leisure battery for me said it was as flat as a proverbial pancake.  I used the interior light for about 8 hours_ in total_, the water pump no more than 5 times a day (the longest was 3 minutes for the shower).  Then there was the electric step and the radio (not much for either).  Adding it all up over 10 days, I suppose that would certainly run the battery down low if it wasn't taking _any _charge.

Anyone got any clues about where the charger is likely to be?  I've searched the cab inside out.


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## Canalsman (Sep 24, 2011)

MartianTom said:


> Anyone got any clues about where the charger is likely to be?  I've searched the cab inside out.



Somewhere in the vicinity of the control panel I'd suggest - cupboard or under seat?


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## MartianTom (Sep 24, 2011)

The control panel is above the fridge/hob area, which is behind the front passenger seat.  The only thing I can see under either of the front seats is a thing that looks like a clockwork key (triangular top).  Half a turn anti-clockwise and it comes off.  I can't see what's underneath it.  It's under the driver's seat.  I can't think it's anything to do with the charger.  Maybe it's enclosed behind the control panel.

Anyone else got a '90s Ci motorhome?


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## jogguk (Sep 24, 2011)

MartianTom said:


> The control panel is above the fridge/hob area, which is behind the front passenger seat.  The only thing I can see under either of the front seats is a thing that looks like a clockwork key (triangular top).  Half a turn anti-clockwise and it comes off.  I can't see what's underneath it.  It's under the driver's seat.  I can't think it's anything to do with the charger.  Maybe it's enclosed behind the control panel.
> 
> Anyone else got a '90s Ci motorhome?



Ah! that key may be a battery isolation switch (cut off switch)? May disconnect the leisure batt or even the starter batt?

Added: If the key can be removed then it is 'off' the key on batt isolators are not removable when on.

John


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## rienza (Sep 24, 2011)

MartianTom first you need to locate the switch which directs the charge from the battery charger to either the vehicle battery or the habitation battery. If this is set to vehicle (veh) rather than (hab) then all the charge is going to the vehicle battery hence a flat habitation battery. This switch is normally on your control panel. 

Failing that you need to find the battery charger switch which can be somewhere quite obscure. In our current motorhome it is under the front passenger seat at the side of the leisure battery. In our previous motorhome the leisure battery was under the drivers seat but the switch for the battery charger was under the wardrobe floor accessed via a plastic pull out disc.

Do you have an owners manual? If not, why not phone a CI dealer and ask where the switch is?


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## MartianTom (Sep 25, 2011)

rienza said:


> MartianTom first you need to locate the switch which directs the charge from the battery charger to either the vehicle battery or the habitation battery. If this is set to vehicle (veh) rather than (hab) then all the charge is going to the vehicle battery hence a flat habitation battery. This switch is normally on your control panel.
> 
> Failing that you need to find the battery charger switch which can be somewhere quite obscure. In our current motorhome it is under the front passenger seat at the side of the leisure battery. In our previous motorhome the leisure battery was under the drivers seat but the switch for the battery charger was under the wardrobe floor accessed via a plastic pull out disc.
> 
> Do you have an owners manual? If not, why not phone a CI dealer and ask where the switch is?


 
I've checked the control panel, but cannot see such a switch.

The leisure battery is located in an outside compartment, underneath and to the back of the passenger seat.  As I said, the only thing I can locate under either of the seats is that key.

I've been through the owner's manual from cover to cover and there's nothing about the battery charger.  There's not even a description of the control panel, so I've had to suss that out myself.  I tried ringing Ci, but they were doubtful.  The company, it seems, was bought out by someone else in 1998 - 3 years after my MH was made.

I've done a search online for information about Ci Sirio motorhomes, but it doesn't seem like there were many of them made.  In  fact, most of the search results were for MY motorhome when it was for sale!

Here are a couple of photos showing the control panel:

View attachment 2863View attachment 2864

The main one is the right-hand red switch (left image), which switches on the 12v supply.  The other switches control lights and water pump.  The right image is just indicators showing battery level, water tank level, etc. The central brown rocker switch is the only one I'm not sure about.  It doesn't stay down when I press it, but springs straight back.  It looks to me like it shows level in the waste water tank.  The indicator underneath it comes on when the 240v hook-up is made. The only other switch, not shown, is a large orange rocker switch to the right of the panel. As far as I can see, all this does is switch on the panel indicator lights.  Do you think it might serve another purpose, such as controlling the battery charger?


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## rienza (Sep 25, 2011)

The last 3 motorhomes that we have had have, all had a switch to change the charger from vehicle to habitation but they have all been Auto-Sleepers so perhaps CI don't fit such a switch.

I'm fairly certain that you will have an on/off switch for the battery charger but as I said earlier it may be in a very obscure place and it might not be obvious what the switch is for.

The one I mentioned that was under the wardrobe floor, when you pulled the plastic disc out, there was a red light glowing to show it was switched on. Had it been switched off you would have needed a torch to even know there was a switch there.

Another example is, in our current motorhome, there is a drawer below the wardrobe so you have to open the drawer while the wardrobe door is open then lift out a panel to expose electrical switches for heater elements in the water tanks and drain switch for the Trauma heater etc.

What I'm suggesting is thoroughly investigate your wardrobe.

Happy hunting Martian Tom.


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## MartianTom (Sep 25, 2011)

*Found it... I think!*

Okay... after much searching this afternoon, I finally found this concealed behind a panel under the sink:

View attachment 2866

I assume it's the charger?  I can see no switches on it, but I've checked all the fuses and they're ok.

Anyway, after I found it, something occurred to me.  Don't ask me why I hadn't remembered it before, but not long after I got the van I took it to a nearby campsite one night and hooked it up to the mains - and during the course of the evening I heard a periodic 'ticking' noise coming from under the sink.  I assumed at the time that it was the leisure battery I then had - an old and knackered one - taking the trickle charge.  

While I was away the last couple of weeks, I had several hook-ups - but never heard that sound at all.  I can only think that, because it was a brand new leisure battery, I assumed it wouldn't need to take a charge because the driving would have kept it topped up.  But this got me wondering... was there something else I was doing on that first ever hook-up?  Answer... I think, I _think_, I had the orange rocker switch on the electrics control panel ON.  Now, when  I bought the van, the dealer wasn't sure what this switch was for, but suggested it was just to illuminate the control panel indicators - which it does.  But I'm now wondering if it's the elusive ON switch for the battery charger!  I know, anyway, that I didn't have it switched on at all while I was away.  Here's what it looks like OFF then ON:

View attachment 2867 View attachment 2868

Have I cracked it?  I switched it on during a drive this afternoon, but heard no ticking noise.  I guess an electrical hook-up will tell me one way or another.

I have to say I thought it seemed a mighty big switch just for panel indicator lights!


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## jogguk (Sep 25, 2011)

MartianTom said:


> Okay... after much searching this afternoon, I finally found this concealed behind a panel under the sink:
> View attachment 2867 View attachment 2868
> 
> Have I cracked it?  I switched it on during a drive this afternoon, but heard no ticking noise.  I guess an electrical hook-up will tell me one way or another.
> ...



Would be interesting to know if that switch is duel function like on the old Zig CF8 control panels. ON and the battery charges from EHU. OFF and the battery charges from the engine alternator while driving, 

I think it also kept the engine and leisure batteries connected together on my old VW because the split charge relay was bypassed by a previous owner:mad1:  Because both batteries were close together on my old VW I would connect a jump lead between the two "+" batt terminals while on EHU to make sure the engine batt was fully charged

John


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## rienza (Sep 25, 2011)

Finger and toes crossed Martian Tom. Let us know how you get on please.


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## rienza (Oct 7, 2011)

Did you manage to solve your problem MartianTom and if so what did you do?


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## MartianTom (Oct 7, 2011)

rienza said:


> Did you manage to solve your problem MartianTom and if so what did you do?


 
Hi Rienza - and thanks for thinking of me!  

I recharged the battery, but since then have used it sparingly - and I haven't done a huge number of miles, either.  But I'm going to try to test it this weekend: put a volt meter on with the engine running and with a hook-up.  I have a feeling that the orange switch I mentioned is the one I need to put on with the hook-up.  I don't think, though, that the trickle charge from the alternator can be working properly, otherwise the battery wouldn't have been flat after a 150 mile run with no use.  Unless, that is, 'trickle' means just that!  Is it really just a trickle?  Would it need, say, 1,000 miles to get a full charge?

I'll keep you posted, anyway.  Thanks again.


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## el-D (Oct 9, 2011)

I'm following this thread with interest because I have a similar situation. When I drive and switch the fridge onto 12v, after I've gone a good few miles I get the low voltage warning light on the Zig panel. I have solar panels on the roof which I know are working ok and if I don't use the fridge on 12v all is well, i.e. I can run interior lights all evening without problem from the charge of the day. I guess the only way is to get the vehicle charging circuit checked out by an auto-electrician. At the moment I've taken to running the fridge on gas when I'm driving to avoid the problem. The fridge consumes 130W when it's running so it's a fairly heavy drain if the battery isn't getting replenished by the alternator.


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## MartianTom (Oct 9, 2011)

el-D said:


> At the moment I've taken to running the fridge on gas when I'm driving to avoid the problem.



Is that safe?  I've always been told never to have the gas on when I'm driving... or is that just being over-cautious?


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## rienza (Oct 9, 2011)

That's what I've always thought Martian Tom. We'd not do it.


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## el-D (Oct 9, 2011)

rienza said:


> That's what I've always thought Martian Tom. We'd not do it.


 
The RV we had in the states had no 12v, it ran on gas unless you hooked up to 110v. I think the real risk is minimal though clearly it's not an ideal situation and one that I need to get sorted since there is a 12v on this fridge and it's there to be used.


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## just jane (Oct 10, 2011)

el-D said:


> The RV we had in the states had no 12v, it ran on gas unless you hooked up to 110v. I think the real risk is minimal though clearly it's not an ideal situation and one that I need to get sorted since there is a 12v on this fridge and it's there to be used.


 
I think in the case of an accident the risk would be more than minimal


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## Bigpeetee (Oct 10, 2011)

Naked flames in petrol station. Not ideal??


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## Harbourmaster (Oct 11, 2011)

Petrol stations are full of naked flames, each time a car pulls in, in fact!


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## MartianTom (Oct 11, 2011)

I've had my dabble with naked flames in the past...

...but one by one, they ended up marrying someone else...


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## bodgeitnscarper (Oct 12, 2011)

MartianTom said:


> Thanks for all your replies everyone.  All info taken on board.
> 
> Here's what I did:
> 
> ...


 
Just a quick one on this.
I have an Eldis Autoquest 600 on a 55 plate. I have discovered a couple of things regarding my 12v suppy during our recent 3 week holiday with out any ehu.
We travelled around south England and northern France for our holiday and ran the 3 way fridge on 12v while driving and gas when not. all was well until the last day of our hols when travelling home for 3-4 hours with the fridge on 12v our dashboard stereo started to switch itself off and eventually refused to work full stop. we finished our journey with no tunes. Once back at home I noticed that the hab lights were very dim and things were a bit wacky with the 12v electrics. I got my volt meter out and found the LB to be 10.5v. We have a 100w solar panel and the LB was fully charged before the journey home.

Anyway after recharging the LB via a charger I set about my investigations the following morning.

My findings:-

It would appear that the 12v fridge and the dash stereo run off the LB perminantly ( the fridge only when ignition is on) under the bonnet is a fuse that links the vehicle battery to the LB which when the engine is running keeps the LB topped up and replaces the power drained by the fridge and stereo. What had happened was that the fuse had corroded and made a semi connection across the fuse which had all but failed on the journey home. a fuse change solved the problem. The fuse had not blown just corroded where it would blow in the event of a short etc.

The LB now seems fine after it's traumatic 3 hours where the stereo and fridge were stripping it of power with no backup from the alternator.

I hope this helps someone at some point.

Bodge


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## bodgeitnscarper (Oct 12, 2011)

el-D said:


> I'm following this thread with interest because I have a similar situation. When I drive and switch the fridge onto 12v, after I've gone a good few miles I get the low voltage warning light on the Zig panel. I have solar panels on the roof which I know are working ok and if I don't use the fridge on 12v all is well, i.e. I can run interior lights all evening without problem from the charge of the day. I guess the only way is to get the vehicle charging circuit checked out by an auto-electrician. At the moment I've taken to running the fridge on gas when I'm driving to avoid the problem. The fridge consumes 130W when it's running so it's a fairly heavy drain if the battery isn't getting replenished by the alternator.


 

See my last post on this thread.


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## Bigpeetee (Oct 13, 2011)

I discovered a few years back that I too have several miscellaneous fuses, one in series with the LB, just by the batt, and another in the engine compartment by the charging relay, that's the one that blew for me after some punishment of the LB by using the 2000w inverter, running the batt hard gives a bigger demand from the alternator and constant big loads eventually blew the fuse. Didn't know about it, drove 150 mls expecting the batt to have a good charge only to find that it was as flat as the proverbial pancake.  Stayed on a CL that night and put some charge back into the batt, but 2x110 AH batts need more than 12 hrs on the built in charger to fully recover. It was our last night so I looked at the problem when we got home (it was raining after all, in November so couldn't see in the engine bay - that's my excuse!!)

The fuse in the relay circuit meant that my fridge didn't work while driving. (if we're just out for a weekend, we put a couple of those blue freezer packs into the ice compartment to add to the cooling, in my mind it saves a small amount of gas!!)

It's best to try and find out what all the fuses do and where they are situated. One of mine is hidden behind the voltage control panel.

If you just remove the fuses, clean the terminals and replace, it's amazing how this can reduce the number of "Odd" electrical problems. Especially those in the engine compartment.  My horn also suffers from poor connections, cause I rarely use it, it came as a surprise when I needed it.


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## Lumpendoodle (Oct 14, 2011)

Just a little note to this.  I had a leasure battery die on me due to a corroded connector underneath the motorhome. 

It took a bit of searching and testing of umpteen wires, but all it took to fix was a new connector (and, unfortunately a new replacement leasure battery).  So don't forget to check the continuity of the wiring system.


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