# Waxoyling or Schiltz (sic?)



## Wisewoman (Sep 2, 2016)

Hi there,

I posted a question about waxoyling a couple of weeks ago and got some great replies. I have just been to one of the garages I mentioned and they hoisted my van up and agreed that she is in very good condition given her age (26) and suggested that schiltz (sic?) would be a better option to waxoyl and if the van was his thats what he would do. The guy said it would give more of a rubberised protection and would just cost a little more.

I am happy with the extra cost (another £30 -£40) but does anyone have any opinion on this schiltz stuff compared to waxoyl?


Thanks,
Melissa


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## izwozral (Sep 2, 2016)

My understanding is that Schutz is black Waxoyl which some car enthusiasts prefer because of it's appearance. Whether Schutz is any better I don't know.


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## runnach (Sep 2, 2016)

I tis better IMHO ....waxoyl traditonally has involved drilling into members and the drill holes given time create the problem Schultz meantime offers an external non invasive protection and I suspect the reason the bloke has recommended it 

Channa


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## Jimhunterj4 (Sep 2, 2016)

Only problem with body shutz is you need the area clean, dry, rust free before spraying on and it does not get inside the cavitys where the tin worm problem starts but the waxoyl fed in with the tube will get into even the most smallest of places in where is needed, both are useless if there is any rust issues existing


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## molly 2 (Sep 2, 2016)

Shultz is great for covering rust and crap repairs


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## harrow (Sep 2, 2016)

Wisewoman said:


> Hi there,
> 
> I posted a question about waxoyling a couple of weeks ago and got some great replies. I have just been to one of the garages I mentioned and they hoisted my van up and agreed that she is in very good condition given her age (26) and suggested that schiltz (sic?) would be a better option to waxoyl and if the van was his thats what he would do. The guy said it would give more of a rubberised protection and would just cost a little more.
> 
> ...



No only if the metal is perfect and brand new.

On your van it will look lovely but the rust will be spreading underneath.


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## Wisewoman (Sep 2, 2016)

Hi everyone,

Thanks to all the replies again. It doesn't sound like its a huge 'NO Dont do it!' So i will go with the schutz stuff.  

I'm not going to worry about trapping hidden rust and making things worst scenario and am going with the idea that some sort of protection is going to be much better than no protection!

I had a good look under her when they hoisted her up and she really has never had any welding done on her anywhere, the man said she must have been dry housed for a lot of her life to give her such good bodywork. I'm glowing with pride about my little van -I think shes turned into my third child! lol

Thanks everyone!
Melissa


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## Byronic (Sep 2, 2016)

Schultz is generally used where protection from stone chips and road detritus might be expected, such as wheel arches and fills. Not really intended to be used inside box sections and doors, although if diluted with white spirit to thin it down, a lot of bods do just that.


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## trevskoda (Sep 2, 2016)

Wisewoman said:


> Hi there,
> 
> I posted a question about waxoyling a couple of weeks ago and got some great replies. I have just been to one of the garages I mentioned and they hoisted my van up and agreed that she is in very good condition given her age (26) and suggested that schiltz (sic?) would be a better option to waxoyl and if the van was his thats what he would do. The guy said it would give more of a rubberised protection and would just cost a little more.
> 
> ...


Thats only for under side and wont get in box sections and doors hood etc and thats where the rot starts from .


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## Gerry Attrick (Sep 2, 2016)

@ Wisewoman....

If you want the definitive word on vehicle body rust protection, here is my experience of two such products.

Finnegan's Waxoyl is a brown waxy product that is white spirit based and is best used sprayed via a long, flexible tube into vehicle box sections and the interior bottoms of doors, bonnet and boot/tailgate areas.

Once the white spirit evaporates, a firm waxy skin remains which will shed water and prevent rust (and indeed stop any existing LIGHT rust from getting worse).

Tetra Schutz (there seems to be various similar-sounding Germanic names for this product) is a black, thick, paint-like product that can be applied by brush or spray gun.  It sets to a tough, rubbery texture that is very abrasion-proof and is ideal for wheel arches and underbody areas prone to road-dirt damage.

Ideally, both products should be applied in their respective roles to give total rust protection.

I've used these two products on many good-condition second-hand vehicles, and in two cases where the same vehicles are still in my family's ownership, they're still rust and rot-free 20 years later.

If you contemplate long-term ownership of your van, I recommend these two treatments wholeheartedly !


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## jeffscarborough (Sep 2, 2016)

This is what I have used on mine. Got six one litre tins and a Shultz gun with long nozzle from eBay.
I spent a whole day scraping the factory stone chip off all the metal joints as it was rusting under the stuff.
Then sprayed two tins inside the chassis members, the cills & outriggers. After while I could see the fluid had crept out behind the spot welded joints on the frame.
Next day I sprayed the four remaining cans on the whole of the underside. I masked the exhaust, the brakes and the fuel cooler.
This is a very messy job, I used two disposable overalls and a full face shield from screw fix.
I am very pleased with the results. 


DINITROL ML3125 is a corrosion preventive application fluid with good film building properties for open surfaces as well as for cavities

Very thin oily, greasy flexible fluid which should be used sparingly 

It is capable of good penetration into crevices and joints, preventing further corrosion even on damp or dirty surfaces

Leaves a brown, waxy water-repellent protective film

Stops existing rust

Designed for application into closed cavities such as doors, frame members and exterior joints and crevices. The product can be used for rust-proofing of second-hand cars, trucks, buses and other vehicles 

Thicker cavity waxes are available DINITROL 3654, DINITROLHS 3125 and also clear cavity wax DINITROL 1000

For Technical Data and Material Safety Data Sheets refer to www.dinitrol.co.uk/data_sheets_.aspx

Genuine products supplied from The UK Distributor for DINITROL

Do you see rusty cars nowadays? - No because DINITROL supply over 90% of European car manufacturers & are the main supplier for vehicle rust proofing to Ministry of Defence


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## Byronic (Sep 2, 2016)

That todays cars do not rust (they do but over a much longer time) is mainly down to primary treatments applied directly to the steel itself, such as galvanising/phosphoric coatings and not secondary wax and oil based coatings.


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## trevskoda (Sep 2, 2016)

Byronic said:


> That todays cars do not rust (they do but over a much longer time) is mainly down to primary treatments applied directly to the steel itself, such as galvanising/phosphoric coatings and not secondary wax and oil based coatings.



True but they do help and my 21 year old car proves this,never had the sills welded though a few we bits around front ch legs where there was acc damage when i got her as a 7 year old baby.


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## Deleted member 775 (Sep 3, 2016)

jeffscarborough said:


> This is what I have used on mine. Got six one litre tins and a Shultz gun with long nozzle from eBay.
> I spent a whole day scraping the factory stone chip off all the metal joints as it was rusting under the stuff.
> Then sprayed two tins inside the chassis members, the cills & outriggers. After while I could see the fluid had crept out behind the spot welded joints on the frame.
> Next day I sprayed the four remaining cans on the whole of the underside. I masked the exhaust, the brakes and the fuel cooler.
> ...



look at some 5 year old mercs rusty as hell ,thats the cars ,the vans are chronic they rust and rot at the first hint of rain   as do transits . worst car ive seen lately is one of those toyota aygo  things  that belongs to somebody near me ,its as rotten as a bag of carrots ,both front wings are rusted to hell and the body is pitted with rust all over . waxoil is great to treat a newish car with then a blast underneath with shutz . but on an older motor the waxoil can be a nightmare ,as corrosion  will have definitely set in somewhere ,on the inner box sections the majority of cars/vans rust from the inside out , and once active  will require the attention of the welder at some time , wax oil can and will catch fire if care isent taken ,people welding dread the wax oiled car turning up .


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## trevskoda (Sep 3, 2016)

Well mine did not catch fire when i welded front ch leg ,but i have had 2 scrap men at door in last week asking about it.:scared:.Ferk of shes not dead yet.


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## runnach (Sep 3, 2016)

Read my mind David, my early days in the motor trade I worked with a bodyman who swore by it. It also had the benefit it prevented fasteners becoming seized.

In today's Health Safety & Environmental world, I doubt a commercial organisation could get away with it .

Channa


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## Byronic (Sep 3, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Well mine did not catch fire when i welded front ch leg ,but i have had 2 scrap men at door in last week asking about it.:scared:.Ferk of shes not dead yet.



I'm often setting fire to box section interiors .I make sure I have an extinguisher ready and the garden hose on standby.The welder is on wheels so as to be quickly moved out of the way otherwise it could be a shocking experience!  If you block holes up in box sections the depletion of.oxygen slows any likely fire I'm usually too lazy to bother.
To apply wax oil over large areas I thin it down which means more than one coat required and apply using an electric spray gun gives a perfect finish, and much better than the pump type applicators.


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## Fletch6 (Sep 3, 2016)

I did my Land Rover defender with waxoyl   (thoroughly) and the rust just continued underneath.
Ever since I've sprayed on white grease and that works great. Waxoyl maybe OK on new vehicles but is a waste of time on old vehicles, especially when a garage employee is doing it quickly, just so it looks good.


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## harrow (Sep 3, 2016)

channa said:


> Read my mind David, my early days in the motor trade I worked with a bodyman who swore by it. It also had the benefit it prevented fasteners becoming seized.
> 
> In today's Health Safety & Environmental world, I doubt a commercial organisation could get away with it .
> 
> Channa



I know that Trev soda does not approve of old engine oil but I have a lot of part used 5 litre containers.

I either use them in the lawn mower engine or for what I call "oil can oil" using all the left over oil.

That oil would be good to use in the bottom of doors and box sections.


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## mistericeman (Sep 3, 2016)

harrow said:


> I know that Trev soda does not approve of old engine oil but I have a lot of part used 5 litre containers.
> 
> I either use them in the lawn mower engine or for what I call "oil can oil" using all the left over oil.
> 
> That oil would be good to use in the bottom of doors and box sections.



Old engine is a great preservative for vehicles unfortunately it also degrades rubber components AND is a known carcinogen.... 

Waxoyl USED to be the dogs dangles HOWEVER it's now very old tech and time and technology has marched on. 
Dinitrols range of sprays have much better properties than wax and white spirit and a greater self healing/creep performance. 
I steer away from schutz type coatings unless in high impact areas like under wheel arches etc,as frankly it looks like your hiding something ;-)


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## mistericeman (Sep 3, 2016)

I'm starting to think you could have an argument in an empty room Wints... 
Is it OK for anyone else to actually have an opinion on here or just yourself? 

anyway if you wish to continue slathering old oil on your undersides then please free..... 

I'll continue with something a little more effective thanks.


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## Byronic (Sep 3, 2016)

mistericeman said:


> Old engine is a great preservative for vehicles unfortunately it also degrades rubber components AND is a known carcinogen....
> 
> Waxoyl USED to be the dogs dangles HOWEVER it's now very old tech and time and technology has marched on.
> Dinitrols range of sprays have much better properties than wax and white spirit and a greater self healing/creep performance.
> I steer away from schutz type coatings unless in high impact areas like under wheel arches etc,as frankly it looks like your hiding something ;-)



Likewise old engine oil was the dogs nuts until Waxoyl was developed. 
Engine oil, old or fresh, is only any good if you apply it regularly, and who the hell wants to do that these days. Similar reasons for not using it can be applied to using said oil for bike chain lubing (unless using a Scottoiler), ie the first rainfall washes it off, plus it attracts abrasive road grit. Chainwax is better. 
The anti rust ingredient in Waxoyl is Tannin, as leaches off oak trees and gives puddles under oaks a brown tinge, don't know if a lot of folk know that, or even care!


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## Fletch6 (Sep 3, 2016)

Byronic said:


> Likewise old engine oil was the dogs nuts until Waxoyl was developed.
> Engine oil, old or fresh, is only any good if you apply it regularly, and who the hell wants to do that these days.



That's why I use spray on white grease, it has all the benefits of oil but it stays put.


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## Byronic (Sep 3, 2016)

Eee lad back in the day, we used Hackney Carriage axle bearing tallow, took over from that foreign old fashioned Roman olive oil Chariot Racing Grade muck.


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## trevskoda (Sep 3, 2016)

Old engine oil contains acids which in fact will start rust,anyway mot here requires oil if any to be steamed cleaned of,as others have said there are better products than w/oil like dinitrol but there more costly so to each there own.


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## trevskoda (Sep 3, 2016)

harrow said:


> I know that Trev soda does not approve of old engine oil but I have a lot of part used 5 litre containers.
> 
> I either use them in the lawn mower engine or for what I call "oil can oil" using all the left over oil.
> 
> That oil would be good to use in the bottom of doors and box sections.



Old engine oil as taken out is full of acid water and carbon so whay use it to stop rust?
I to use it around workshop thined with heating oil to free up bolts etc.


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## Gerry Attrick (Sep 3, 2016)

Given the amount  of anecdotal nonsense, old wive's tales and downright confusing silliness posted here by certain bodies in answer to Melissa's query regarding vehicle rustproofing products, I wouldn't be at all surprised if she said ''Sod it, I'll not bother my head with it, it's not worth the aggro....'' !!


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## Byronic (Sep 3, 2016)

There are some weird and mysterious properties associated with oils, worth looking at the difference between spec. GL4 and GL5 gear oils shows why you shouln'tuse GL4 in a GL5 box and vice versa some nasty acids and chemicals will corrode your lovely bronzes and leave you right brassed off. Manufacturers these days are very specific not only on the viscosity but the specific make of oil used in their engines due to the corrosive effect on some of their more esoteric materials.


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## mistericeman (Sep 3, 2016)

Byronic said:


> There some weird and mysterious properties associated with oils, worth looking at the difference between spec. GL4 and GL5 gear oils shows why you shouln'tuse GL4 in a GL5 box and vice versa some nasty acids and chemicals will corrode your lovely bronzes and leave you right brassed off. Manufacturers these days are very specific not only on the viscosity but the specific make of oil used in their engines due to the corrosive effect on some of their more esoteric materials.



This crops up on a regular basis in the landrover world I also inhabit.... 

it was a problem in the early batches of gl5.... I've yet to find anything other than 'pub expert'  type evidence of later batches actually causing any damage at least as far as landrover series gear boxes are concerned.... 

Personally I've used gl5 in all 5 of our series Landrovers for many years and many miles with no sign of excessive wear or damage.... 
Mind some of the other 'Myths' spouted as fact by the same landrover pub experts is frightening lol.


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## Byronic (Sep 3, 2016)

Always seems to be argument on the relative merits and demerits of GL4 and GL5. Possibly by putting the oil grade not specified by the manufacturer will not detrimentally affect some gearboxes and the remainder will be affected detrimentally to varying degrees. The acid affect of these oils is also one of dispute.


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## mistericeman (Sep 3, 2016)

Very possibly....
 I can only however comment from personal experience  on the series landrover side of things... 

I have yet to experience OR find anything more than pub expert type opinion... nothing of actual solid evidence of gl5 causing damage or increased wear to series landrover gearboxes/overdrives. 

Other vehicles I couldn't comment on.  

Although there is little reason not to use gl4 now as it's now freely available again. 

Don't get me started on not using low box on tarmac OR fitting lt77 permanent 4x4 gearboxes into series Landrovers without cv joints in the front axles lol


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## Byronic (Sep 3, 2016)

On tarmac, I'm guessing, but probably a wind up?

And only Karl Benz would know, how it is that a ATF Suffix A Type A ( red dyed Autobox fluid) A is specified as an option for a Mercedes commercial manual gearbox. Mandrake might know he's an MB man I think.


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## trevskoda (Sep 3, 2016)

Not sure on the type of acid  but it is a by product of combustion and most corrosive engineers will say no to using it,but who am i to say if folk wish to do so.:dance:


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## trevskoda (Sep 3, 2016)

mistericeman said:


> This crops up on a regular basis in the landrover world I also inhabit....
> 
> it was a problem in the early batches of gl5.... I've yet to find anything other than 'pub expert'  type evidence of later batches actually causing any damage at least as far as landrover series gear boxes are concerned....
> 
> ...


Iveco say in there service book not to use as it damages the box,but what would they know as they only made the thing.


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## Polar Bear (Sep 3, 2016)

I used to have a customer who brought in his five vintage Rollers and his two 'day' cars for MOTs each year,  He rents them to film companies. All were rust free, some 80 years old.
His method was to spray them with lanolin that he got direct from a fleece [sheep's] company.


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## Byronic (Sep 3, 2016)

Polar Bear said:


> I used to have a customer who brought in his five vintage Rollers and his two 'day' cars for MOTs each year,  He rents them to film companies. All were rust free, some 80 years old.
> His method was to spray them with lanolin that he got direct from a fleece [sheep's] company.



Don't believe it you're just trying to pull the wool over our eyes.


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## mistericeman (Sep 3, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Iveco say in there service book not to use as it damages the box,but what would they know as they only made the thing.




did you actually bother to read the bit where I posted that my only actual experience was with Series Landrovers?


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## Fletch6 (Sep 3, 2016)

I don't know what acids are in old engine oil but my Defender sump and transfer box were beautifully preserved by it


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## Byronic (Sep 3, 2016)

Quite a few 4 x 4s can only be used in 4 x 4 mode off road or gravelly loose type surfaces I seem to recall. On tarmac, little by little they eventually wind up and something in the transmission line will eventually fail and/or tyres will scrub rotate to compensate.


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## Fletch6 (Sep 3, 2016)

Yeah 'diff lock' should only be used on loose surfaces if you're stuck.


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## Deleted member 775 (Sep 4, 2016)

Byronic said:


> On tarmac, I'm guessing, but probably a wind up?
> 
> And only Karl Benz would know, how it is that a ATF Suffix A Type A ( red dyed Autobox fluid) A is specified as an option for a Mercedes commercial manual gearbox. Mandrake might know he's an MB man I think.



tell you the truth i havent the foggiest idea . not realy a merc man ,ive had one or two in the past ,and maintained quite a few ,but they have been the cars not vans .but yes i do believe merc do use the atf a ,in there commercial boxes ,but why i dont realy know and frankly couldent care less,we just serviced to spec . let you into a little secret .very few of my cars ive owned ever get serviced , only ever changed the oil filter and air filter on my old beddy van ,that was looked after like a baby , and exepting one or two of my other cars nothing at all gets done ,except safety related parts , this alahmbra wont see a spanner unless it needs it ,last alambra  dident either ,ran it untill it died 3 years nigh on dident cost a penny in servicing  ,i am a fully payed up member of the dedicated last owners club .there are too many cheap old shitters out there to bother spending unnecessary money on looking after them 3 for sale on our street. nissan almera 350 quid vauxhall vectra 400 sods and a mondeo cannot remember the correct price ,but its notalot. all runners and ticketed .


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## trevskoda (Sep 4, 2016)

mistericeman said:


> did you actually bother to read the bit where I posted that my only actual experience was with Series Landrovers?



Yes sorry sorry sorry:bow::bow::bow::bow:


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## trevskoda (Sep 4, 2016)

mandrake said:


> tell you the truth i havent the foggiest idea . not realy a merc man ,ive had one or two in the past ,and maintained quite a few ,but they have been the cars not vans .but yes i do believe merc do use the atf a ,in there commercial boxes ,but why i dont realy know and frankly couldent care less,we just serviced to spec . let you into a little secret .very few of my cars ive owned ever get serviced , only ever changed the oil filter and air filter on my old beddy van ,that was looked after like a baby , and exepting one or two of my other cars nothing at all gets done ,except safety related parts , this alahmbra wont see a spanner unless it needs it ,last alambra  dident either ,ran it untill it died 3 years nigh on dident cost a penny in servicing  ,i am a fully payed up member of the dedicated last owners club .there are too many cheap old shitters out there to bother spending unnecessary money on looking after them 3 for sale on our street. nissan almera 350 quid vauxhall vectra 400 sods and a mondeo cannot remember the correct price ,but its notalot. all runners and ticketed .


Well i got my soda for £10 when it was 7 years old ,rebuilt it from ground up and service regular,now 303.000 yep now on to its forth time round clock.


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## Deleted member 775 (Sep 4, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Well i got my soda for £10 when it was 7 years old ,rebuilt it from ground up and service regular,now 303.000 yep now on to its forth time round clock.



mabey i am getting old or idle . i used to try and eek out for as long as i could my motors lives ,but now i just cannot realy be arsed . if i buy a car for say a grand at the most with 12 months ticket if it lasted the year  its cost what 20 quid a week  running costs only what is needed by law insurance ,tax , other costs are normal fuel and the like  but you can run up a big old bill looking after a car  , not worth it realy  well not in my eyes ,repairs i dont realy want to be layed out now in the open  arthritis and other bits you know ,and garage fees ,stupid so it runem till there dead and get another .


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## trevskoda (Sep 4, 2016)

mandrake said:


> mabey i am getting old or idle . i used to try and eek out for as long as i could my motors lives ,but now i just cannot realy be arsed . if i buy a car for say a grand at the most with 12 months ticket if it lasted the year  its cost what 20 quid a week  running costs only what is needed by law insurance ,tax , other costs are normal fuel and the like  but you can run up a big old bill looking after a car  , not worth it realy  well not in my eyes ,repairs i dont realy want to be layed out now in the open  arthritis and other bits you know ,and garage fees ,stupid so it runem till there dead and get another .



Thats daft as a new small 4d can be bought for £25/7 a week with 6 years warrenty ,saving your old bones & head from any worries,thats what i will do when i can no longer crawl under the beggers.


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## trevskoda (Sep 4, 2016)

mandrake said:


> mabey i am getting old or idle . i used to try and eek out for as long as i could my motors lives ,but now i just cannot realy be arsed . if i buy a car for say a grand at the most with 12 months ticket if it lasted the year  its cost what 20 quid a week  running costs only what is needed by law insurance ,tax , other costs are normal fuel and the like  but you can run up a big old bill looking after a car  , not worth it realy  well not in my eyes ,repairs i dont realy want to be layed out now in the open  arthritis and other bits you know ,and garage fees ,stupid so it runem till there dead and get another .



Or you could buy the new all electric vw golf,the saving on fuel and parts like ex/pipes filters belts & other service bits excluding brakes will have paid after 8 years,my chum has one and it goes like s--t of a shovel,he has free charging from house solar and the street ones are free to so win win.


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## mistericeman (Sep 4, 2016)

I wouldn't worry about not servicing cars etc....Were not far off vehicles that are sealed for life... Landrover already have models without drain plugs on gear boxes etc. 
Lose your keys on some and it's a full new ecu.... 

As for Electric.... 
cool BUT at just short of £100 a month for battery lease it's not exactly cheap. 

Personally I'll stick to my series Landrovers...cheap and simple to keep going almost forever ;-)


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## runnach (Sep 4, 2016)

mistericeman said:


> I wouldn't worry about not servicing cars etc....Were not far off vehicles that are sealed for life... Landrover already have models without drain plugs on gear boxes etc.
> Lose your keys on some and it's a full new ecu....
> 
> As for Electric....
> ...



I can tell you for fact, mid 80's Fiat had a sealed ceramic engine ...the reason we have never seen it ? ...because the market isnt ready. Instead smaller engined models they used the FIRE engine built in Termoli plant very few employed there. FIRE is fully integrated robotised engine ...lighter fewer components etc ...

I worked for Volvo truck and bus the manufacturer not a dealer. 1999 they had already worked out using satellites, they could control Johnny truck drivers power.....on the flat Norfolk zap 320 bhp thats what you get ....conversley hauling out of Porto I think a 21 km mountain stretch zap 520 bhp ....the saving s in fuel especially for a fleet astronomic.....The technology is robust and there but the market simply not ready 

Channa


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## Deleted member 775 (Sep 4, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> Thats daft as a new small 4d can be bought for £25/7 a week with 6 years warrenty ,saving your old bones & head from any worries,thats what i will do when i can no longer crawl under the beggers.



fine for the ones that a rather small basic car will suffice , not me realy i do need a medium  family car size at least with a decent comfort level .wife daughter two grand kids plus all there trappings including kids seats on the back seats ,sorta  dont have the space i need . then to keep that warranty ,you can run into rather expensive garage bills . also many seem to be on lease rental schemes that allow limited mileage ,i can cover 30k plus a year  not the very small mileage allowances given before you have extra to pay out . plus i can tend to get fed up of a car within a year or so and fancy a change  and the depreciation on a new car is chronic lose too much  plus i hate chucky .


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## Deleted member 775 (Sep 4, 2016)

yes i will stick to my old bangers  . best cars ive found well for my needs are the diesel galaxy Alhambra sharan  type ,seven seats plenty of room ,quite comfy  exelent economy and  quite nippy , with quite good reliability . loads of second hand ones out there for under a grand .will definately be in the market for another if and when this one finally gives up the ghost ,got three years out of my last one plus whip the back seats out and there the sze of a medium size van ,highly usefull for moving big items


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## gypo (Sep 4, 2016)

I don't know why ppl keep saying use used engine oil? It's messy and dirty! You can buy a gallon of cheap engine oil for a few ££ and it does the job a treat, I treat the van a couple of times a year just to build it up a bit on the underside. Also being thin it gets in all the seams.
Get yourself one of those pump garden sprayers from screwfix for £10 they do the job a treat. Also sometimes mix it 70% oil 30% duck oil to get it running easier.
Don't use old smelly engine oil ppl 
G


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## Byronic (Sep 4, 2016)

mandrake said:


> tell you the truth i havent the foggiest idea . not realy a merc man ,ive had one or two in the past ,and maintained quite a few ,but they have been the cars not vans .but yes i do believe merc do use the atf a ,in there commercial boxes ,but why i dont realy know and frankly couldent care less, .



Well to tell you the truth, I connected your WC Forum user name to be the same person using the name Mandrake on a MB Forum some years ago. I wasn't a Member but was just perusing an issue of interest, so happened to read a few posts.. 
But am I correct in assuming you are the one and the same Mandrake?


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## Wisewoman (Sep 4, 2016)

Wow, this threads seen it all!  

With even more potential solutions I'm spoilt for choice!  Whilst i like the idea of coating my van with lanolin, I rather suspect that's pretty expensive stuff but it does sound a bit akin to Cleopatra bathing in milk - as in only for the special - which my van, of course, is.

So tomorrow she gets schultzed. I'm sure that will go some way to helping prolong the bodywork. (sorry van I cant stretch to the sheep extract)


Thanks erveryone,
Melissa


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## trevskoda (Sep 4, 2016)

mistericeman said:


> I wouldn't worry about not servicing cars etc....Were not far off vehicles that are sealed for life... Landrover already have models without drain plugs on gear boxes etc.
> Lose your keys on some and it's a full new ecu....
> 
> As for Electric....
> ...



You buy the battery outright from start and my mate paid cash with 5000 cov hand back and 7 grand from vw for the diesel car he had which they told porkys about so the battery are warrented 7 years so win win again.


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## trevskoda (Sep 4, 2016)

My mate bought outright batterys and all.


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## Byronic (Sep 4, 2016)

On average possibly true. But certainly not necessarily so, I can assure you!


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## mistericeman (Sep 4, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> You buy the battery outright from start and my mate paid cash with 5000 cov hand back and 7 grand from vw for the diesel car he had which they told porkys about so the battery are warrented 7 years so win win again.



Apologies I missed out the bit where I was referring to the Nissan Leaf.... 
It also applies to some of the others... but not the VW case.


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## Deleted member 775 (Sep 4, 2016)

Byronic said:


> Well to tell you the truth, I connected your WC Forum user name to be the same person using the name Mandrake on a MB Forum some years ago. I wasn't a Member but was just perusing an issue of interest, so happened to read a few posts..
> But am I correct in assuming you are the one and the same Mandrake?



100% correct   havent been on that for a good few years , joined when i had the c class ,nice car but bags of trouble with the immobiliser ,and rolling code fob .


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## trevskoda (Sep 4, 2016)

New a chap bought a 40 grand merc and after 18 mth dealer offered him 6g for it with about 9th miles on clock,wheres the sense in that either but it is just the way it works.


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## Deleted member 775 (Sep 4, 2016)

trevskoda said:


> New a chap bought a 40 grand merc and after 18 mth dealer offered him 6g for it with about 9th miles on clock,wheres the sense in that either but it is just the way it works.



anybody buying a new car showroom fresh seem a little short in the marbles dept to me massive depreciation as soon as your name goes on the log book  you dont even have to drive the thing .and 20/30k to park a shiny tin box in the street or tesco carpark just waiting for mr myopic to clout it ,or some spotty oyk to have fun with a screwy down the side ,not for me  cheap run around and you couldn't realy  give a stuff if somebody prangs it or puts fancy wavy lines down its flanks realy 

i had many years ago a vauxhall senator 2.6 dual ram , what a barnstormer that had phenomenal speed  ok she had seen better days  few dings and that but a woman reversed her car into it ,put one or two more battle scars on the plastic bumper ,she got out and was most upset to the point of hysterics the poor woman was distraught and couldn't apologise enough ,so i said calm down no problem i got in touch with her husband on her mobile  he came down and stuck a hundred quid in my hand to cover the damage  his insurance was sky high according to form and dident want them involving   dont think the car cost much more honestly . like i say that sort of motor your not that bothered realy but a new one


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## RichardHelen262 (Sep 5, 2016)

mandrake said:


> anybody buying a new car showroom fresh seem a little short in the marbles dept to me massive depreciation as soon as your name goes on the log book  you dont even have to drive the thing .and 20/30k to park a shiny tin box in the street or tesco carpark just waiting for mr myopic to clout it ,or some spotty oyk to have fun with a screwy down the side ,not for me  cheap run around and you couldn't realy  give a stuff if somebody prangs it or puts fancy wavy lines down its flanks realy
> 
> i had many years ago a vauxhall senator 2.6 dual ram , what a barnstormer that had phenomenal speed  ok she had seen better days  few dings and that but a woman reversed her car into it ,put one or two more battle scars on the plastic bumper ,she got out and was most upset to the point of hysterics the poor woman was distraught and couldn't apologise enough ,so i said calm down no problem i got in touch with her husband on her mobile  he came down and stuck a hundred quid in my hand to cover the damage  his insurance was sky high according to form and dident want them involving   dont think the car cost much more honestly . like i say that sort of motor your not that bothered realy but a new one



If it wasn't for people as you say short of marbles buying new cars where would you get your second hand cars from, and if we are so short of marbles it must make you wonder how we can manage to make the money to buy new


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## Byronic (Sep 5, 2016)

helen262 said:


> If it wasn't for people as you say short of marbles buying new cars where would you get your second hand cars from, and if we are so short of marbles it must make you wonder how we can manage to make the money to buy new



Good points, and I wouldn't mind betting that many's the person running around in an old banger out of necessity rather than choice, (and extolling it's virtues) should they be lucky enough themselves to get a windfall, eg inheritance or lottery win, the first thing they'll do is get a new car, make that rush out.


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## mark61 (Sep 5, 2016)

Got my first ever new vehicle this yesr, so many thanks to all those that have bought new since the late 70's.


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## maverickuk (Dec 15, 2016)

its all rubbish unless the vehicle is new and hence will seal properly, otherwise its a waste of money and will let water in through all sorts of gaps in the sealant. The best bet by far, and still after many decades, is old engine oil through a sprayer. Thin it with parrafin. Oh and dont smoke for a few hours after


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