# Paintwork mopping



## campervanannie (Apr 6, 2018)

To be honest I have never heard of it and had no idea that a brake problem could cause hot rust dust to circle the back of the vehicle when driving and melt into the paintwork and turn it yellow I am told you have to have the paintwork mopped, so has anyone had thus done do you have any recommendations distance no object (and no the man in Australia is a no go lol ) but within a 200 mile radius of Yorkshire I can handle but the nearer the better.


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## harrow (Apr 6, 2018)

campervanannie said:


> To be honest I have never heard of it and had no idea that a brake problem could cause hot rust dust to circle the back of the vehicle when driving and melt into the paintwork and turn it yellow I am told you have to have the paintwork mopped, so has anyone had thus done do you have any recommendations distance no object (and no the man in Australia is a no go lol ) but within a 200 mile radius of Yorkshire I can handle but the nearer the better.


Car bodywork repair place will be the people to advise you, they will be used to doing that work, blending new paintwork with the old paint.

:hammer::hammer::hammer:


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## trevskoda (Apr 6, 2018)

Simple thing to do,the tool looks like a large angle grinder but has a sponge wheel on it tuning much slower,a cutting past such as g3  6 or 7 is used along with water to stop burning and keep wet  paste on mop.
I will also say that sum times the paint may be burnt to deep and only cure is rub down and respray top coat.
I did some thing sim when grinding near a car which burn the w/sheild to which i had to replace,hope it is a simple job for you which should take about one hr,can be done by hand though will take a bit longer.


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## Tezza33 (Apr 6, 2018)

A good bodyshop will be able to test the thickness of the paint and see if it is possible to mop it, it is very easy to burn through the paint if it is thin (motorhomes usually are) or if there are curves on it, if not there are other ways of removing which isn't as abrasive, I used a product which you spray on, it isn't sold for that purpose but as I had some I tried it and it worked, I will post a link when I get on my computer


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## trevskoda (Apr 6, 2018)

Farslea compound past is what the m/trade use.


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## Tezza33 (Apr 6, 2018)

trevskoda said:


> Farslea compound past is what the m/trade use.


I think you mean Farecla Trev
Farecla G3 Advanced Liquid Compound 500ml Bottle Car Polishing | eBay
This is the liquid which is finer


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## maingate (Apr 6, 2018)

I would first try with ordinary Polish to see if that makes a difference. I have got Farecla G3 compound and have used it (by hand). However, if I need to bring the shine back to the paintwork, I will use a finer, less abrasive one. I believe that professionals use something finer than G3 on motorhomes.


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## Tezza33 (Apr 6, 2018)

maingate said:


> I believe that professionals use something finer than G3 on motorhomes.


G3 comes in different compounds Jim including a very fine one, have a look hereI used G10 on mine but it is more of a polish than a compound but can be applied by hand

This is what I use to get the marks off mine Annie, It is called Auto Finesse Iron Out remover, I had bought it for iron removal after a few grinding sparks landed on the car, I bought it from Amazon, after after finding the order I have just read it is used for brake dust removal as well
Auto Finesse Iron Out iron remover, 500 ml: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike



> Product Description
> 
> Reactive iron fallout removers are one of the coolest new products to hit the detailing industry in recent years, and Auto-Finesse Iron Out is our addition to this important decontamination stage. Iron fallout (*Also called ‘Rail Dust’, though most of it comes from vehicle brakes.*) is a growing problem due to industry, mass transit, and increased traffic levels. These tiny pieces of ferrous shrapnel can imbed themselves into practically any surface, and if left unchecked will begin to corrode. Auto-Finesse Iron Out targets and dissolves these particles before significant damage to your vehicle can occur. Auto-Finesse Iron Out is an advanced, pH neutral, reactive gel formula that specifically targets only iron-based contamination. Unlike the harsh acids often used by body shops to remove imbedded ferrous particles, the only thing that has to be afraid of Iron Out is iron! It is suitable to use on all exterior surfaces, including paintwork, aluminium, magnesium, stainless steel, anodized finishes, chrome, glass, plastic, and even rubber. Iron Out also contains strong degreasing agents to help loosen road films, making it a powerful force in the decontamination process.


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## maingate (Apr 6, 2018)

Tezza33 said:


> G3 comes in different compounds Jim including a very fine one, have a look hereI used G10 on mine but it is more of a polish than a compound but can be applied by hand
> 
> This is what I use to get the marks off mine Annie, It is called Auto Finesse Iron Out remover, I had bought it for iron removal after a few grinding sparks landed on the car, I bought it from Amazon after after finding the order I have just read it is used for brake dust removal as well
> Auto Finesse Iron Out iron remover, 500 ml: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike



I do apologise Terry, this is what I have been using.

Farecla Gel Coat Restorer & Wax 500ml: Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Outdoors


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## campervanannie (Apr 6, 2018)

Tezza33 said:


> G3 comes in different compounds Jim including a very fine one, have a look hereI used G10 on mine but it is more of a polish than a compound but can be applied by hand
> 
> This is what I use to get the marks off mine Annie, It is called Auto Finesse Iron Out remover, I had bought it for iron removal after a few grinding sparks landed on the car, I bought it from Amazon after after finding the order I have just read it is used for brake dust removal as well
> Auto Finesse Iron Out iron remover, 500 ml: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike



What worries me is a Motorhome’s skin is completely different to a car so I either have to pay for a professional or do it ourselves but finding the correct product to do it by hand absmall bit at a time I have found a guy in Preston who will look at it and do a patch test and also one in Consett so I may drive next week to one of them and see what they say.


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## Tezza33 (Apr 6, 2018)

campervanannie said:


> What worries me is a Motorhome’s skin is completely different to a car so I either have to pay for a professional or do it ourselves but finding the correct product to do it by hand absmall bit at a time I have found a guy in Preston who will look at it and do a patch test and also one in Consett so I may drive next week to one of them and see what they say.


The other product I gave a link to works by just spraying it on, I used it to clean the car and as you say a motorhome paint is different but this will not harm paint of any type, for £12 it is worth trying (IMHO)


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## RichardHelen262 (Apr 6, 2018)

I have done hundreds of them over the years first of all you need to get a good fall out remover spray it with that first,  as it should remove most of it.
Make sure whoever does your mopping has had plenty of experience as I see so many bad attempts leaving bad swirls.
But firstly buy some bilthamber fall out remover, eBay is most likely the best place to find it.


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## Tezza33 (Apr 6, 2018)

helen262 said:


> I have done hundreds of them over the years first of all you need to get a good fall out remover spray it with that first,  as it should remove most of it.
> Make sure whoever does your mopping has had plenty of experience as I see so many bad attempts leaving bad swirls.
> But firstly buy some *bilthamber fall out remover,* eBay is most likely the best place to find it.


I agree about the Bilthamber as it is the same type of stuff in the link I put, it is brilliant and simple to use
Korrosol | Fallout Remover | Paint Surface Protection  - Bilt Hamber


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## campervanannie (Apr 6, 2018)

So far 3 different products and now how to I decide which one to try as I am just confused now so I have ordered the G3 stuff and the finesse stuff to try a patch test on all the adds for these products it only ever shows them being used on fancy alloy wheels.
Aaaaagh


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## Nabsim (Apr 6, 2018)

I did think about saying to use a clay bar on it but seeing as doing the full 3 parts on a car took me all weekend a mh would be impossible.

Any paintwork/body shop as said and get them to mop it, it’s an amazing difference when you have it done but not something to do very often


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## RichardHelen262 (Apr 6, 2018)

They show it being used on alloy wheels because that is where most of the iron fall out from brakes lands, but don’t worry just spray plenty of it on the paint work and leave it, it will turn purple and start running down the body work, at this point you might want to hold your nose,as it smells worse than anything you have ever smelt before after 10 mins or so rinse it off before washing.


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## RichardHelen262 (Apr 6, 2018)

Nabsim said:


> I did think about saying to use a clay bar on it but seeing as doing the full 3 parts on a car took me all weekend a mh would be impossible.
> 
> Any paintwork/body shop as said and get them to mop it, it’s an amazing difference when you have it done but not something to do very often



I did mine when I first got it and it took over a week to do, I don’t know how much a body shop would charge, but detailers  doing a car charge around a £1000


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## wildebus (Apr 6, 2018)

If you have paint damage due to metal sparks, it is unlikely polishing the paint will actually do much, sorry to say.

The first step I would go for is along the lines of Tezza33's suggestion - an Fall Out remover.  This will help remove tiny metal particles from paintwork.  quite a few around at very variable prices.  I use AutoSmarts imaginatively named "Fall Out Remover" - cheapest around and does the job without the special effects of "purple rain" and similar.

I would also if doing the job youself not be automatically tempted by 'what the professionals use' - professionals doing machine polishing have the tools to first check what they can get away with (using a PTG - Paint Thickness Gauge), and then use as agressive a polish they can to get the work done as quickly as possibly - replicate that without the experience and you are into the respray territory.  Farecla G3 is a very harsh polish and I personally - although I have a PTG, Machine Polishers and some experience - stay away from it!  I use the 3M Perfect-it Products as much more forgiving and predicatable and they've always worked for me 

PS - not sure it anyone has said it, but if you were wondering, "Mopping" is a term based on using a "MOP" aka *M*achine *O*rbital *P*olisher.  You might also come across a term about using a "DA" on the paint?  DA being a Dual Action Polisher  (they are slower than a MOP but also safer so popular for home enthusiasts - I can't use them as they vibrate so much they give me the tingles so I stick to the MOPs)


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## Deleted member 71750 (Apr 6, 2018)

Hi Annie, just a thought. I believe the outer skin of the rapidos is fibreglass rather than aluminium ( mine certainly appears to be). If that is the case the finish is most likely Gel-Coat rather than paint. That said, I did give mine a complete machine polish (mopping) using G3 with no ill effects (Dull through lack of attention by the previous owner)


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## Tezza33 (Apr 6, 2018)

Nabsim said:


> I did think about saying to use a clay bar on it but seeing as doing the full 3 parts on a car took me all weekend a mh would be impossible.


I used to use a clay bar for detailing but it was hard work on a small car so I didn't bother to mention it, when I was in the trade there was all sorts of tips and tricks but I can't remember many of them so I am effectively learning again with new products, I used the Auto Finesse iron remover yesterday on the BBQ I was selling to next door, before I used it I was going to give it to them but he has just offered me £40, I sprayed it on and left it and as helen262 said if there is metal or brake dust present it turns purple, I rinsed it later and gave it a final wash and then wished I hadn't bought a new one :mad1:,


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## Welsh will (Apr 6, 2018)

campervanannie said:


> To be honest I have never heard of it and had no idea that a brake problem could cause hot rust dust to circle the back of the vehicle when driving and melt into the paintwork and turn it yellow I am told you have to have the paintwork mopped, so has anyone had thus done do you have any recommendations distance no object (and no the man in Australia is a no go lol ) but within a 200 mile radius of Yorkshire I can handle but the nearer the better.


Personally if fillings are in your paint work the last thing i would be doing is buffing/mopping it. The fillings are going to attach to your rubbing compound then scratch the rest of your paint work. I would use a special chemical called TR.IX by CarPro you can purchase off ebay which will dissolve the fillings before you wash it off normally then polish. Have attached a pic of the product and its around £15. Will also try and attach a link if i can figure that out. 
This stuff is really good and will dissolve the fillings in front of your eyes. Must wash it off though within 5 mins 

CarPro Trix 500ml - Tar & Iron Remover Trix 500ml  | eBay


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## runnach (Apr 6, 2018)

Annie if you get stuck I have a bodyshop in Leeds that can do it and work high end stuff as well as bread and Butter (Porsche Ferrari) and a truck body shop. Years ago when god was a lad we had a boat load of cars that were burnt by electrics on a train overhead cables, 

In fairness people are making it sound difficult to sort and sometimes a respray can be the answer,,,then it boils down to the painters ability to tint and blow in (anyone can spray) I also have a lad that possibly do it at your home did no end of work for me 

Channa

PS the trade use Faracla for a reason and not Halfords specials they are cutting compounds and wrong hands / inexperienced results are a disaster


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## molly 2 (Apr 6, 2018)

Annie take it to your nearest Fred the shed body shop and ask him to take a look  he will probably walk out with his mop  and give it a quick polish  job done .I say fred the shed  because you will talk to the body man, not a receptionist  that knows everything about nowt.have a word with your mechanic he may advice someone .the result from a mop polish can be amazing .


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## runnach (Apr 6, 2018)

molly 2 said:


> Annie take it to your nearest Fred the shed body shop and ask him to take a look  he will probably walk out with his mop  and give it a quick polish  job done .I say fred the shed  because you will talk to the body man, not a receptionist  that knows everything about nowt.have a word with your mechanic he may advice someone .the result from a mop polish can be amazing .


I am smiling the bodyshop I mentioned despite painting exotica is like the black hole of Calcutta that's what we called it ! I often teased the owner "nice job John any chance next time cover the beard "

For the very reason you mentioned the owner is body / paint man  great minds think alike 

Channa


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## molly 2 (Apr 6, 2018)

channa said:


> I am smiling the bodyshop I mentioned despite painting exotica is like the black hole of Calcutta that's what we called it ! I often teased the owner "nice job John any chance next time cover the beard "
> 
> For the very reason you mentioned the owner is body / paint man  great minds think alike
> 
> Channa


the truth is if it's a lambo  or  fiesta  the paint comes out of the same  gun  .just the bill that is different .


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## RichardHelen262 (Apr 6, 2018)

molly 2 said:


> the truth is if it's a lambo  or  fiesta  the paint comes out of the same  gun  .just the bill that is different .



The difference is in which paint comes out of the gun


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## campervanannie (Apr 6, 2018)

I have put photos up so you can see what I mean and it is only the back panel and a tiny bit on the offending wheel arch


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## Welsh will (Apr 6, 2018)

campervanannie said:


> View attachment 62516
> 
> View attachment 62517
> 
> ...


See my reply.....this stuff will deffinatly clear that and its something that you can do yourself. Used it myself many times, just might take a few sprays and washes to fully clear it


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## molly 2 (Apr 6, 2018)

helen262 said:


> The difference is in which paint comes out of the gun


 Not really it is all mixed by the paint company from base colours that can match any colour


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## RichardHelen262 (Apr 6, 2018)

I am sure that the products you have already ordered will sort most of that out, if not then fetch it over to mine when I get back from Spain and I will see what can be done.
Richard


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## molly 2 (Apr 6, 2018)

If you want to have  a play pick a place that can't be easily seen put your finger in a cloth dip it in some t cut and give it good  rub  it may come off .


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## RichardHelen262 (Apr 6, 2018)

molly 2 said:


> Not really it is all mixed by the paint company from base colours that can match any colour



Just like if you go into B&Q there are lots of different quality paints at different prices, just the same with car paints can vary from £10 per litre to a decent one at £60 per litre to some top quality running into £100+ Per litre.
As the saying goes you get what you pay for


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## molly 2 (Apr 6, 2018)

helen262 said:


> Just like if you go into B&Q there are lots of different quality paints at different prices, just the same with car paints can vary from £10 per litre to a decent one at £60 per litre to some top quality running into £100+ Per litre.
> As the saying goes you get what you pay for


sure there are variations in prices  due to different tints and metals lacquers and brands .a good. Painter is more than  competent to paint any car whatever badge it has  .


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## wildebus (Apr 6, 2018)

there is a lot of variation in paints over brands and colours and members of this forum will have vehicles covering the full spectrum of types as well as colours - and it is useful to know what to expect.

taking two extremese ...
Japanese Paint is VERY soft - it took me around 5 minutes to polish out all the swirls on my 2004 RAV4 


Swirls by David, on Flickr  

Polished by David, on Flickr

Whereas German Vehicles have VERY hard paint - it took ages to get just half the bonnet on my 2000 T4 to get a shine to it again


photo1 by David, on Flickr
and being single-stage, takes the paint off in the process 


photo5 by David, on Flickr
If you saw colour like that on a pad after polishing most newish vehicles it could well be time to be very worried!
I usually use 2-stage water-based paint with an ISO 2k topcoat, but many sprayers use non ISO topcoats (nicer to the environment but harder to get a shine). But for older vehicles, especially those that may have seen the end of a repair spray gun like that T4, I go for Cellulose paint as it is much easier to blend in to the surrounding area on old flat paint. (what part of the area below has been repainted and what is original?)


image_21 by David, on Flickr 


Just posting the above to say it is not just a matter of nipping down to Halfords and getting a can of "Fiat White" or whatever for a repair - need colour-code with matched variation (for a single given colour code, there can be variations into double figures), paint type (water, solvent and cellulose are all ones I use), Clearcoat types, etc, etc.


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## runnach (Apr 6, 2018)

In the case of this van PPG will have the paint eg Bianca white etc 224 colour code ... Any half trained chimp can spray now ...the secret is in tinting (that is what you are paying for ) and the painter deciding how much to feather and blow in 

Channa


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## Canalsman (Apr 6, 2018)

campervanannie said:


> View attachment 62516
> 
> View attachment 62517
> 
> ...



Use of abrasive products will have to be done with great care because of the decals.

They will be damaged by such products.

I would definitely try the chemical removal approach first. I think you will find a warning not to use the product on plastic items so you would be advised to mask the decals or avoid them.


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## Nabsim (Apr 7, 2018)

channa said:


> In the case of this van PPG will have the paint eg Bianca white etc 224 colour code ... Any half trained chimp can spray now ...the secret is in tinting (that is what you are paying for ) and the painter deciding how much to feather and blow in
> 
> Channa



I think you are being very generous to chips there 

The majority of people are quite useless at most things in my experience and lacking in basic common sense, you get a lot who say they can do things but when you actually see a sample f their work its another matter. It needs meticulous preparation or it isn't going to work.Saying that some people can read a few articles, pick up a spray gun and do a cracking job but thats a small number.

I missed some posts in the middle of the thread, did it turn out it does need layers removing or rubbing back to metal? If anyone doesn't know the clay bar treatment does not remove paint like T-Cut and can be used again and again (if your muscles will cope with it) It gives stunning results but is very hard work. I have used T-cut and that can give great result as well but it is a cutting compound like the mop so you do need to be careful as it is removing layers of paint. If you T-cut you really need to finish with a good polish or protective coating to protect the remaining paint.

I am not a paint person, over the years like a lot here I think I have had a go at all sorts. I have some knowledge and I have some skill, unfortunately they are mainly on different subjects though haha

If you haven't seen it here is a clay bar kit, be warned it took me a full weekend to do a type B Vectra. looked stunning afterwards though I must admit: Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike


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## campervanannie (Apr 21, 2018)

*Update*

Thanks to Tezza33 we are now spending this weekend with the products you recommended G3 stuff using the method you recommended by hand and the first go at it looks to be a marked difference but a long way to go yet.



Don't know if you can see but we have done half the back panel.


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## Wully (Apr 21, 2018)

You can see a big difference already you learn something all the time.Ive been up cleaning my 2 acre roof what a difference then I’ll go camping in the rain next week get it nice and dirty


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## Admin (Apr 21, 2018)

campervanannie said:


> Thanks to Tezza33 we are now spending this weekend with the products you recommended G3 stuff using the method you recommended by hand and the first go at it looks to be a marked difference but a long way to go yet.
> 
> View attachment 62827
> 
> Don't know if you can see but we have done half the back panel.



It does look better Annie.

Is it removing the shards of metal that are burnt into the panels, or is it just removing the rust? Can you now see that the shards are gone?


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## campervanannie (Apr 21, 2018)

Admin said:


> It does look better Annie.
> 
> Is it removing the shards of metal that are burnt into the panels, or is it just removing the rust? Can you now see that the shards are gone?



Some of the shards are still there but it has removed all the tiny ones I think it may need 2/3 goes at it 



Meanwhile pensioner abuse is still going on in West Yorkshire


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## wildebus (Apr 21, 2018)

Looks good.

I would suggest binning any pads and cloths used in this process once done to avoid them being picked up and used for anything else as they are likely to contain metal fragments, even if just microscopic, and you don't want to be doing any polishing with that contamination.

Also worth masking off that light fitting  (or even better - removing it) when polishing the next bit


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## campervanannie (Apr 21, 2018)

It has taken all day to get a lot of it off but you can still see some so I reckon another couple of goes at it then we will see what it looks like then, I may be looking for more advice then but for now it's working.


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## campervanannie (Apr 21, 2018)

Chainsaw Charlie said:


> My ex father in law used to valet cars and when the work was going on to the Tamar bridge hundreds of cars were constantly being damaged by hot metal burning into the paint which kept him very busy!
> He used to use some kind of chemical that lifted the metal from the paint, many cars were damaged several times and some were so bad they had to be resprayed .
> I wonder what product he used ?



I have bought some of the stuff that does that but I am getting the bulk off with the G3 stuff first then got some of the purple rain stuff that was recommended to get the stubborn shards off but it's going to take time .


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## trevskoda (Apr 21, 2018)

campervanannie said:


> I have bought some of the stuff that does that but I am getting the bulk off with the G3 stuff first then got some of the purple rain stuff that was recommended to get the stubborn shards off but it's going to take time .



Make sure you use water to keep the mop wet when using g3,a spray bottle will work.


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## campervanannie (Apr 21, 2018)

trevskoda said:


> Make sure you use water to keep the mop wet when using g3,a spray bottle will work.



Yes that's what I did I kept a spray bottle of water and just kept spraying as we went and we did it in 1ft square patches and washed it down well at the end making sure no streaks or powdery residue was left for a first got  it looks quite good.


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## campervanannie (Jun 23, 2018)

*Thread update*


Finally got round to using the finesse stuff that cleans the rusty chards out of the paintwork well it worked a treat taken us most of the day doing one small area at a time but the end result is a white rear end.


Meanwhile pnsioner abuse continues in W Yorkshire and here’s a bit of secondary abuse


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## Nabsim (Jun 23, 2018)

You are polishing it or putting a polymer protection coat on after aren’t you Annie? Needs some protection


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## campervanannie (Jun 23, 2018)

Nabsim said:


> You are polishing it or putting a polymer protection coat on after aren’t you Annie? Needs some protection



Yes that’s tomorrows job.


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## trevskoda (Jun 23, 2018)

See annie you learn new things every day of your life,keep going me girl,top notch work.


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## Tezza33 (Jun 23, 2018)

campervanannie said:


> Finally got round to using the finesse stuff that cleans the rusty chards out of the paintwork well it worked a treat taken us most of the day doing one small area at a time but the end result is a white rear end.


It is great for cleaning alloy wheels as well Annie, stronger than wheel cleaner and leaves them shiny.

It isn't cheap stuff but you must have saved a lot of money by not taking it in to a professional, and at least the hard work was done by Bill and not you
Result


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## campervanannie (Jun 23, 2018)

Tezza33 said:


> It is great for cleaning alloy wheels as well Annie, stronger than wheel cleaner and leaves them shiny.
> 
> It isn't cheap stuff but you must have saved a lot of money by not taking it in to a professional, and at least the hard work was done by Bill and not you
> Result



I did the finesse stuff he gave the van a good scrub down after to make sure it was all washed off so now just a polish saved over a hundred quid doing it myself so thankyou to all who helped and advised along the way .


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## Tezza33 (Jun 24, 2018)

campervanannie said:


> thankyou to all who helped and advised along the way .


There was a lot of advice but it was mostly about the same product under a different name, we all have our favourites but any of them would have worked so good advice all round


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