# Fiat Ducato rear indicator



## runnach (Jan 22, 2010)

Hi, 

I treated the van to a wash yesterday by hand which may be a coincidence.

However the rear N/S rear indicator doesnt work ...the bulb seems fine which me thinks possibly a bad earth.

The wiring is all lumped together in conduit and far beyond me to start splitting.

Has anyone had a similar problem ? and is there a simple answer without resorting to major surgery in the factory loom ? 

Channa


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## rickboy (Jan 23, 2010)

Take an earth lead from the number plate light or other light in the group.

Rick


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## runnach (Jan 23, 2010)

A quick update, I have removed the bulb holder, and the earth lead had corroded and come away. I have removed the corroded spade connector and cleaned the wire but on contact the bulb doesnt light !!.

I really dont want the expense of replacing the bulb holder, I know that for example the rear lamp has a good earth because it lights up.

Am I right in thinking if I run a wire from that spade connecter to the negative part of the bulb holder all should work ? 

Thanks in advance 

Channa


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## Boxerman (Jan 23, 2010)

channa said:


> A quick update, I have removed the bulb holder, and the earth lead had corroded and come away. I have removed the corroded spade connector and cleaned the wire but on contact the bulb doesnt light !!.
> 
> I really dont want the expense of replacing the bulb holder, I know that for example the rear lamp has a good earth because it lights up.
> 
> ...


I must be in thicky mode because I can't quite grasp what you mean 
Is the spade connector a male one attached to the bulb holder or female attached to a wire?
Any chance of a photo?, alternatively, is you Ducato the "Boxer type" before the new shape? if so I'll nip out and have a look at mine.

Frank


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## runnach (Jan 23, 2010)

Thanks Frank just tried my theory and it doesnt work !!!!...So scratching my head now !

Channa


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## derekfaeberwick (Jan 23, 2010)

channa said:


> Hi,
> 
> I treated the van to a wash yesterday by hand which may be a coincidence.
> 
> ...



 Don't assume, swap it with a known good bulb, brake light perhaps, and take it from there.


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## runnach (Jan 23, 2010)

Swapped the bulbs Derek and it still doesnt flash.

I will try and take a couple of photos so folk can see, rather than try and explain.

Channa


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## runnach (Jan 23, 2010)

A couple of photos which perhaps better explain my plight.

First an outside shot of the lamp so you can see what model it is







A shot of what I assume is the earth wires for the relevant lamps the blue wire is the one which has deterioated.






And finally the bulb holder , the bulb holder to the right is the rotten one , it should look like the red and yellow ones.






I have swapped, and re swapped bulbs, what I cant understand is it seems the spade is part and parcel of the metal part that makes contact with the bottom of the bulb. the broad metal strip I am assuming is the positive part of the circuit and makes contact with the side of the bulb. So far I have tried r blue wire and then after that failed piggybacking a wire from the terminal to the adjacent earth spade but it still doesnt  work...the adjacent spade is ok, because the taillights work.

I hope this helps and thanks again in advance 

Channa


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## bigboack (Jan 23, 2010)

Is the front Ns indicator working. Have you checked this out.  Back to the rear ns have you a test meter to see if you have voltage there.  worth checking first, It could be something under the bonnet ie a realy / blinker unit. can you heare a clicking noise under the bonnet.


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## Boxerman (Jan 23, 2010)

channa said:


> A couple of photos which perhaps better explain my plight.
> 03-10.jpg[/IMG]
> 
> And finally the bulb holder , the bulb holder to the right is the rotten one , it should look like the red and yellow ones.
> ...


 It looks to me that the black (to the side of bulbs) wire is earth and the others (to the centre) are the live feeds.

What I would do:
solder a short length of wire to the sprung metal centre contact and crimp a male spade terminal to the end of it. 
Crimp a new female spade terminal onto the end of the relevant wire (blue?) then join the two together.

HTH

Frank


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## runnach (Jan 23, 2010)

bigboack said:


> Is the front Ns indicator working. Have you checked this out.  Back to the rear ns have you a test meter to see if you have voltage there.  worth checking first, It could be something under the bonnet ie a realy / blinker unit. can you heare a clicking noise under the bonnet.



Yes but flashing rapidly, also on the dashboard which first alerted me to having a problem.

Channa


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## runnach (Jan 23, 2010)

Boxerman said:


> It looks to me that the black (to the side of bulbs) wire is earth and the others (to the centre) are the live feeds.
> 
> What I would do:
> solder a short length of wire to the sprung metal centre contact and crimp a male spade terminal to the end of it.
> ...



I think you are right re the positive negative bit. however brushing the blue wire on the sprung metal centre it doesnt flash 

Channa


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## Boxerman (Jan 23, 2010)

channa said:


> I think you are right re the positive negative bit. however brushing the blue wire on the sprung metal centre it doesnt flash
> 
> Channa



If it's an indicator then "brushing" won't work, you'll need to hold it on for several seconds, the current is switching on and off (60 flashes per minute) so you have to keep it there to maintain the circuit in order for the flasher relay to work. 
It's the imbalance due to lack of resistance which is causing your front one to flash rapidly.

Frank


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## barnybg (Jan 23, 2010)

*Flasher*

Looking at the pic,I too think the BLACK is EARTH so your BLUE that has come away is  a POSITIVE,try cutting/cleaning BLUE end of wire and just hold it to the end where it should go,put new bulb in the right way to elimenate bulb theory and dont forget ignition and flasher on (know it sounds stupid but have forgotten simple things while working out problems?!)
Also check out all other bulbs /fitments on other flasher light clusters BEFORE this...


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## bigboack (Jan 23, 2010)

A simple test with a meter should sort this out in seconds. if you have not got one, get an elctricians screwdriver from b and q. the one with a test lead on the top. they are only a couple of quid.


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## runnach (Jan 23, 2010)

bigboack said:


> A simple test with a meter should sort this out in seconds. if you have not got one, get an elctricians screwdriver from b and q. the one with a test lead on the top. they are only a couple of quid.



I dont have a meter, what do I do with the screwdriver, I am a complete novice with electrics but keen to learn.

I mentioned earlier I cleaned the live feed. held it to the contact but is there a chance I was earthing it by holding it ??, that said i trapped it between the bottom of the bulb and the holder and still no joy.

Thanks 

Channa


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## The Grand Wanderer (Jan 23, 2010)

*Flashing Channa*

Hi Chana,
First before removing any wires make a written note of the position and colour of all the wires attached to the light cluster.
Then remove them all and clean all contacts, bulbs (both outer and centre parts) and the holders carefully.
The easiest way to repair is as Frank says and solder a short wire to the remaining part of the centre contact of the flasher holder and put a male lug on the other end. Then push the male lug into the existing wire, making sure that it is well insulated against accidental shorting against other parts of the cluster.
Put a small smear of vasaline on all contacts and reassemble.
The black wire attached to the long silver metal part that holds all the bulbs in place is the earth.
The blue wire is the feed for the flasher bulb. As has been said the flasher turns on and off so just brushing it against the bulb will not be the best way of testing, bare a small part of the wire and hold it against the centre of the bulb for a while making sure that the indicater is on.
Bob will hopefully be your uncle and Fanny your aunt.
Regards,
Wanderer


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## maingate (Jan 23, 2010)

This is a waste of time! 

I`ll have the wheels, who wants the batteries?


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## runnach (Jan 23, 2010)

maingate said:


> This is a waste of time!
> 
> I`ll have the wheels, who wants the batteries?




With my lack of mechanical/electrical prowess certainly a challenge !!

I have noted your comments, and earmarked the rear O/S wheel for you.

Still has an ongoing slow puncture, Time to raid the piggy bank and buy some 215 70 15 tyres....to get the ol gal ship shape,

I constantly try to remind myself a cheaper option than bricks and mortar, But we both know Yorkies are allergic to spending money when not required.

Daft thing is I will need to go to a site to get electricity for the soldering iron !!!...

All part and parcel of the fun 

Channa


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## derekfaeberwick (Jan 23, 2010)

Question- is it working?

  Answer- No-Yes-NO-Yes-No-Yes----- job's a good un!    .


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## Boxerman (Jan 23, 2010)

channa said:


> Daft thing is I will need to go to a site to get electricity for the soldering iron !!!...
> 
> Channa



You can get gas powered ones that run off lighter fuel 

Frank


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## runnach (Jan 23, 2010)

derekfaeberwick said:


> Question- is it working?
> 
> Answer- No-Yes-NO-Yes-No-Yes----- job's a good un!    .



I am trying to be morose in my motorhoming woes and then you make me smile !!!!


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## runnach (Jan 23, 2010)

Boxerman said:


> You can get gas powered ones that run off lighter fuel
> 
> Frank



Well I will attempt to give it a go tomorrow, I am holed up I dont particularly want to draw the attention of the boys in blue...or confuse other motorists for that matter deliberately driving what i know at present is a defective vehicle.

Thank you to everyone for your input..

rgards 

Channa


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## runnach (Jan 24, 2010)

*Bloody hell it works !!!!!*

Thanks everyone for your help rear indicator flashing 

I was in Maplins at 11 am bought a butane soldering iron for £20 reduced from £32 and a mutimeter for £7.

I couldnt /cant get the meter to measure owt, and more than likely operator error on my part all this volts amps and resistance business.

Anyway soldered a pieced of wire to the live lug and used a couple of bullet connectors to the original live lead..

At first it didnt work and I think it was a poor joint.on the solder ( at least 35 years since i soldered and was'nt that good at it even then)

Anyway indicator started to flash ....ask no questions put it back together quickly and all is well.

I could have bought a bulb holder from a reckers for £15 plus vat, So it cost me a bit more, however I have another little job to do with the iron ...A horn problem at the steering boss end.

And probably a useful tool to have in the van.

Thank you all again for your input 

Channa


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## Boxerman (Jan 24, 2010)

Glad you got it fixed 

Frank


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## runnach (Jan 24, 2010)

Boxerman said:


> Glad you got it fixed
> 
> Frank



Thanks , Has anyone got the numpties guide to using a multimeter though? 

I am sure it isnt broken !!!.. more the idiot trying to operate it !!!

I thought it would be a good idea for battery checks and other electrical bits and bats that the Goodship camper throws at me now and again.


I was touching everything I could with the probes and all it said was 0,00.

I really dont want to visit a young lady friend ( well perhaps) and stick my probes in her sockets.....one can get an unwelcome reputation that way 

Channa


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## biggirafe (Jan 24, 2010)

This is pretty good
using a multimeter

and this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzjMIcER4EU


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## rickboy (Jan 24, 2010)

channa said:


> Thanks , Has anyone got the numpties guide to using a multimeter though?
> 
> I am sure it isnt broken !!!.. more the idiot trying to operate it !!!
> 
> ...






They need a battery inside!!! 

Rick


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## bigboack (Jan 24, 2010)

Well done, see perseverance always wins, Now about that Multimeter, If it was new it would have come with a little piece of paper, these are called instructions, I would read them if I was You.


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## runnach (Jan 24, 2010)

bigboack said:


> Well done, see perseverance always wins, Now about that Multimeter, If it was new it would have come with a little piece of paper, these are called instructions, I would read them if I was You.:




:I have done, unusual fir a bloke I know, watched the links provided earlier by Big G and to be honest totally confused

It mentions it can measure voltage ac/ dc , resistance and all that, but not sure in the first place what I should be measuring :confusedIt seems you need to make it part of the circuit to work out whats happening ? ( challenge one understanding circuits !!)

I made a post earlier implying that a testing screwdriver with croc clips was a dangerous weapon in my hands and asked what I attached the clips too....sadly that was a serious question 

Still I have a new toy to play with and perhaps learn summat, first negative (pun intended ) is removing the one in my head.

Channa


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## maingate (Jan 24, 2010)

This symbol is DC volts (what you have in the van.

__________
------------

Set it to the correct range - 20

Ohms (resistance) is the Greek letter symbol

Set it to 20K. When you touch the red and black probes together, the reading goes from 1 down to 0.0. When you test a circuit and it stays at 1 then there is a break in it.

The other range is Alternating current ( AC volts) suitable for your mains circuits. Set it to a figure above 250 volts.


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## runnach (Jan 24, 2010)

maingate said:


> This symbol is DC volts (what you have in the van.
> 
> __________
> ------------
> ...



Funny feeling maingate after introducing my hound and tickling the whippets I will be asking for a crash lesson should we encouter on a wildy somewhere !!

Channa


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## maingate (Jan 24, 2010)

My rates are quite reasonable.


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## runnach (Jan 25, 2010)

channa said:


> Thanks , Has anyone got the numpties guide to using a multimeter though?
> 
> I am sure it isnt broken !!!.. more the idiot trying to operate it !!!
> 
> ...



A little update, and opportunity for you to take the Mickey.

I took the multimeter back to maplins today, politely explained I couldnt get a reading. no matter what I did it sticked at 0.00.

I even touched the positive side of the battery and earthed the black lead to the engine block and still nothing

Anyway the fella said to me no problem I will test it for you. At which point he pulled the caps of the probes. to expose the metal..

Ermmm Stop I said, I think I know the problem....( I hadn't removed the caps )

And btw no where in the destructions does it mention pulling off the protective caps!!



Channa


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## bigboack (Jan 25, 2010)

You go to the top of the class for numpties, Still laughing at it now.


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## biggirafe (Jan 25, 2010)

LOL    
fkin brilliant    I'm crying


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## maingate (Jan 25, 2010)

You can blame me Channa as I did not specifically tell you to do that. 

I did`nt think he was as gormless as that


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## runnach (Jan 25, 2010)

maingate said:


> You can blame me Channa as I did not specifically tell you to do that.
> 
> I did`nt think he was as gormless as that



I would love to tell you I was pulling your legs , but sadly its true 

It seems this understanding electrics mallarkey may take some time !

Channa


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