# Rust problems on 04 Boxer



## spigot (Oct 15, 2017)

Noticed rust stains on the sills of my 04 Peugeot Boxer van conversion.

Had a gander underneath, found quite a bit of rust. Too far gone to use underseal, so thought I'd use a rust inhibitor like Waxoyl.

I'm planning to remove the black plastic trim side panels & spray the stuff through the clip holes into the side box sections, it's the only way I can see of reaching these parts.

Anyone out there had experience of this? be glad of any advice.


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## Fletch6 (Oct 15, 2017)

.


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## Deleted member 5816 (Oct 15, 2017)

I have read several threads where this has been done at a later date than purchase one about a firm specializing in this sort of thing. I will try to find one.

Alf




spigot said:


> Noticed rust stains on the sills of my 04 Peugeot Boxer van conversion.
> 
> Had a gander underneath, found quite a bit of rust. Too far gone to use underseal, so thought I'd use a rust inhibitor like Waxoyl.
> 
> ...


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## Deleted member 5816 (Oct 15, 2017)

Going back many many years my father used to use a old engine oil and paraffin mix applied with a white wash brush.

Alf



Fletch6 said:


> Waxoyl will just peel off in 2 years with more rust underneath. Use white grease in aerosol form. Available on ebay in 6 can packs.
> I speak from experience, having used it on my old land rover defender.


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## harrow (Oct 15, 2017)

spigot said:


> Noticed rust stains on the sills of my 04 Peugeot Boxer van conversion.
> 
> Had a gander underneath, found quite a bit of rust. Too far gone to use underseal, so thought I'd use a rust inhibitor like Waxoyl.
> 
> ...


I have a tin of Waxoyl in the garage, it is red rusty.

I did try years ago on a brand new car, Waxoyl from new, Waxoyl retreated every 6 months to a year.

Had a rust hole through the floor in 6 years of private ownership, car kept in a garage every night.

You might just as well use engine oil in a sprayer or paint it on with a brush.

Water seems to get under Waxoyl and the Waxoyl seems to stop it drying off.

An additional thing is Waxoyl seems to soften factory underseal and that also falls off.


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## spigot (Oct 15, 2017)

I tend to agree with the comments on Waxoyl.

Years ago, working on classic cars, we used Dunlop Panelguard, which was a thick black goo that stuck like "$h1t to a blanket". It was available from Brown Bros, the motor factors. If you got Waxoyl on your hands, you simply washed them. If you got Panelguard on your skin, you'd have to wait for it to wear off or use a painful solvent.

Dunlop Panelguard is no longer available & as the rust is too far gone to cut back to the bare metal, I shall have to soak the affected parts with grease, wax, or whatever to try to hold back the galloping rust.


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## runnach (Oct 15, 2017)

Spigot makes an extremely good point you need to remove rust and back to bare metal...

I agree with Alfs observation, as a young lad in the motor trade working with some of the older fellas, They swore by engine oil mixed as described to a man, It also made fasteners easier to get off should the need arise.

Are modern products any better ? I have no idea other than the  old lads found summat that worked...no point in re inventing the wheel 

Channa


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## Tbear (Oct 15, 2017)

spigot said:


> I tend to agree with the comments on Waxoyl.
> 
> Years ago, working on classic cars, we used Dunlop Panelguard, which was a thick black goo that stuck like "$h1t to a blanket". It was available from Brown Bros, the motor factors. If you got Waxoyl on your hands, you simply washed them. If you got Panelguard on your skin, you'd have to wait for it to wear off or use a painful solvent.
> 
> Dunlop Panelguard is no longer available & as the rust is too far gone to cut back to the bare metal, I shall have to soak the affected parts with grease, wax, or whatever to try to hold back the galloping rust.



Get someone who knows what they are doing to have a good look underneath. I thought my Boxer from a similar age was ok. Just a bit in the wheel arch needing a small plate welding in until they went looking for good metal to weld to. I sold it for parts being very pleased I had not had a bump in it. I do hope yours is much better than mine but for piece of mind please get it checked.

Richard


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## Canalsman (Oct 15, 2017)

harrow said:


> Had a rust hole through the floor in 6 years of private ownership, car kept in a garage every night.



A garage is one of the worst places to park a car. 

If the car goes in wet it stays wet. Garages are unheated, cold and damp in Winter. Often poorly insulated in Summer the lack of ventilation builds up a wonderfully humid atmosphere to help your car rot!

Far better to park under a car port or on the street ...


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## molly 2 (Oct 15, 2017)

Problem is lts like us getting old ,only cure for rust is a new van ,go on she  deserves  it.  ,:beer:


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## Deleted member 52918 (Oct 15, 2017)

I've just sprayed the whole rear underside of my car with synthetic engine oil, there was to much surface rust to remove so I thought why not.
I tried to avoid the rubbery bits to lessen the chance of perishing them.

Phill


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## sparrks (Oct 15, 2017)

I always use a Cold Galvanising fluid - bit like paint, but works very well


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## jaycey001 (Oct 15, 2017)

I would agree and get the van checked before spending money on rust proofing - but if you are going to go ahead with the rust proofing then have a look on practically classics forum. Being a classic car forum they really know there stuff, in the last practical classics test they really rated Award-Winning Car Detailing, Finishing and Surface Care Products | Rust Prevention and Rust Removal Products | Bilt Hamber Laboratories  - Bilt Hamber products. 

An alternative that my Mx5 specialist uses is  Rust Treatment | Corrosion Protection | Windscreen Repair | DINITROL UK 

Be prepared to pay a fair amount though, for my little mk1 mx5 its about 500 to have the cavities filled and a full coating underneath. 

Good luck!


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## eddyt (Oct 15, 2017)

hi
  you need to get rid of the rust on the suface first. if its on the outer
  sill you can heat it up with a blowlamp and wire brush it off when hot.
  then treat with acid type rust killer then etch primer then paint.
  to treat inside the box section all you can do is spray something in
  like waxoil or oil. if its undrneath you can spray it with stonechip after treatment.
  its probably the equivalent of the dunlop stuff you mentioned.


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## oldish hippy (Oct 16, 2017)

alittle showing on bottom of sillby passenger door on boxer o3 plate


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## trevskoda (Oct 16, 2017)

What ever you do DONT use old engine oil as it full of acids,use dinitrol or as i do waxol mixed with a rust preventor adding some white spirit to thin,drill holes if no access and use a parafin long nose spray gun to shoot the stuff inside sills and box sections,you will require a air compressor to do this.
I have just scraped/hidden down garden my 22 year old soda which lasted using this /gods rest her sole.


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## harrow (Oct 16, 2017)

trevskoda said:


> What ever you do DONT use old engine oil as it full of acids,use dinitrol or as i do waxol mixed with a rust preventor adding some white spirit to thin,drill holes if no access and use a parafin long nose spray gun to shoot the stuff inside sills and box sections,you will require a air compressor to do this.
> I have just scraped/hidden down garden my 22 year old soda which lasted using this /gods rest her sole.



When your back is better you will be able to drag it back out.

My backs playing up at the moment, spasm of pain like I have been kicked in the back, but it will pass.

:wave:


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## Deleted member 11999 (Oct 16, 2017)

I had to have sections cut out and new plates welded in on both front wheel arches/subframe of my 04 Boxer to pass this years mot. There are also advisories of further less serious corrosion in the area which I am just about to get sorted.


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## runnach (Oct 16, 2017)

trevskoda said:


> What ever you do DONT use old engine oil as it full of acids,use dinitrol or as i do waxol mixed with a rust preventor adding some white spirit to thin,drill holes if no access and use a parafin long nose spray gun to shoot the stuff inside sills and box sections,you will require a air compressor to do this.
> I have just scraped/hidden down garden my 22 year old soda which lasted using this /gods rest her sole.


 you are right Trev, I personally agreed my  recollections from the early days with Alf and it did work, I believe in our case it was stopped for environmental reasons, but more important I was once told engine oils can be carcinogenic, ( still worked though )

Channa


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## spigot (Oct 16, 2017)

molly 2 said:


> Problem is lts like us getting old ,only cure for rust is a new van ,go on she  deserves  it.  ,:beer:



I would go for new, Baz, The base vehicles are good. It's the conversions that are crap.

If it comes to it, I'll do a self-build.


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## spigot (Oct 16, 2017)

oldish hippy said:


> alittle showing on bottom of sillby passenger door on boxer o3 plate



Sort it now, Barry, before it's too late.


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## oldish hippy (Oct 16, 2017)

It willbe done when it goes for mot in about couple of months mind you do have it worse than most here with a salty atmosphere  and sea spray blasting it and it is sandblasted whenever wind is wron direction


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## spigot (Oct 16, 2017)

chas17 said:


> I had to have sections cut out and new plates welded in on both front wheel arches/subframe of my 04 Boxer to pass this years mot. There are also advisories of further less serious corrosion in the area which I am just about to get sorted.



The van passed the MOT last week with no advisories, there is no serious rust within 12in of any load bearing structures.

I want to stop that happening, that's why I intend to splosh wax, grease, oil or whatever on all surfaces.


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## trevskoda (Oct 16, 2017)

harrow said:


> When your back is better you will be able to drag it back out.
> 
> My backs playing up at the moment, spasm of pain like I have been kicked in the back, but it will pass.
> 
> :wave:



I may have to go to one of em girls that gives you a rub down,for back pain of course.:lol-053:


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## trevskoda (Oct 16, 2017)

spigot said:


> The van passed the MOT last week with no advisories, there is no serious rust within 12in of any load bearing structures.
> 
> I want to stop that happening, that's why I intend to splosh wax, grease, oil or whatever on all surfaces.



Dont mater here,if there is a hole or weakness anywhere its a mot failure,very tight in n/ireland,im lucky i got so long with my old dodgem.


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## trevskoda (Oct 16, 2017)

spigot said:


> The van passed the MOT last week with no advisories, there is no serious rust within 12in of any load bearing structures.
> 
> I want to stop that happening, that's why I intend to splosh wax, grease, oil or whatever on all surfaces.



The corrode from inside to outside,its the internal panels /sills require spraying.


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## molly 2 (Oct 16, 2017)

spigot said:


> I tend to agree with the comments on Waxoyl.
> 
> Years ago, working on classic cars, we used Dunlop Panelguard, which was a thick black goo that stuck like "$h1t to a blanket". It was available from Brown Bros, the motor factors. If you got Waxoyl on your hands, you simply washed them. If you got Panelguard on your skin, you'd have to wait for it to wear off or use a painful solvent.
> 
> Dunlop Panelguard is no longer available & as the rust is too far gone to cut back to the bare metal, I shall have to soak the affected parts with grease, wax, or whatever to try to hold back the galloping rust.


if you take you sill  back to bare shiny metal you must paint it with rust kill first this turns the metal black and slows  down the corrosion.then paint . problem is sills rust from the inside so are usually worse  than they look, and repairs tend to be a shot term fix .best thing for you to do is sell it and buy my van  ::goodluck:


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## molly 2 (Oct 16, 2017)

spigot said:


> I would go for new, Baz, The base vehicles are good. It's the conversions that are crap.
> 
> If it comes to it, I'll do a self-build.


. I could not agree more :cool1::cool1::cool1:


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## Deleted member 64209 (Oct 18, 2017)

*Unusual rust treatment...*

I've used all sorts to protect motors various over the years. As I've run on used vegoil for eons I've always got some to hand and noticed that it's a great sealer of metal. I say 'sealer' as of course all we need to do is to seal the metal against contact with water and air. A mix of used veggie
 and engine oil works or even a few coats of vegoil on it's own. It forms a guey skin. Only one minor snag... vermin quite like the taste of pure vegoil hence mixing it with not so tasty used engine oil... That brew works well sealing timber too. Chips anyone?


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