# Electrolux fridge problem



## NeilyG (Jul 8, 2020)

On the Autosleeper van we used for the very first time last weekend we realised the ignition button for our Electrolux 4233 S (left in pic) was jammed down in the ignition position & wouldn’t pull out or even turn.
I managed to prise the knob itself away &, with a little help from wd40 & a tap with a hammer, got the spindle to pop back out & rotate. 
With the knob back on it now turns & pushes in fine, but when I switch the spark switch on & press the knob I can hear one whoof of the gas trying to catch but it doesn‘t quite make it & the sparking just continues without a flame - so can’t get the fridge to start. 

I’m reckoning that being jammed in the pushed down ignition position for so long has maybe caused some part to no longer behave itself properly? Any advice would be much appreciated (can access the back of the fridge from outside by removing the vent panels).


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## mfw (Jul 8, 2020)

Probably better getting serviced save problems later or just replace dependant on price ( labour can be expensive ) and you want a reliable appliance


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## izwozral (Jul 8, 2020)

Probable causes: 

There are a few reasons behind this. First, it could be down to the thermocouple, which regulates how much gas is in the fridge’s burner at any time. If this component fails, it’s time to replace it.

If replacing the thermocouple doesn’t fix the issue, perhaps your pilot light’s gas line has too much air in it. This will prevent the pilot light from turning on and staying on. Fixing this means getting into the fridge’s gas valves and resetting them.


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## yorkslass (Jul 8, 2020)

As a temporary measure Neil, you can remove the outside vent and light with a stove lighter.....two person job though.


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## spigot (Jul 8, 2020)

Have you tried holding that knob in for a few seconds until the gas is well under way?


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## NeilyG (Jul 8, 2020)

Thanks for your input.
One thing I've realised while looking at it again is that when I was first trying it on the road the sparker was producing a yellow flickering but now there is nothing to see - so, maybe I was overdoing it & the spark has now lost its 'spark'?


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## NeilyG (Jul 8, 2020)

spigot said:


> Have you tried holding that knob in for a few seconds until the gas is well under way?


Yes, maybe overdoing it to cause the sparker to no longer work as it should?


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## in h (Jul 8, 2020)

The ignition on these uses a very high voltage down the wire to the igniter. When there is no flame, it builds up to a high enough voltage to make a spark, which repeats until the flame catches. It detects that the flame has lit by detecting the current generated by the ion flow in the flame. Then it just holds enough voltage to detect if the flame goes out.

[later] Just realised that yours is a manual one, not automatic. They don't detect the flame and reignite. They just use piezo crystal to generate a spark when you press a button.[/later]

The wire needs to be very well insulated to work, and attached in the right place near the burner.

The flame failure device that uses the thermocouple is an entirely separate arrangement. It simply detects when the thermocouple tip cools down and stops generating a voltage, and it releases the solenoid that hold the gas supply on.

From your description, it sounds like the thermocouple maybe isn't heating up properly, or is corroded and not working properly, or you're just not holding the knob in for long enough.

Check that the tip is well into the flame and getting heated. If it isn't, re-align it (or clean the fridge burner).

If it is, replace it. You can buy a generic one from Screwfix or Toolstation vastly cheaper than the original make, and just as good


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## NeilyG (Jul 8, 2020)

Whoops!


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## n brown (Jul 8, 2020)

oh dear, may not be as bad as it looks, might just be burnt crud on the burner ,a good clean might sort it


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## runnach (Jul 8, 2020)

.


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## colinm (Jul 8, 2020)

in h said:


> The ignition on these uses a very high voltage down the wire to the igniter. When there is no flame, it builds up to a high enough voltage to make a spark, which repeats until the flame catches. It detects that the flame has lit by detecting the current generated by the ion flow in the flame. Then it just holds enough voltage to detect if the flame goes out.
> 
> [later] Just realised that yours is a manual one, not automatic. They don't detect the flame and reignite. They just use piezo crystal to generate a spark when you press a button.[/later]
> 
> ...


AFAIK all the ones with rocker switch, as per photo, will spark continually until the flame ignites, if the flame goes out then the ignitor will once again start to spark.


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## in h (Jul 8, 2020)

colinmd said:


> AFAIK all the ones with rocker switch, as per photo, will spark continually until the flame ignites, if the flame goes out then the ignitor will once again start to spark.


That was my initial thought, but i suspect that switch is for the 12v or mains.


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## colinm (Jul 8, 2020)

in h said:


> That was my initial thought, but i suspect that switch is for the 12v or mains.


On ours the 12v and Mains are at other end of fridge and are red and green (IIRC), but the ignitor switch is next to gas controls and is orange


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## NeilyG (Jul 8, 2020)

in h said:


> That was my initial thought, but i suspect that switch is for the 12v or mains.


Electrical switches are on the other side of the fridge. The 3 controls in the pic are all for the gas & the right hand switch behaves as said by colinmd.
Will take it out & clean up tomorrow - will also check the jet isn't blocked up.
Useful video on youtube.


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## in h (Jul 8, 2020)

NeilyG said:


> Electrical switches are on the other side of the fridge. The 3 controls in the pic are all for the gas & the right hand switch behaves as said by colinmd.
> Will take it out & clean up tomorrow - will also check the jet isn't blocked up.
> Useful video on youtube.


In that case, my first paragraph does apply.


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## harrow (Jul 8, 2020)

NeilyG said:


> Electrical switches are on the other side of the fridge. The 3 controls in the pic are all for the gas & the right hand switch behaves as said by colinmd.
> Will take it out & clean up tomorrow - will also check the jet isn't blocked up.
> Useful video on youtube.



Good video, I am sure Marie will supervise, if you need a hand


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## in h (Jul 8, 2020)

You don't need to take the fridge out to fix it, as long as it has vents top and bottom.


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## n brown (Jul 8, 2020)

of course you'll have to turn the whole van upside down


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## runnach (Jul 8, 2020)

Basics first , before messing with thermocouples etc and igniters is gas getting to the burner ? And using Sues idea of manual ignition is it lighting and staying lit. If there is no gas back to the original problem knob is it allowing the gas control valve to open correctly when it is depresssed this is the very first thing to check at this stage thermocouples are of no relevance even more so if when the knob is released the flame remains lit ( no problem with a thermocouple)

There is every chance the vehicle stood for a while then driven has disturbed detritus and crap on an within the burner so that is worth a routine clean too, and by doing so may solve your problem


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## Fazerloz (Jul 8, 2020)

Where's Wintoian when you want him. He used to take his fridge in bits every 3 mnths.


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## runnach (Jul 8, 2020)

Fazerloz said:


> Where's Wintoian when you want him. He used to take his fridge in bits every 3 mnths.


A lot of the time crud from the flue causing his woes, which gets me to thinking after most of our vehicles being stood ...worth making a mental note as we start vanning again and fridges start playing up ?


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## mariesnowgoose (Jul 8, 2020)

colinmd said:


> On ours the 12v and Mains are at other end of fridge and are red and green (IIRC), but the ignitor switch is next to gas controls and is orange



Here's the pics I took last night. Been out all day, first chance I've had to post up.

Sounds like our fridge is similar or same as yours, Colin?

Fridge LHS:-







Fridge RHS:-


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## colinm (Jul 8, 2020)

mariesnowgoose said:


> Here's the pics I took last night. Been out all day, first chance I've had to post up.
> 
> Sounds like our fridge is similar or same as yours, Colin?



Ours is the same or similar model, although I had thought the control panel was flat, but might be wrong.


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## n brown (Jul 8, 2020)

me and Channa singing in tune as usual !


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## Canalsman (Jul 8, 2020)

The burner assembly clearly needs a thorough clean.

What nobody has mentioned yet is the well known problem with these fridges. The push in thermocouple knob sometimes does not go in far enough.

Remove the knob, turn and depress the spindle and see if that works.

If so pack the knob recess to increase clearance.


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## NeilyG (Jul 9, 2020)

Taken apart - cabling insulation for spark plug corroded.


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## n brown (Jul 9, 2020)

when these things leak ,there's sparks coming out of every crack . the electrode looks like it'll clean up ok , just needs the lead sorting out . test it at night to show up any leakage


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## Nabsim (Jul 9, 2020)

n brown said:


> when these things leak ,there's sparks coming out of every crack . the electrode looks like it'll clean up ok , just needs the lead sorting out . test it at night to show up any leakage


Why does that remind me of riding old bikes in the rain and plugs sparking across to your knees lol


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## NeilyG (Jul 9, 2020)

Behold the crap in the gas jet part:





 (jet blockage is apparently the main cause of fridges not starting up)


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## NeilyG (Jul 9, 2020)

Jet piece removed:


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## NeilyG (Jul 9, 2020)

n brown said:


> when these things leak ,there's sparks coming out of every crack . the electrode looks like it'll clean up ok , just needs the lead sorting out . test it at night to show up any leakage


Do you think I will need to take the fridge out & replace the whole lead - or can I patch up the insulation in some way? 
(Used heat shrink once but don’t have any)


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## n brown (Jul 9, 2020)

Nabsim said:


> Why does that remind me of riding old bikes in the rain and plugs sparking across to your knees lol


i had an AJS500 twin when i was  14 ,and decided an inline switch off a table lamp,wired into the HT lead, would be a good anti theft device .  about to set off one day ,i put the bike in 1st ,and then remembered the switch , which i hadn't tried yet . another painful lesson learnt


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## n brown (Jul 9, 2020)

NeilyG said:


> Do you think I will need to take the fridge out & replace the whole lead - or can I patch up the insulation in some way?
> (Used heat shrink once but don’t have any)


as long as you have enough slack ,you should be able to cut away the bad insulation and reconnect . not sure how hot that might get though ,but it must be fixable


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## NeilyG (Jul 9, 2020)

K





n brown said:


> as long as you have enough slack ,you should be able to cut away the bad insulation and reconnect . not sure how hot that might get though ,but it must be fixable


I‘ve refitted the igniter, as shown below, then tried the switch which flashes away, but no sparks be seen. 
Does it need to be totally insulated first? 





Think I need a new lead & / or igniter?


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## n brown (Jul 9, 2020)

you did hold it near an earth didn't you ? anywhere metal on the fridge will do


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## colinm (Jul 9, 2020)

It needs a earth close to it.


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## harrow (Jul 9, 2020)

NeilyG said:


> K
> I‘ve refitted the igniter, as shown below, then tried the switch which flashes away, but no sparks be seen.
> Does it need to be totally insulated first?
> 
> ...



The sparks jump to ground they won't jump in mid air, and it very honorable to reuse the original bits but to be honest I would buy new replacements


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## NeilyG (Jul 9, 2020)

Put everything back together, put gas on & tried again - er...


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## in h (Jul 9, 2020)

mariesnowgoose said:


> Here's the pics I took last night. Been out all day, first chance I've had to post up.
> 
> Sounds like our fridge is similar or same as yours, Colin?
> 
> ...


The written-in question: yes, the mains and 12v switches should both be off.

The user guide for my fridge (different model) also has a completely wrong "helpful" comment written in by a previous owner.


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## spigot (Jul 9, 2020)

It looks as though you've put it back together & left the tiny jet out.
I did this many years ago when I first took the fridge out, I noticed this little shiny thing on the ground in France.
Since then the fridge has been in & out like a bloody Yo-Yo!


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## n brown (Jul 9, 2020)

i did that with a clutch . lowered the car ,then noticed the thrust bearing lying there . easy done


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## NeilyG (Jul 9, 2020)

spigot said:


> It looks as though you've put it back together & left the tiny jet out.
> I did this many years ago when I first took the fridge out, I noticed this little shiny thing on the ground in France.
> Since then the fridge has been in & out like a bloody Yo-Yo!


The flame is in the holes AFTER the jet bit. Taken the main pipe bit part out & am cleaning it inside - thought I had before, but it must have been blocked?


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## mariesnowgoose (Jul 9, 2020)

harrow said:


> The sparks jump to ground they won't jump in mid air, and it *very honorable to reuse the original bits but to be honest I would buy new replacements*



Could you shout that a bit louder, Ian?  

Neil is deaf, and even when he hears you (and I don't just mean me!) he rarely 'listens' ...  

{sigh}


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## mariesnowgoose (Jul 9, 2020)

I have got nightmare visions of our van going up in flames 

Is stubbornness a common male trait, or is it just certain men?


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## colinm (Jul 9, 2020)

in h said:


> The written-in question: yes, the mains and 12v switches should both be off.
> 
> The user guide for my fridge (different model) also has a completely wrong "helpful" comment written in by a previous owner.


Whilst the 'correct' procedure is to turn off 12v and mains switches, in practice it makes no differance, or at least I should say, in the 9 years we have owned our present van the 12v is rarely switched off, sometimes if I remember will switch it off when driving to MOT, not 'good practice' but there we go. We rarely use EHU when camping, but often we plug in at home overnight before going away and loading fridge, have often left this on to no ill effect.


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## in h (Jul 9, 2020)

colinmd said:


> Whilst the 'correct' procedure is to turn off 12v and mains switches, in practice it makes no differance, or at least I should say, in the 9 years we have owned our present van the 12v is rarely switched off, sometimes if I remember will switch it off when driving to MOT, not 'good practice' but there we go. We rarely use EHU when camping, but often we plug in at home overnight before going away and loading fridge, have often left this on to no ill effect.


If you have the gas running and the 12v on when the engine is running, or the mains on when hookup is connected, you are putting in more heat than the fridge is designed to manage. 

Of course if the engine isn't running and there is no hookup, it makes no difference, but it's just a safety precaution, just like always switching your multimeter back to volts before putting it away, in case you accidentally test a voltage with it set to current.


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## in h (Jul 9, 2020)

NeilyG said:


> The flame is in the holes AFTER the jet bit.


If you leave the jet out, that's what you expect to see.


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## spigot (Jul 9, 2020)

in h said:


> If you have the gas running and the 12v on when the engine is running, or the mains on when hookup is connected, you are putting in more heat than the fridge is designed to manage.
> 
> Of course if the engine isn't running and there is no hookup, it makes no difference, but it's just a safety precaution, just like always switching your multimeter back to volts before putting it away, in case you accidentally test a voltage with it set to current.



DON'T drive with the gas on, I've done this in the past & that's when when my fridge has given trouble.
I reckon that driving on our potholed roads the gas pressure pushes any shite in the pipe up to the jet & blocks it.


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## in h (Jul 9, 2020)

spigot said:


> DON'T drive with the gas on, I've done this in the past & that's when when my fridge has given trouble.
> I reckon that driving on our potholed roads the gas pressure pushes any shite in the pipe up to the jet & blocks it.


I think that what blocks jets is the black goo that condenses out of the chemical that's added to make gas smell.
Less than half a psi pressure isn't really powerful enough to blow muck down the pipes.


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## NeilyG (Jul 9, 2020)

in h said:


> If you leave the jet out, that's what you expect to see.


The jet was in place. Cleaned the main part out again & put everything back together but now not getting a dickiebird. 
Will have another look maniana.


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## colinm (Jul 9, 2020)

NeilyG said:


> Put everything back together, put gas on & tried again - er...
> 
> View attachment 84182


From the earlier photo's this is obviously how it was running before, I'm no gas engineer so have little to guide you apart from saying that AFAIK air should be being drawn into that hole, assuming you have cleaned everything out quite why the gas is burning from it I don't know, others with more experience will have to guide you.


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## maingate (Jul 9, 2020)

With that much soot about, your flue will need a good clean out.


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## in h (Jul 9, 2020)

NeilyG said:


> The jet was in place. Cleaned the main part out again & put everything back together but now not getting a dickiebird.
> Will have another look maniana.


The jet was present, but it looks as if it wasn't "in place". The jet is just a precision hole that limits the flow of gas. Then it should point at the inside of the burner, mixing in air as it goes. If it was not properly seated, perhaps gas was getting past it.
If not enough air was mixing in, you get a yellow flame which soots up the heat exchanger/flue, so you ought to clean that out. 
I use a small bottle brush on a long string that I pull up and down through the vertical pipe.


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## martinmartin (Jul 9, 2020)

NeilyG said:


> Put everything back together, put gas on & tried again - er...
> 
> View attachment 84182


If the insulation doesnt go all the way to the ceramic part then ignition will take place were it is in the picture just like you have.


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## harrow (Jul 9, 2020)

mariesnowgoose said:


> Could you shout that a bit louder, Ian?
> 
> Neil is deaf, and even when he hears you (and I don't just mean me!) he rarely 'listens' ...
> 
> {sigh}



*I think Neil should buy you a nice new fridge*


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## trevskoda (Jul 9, 2020)

A 12v compressor fridge is the way to go.


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## in h (Jul 9, 2020)

Nah: too many power issues. Just learn how to fettle the fridge every couple of years


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## martinmartin (Jul 9, 2020)

trevskoda said:


> A 12v compressor fridge is the way to go.


These old rm4 fridges work very well and are fixable, nielys fridge will be up and running shortly, my rm4 series is 27 years old and still works strong.


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## mariesnowgoose (Jul 10, 2020)

martinmartin said:


> These old rm4 fridges work very well and are fixable, nielys fridge will be up and running shortly, my rm4 series is 27 years old and still works strong.



Agreed 

The Electrolux fridge in our previous even older (by 10 years) Autosleeper worked well on gas, even when parked on a bit of a slope.
Which made me unconvinced about the 'got to get it dead level before it works' argument that crops up every now and again.

It's just the mucking about with gas that worries me. But Neil is an expert in everything. Apparently.
He's even more expert than the experts. No matter the subject either. Quite amazing, all this untapped genius   

I see the distinct possibility of at least one pair of singed eyebrows in the offing...


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## mariesnowgoose (Jul 10, 2020)

in h said:


> The written-in question: yes, the mains and 12v switches should both be off.
> 
> *The user guide for my fridge (different model) also has a completely wrong "helpful" comment written in by a previous owner*.



That's Neil's recent writing in our manual, not a previous owner.  
If it all goes badly wrong it'll be me that'll have to source and buy a replacement fridge.
Hence my concern ...


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## runnach (Jul 10, 2020)

Might be more than singed eyebrows if he doesn’t respect it . From the pictures it looks an eon since that fridge has seen tlc so he might as well give it a full fettle, I would be thinking about other appliances too, before winter approaches


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## izwozral (Jul 10, 2020)

mariesnowgoose said:


> Agreed
> 
> The Electrolux fridge in our previous even older (by 10 years) Autosleeper worked well on gas, even when parked on a bit of a slope.
> Which made me unconvinced about the 'got to get it dead level before it works' argument that crops up every now and again.
> ...



I wondered where all the garden expertise came from!


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## NeilyG (Jul 10, 2020)

This morning I wrapped some elec tape around the bare ignition cable joint & it seems to be be working ok - nice blue flame. So, if I wrap more tape around it will that be ok for the foreseeable?
(In anticipation of howls of derision...)


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## colinm (Jul 10, 2020)

mariesnowgoose said:


> The Electrolux fridge in our previous even older (by 10 years) Autosleeper worked well on gas, even when parked on a bit of a slope.
> Which made me unconvinced about the 'got to get it dead level before it works' argument that crops up every now and again.



A few years back Dometic made fridges in two specs, one of which was designed for caravans and had to be level to work, these where a few quid cheaper than 'motorhome' fridges, so many vans would be fitted with them.


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## yorkslass (Jul 10, 2020)

NeilyG said:


> This morning I wrapped some elec tape around the bare ignition cable joint & it seems to be be working ok - nice blue flame. So, if I wrap more tape around it will that be ok for the foreseeable?
> (In anticipation of howls of derision...)


The trouble with doing that Neil is that you will forget all about it......speaking from experience


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## izwozral (Jul 10, 2020)

NeilyG said:


> This morning I wrapped some elec tape around the bare ignition cable joint & it seems to be be working ok - nice blue flame. So, if I wrap more tape around it will that be ok for the foreseeable?
> (In anticipation of howls of derision...)




Didn't want to keep you waiting Neil.


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## n brown (Jul 10, 2020)

something like this  https://www.amazon.co.uk/EFORCAR-Ha...9&sprefix=heat+resistant+tape,aps,164&sr=8-10


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## NeilyG (Jul 11, 2020)

I got some heat resistant tape & used that - all seems to be working well now, thanks all. 

Had trouble seeing the flame from inside the fridge so was pleased to find I could remove the plastic viewer & get most of the gunge off. Looking good.


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## harrow (Jul 11, 2020)

It will keep you warm on a winters evening.
If its the same as the tape I have, I tried some in a flame and it creates clouds of black smoke as it burns


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## mfw (Jul 12, 2020)

NeilyG said:


> I got some heat resistant tape & used that - all seems to be working well now, thanks all.
> 
> Had trouble seeing the flame from inside the fridge so was pleased to find I could remove the plastic viewer & get most of the gunge off. Looking good.


Think those viewers are sealed originally so hope you resealed it when you put it back ( to stop fumes getting back in van i believe ) someone will know for sure anyway


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## NeilyG (Jul 12, 2020)

mfw said:


> Think those viewers are sealed originally so hope you resealed it when you put it back ( to stop fumes getting back in van i believe ) someone will know for sure anyway


Doesn’t seem to have been - no trace of any sealant on it or around the hole. 
Wouldn’t mind getting a replacement one - not sure what wording to search for, tho. (‘Fridge gas flame viewer’?) Probably all pretty standard for most fridges?


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## mfw (Jul 12, 2020)

Sorry i was thinking of something else with a sightglass which enabled flame viewing forget what i said


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## NeilyG (Jul 20, 2020)

Just a quick update to say that, having been out & about over the weekend, the fridge now starts up pretty much immediately. So, if you're having trouble starting up your fridge I can def. recommend a quick clean up of the igniter, tidying up the wire insulation & using heat-resistant electrical tape - voila, problem solved.

Can't say I'm keen on the 3 control setup instead of the one control on our previous van. On one occasion I accidentally knocked the left hand igniter knob out of position & realised the right hand spark switch had started constantly flashing, which would have done the igniter no good if I hadn't noticed & restarted it in good time. So, I guess it's best to remember to knock the switch off after starting, just in case.
Just can't leave things alone, can they!


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## izwozral (Jul 20, 2020)

NeilyG said:


> Just a quick update to say that, having been out & about over the weekend, the fridge now starts up pretty much immediately. So, if you're having trouble starting up your fridge I can def. recommend a quick clean up of the igniter, tidying up the wire insulation & using heat-resistant electrical tape - voila, problem solved.
> 
> Can't say I'm keen on the 3 control setup instead of the one control on our previous van. On one occasion I accidentally knocked the left hand igniter knob out of position & realised the right hand spark switch had started constantly flashing, which would have done the igniter no good if I hadn't noticed & restarted it in good time. So, I guess it's best to remember to knock the switch off after starting, just in case.
> Just can't leave things alone, can they!



I thought you would have known the consequences of fiddling with your knob by now Neil.


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## in h (Jul 20, 2020)

NeilyG said:


> Can't say I'm keen on the 3 control setup instead of the one control on our previous van. On one occasion I accidentally knocked the left hand igniter knob out of position & realised the right hand spark switch had started constantly flashing, which would have done the igniter no good if I hadn't noticed & restarted it in good time. So, I guess it's best to remember to knock the switch off after starting, just in case.


Definitely not! 

It is possible for the flame to blow out in certain weather conditions. Not a problem: it will quickly relight. But not if you switch the switch off. 

It is also the only indicator you have when the gas has run out. The click and flash may well be the alarm that saves a fridge full of food being spoiled.

Always leave it on if the fridge is running on gas.


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## 1 Cup (Jul 20, 2020)

You done a great job and we all want you to be safe, is the flame a orange colour?


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## NeilyG (Jul 20, 2020)

1 Cup said:


> You done a great job and we all want you to be safe, is the flame a orange colour?


No - regulation blue, sir.


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## NeilyG (Jul 20, 2020)

in h said:


> Definitely not!
> 
> It is possible for the flame to blow out in certain weather conditions. Not a problem: it will quickly relight. But not of you switch the switch off.
> 
> ...


Oh, alright then. 
Switch it off, food gets b*ggered - leave it on, igniter the same?


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## NeilyG (Jul 20, 2020)

izwozral said:


> I thought you would have known the consequences of fiddling with your knob by now Neil.


Sorry, couldn’t read that one - eyesight playing up for some reason.
(need bigger writing these days)


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## in h (Jul 20, 2020)

NeilyG said:


> Oh, alright then.
> Switch it off, food gets b*ggered - leave it on, igniter the same?


No, the igniter will be fine clicking and flashing for a week or more.


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