# Propex  HS2000 question



## Grimola (Oct 13, 2016)

Hi all

I haven't posted for a while  but hope someone can advise regarding the use of a newly installed Propex HS20000 heater?

I fired it up for the 1st time a few days ago and it works fine but noticed a very annoying "feature" that is part of the operation design.  When the unit comes up to temperature and switches off or is manually switched off at the thermostat, the fan continues to blow cold air for 3 minutes (to purge the system I have been told).  Trouble is, that this operation blows cold air into the air space  that has just been heated.  I was thinking of putting an on/off with in the power feed to cut all power to the unit so the fan does not come on - does anyone know the implication of doing this?  I spoken to some one  at Propex  who said you shouldn't do this but couldn't give an explanation why -  apart from saying "that's the way it was designed".

This is the 1st time I have encountered a heater that has to be cooled every  time it comes up to temperature and don't like the idea if heating my van having to cool it down for 3 minutes every time the thermostat kicks in.

As I haven't used the heater on a cold winters evening  as yet but can any one who has comment on if they found this a problem?

Thanks in advance


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## ashbyspannerman (Oct 13, 2016)

Eberspachers and Webastos do the same, if you cut the power the heater components will be too hot inside and it will damage the heater,


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## Byronic (Oct 13, 2016)

As above don't  don't do it. After the unit switches off there's a residual latent heat build up which could make the heater parts hotter than when running. A bit like letting an i.c. engine turbo charger cool off after a fast long run.


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## jeffmossy (Oct 13, 2016)

Most warm air outlets have flaps inside that you can close...... Wouldn't this be a easier route?


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## martyncc (Oct 13, 2016)

Are you recirculating your air or taking cold air from outside


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## Byronic (Oct 13, 2016)

Prop ex heaters are room sealed. The heated air that it uses to heat the van is taken from the van interior it just keeps recirculating it. The combustion takes place completely seperate and supply air is taken from and exhausted directly to the exterior. No way should the warm air supply flap to the van interior be blocked off or closed or even partially closed. Nor any of the other inlets/outlets. What the OP says is cold air is just the heated air cooling off and as it cools and because it's fan supplied ie is moving air there's a wind chill effect.


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## hextal (Oct 13, 2016)

Byronic said:


> Prop ex heaters are room sealed. The heated air that it uses to heat the van is taken from the van interior it just keeps recirculating it. The combustion takes place completely seperate and supply air is taken from and exhausted directly to the exterior. No way should the warm air supply flap to the van interior be blocked off or closed or even partially closed. Nor any of the other inlets/outlets. What the OP says is cold air is just the heated air cooling off and as it cools and because it's fan supplied ie is moving air there's a wind chill effect.



Yeah. If it's anything like my propex it'll just feel relatively cold at the outlet just because you suddenly don't feel like your feet are about to melt off.


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## Byronic (Oct 13, 2016)

hextal said:


> Yeah. If it's anything like my propex it'll just feel relatively cold at the outlet just because you suddenly don't feel like your feet are about to melt off.



Could always stick your pinkies over the stove, instant heat and the cure for athletes foot.
Even with electric option a 1kW electric  bar heater always feels warmer close up than a 1kW electric fan heater but in the small confines of a van the fire risk is higher. Also the convected warm air of the fan heater gets all around the van more effectively and quicker than the radiant bar heater. 
I'm spouting a load of hot air now, better stop.


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## hextal (Oct 13, 2016)

Byronic said:


> Could always stick your pinkies over the stove, instant heat and the cure for athletes foot.
> Even with electric option a 1kW electric  bar heater always feels warmer close up than a 1kW electric fan heater but in the small confines of a van the fire risk is higher. Also the convected warm air of the fan heater gets all around the van more effectively and quicker than the radiant bar heater.
> I'm spouting a load of hot air now, better stop.



We've got a mwb van and I built an insulated bulkhead between the cab and habitation area. So basically the heater barely gets into it's stride before we turn if off due to heat stroke. Cracking little thing.


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## Grimola (Oct 14, 2016)

martyncc said:


> Are you recirculating your air or taking cold air from outside



The manual says that it automatically recycles the air from inside the van - the air is not stone cold but defiantly cools the inside of the van


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## Grimola (Oct 14, 2016)

hextal said:


> We've got a mwb van and I built an insulated bulkhead between the cab and habitation area. So basically the heater barely gets into it's stride before we turn if off due to heat stroke. Cracking little thing.



We have the cab open to the rear living space - think I had better invest in some full length curtains!


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## Grimola (Oct 14, 2016)

thanks everyone for your replies - glad i posted.  I did order a 12v switch to cut power but i won't install.  I now understand why the unit needs to cool after operation. I am going to use this weekend and guess it will used a lot of gas (I only have 4.5kg butane bottles. will see how long the gas lasts and may install an 11 kg gasit bottle to keep running cost down.


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## Byronic (Oct 14, 2016)

I'm almost certain the 1600 models use 100 grams of gas per hour. So a 4.5kg cylinder is going to last about 45 hours continuous running, of course this time will be extended by how the thermostat is set.


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## martyncc (Oct 14, 2016)

I Have a lwb movano with open cab and run a propex 2000.... my habitation intake i have ducted down from High up near the ceiling and blow the warm air at floor level . it works very well and can get temp inside into 24c  when zero outside .... but there no where near as good as the eberspacher .... with that one i could get to any temp ..no mater how cold it was outside .... when the propex has done its job ... back to eberspacher for me


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## Grimola (Oct 17, 2016)

martyncc said:


> I Have a lwb movano with open cab and run a propex 2000.... my habitation intake i have ducted down from High up near the ceiling and blow the warm air at floor level . it works very well and can get temp inside into 24c  when zero outside .... but there no where near as good as the eberspacher .... with that one i could get to any temp ..no mater how cold it was outside .... when the propex has done its job ... back to eberspacher for me



Thanks for your reply.  Yes,  I was thinking of the Eberspacher as I know they kick out more heat and they are not that much more expensive in the grand scale of things.  However,  I  understand they need regular servicing,  then there  was the matter if getting a fuel from the diesel tank or fuel line and as I was going to install myself didn't wan to try to get to the tank which is under the van .  Also,  I read they are quiet noisy (sound like a jet engine when coming up to temp) and can be a drain on the battery.  As I don't plan on using the van in freezing conditions (just spring and Autumn) I decided to go for the Propex.    It seems to run ok but have an issue with having to reset it every time I drive the van (3 flashing lights on thermostat - low voltage).
Been told by tech support that I need to get my electrics checked - have you had this issue?


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## Caz (Oct 17, 2016)

I've had Propex and Eberspacher on different vans. They both sound like Concorde taking off and neither will work if battery is low.

I much prefer the proper caravan gas heaters, although they do use a lot of gas.


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## hextal (Oct 17, 2016)

Grimola said:


> Thanks for your reply.  Yes,  I was thinking of the Eberspacher as I know they kick out more heat and they are not that much more expensive in the grand scale of things.  However,  I  understand they need regular servicing,  then there  was the matter if getting a fuel from the diesel tank or fuel line and as I was going to install myself didn't wan to try to get to the tank which is under the van .  Also,  I read they are quiet noisy (sound like a jet engine when coming up to temp) and can be a drain on the battery.  As I don't plan on using the van in freezing conditions (just spring and Autumn) I decided to go for the Propex.    It seems to run ok but have an issue with having to reset it every time I drive the van (3 flashing lights on thermostat - low voltage).
> Been told by tech support that I need to get my electrics checked - have you had this issue?



The two obvious questions I guess would be, what's the battery voltage reading when you are getting the flashes, and how long (and what thickness) is the wiring to the propex (maybe too much internal resistance?)


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## Private (Oct 17, 2016)

*Starter circuit*



Grimola said:


> It seems to run ok but have an issue with having to reset it every time I drive the van (3 flashing lights on thermostat - low voltage).
> Been told by tech support that I need to get my electrics checked - have you had this issue?



Could your heater be linked into your starter battery circuit? As it only occurs when you have driven the van it may be picking up the voltage drop created by starting the engine. Try just starting the van without moving.


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## Grimola (Oct 17, 2016)

Private said:


> Could your heater be linked into your starter battery circuit? As it only occurs when you have driven the van it may be picking up the voltage drop created by starting the engine. Try just starting the van without moving.



The heater is not connected to the starter battery connected to 2 x 115ah exide batteries (only 8 months old)which are charged via a solar panel and sterling B2B charger and show over 13v on the volt meter.  The wire run to the battery  is about 4m - I think the wire is 1.5mm2 (21 amp) wire which is thicker than the wire supplier with the heater.  I will start the van tonight but wont move and see if it happens again


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## martyncc (Oct 17, 2016)

Grimola said:


> Thanks for your reply.  Yes,  I was thinking of the Eberspacher as I know they kick out more heat and they are not that much more expensive in the grand scale of things.  However,  I  understand they need regular servicing,  then there  was the matter if getting a fuel from the diesel tank or fuel line and as I was going to install myself didn't wan to try to get to the tank which is under the van .  Also,  I read they are quiet noisy (sound like a jet engine when coming up to temp) and can be a drain on the battery.  As I don't plan on using the van in freezing conditions (just spring and Autumn) I decided to go for the Propex.    It seems to run ok but have an issue with having to reset it every time I drive the van (3 flashing lights on thermostat - low voltage).
> Been told by tech support that I need to get my electrics checked - have you had this issue?



yes my propex is the same .. but i have found if i turn it off by turning down the thermostat its ok when i turn the thermostat back up it starts ok... if i turn it off by switching the rocker switch to the mid position i need to reset when i try to start it again ...try it see if its the same on yours


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## Grimola (Oct 17, 2016)

hextal said:


> The two obvious questions I guess would be, what's the battery voltage reading when you are getting the flashes, and how long (and what thickness) is the wiring to the propex (maybe too much internal resistance?)



The heater is not connected to the starter battery connected to 2 x 115ah exide batteries (only 8 months old)which are charged via a solar panel and sterling B2B charger and show over 13v on the volt meter. The wire run to the battery is about 4m - I think the wire is 1.5mm2 (21 amp) wire which is thicker than the wire supplier with the heater. I will start the van tonight but wont move and see if it happens again 

I am no electrician  - should I be using a thinner wire similar  with the wire used in the loom that came with the heater.  I am certain my batteries are producing enough power


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## hextal (Oct 17, 2016)

Grimola said:


> The heater is not connected to the starter battery connected to 2 x 115ah exide batteries (only 8 months old)which are charged via a solar panel and sterling B2B charger and show over 13v on the volt meter. The wire run to the battery is about 4m - I think the wire is 1.5mm2 (21 amp) wire which is thicker than the wire supplier with the heater. I will start the van tonight but wont move and see if it happens again
> 
> I am no electrician  - should I be using a thinner wire similar  with the wire used in the loom that came with the heater.  I am certain my batteries are producing enough power



Nothing is jumping out there as an obvious issue. Connections all ok?


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## Private (Oct 17, 2016)

*Thicker is better*



Grimola said:


> The heater is not connected to the starter battery connected to 2 x 115ah exide batteries (only 8 months old)which are charged via a solar panel and sterling B2B charger and show over 13v on the volt meter. The wire run to the battery is about 4m - I think the wire is 1.5mm2 (21 amp) wire which is thicker than the wire supplier with the heater. I will start the van tonight but wont move and see if it happens again
> 
> I am no electrician  - *should I be using a thinner wire similar*  with the wire used in the loom that came with the heater.  I am certain my batteries are producing enough power



No need to use thinner wire. Thicker is better & even a necessity on longer runs so no need to downgrade it.
I'm sure other members will be able to give you the technical details later.


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## Byronic (Oct 17, 2016)

The fan on the Propex heater only draws 2A max. Apart from the small amount used iin the  control circuitry that's it. 21A rated cable should easily manage it and negligible voltage drop over 4 metres. First thing I'd do is check all the connections are secure.


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## Grimola (Oct 18, 2016)

Thanks for all your suggestions Chaps - not sure what's happening. I thought the red lighted started flashing after running the engine but got into the van last night and noticed it was flashing again even though I hadn't started the van (it had been stood for 24 hours).  I reset the heater to clear the flashing red light and started the van but red light did not come on.  I noticed the volt meter reading 13.7 v with engine running,  when the engine is turned off the volt meter dropped to 12.7 after several minutes - the red light didn't come on again and I checked this morning and it still hadn't come on.

I will check connections and earth I think I need to invest in a multi meter. to check voltage at heater end.  As mentioned I am not an electrician and this is my 1st home build which has gone really well so not surprised there are a few gremlins.


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## Private (Oct 18, 2016)

*Cheap*



Grimola said:


> Thanks for all your suggestions Chaps - not sure what's happening. I thought the red lighted started flashing after running the engine but got into the van last night and noticed it was flashing again even though I hadn't started the van (it had been stood for 24 hours).  I reset the heater to clear the flashing red light and started the van but red light did not come on.  I noticed the volt meter reading 13.7 v with engine running,  when the engine is turned off the volt meter dropped to 12.7 after several minutes - the red light didn't come on again and I checked this morning and it still hadn't come on.
> 
> I will check connections and earth* I think I need to invest in a multi meter*. to check voltage at heater end.  As mentioned I am not an electrician and this is my 1st home build which has gone really well so not surprised there are a few gremlins.



You don't need to spend much on a multimeter. Everybody should have at least one of the cheapest ones (£2.87). They can save a whole lot of time when fault finding.

Digital Multimeters - Hand Held | CPC UK


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## Grimola (Oct 19, 2016)

Private said:


> You don't need to spend much on a multimeter. Everybody should have at least one of the cheapest ones (£2.87). They can save a whole lot of time when fault finding.
> 
> Digital Multimeters - Hand Held | CPC UK



Thanks - I am going to borrow one from work and see how I get on, I guess its a bad earth or connection as it seems to happen mainly when I drive the van (just one while van was parked up). Batteries are nearly new and fully charged.
,


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## mrbigglesworth (Oct 19, 2016)

Possibly a poor connection that will still give a good voltage reading but not deliver the required current?

For other Propex users, I had an intermittent  fault - 2 flashes- which indicates a gas problem. Turned out to be the regulator was occasionally a bit off colour.

Mr. B.


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## Grimola (Oct 19, 2016)

mrbigglesworth said:


> Possibly a poor connection that will still give a good voltage reading but not deliver the required current?
> 
> For other Propex users, I had an intermittent  fault - 2 flashes- which indicates a gas problem. Turned out to be the regulator was occasionally a bit off colour.
> 
> Mr. B.



Thanks -  Just thought, earth is via a long self tapping screw through the wooden floor to the floor pan - I will try running earth direct  to  the battery  to see if any change, will do same for live.


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## molly 2 (Nov 30, 2016)

ashbyspannerman said:


> Eberspachers and Webastos do the same, if you cut the power the heater components will be too hot inside and it will damage the heater,


And truma


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## Grimola (Nov 30, 2016)

Grimola said:


> Thanks for your reply.  Yes,  I was thinking of the Eberspacher as I know they kick out more heat and they are not that much more expensive in the grand scale of things.  However,  I  understand they need regular servicing,  then there  was the matter if getting a fuel from the diesel tank or fuel line and as I was going to install myself didn't wan to try to get to the tank which is under the van .  Also,  I read they are quiet noisy (sound like a jet engine when coming up to temp) and can be a drain on the battery.  As I don't plan on using the van in freezing conditions (just spring and Autumn) I decided to go for the Propex.    It seems to run ok but have an issue with having to reset it every time I drive the van (3 flashing lights on thermostat - low voltage).
> Been told by tech support that I need to get my electrics checked - have you had this issue?





Update ....


Sorry for late update and thanks for those who have responded (I haven't spent any time on the van lately).


 After speaking to Propex,   I was told that the 3 flashing LED warning could mean over voltage as well as under voltage.  Max voltage for the HS2000 is 15v at which point the unit cuts out and the 3 led flash appears.  I tested with a multi meter and saw that with the engine running the output from the batteries goes up to 14.8v after about a minute or so  at which point the  led warning appears.

I am using a sterling B2B  charger with the setting for un-sealed lead acid batteries which outputs at 14.8v.  I have selected "sealed lead/AGM" battery setting @14.4v and  after running the engine for 5 mins  the flashing  LED's did not appear.

Time will tell but early indications  show problem may be cured - I hope.

Hope this info may help others in the future.


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## 1 Cup (Nov 30, 2016)

*connected*

not sure wat's happening. I thought the red lighted started flashing after running the engine but got into the van last night and noticed it was flashing again even though I hadn't started the van (it had been stood for 24 hours).  I reset the heater to clear the flashing red light and started the van but red light did not come on.  I noticed the volt meter reading 13.7 v with engine running,  when the engine is turned off the volt meter dropped to 12.7 after several minutes -

Thats good, It full 12.7
Your Batteries are/ should be connected . When engine runs should charge at upto 14 volts. The voltage will change
If your use  it, your not storeing it.


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## Grimola (Dec 1, 2016)

band driver said:


> not sure wat's happening. I thought the red lighted started flashing after running the engine but got into the van last night and noticed it was flashing again even though I hadn't started the van (it had been stood for 24 hours).  I reset the heater to clear the flashing red light and started the van but red light did not come on.  I noticed the volt meter reading 13.7 v with engine running,  when the engine is turned off the volt meter dropped to 12.7 after several minutes -
> 
> Thats good, It full 12.7
> Your Batteries are/ should be connected . When engine runs should charge at upto 14 volts. The voltage will change
> ...


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