# Fitting gas hob unitfrom caravan. Attachment advise needed.



## rosebubble (Sep 23, 2014)

Greetings all, hope your all well and enjoying the last few months of camping season!

I've decieded to re-do my kitchen in the van, as when we bought it has a 1 burner smev sink unit in. and we are 2 hob and grill people :!







heres what I got from a seller on ebay for £80 a nice ex-caravan unit.Bargain!

I've build a wooden frame for it and Stixall'd it in, making it easier to attach to the kitchen unit later.

I'm trying to work out how to connect this to a gas bottle nice and safely.

Heres the copper end of the gas hob;






It came with a coupler on it so I understand I can buy a length of copper pipe, but does the pipe come with that little ring of copper around it, so the couple has something to bite on to.???

How do you connect the copper at the end of the gas bottle/regulator?


I'm pretty sure i need to use copper pipe as the grill unit will be quite hot.

. The copper end on it has no barbs so don't think I can use jubilee clips and a normal gas hose?

Also need to think about how to make the grill shelf safe? Any ideas do i need fire-board or something or am I going over board? tin foil maybe/ply shelf+grill tray?

ALso if you look at this pic where the gas comes out is large air holes as marked? This normal?






Any help much appropriated 1st kitchen build here :tongue:


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## jamesmarshall (Sep 23, 2014)

The gaps near the taps are normal; air is drawn in to optimise combustion.
I suspect the gas pipe is 8mm though it might be 10mm. 
The two fittings (Gas cocks) I have attached come with back nuts and olives. the bit on your pipe is the remainder of a compression fitting (back nut and olive. If the thread on the new fitting is the same as the thread on the bit on your pipe you will be able to connect directly to the pipe, just remove the back nut and olive from the new fitting.
The other gas cock has a connection for a rubber hose. Attach that by means of a jubilee clip .
I like to wrap a little bit of gas PTFE tape around the compression olive prior to tightening the back nut.


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## n brown (Sep 23, 2014)

this  http://www.screwfix.com/p/conex-com...g - Plumbing&gclid=CMzF276_98ACFYrpwgodsqcAuw     is the fitting i would use, it comes with olives,and a caravan accessory shop will sell you a length of pipe. you will also need an 8mm bulkhead connector which goes on the bottle end of the pipe ,this is what the flexxi orange gas pipe from your bottle fits to

having the front of the grill open and lining the sides and back with aluminium or tiles,is usually all that's needed as the flame is far enough away from everything to be safe
tighten the joint up finger tight then another one and a half turns with  a spanner,check all joints with soapy water,if it blows bubbles ,tighten !
you can get a barbed fitting to put the flexi hose directly on to the hob,but i don't like rubber being that close to heat !


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## runnach (Sep 23, 2014)

Where are you located Rosebubble ? 

Channa


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## rosebubble (Sep 23, 2014)

thanks for all the sound advice all, gonna have a look through your links now. Good tip with the soapy water, Im up in Northumberland Channa.

It came with the 8mm Compression Straight Coupling n Brown,forgot to photograph it, good to know what its called though! Pipe is deffo 8 mill.

When you speak of "olives" is that the little copper ring around the pipe? How are they attached? D0 you just slide one down the pipe to the length you need?Just missing a piece of the puzzle still.

Cheers

RB


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## rosebubble (Sep 23, 2014)

aaah got it;

Compression fitting - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


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## runnach (Sep 23, 2014)

rosebubble , I am seriously uncomfortable with this thread, it is obvious from the questions you are asking you haven't got a clue , moreover playing with gas and clueless isn't a good recipe.

The reason I asked your location is I would help you do it. But you are a little too far away. Perhaps there is a member close by that would give you a hand.?


Only by having a go do we learn and I appreciate your enthusiasm I would never knock that , but gas is the wrong thing to play about with and get it wrong . I do hope you take this post in the spirit intended.

You mention safety a couple of times in the op ..would it help someone giving a hand ? 


Channa


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## FULL TIMER (Sep 23, 2014)

Well said Channa I was thinking the same myself and was reluctant to offer advice on fittings etc ,


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## n brown (Sep 24, 2014)

i understand your misgivings,but i think if someone's asking and seems determined to go ahead,then better to get some good advice than get it wrong on their own.tricky call !


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## Tezza33 (Sep 24, 2014)

n brown said:


> i understand your misgivings,but i think if someone's asking and seems determined to go ahead,then better to get some good advice than get it wrong on their own.tricky call !



I agree with all the above but we all started off not knowing and that was before we had the Internet to advise us, if you insist on doing it yourself then af least get it checked after, if you have done the installation a safety check is a small price to pay


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## maingate (Sep 24, 2014)

Did you know that it is legally possible to install gas fired equipment but illegal to turn on the tap (or bottle) and send gas down the line without it being tested and passed by a suitably qualified person.

If anything bad was to happen you could be held personally responsible for any deaths or injuries sustained to others.

Just sayin'


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## rosebubble (Sep 24, 2014)

I appreciate your concerns Canna, and the offer for help,but I'm not daft mate! My confusion was in the parts to buy and dealing with the copper pipe. I've order gas PTFE tape ,isolation tap,  and think I can manage to tighten a jubilee clip and connect the back nut from the cooker.

Everything useful I've ever learned came from forums and the internet. I'm hoping to convert more vans, so I'm getting there now,fitting leisure battery's, full 12v rewiring,etc..

I will post some pics of the finished job, so you can cast your eyes over it. Next time my house boiler goes wonky,I'll get the engineer to have a peek at it,he'sa good sort.

Cheers

RB


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## Deleted member 37170 (Sep 24, 2014)

You sound as though you know what to do but at the risk of getting shot at....  Don't forget to put a vent hole through the floor of the van directly underneath the cooker. It's regulatory.


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## runnach (Sep 24, 2014)

maingate said:


> Did you know that it is legally possible to install gas fired equipment but illegal to turn on the tap (or bottle) and send gas down the line without it being tested and passed by a suitably qualified person.
> 
> If anything bad was to happen you could be held personally responsible for any deaths or injuries sustained to others.
> 
> Just sayin'


Interesting comment Jim, certainly true in statics and houses etc. But I know for a fact that some of the MCEA caravan engineers are doing gas but have no qualifications. I was with one yesterday who is working on gas,sensible lad and doing his Acops in December. Caravans and motorhomes it seems are totally unregulated. He was asking me 101 questions when I asked him about pressure testing a new installation he was lost, I find that a bit scary.

However to his credit, he was waving about a reg and pigtails taken off a caravan last week dated 1989 !!..should have been replaced 15 years ago. The caravan had been passed safe by a gas qualified engineer..I can only assume human error. 

For the OP make sure the hoses are neoprene not natural rubber used on natural gas.
Channa


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## rosebubble (Sep 24, 2014)

Luckily there is a nice hole in the floor under the cooker, once I removed the Island table leg base fitting I found it  Thanks for the tips all. Anything useful please add it to the thread.

MIght go all in and do a proper gas box siliconed and drop out hole.DO you all have this kind of setup?

To be fair I like to turn the gas off at the bottle every time I've finished using it. just for safety and peace of mind.

Kind regards

RB


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## n brown (Sep 24, 2014)

self builders sometimes make a metal lined box,sometimes accessed only from outside,but it's a bit over the top IMO.
what does make sense however is to put a 50mm high lip on the front base of the gas bottle cupboard to form a reservoir,so that if there is a leak,the spillage is prevented from getting into the rest of the van  while it escapes through the drop out hole
also makes good sense to restrain the bottle with a strap of course


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## Tow Itch (Sep 24, 2014)

Lots of sympathy for Channa. There have been one or two threads on different tech subjects where I've exercised extreme caution in what I've said because of how questions were phrased and my concerns about the competence of the question poster.

It has raised some thoughts and questions in my mind though:

maingate's comment about needing professional examination pre use. As per Channa I was aware that portable gas appliances are not covered by that requirement. Though regulation isn't always obvious. The maintenance section of the company I worked for serviced our high consumption gas heaters. These required some form of gas pumps and operated at above mains pressure (As I very briefly understood this. I did/do understand very little) but the guy working on the system required no Gas Safe (Or Corgi as it was then) certification.

channa





> However to his credit, he was waving about a reg and pigtails taken off a caravan last week dated 1989 !!..should have been replaced 15 years ago. The caravan had been passed safe by a gas qualified engineer..I can only assume human error.


I'm going to have to add my ignorance here but a definite service life for regulators? I have one I only use infrequently that must have been as original fitment on the ark. Tried Googling "LPG Regulators Service Life" and got something relevant to US regs (and use) http://www.propanecouncil.org/uploa... Life Testing of Propane Vapor Regulators.pdf There is a L o n g original report if you're intererested. They did find age related issues with single pressure regulators but as the equipment was from domestic fitments and thus in constant use I'm not sure it's relative. Found some earlier Korean literature which gave the polar opposite verdict but nothing from the UK. Even tried Camping and Caravanning Club and Caravan Club notes on safe use of gas. Both of these organisations being conservative in their recommendations but nothing found on regulators though both gave different erroneous hose age related info . Eventually tried Calor UK and nothing mentioned with regulators but found this in the caravanning section http://www.calor.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/PDF/using_gas_safely_in_caravans.pdf


> A suitably rated regulator must be included in the connection between the
> cylinder and the appliance.The regulator is precisely set to control the
> pressure of the supply and Must Not Be Adjusted. Replace any regulator,
> which is not working properly, or after 10 years’ of life. Regulators must be
> marked BS3016 or BSEN12864


 However several other parts of the advice weren't legally correct so tried  UKLPG and got the slightly more informative. http://www.uklpg.org/uploads/DOC52F9010872343.pdf


> The regulator service life is specified by the manufacturer, if this is not known then the
> precautionary period should be taken as 10 years.


So had to admit my ignorance but as I don't recall buying a regulator with a service life limitation on it is the ten year rule; legislation, best practice or the equivalent of the life of tyre bullshit that caravanners get fed? Also is this ten years from manufacture or from first use?

How to heat shielding the surrounding area. Rosebubble though not directly relevant as it was a cabinet constructed for a folding camper this was made by good friend Phoenix and the pictures show the insulated area. View attachment 25014 View attachment 25015 View attachment 25016 View attachment 25017
As Mr P succinctly put it 





> We got some sheet ally and made up a tray for the grill to be housed in.



Gas dropout question. Where are gas dropouts actually required? Are they required near every appliance and in this case where would one site a gas drop out if you have a 3 sided box beneath the equipment to act as a heat shield? 

Rosebubble 





> I've order gas PTFE tape ,isolation tap, and think I can manage to tighten a jubilee clip and connect the back nut from the cooker.


I've used PTFE tape to make things work when fixing water fitments but whether reasonably or not I get the willies at gas plumbing with PTFE tape. The olive to to pipe to joint face should be the gas tight interface not some stopping on the outside thread. This may well be an unreasonable thought any insights anyone channa?

I've seen some right abortions on caravans with sections of unsupported copper pipe or hose coming in from all angles and changing from pipe to hose to pipe in all sorts of formations and with no real unifying idea.
This genius interplay of gas water and 12V electrics was an original fitment.

It was photographed by a Mr peridot (not all my friends names begin with P) and as he says 





> Not a pretty sight.  With the very poor termination and lack of any strain relief on the cables it's surprising they've lasted this long without problems.
> 
> The green and white cores have been used (pins 4 & 3) have been used for battery charging / 12 volt supply from towcar, which is fairly standard for the year of manufacture, however the fridge is wired to brown and black (pins 5 & 7). Pin 5 is not used in the 12S connector and the supply to the fridge should be on the red wire (pin 6). Oddly, the red wire is terminated (sort of) in the connector block, but not used for anything.
> 
> ...


Sorry this is supposed to be about gas but there was a dubious gas joint close and none of the bulkhead holes for the water or gas were grommeted.

I've got some idea when it comes to wiring though caravans differ from motorhomes as they cant use the chassis/bodywork for a return circuit and I also know people who can advise me on the specifics. I've no real idea about gas.
When is it preferable to run internal hose as against copper?
How should copper and hose runs be supported? 
Must a hose to copper pipe connection be made through a proper end (Fulham Hose what are the rounded end hose fittings called) or is a  pipe to hose fitting acceptable? I have seen it as OE but somehow doubt it's legitimacy if not efficacy. Any help anyone.

Rosebubble how does the pipe terminate in the gas control valve. If its another compression fitting I'd be tempted to break that and put a new straight length of pipe through to the bulkhead that will form the RHS of the grill pan then use a bulkhead fitting to pass through that. Now whether the bulkhead is best terminated in (the oposite side of the bulkhead, under the sink.) 8mm copper pipe or a Fulham Hose end and we go to flexible hose is beyond me. 3/8” Bulkhead Comp x Fulham Hose Nozzle | Buy Now at gasproducts.co.uk

The above Hamilton Gas Products are a well priced supplier and good source of info.

Though unlikely to carry out his own manometer test could Rosebubble not fit a Alde Gas Leak Detector  to cover his whole gas system. stove, water heater, space heater etc.


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## Tow Itch (Sep 24, 2014)

1st lot of pictures not working.


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## maingate (Sep 24, 2014)

A good informative couple of posts tow itch. I am a bit surprised that portable gas appliances are not the subject of regulation. It's a funny old world when you consider there are regular deaths from faulty appliances powered by bottled gas.

After a life as a Maintenance Engineer, I am capable of installing the gas side of a selfbuild and would be happy to do my own work. This also applies to the electrical installation. My caution was aimed at the enthusiastic (but unskilled) amateur, who may inadvertently finish up with a disaster.

Giving help on a forum can also be dangerous. The OP said the hob was from an old caravan. It may not have been checked out for years and could be faulty. The Copper pipe in the photo looks like 8 mm pipe ..... but is it. New pipe is 8 mm O/D but you could get 8 mm I/D pipe at one time (maybe still can). It could even be Imperial 5/16". Either way, the wrong size Olives could be fitted by an amateur. Although tight, they could leak gas.

Sometimes it is best to give the advice of at least seeking someone skilled and experienced to have eyes on the equipment to be installed.


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## Neckender (Sep 25, 2014)

I retired from being a gas engineer after 44 years in the industry last June 2013 I've also let my gas safe qualifications run out.  With regs changing all the time I've decided that I don't give any advice to anyone on gas work  nor do I intend to do any gas work in the future. Retirement is retirement full stop.

John.


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## rosebubble (Sep 25, 2014)

@Tow Itch, nice build mate, is that sheet steel you've lined the grill tray with? I have checked over the unit, the copper pipe is in good condition, but of course would accept some help if any wild camping gas engineers are in Northumberland  Can pay with a bottle of homemade Rye WIne


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## runnach (Sep 25, 2014)

Tow Itch said:


> channa
> I'm going to have to add my ignorance here but a definite service life for regulators? I have one I only use infrequently that must have been as original fitment on the ark. Tried Googling "LPG Regulators Service Life" and got something relevant to US regs (and use) http://www.propanecouncil.org/uploa... Life Testing of Propane Vapor Regulators.pdf There is a L o n g original report if you're intererested. They did find age related issues with single pressure regulators but as the equipment was from domestic fitments and thus in constant use I'm not sure it's relative. Found some earlier Korean literature which gave the polar opposite verdict but nothing from the UK. Even tried Camping and Caravanning Club and Caravan Club notes on safe use of gas. Both of these organisations being conservative in their recommendations but nothing found on regulators though both gave different erroneous hose age related info . Eventually tried Calor UK and nothing mentioned with regulators but found this in the caravanning section http://www.calor.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/PDF/using_gas_safely_in_caravans.pdf  However several other parts of the advice weren't legally correct so tried  UKLPG and got the slightly more informative. http://www.uklpg.org/uploads/DOC52F9010872343.pdf
> So had to admit my ignorance but as I don't recall buying a regulator with a service life limitation on it is the ten year rule; legislation, best practice or the equivalent of the life of tyre bullshit that caravanners get fed? Also is this ten years from manufacture or from first use?
> 
> ...



I perhaps allowed my original post to be misinterpreted, the hoses should be replaced every 10 years if not before if a visual inspection warrants it.

Regulators it is suggested should be replaced after 10 years but is seen as best practice it isn't a regulation. Personally if it passes a letby test, and the working pressure is within tolerance I would be happy to pass it.

In the main regulators will fail for three reasons, the internal spring loses its tension and allows the pressure to fall out  the prescribed tolerance, the diaphragm breaks down which has the same effect or it becomes damaged with water ingress.

Gas drop outs should be under each appliance, and ideally joints. naturally there should be a dropout where the bottle is located.

Wherever possible, copper piping should be used and supported at suitable distances ( there are regs on this but dont have them to hand). hosing should be kept to a minimum. suitable pipe clips are deemed adequate support.

I almost made the comment originally that gas ptfe tape on a new installation should not be necessary, a new olive and nut should make the seal. If it doesn't the common reason is the pipe has distorted normally over enthusiastic pressure applied cutting it. 

I do very little gas work nowadays, although my card is still valid. I spend more time installing air conditioning systems where compression joints aren't allowed because of the pressures (34 bar) therefore everything needs to be swaged and brazed or flared fittings. Probably not a bad idea to adopt on Lpg if you have the gear ? 

The cost of manometers for LPG are not that expensive and a little rig with a t piece can be easily made to test your own system. new systems are tested to 50 mbar with air.

In terms of leak detection, there are many systems the simplest really is to buy a bottle regulator that has a under pressure shut off ( Upso) it is the little nipple under the regulator if the pressure drops (in the event of a  leak it shuts the regulator stopping gas flow) ...Many of you will have come across these ever changed a bottle and the gas doesnt flow and forgotten to press the little button on the regulator ? well thats the upso !!! 

Certainly my LPG days were a great help in the air con /refrigeration at the beginning the principals are pretty much the same....I agree with Artheytrate the legislation is changing all the time and difficult to keep up with...I am looking forward to retirement but cant see it !!! at least another 15 years minimum.

Channa


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## rosebubble (Sep 25, 2014)

Ok panic over, I've asked my mate at work who's generally handy at everything, he has coupling experience, and is gonna do it/help me 

Cheers for getting me worried all,was well justified it was definitely worth it as I don't want to blow up my nice Iveco and wor lass!!:lol-053:

RB


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## rosebubble (Oct 5, 2014)

Ok Commrades, thought I'd update the thread on how my build is going. Been hard at it for 2 weeks now inbetween life and work. Managed to keep the price down as used foraged tiles for the grill and back wall, foraged floor tiles, lino, pack of laminate flooring in the attic,just bought ply screws, trim, glue,etc,etc....sold the one burner smev for a £100 and wholebuild cost £210.

WIll get finished pics up tomorrow need to glue the final trim on.

Managed to get the gas connected after extensive you-tube research on applying PTFE correctly and the old compression fittings. A guy was fitting a bathroom a couple of doors along, so was raiding his skip for timber for the build and he checked over the gas work and he said it was fine but .get a monoxide detector!:idea-007:

I put about 4=6 wraps of the ptfe round every threaded connection including the regulator.

The soapy water test is a good one. made up a glass 30ml water good glug of fairy and applied to all connections with a paint brush. there were bubbles at both connections so another 3/4 turn on each back nut and there was none. 

Another thing i forgot was some nice zinc plated steel rubber coated clips to secure the run of pipe to the fulham nozzle. ebay for a quid each

Also got a digital carbon monoxide detector coming just to be safe,but will be turning gas off at bottle while driving and at night for peace of mind.

Here's the snaps all and thanks again for the help in a tricky scenario 



























RB


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## jamesmarshall (Oct 5, 2014)

Looking good. Just one point I would make though. When making a compression joint, be it water or gas, I wrap PTFE tape around the olive, not the thread.


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## rosebubble (Oct 10, 2014)

thanks James, i have asked a few people and checked a lot of videos. Only once did I see someone wrap the tape around the olive not the threads? So I opted for the threads instead as the olive, should make the seal  tighten correctly. I'm pretty sure its sound, but will be doing a paint brush soapy water test after a few drives, to make sure nothing is loosening. Have installed a digital carbon monoxide detector too.Finally got the kitchen finished and its looking good! Will get the finished pictures up tomorrow.

Next job is to install one of these, so i can use the van over winter, cant bear to sorn it at the end of the month after just getting it nearly sorted out! 




. Hopefully will be less fiddly than the kitchen build 

Any help,advice,two pence worth always welcome on the fire saftey front!



> Nominal output 3kw
> 
> Dimensions overall: height 390 mm to top of plate, 440 mm to top of flue collar, width max 380 mm, depth 365 mm
> 
> ...



Products

Onwards and upwards.:idea-007:

RB


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## runnach (Oct 10, 2014)

rosebubble said:


> thanks James, i have asked a few people and checked a lot of videos. Only once did I see someone wrap the tape around the olive not the threads? So I opted for the threads instead as the olive, should make the seal  tighten correc


Firstly you shouldnt need PTFE and hopefully you have used gas grade, James is absolutley correct the ptfe should be on the olive ...the olive makes the joint, the Ptfe assists in this,school of thought is the thread needs to be as clear as possible to ensure the olive is "pulled " correctly to make the joint during the tightening process.

the thread doesnt provide the seal therofre waste of time 

Channa


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## caledonia (Oct 10, 2014)

Please don't fit the wood burner in the van!


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## n brown (Oct 10, 2014)

2 things
first ,use a silicone flashing kit on the roof,they are the best and safest way of going through the roof-about 40 quid
second, the best heat insulation,IMO.is metal sheet with a 15mm or more air gap behind it.


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## runnach (Oct 10, 2014)

n brown said:


> 2 things
> first ,use a silicone flashing kit on the roof,they are the best and safest way of going through the roof-about 40 quid
> second, the best heat insulation,IMO.is metal sheet with a 15mm or more air gap behind it.



no idea re wood burners but what i do know with a gas flue 25 mm non combustible adjacent 50 mm combustible ...gap between flue and roof on exit ...a reg actually 

I cant see a difference really gas and wood burner but quite frankly questioning my sanity 

Channa


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## n brown (Oct 10, 2014)

not really making myself clear ! the air gap i'm talking about is behind sheet metal attached to walls and cupboards surrounding the woodburning stove 
as for the flue,for a 100mm flue i'd cut a 200mm hole,minimum


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## rosebubble (Oct 11, 2014)

Thanks for that, i'll redo the PTFE tape, (yes its for gas) on the olive not the threads if that's the way,thats the way!.


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## rosebubble (Oct 11, 2014)

caledonia said:


> Please don't fit the wood burner in the van!



I'm sorry do you have a problem with that? If you haven't got any good advice for me, whats the point of posting that .??

The same was said about the gas, which is working perfectly even with the PTFE tape around the thread.......that jobs now sorted.

Jesus, too long living in the "nanny state" eh! Those who dare win rodney!


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## Robmac (Oct 11, 2014)

rosebubble said:


> I'm sorry do you have a problem with that? If you haven't got any good advice for me, whats the point of posting that .??



A friend of mine on this forum has one in his van. He cooks on it sometimes, and uses it for heating. It's brilliant, I would fit one if I had room. I have used one in a tent.

They are flued to the outside, boats have been using them for generations, so I don't see a problem providing they are installed properly.


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## jamesmarshall (Oct 11, 2014)

rosebubble said:


> Thanks for that, i'll redo the PTFE tape, (yes its for gas) on the olive not the threads if that's the way,thats the way!.



Use of Plumber's Tape For Everything is my personal choice and not a legal necessity. I use it because most of the compression fittings on sale today appear to be of poor quality. It's simply belt and braces for me.


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## n brown (Oct 11, 2014)

don't know how clear you can see this, and it's got it's summer seat bit on 
the burner is bolted to something that won't burn if ashes drop on it
any wall or cupboard side that might be affected by the heat has a thin sheet of metal,steel or ally,fixed to it with screws that go through a couple of M8 nuts behind the sheet to hold it away from the wall and form an air gap.
in this case i used a single skin flue and have metal with an air gap behind it all the way up to the ceiling.

the silicone flashing cone is marked with the different sizes of flue,so if you cut on the line for 100mm flue,the cone will be a stretch fit on the flue,making it rainproof ! clever eh ? assuming you have cut a hole of 200mm, centralise the flue and screw down the metal edge of the flashing using non setting mastic as a sealant
for the ceiling ,either buy an expensive collar or cut a square of metal big enough to cover the cutout,cut a hole to fit the flue,slide it up the pipe and screw in place. here's the flashing Flashing Kit Stove Wood Burner Roof or Shed Flue Chimney High Temperature Resist | eBay


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## runnach (Oct 11, 2014)

jamesmarshall said:


> Use of Plumber's Tape For Everything is my personal choice and not a legal necessity. I use it because most of the compression fittings on sale today appear to be of poor quality. It's simply belt and braces for me.


 Ptfe has its place of course and I wouldn't criticise your approach. When I left the world of LPG and got into the Aircon refrigeration, compression joints aren't legally allowed flared fittings or swaged joints brazed because of the pressure involved 35 bar being the norm .

I spent a few hours learning to braze and with good instruction it is actually quite easy. keep the torch moving seems to be the trick.

lots of night schools when we are bored in the winter months, and I assure you a considered post, But not a bad idea to enrol for those wanting to do their own pipework etc.

The op has chosen to use compression joints I have done it myself and on occasion easier than a braze because its awkward to get to... 

I personally would have measured up and brazed, eliminating as many potential trouble spots I could.
Significantly easier on a new installation 

channa


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## n brown (Oct 11, 2014)

i did gasfitting in portugal with a guy who silver soldered and photo'ed every joint,and i've taken apart gas systems on mobile libraries that were compression joints ,heated and soldered. i'm quite happy with belt and braces on gas and wood burners


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## jamesmarshall (Oct 11, 2014)

channa said:


> Ptfe has its place of course and I wouldn't criticise your approach. When I left the world of LPG and got into the Aircon refrigeration, compression joints aren't legally allowed flared fittings or swaged joints brazed because of the pressure involved 35 bar being the norm .
> 
> I spent a few hours learning to braze and with good instruction it is actually quite easy. keep the torch moving seems to be the trick.
> 
> ...



I'm old school plumbing. During my apprenticeship I learned lead burning and brazing as well as wiping lead joints and lead beating and over the years I put that training to good use.The only high pressure work I ever did was iron work with steam. 
I wouldn't expect a compression joint to withstand 35 bar but as we are dealing with considerably less pressure at the hob, a compression joint is acceptable and I daresay, expected by the hob manufacturer. As I intimated earlier. I have seen a deterioration in the quality of compression joints over the years and I recently had a backnut on a new radiator valve break in two as I fitted it. I wrap a little poly tetra around the olive and never over tighten. It works for me.
For what it's worth, I don't have great faith in the bubble test. When it works it's obvious but it isn't infallible. I prefer to use a pressure drop test with the manometer.


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## runnach (Oct 11, 2014)

jamesmarshall said:


> I'm old school plumbing. During my apprenticeship I learned lead burning and brazing as well as wiping lead joints and lead beating and over the years I put that training to good use.The only high pressure work I ever did was iron work with steam.
> I wouldn't expect a compression joint to withstand 35 bar but as we are dealing with considerably less pressure at the hob, a compression joint is acceptable and I daresay, expected by the hob manufacturer. As I intimated earlier. I have seen a deterioration in the quality of compression joints over the years and I recently had a backnut on a new radiator valve break in two as I fitted it. I wrap a little poly tetra around the olive and never over tighten. It works for me.
> For what it's worth, I don't have great faith in the bubble test. When it works it's obvious but it isn't infallible. I prefer to use a pressure drop test with the manometer.


 Unless you are dealing with gas day in and out most people I suspect wouldnt want to invest in a manometer.

my comments re brazing are in the context if you can do it not a bad idea that way you dont have to rely upon compression joints. The less compression joints the better in my book and yes working at a far lower pressure than Air con.

I still think anyone wanting to have a crack at installing their own system a course at night school is beneficial....not only do you learn a new skill but there is meeting others and the benefits of that etc .

Channa


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## rosebubble (Oct 12, 2014)

thanks for all the tips so far, haven't got the stove or bits yet, so will be a while getting all the parts. I like the look of the stainless steel n brown that's a nice build.

Heres a few snaps of the finished kitchen build and bed extension











 (ptfe now removed and on the olives instead.)









 (laptop table recycled from last kitchen top.





finished off edges with 15mm T-trim, pound shop stick on vinyl and used laminate flooring found in the attic. Water is on 12v blue LED missle switch poking out the drawer left side.

Pretty pleased with it done it all with cheap jigsaw, makita drill, evolution mitre saw and cheap battery screwdriver. Shed loads L brackets and very little joinery skills 

Result!

Heres the spot next to side door where the burner is going to live......


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## n brown (Oct 12, 2014)

*tiling tip*

for anyone tiling in a van- the best adhesive is silicone sealant,and the best grout is decorators caulk


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## rosebubble (Oct 12, 2014)

this is a good build on a friends motorhome.

[video=youtube;ER4tQFvBFfg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ER4tQFvBFfg[/video]


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## n brown (Oct 13, 2014)

don't want to sound too negative,but i'd prefer to see a heatshield against the wall and cupboard side,on a cold day when you crank up these little burners, you often get the stove and the flue glowing  red hot,and i know from my past mistakes that the wall will char at that didtance. anyway a heatshield is also a reflector !


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## rosebubble (Oct 14, 2014)

n brown said:


> don't want to sound too negative,but i'd prefer to see a heatshield against the wall and cupboard side,on a cold day when you crank up these little burners, you often get the stove and the flue glowing  red hot,and i know from my past mistakes that the wall will char at that didtance. anyway a heatshield is also a reflector !



i think he used fire resistant board on all surfaces on that video with an air gap behind it. This guy does professionally i believe.


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## n brown (Oct 14, 2014)

that's good,it's the air gap that#s important imo. i once saw a burner surround made of 18mm chipboard with half inch asbestolux,then covered in ally sheet. the chipboard caught fire in the wall ! that's why i worry !


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## rosebubble (Oct 16, 2014)

Spoke to the guy yesterday about this build. He said the hole in the roof was only about 5mm bigger than the flue and he also left an airgap inbwetten the metal plate that went on the underside of the roof?

Is an airgap needed there? Whats yours like n brown, got any pics of the roof of your build inside that is?

High temperature sixaflex good to glue down the flashing kit with?

Cheers RB


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## n brown (Oct 16, 2014)

on this particular van,the ceiling/roof is an ally composite insulation board covered in pine tongue and groove, the one on your man's vid seemed to be uninsulated metal.  whatever the roof,i cut the hole 50mm bigger all round ,so a 200mm hole for a 100mm flue. the external flashing, which can be sealed with non setting mastic or sika, [i prefer the former so i can get it off if i want ] , will easily cover this hole. i'll see if i can get some pics 


image upload without registration 


image hosting more than 5mb 


screenshot tool 


upload pic as you can see,the cowl is very simple,but you have to bolt it so you can get it out the way to clean the flue


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## rosebubble (Oct 17, 2014)

Thats looking great n brown, nice sturdy stove! cheers for the pics and info!  top marks on the cowl, that'll knock £30 off the build at least for me as I'm aware just buying a 4" steel tube from a manufacturer is cheaper than an expensive flue.

I see the length of your flue only needs to be a few inches above the top of the silicone ring, no need to go higher. 

I  do also think a bigger hole needs cutting for safety's sake so ill be going with 200mm. My ceiling is kinda of double walled 3ml ply with batons in between. (Maybe old caravan Walls)

Still haven't decided weather to put stove on a 6-7" high wood frame box for a wooden storage box, attached to vans floor,,bolted through a stone slab, but as in that build video their stove was on a box because of an award small outside access door in the motor home.

He said the heat took a long time to rise up and get back to feet level, warming the floor last!. So lower is probably better in this van as insulation aint perfect and has  lots windows + 2 sunroof's that don't open as of yet 

I see you have used a steel plate under yours, have you just bolted it through bottom of van?

RB


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## n brown (Oct 17, 2014)

that's my daughter's van,and my son made the burner. i just made a 2'' high frame and screwed an old bit of checkerplate to it,bolted the burner to it then glued the whole thing to the floor . as heat rises,the bottom of a stove doesn't get madly hot like the sides can.
 if you're making a burner,maybe think about welding a scaffold tube through the fire area and blowing air through it, also adding vanes to the side of the burner,like my son did on this one,increases the surface area that's giving out heat . it's not hard to make aluminium vanes that go round the flue for the same purpose. some people have been known to wrap a few metres of 8 or 10mm copper pipe round the flue and pump water through it,personally i think a kettle should always be on !


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## rosebubble (Oct 20, 2014)

@n brown, whats your thinking on using a twin walled flue in the van? 

Is this really necessary or optional for added safety?

I would have though with the flue protected by heat board/air/steel, this is somewhat unnecessary and rather expensive?

Cheers RB.


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## n brown (Oct 20, 2014)

imo it's overkill,heavy,expensive and a fair bit of the heat you'd get from a single wall flue is lost
some people do though !


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## Polar Bear (Oct 20, 2014)

I've always used 

http://www.oatey.com/doc/Great_Blue_PJC.pdf

instead of PTFE tape on compression joints. 

I put an additional tee in the line with an extra stop valve in the gas box - you can then test for leakage with a simple water manometer.

Using a Homemade Manometer

and if you add any gas appliance in the future you are half way there.


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## runnach (Oct 20, 2014)

Polar Bear said:


> I've always used
> 
> http://www.oatey.com/doc/Great_Blue_PJC.pdf
> 
> ...



HI Polarbear .

On a lot of tourers and motorhomes the only way to test pressure is the additional tee post regulator. On statics I use a bleed valve in the the water heater .

Channa


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## rosebubble (Oct 21, 2014)

think I'm going to have to use twin walled flue to at least go through the roof on my camper if not the whole way 1m of single 1/2 meter of twin if possible?

.Due to the proximity of the sun roofs and the  fiamma awing (which I may remove and sell if necessary.) The stove is definitely more functional for up North and Scotland.

looks like i need about 1.5m of flue pipe to go through the roof with about a 6-7"clearance. With the stove build on a stone/timber box.

I'll try and get a photo of the roof section up and some measurements.

From reading this blog;



> The insulation in twin wall flue allows a clearance of only 50-65mm (depending on the specific flue system) to combustible materials, whereas single wall flue needs to be three times the diameter of the pipe away from combustible materials.



The Difference Between Single Wall and Twin Wall Flue | thestoveman

RB


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## n brown (Oct 21, 2014)

out of curiosity,why twin wall just for the roof ? also worth remembering that flues can chuck out some quite large sparks and smouldering bit of soot etc,especially on firing up !. you wouldn't want the awning out or any roof vents open .and if using wood they need regular sweeping


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## rosebubble (Oct 22, 2014)

basically to keep the cost down, as far as I can tell, the twin wall is better for going through roofs. the sunroofs don't open so thats no bother!  Still trying to source decent priced flues.


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## runnach (Oct 22, 2014)

Out of interest RB what do you think the cost is ? I have a Trumatic gas fire, which should I keep the van I am reluctant to replace, I suspect a wood burner gives more heat and better value for money.

Channa


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## n brown (Oct 22, 2014)

not sure how the twin wall saves money,as it's about twice the price of single wall flue,also wonder how it's better for going through the roof. only asking for the sake of other people who may read this thread for info !


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## rosebubble (Oct 25, 2014)

sorry didn't make myself clear there. 

Thinking the twinwall is mainly safer as the sunroofs and awning will be 20-30cm away from the pipe top of van, I suppose the double flue will be safer in that respect. But i don't want to lose heat either, no way hosay!

@Channa not sure on total cost yet Channa, but the stove is £240 delivered. flashing £40 so whole build will be getting £500 no doubt with heat board and other bits. But heating will be free from that point onwards 

I'd rather go with the single walled pipe tbh if possible because of cost but safety is my main concern here. Think I need to get a pic of the roof up for yous to have a look at.

Thinking about using some old road signs ive scrounged as free metal instead of the fire resistant board, sound like a plan?
RB


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## Robmac (Oct 25, 2014)

It may have been mentioned already, but are you getting a spark arrestor. (Quite easy to make your own).


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## rosebubble (Oct 25, 2014)

good plan Robmac, looking into that now.

Heres the roof pics, im standing on ladder side door middle of van.Scuse the rust need to get that sorted!












You can see theres two raised panels which may make it awkward for the flashing kit, although I can just bodge up the gaps with mastic I suppose.

Its about 38cm from sunroof to sunroof and theres a fiama awning above the side door.

Should I be twin-walling through this or not?



I still quite like the idea of 1m single flue from stove, 1/2m twin walled to go through the roof like this setup;







edit; although this does look like a fire hazard waiting to happen this stove.  

Cheers

RB


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## n brown (Oct 25, 2014)

i fill the roof troughs with mastic and bits of flat plastic,too thick mastic may slump. twin or single wall,i can't see any difference,whatever you're happiest with .
[don't like the look of that installation ! although i've seen a lot worse- one guy had chopped,with an axe, a hole in the top of his gas cooker,stuffed a flue in with bacofoil and lit a fire in the oven. got him and his family through a bad winter !]


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## rosebubble (Oct 26, 2014)

good idea layering up the trough with plastic and mastic mate, sounds like a plan. Found 1m of single stove pipe for £21.40 delivered, two of them and I'll be off!

1m Vitreous Enamelled Multifuel Flue Pipe 4"(100m) 5"(125mm) 6"(150mm) | eBay

You think it would be best to get a flexible flashing for my roof or just solid like your square one?

Cheers RB


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## Tbear (Oct 26, 2014)

*Its about 38cm from sunroof to sunroof and theres a fiama awning above the side door*

Even with Robmac's spark arrester (? spelling), are you not going to ruin your sunroof with a gap so small unless you take your vent well above the roof.

Richard


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## n brown (Oct 26, 2014)

rosebubble said:


> good idea layering up the trough with plastic and mastic mate, sounds like a plan. Found 1m of single stove pipe for £21.40 delivered, two of them and I'll be off!
> 
> 1m Vitreous Enamelled Multifuel Flue Pipe 4"(100m) 5"(125mm) 6"(150mm) | eBay
> 
> ...


 that flashing is very flexible,in fact it'll probably bend into the roof corrugations without any packing


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## Polar Bear (Oct 26, 2014)

rosebubble said:


> good plan Robmac, looking into that now.
> 
> Heres the roof pics, im standing on ladder side door middle of van.Scuse the rust need to get that sorted!
> 
> ...



How close is that plastic window? Could it be a problem?


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## rosebubble (Oct 26, 2014)

Yep thats what Im thinking, the flue will be about 90mm either side of the sunroofs. I dont really need the little sunroof as it doesnt open, but would be a job to cover the gaping hole no doubt.


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## rosebubble (Nov 10, 2014)

ok, so I've ordered the stove today, and 2m of single wall 4" flue, good price planetstoves on ebay £42.80.

Thinking about cutting a hole the size of the flue and using this small flashing kit to try and get a good seal on the uneven roof in the tight space.

Dektite DF203 Pipe Flashing

also found a decent price on aliminium tread plate here for the heat barrier.

Aluminium Chequer plate

will be updating the build as I go.


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## n brown (Nov 10, 2014)

the flashing looks good ,but i think you shouldn't have the flue touching the roof metal,even if it's only an inch gap all round - bigger for the ceiling of course. the rubber is pretty firm and will hold the flue steady. i also think it could rattle if too close. 
nice big flange for big penny washers !
as for checker plate,unless you fancy it for it's look ,it's a lot heavier duty than you need,car body thickness is plenty.


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## rosebubble (Nov 11, 2014)

Hi n, the flashing is 200mm across so I will leave an inch or so gap. Ive sourced the tread-plate 2m x1m) from gumtree £25 so its a steal,will have enough leftover  to build a platform to bolt the stove through instead of using a stone. Ive order some Everbuild High Temperature Heat Resistant Silicone (300C) for the flashing kit .So all I need is the penny washers and some self tapping screws.and Im away once all the bits arrive.


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## sparrks (Nov 11, 2014)

How does the log burner affect your insurance? or is it something you keep quiet about?


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## rosebubble (Nov 11, 2014)

yes you need to make sure your insurance company will allow a burner.Some are better than others.Or risk it.

OK so the Fiamma awing has been removed so thats one less thing to catch on fire.:lol-061:


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## sparrks (Nov 11, 2014)

rosebubble said:


> yes you need to make sure your insurance company will allow a burner.Some are better than others.Or risk it.
> 
> OK so the Fiamma awing has been removed so thats one less thing to catch on fire.:lol-061:



What Insurance companies allow wood burners? Does the fire have to be extinguished befor travelling? Just thinking out aloud for potential future use.


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## rosebubble (Nov 12, 2014)

I think common sense would tell me to extinguish any fire before traveling:dance: lol.


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## Obanboy666 (Nov 12, 2014)

rosebubble said:


> I think common sense would tell me to extinguish any fire before traveling:dance: lol.



Curious as to how to extinguish a wood burner if you need to move off in an hurry ?
I have two stoves at home and apart from my motorhome they are the best thing I have spent money on. Cannot imagine extinguishing my two in a hurry without making an almighty mess and filling the house with smoke lol !


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## rosebubble (Nov 12, 2014)

Hi Obanboy, i think a metal bucket and a little shovel on hand is the best bet then douse with a bit water and your off......


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## n brown (Nov 12, 2014)

i drove from algarve to wales one bad winter with no heater so had the burner alight all the time.lots of smoke and sparks,like an old traction engine. don't try that at home !


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## sparrks (Nov 12, 2014)

rosebubble said:


> edit; although this does look like a fire hazard waiting to happen this stove.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> RB





rosebubble said:


> I think common sense would tell me to extinguish any fire before traveling:dance: lol.



See your own photo - A fire hazard. Not a lot of common sense there, which is why I questioned how many people travel with the fire lit? Obviously the door would be shut, how secure are the doors?


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## rosebubble (Nov 14, 2014)

Ok so i missed the treadplate, he found the receipt and took it back to shop! Will 1mm ally sheet do the job @n brown? What do you recommend?

The cowl, stove, flues and flashing all arrived will be getting started soonish!


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## n brown (Nov 14, 2014)

as long as you have the airgap behind it ,half a millimetre will do


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## rosebubble (Nov 14, 2014)

good stuff, cheers fella. Found a sheet of 1mm- 2m x 1m picking up later.


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## rosebubble (Nov 20, 2014)

Ok finally had a chance to get to grips putting this burner to work. I've jigsawed a nice panel from the aluminum sheet, clamped it well and it cut pretty easily.

Installed this over the end of bed divider with  22m thick batons running vertically with about an inch gap on the bottom of the aluminum sheet to help the heat disperse and cool air to enter from the bottom. So i got a 22m air gap also open at the top.

Had a good look at the roof as well,and think i can go right through the middle of one of those panels with a nice 6" circle so 1" space all around the flue. The flashing is 8" diameter so 6" its gonna have to be. Looks like it will be nice and easy to seal in two just having to bend the rim of the flashing base a bit in a couple of places.

One question for n brown , how far do you cut your roof material like wood insulation back from the flue>roof?

Also the flue is quite a distance from the side door bout 13" I think, so not sure it that will need any metal protection?

WIll get some pics up soon as a new phone arrives.:hammer:went the other one.

RB


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## rosebubble (Nov 21, 2014)

pics so far, still hunting for a stone to bolt it too.Getting there, looks smart.







Left a good few inches gaps from the side door, and theres plenty of draught gets in the bottom!MIght board that offwith ply or maybe the fireboard,probably overkill?
Probably didn't need all that ally going up the length of the flue as its quite a distance, might help the stove stop rusting being near teh side door.









bout a 1" gap all round bottom.






22mm gap from combustible board so air can flow.

:beer:

RB


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## Tbear (Nov 21, 2014)

Looks a good bit of engineering to me, not that I,m anyway qualified. 

May I suggest you consider some sort of hearth or spark guard. I grow up with coal fires and it only needs a tiny bit of unwashed coal to send sparks out like bullets. Fine when your door is closed but when you load it up or have it open for a bit of extra heat? Help keep small persons hands of it as well.

Richard


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## rosebubble (Nov 21, 2014)

Thanks Richard a spark guard I hadn't actually considered, which is strange as I have one in my large open fireplace at home!

Won't be burning coal, but wet wood can also spit hot stuff at you. Going to get an extra fire extinguisher too. One each end of van.

Can't wait to get this fired up, will be taking it slow, checking temps and surfaces,gaps, with one of those lazer temp guns. To see whats what, whileIlearn the stoves habits.

RB


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## jamesmarshall (Nov 21, 2014)

rosebubble said:


> Thanks Richard a spark guard I hadn't actually considered, which is strange as I have one in my large open fireplace at home!
> 
> Won't be burning coal, but wet wood can also spit hot stuff at you. Going to get an extra fire extinguisher too. One each end of van.
> 
> ...



Aldi are selling 6kg powder extinguishers £19.00 (I think that's the price)


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## rosebubble (Nov 21, 2014)

Thanks James thats the one im after!


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## n brown (Nov 21, 2014)

looking more than good

just to clarify- i´m no expert on this subject,and i don´t think anybody can claim to be. i have fitted a lot of burners,30 or 40 ?, never lost a client or family member touch wood ! 
i fairly practical ,and make a point of learning from my cock-ups !
i would rather advise someone based on my experience than refuse and leave them to follow the advice of numptys .imo


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## rosebubble (Nov 21, 2014)

cheers nb, you've been a good help here,30-40 stoves? I'd say you were an expert aye! :lol-061: Nowt beats experience mate.


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## runnach (Nov 22, 2014)

looking good....

channa


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## rosebubble (Nov 22, 2014)

Thanks Channa,I'm getting there slowly but surely.

I'm still wondering how much of the wood/board and insulation to cut away from flue where it goes through the roof?

@N brown, when you say you cut a 200mm hole for a 100mm flue, does that include the roof material wood/insulation,etc as well as your steel roof?

So your roof board and insulation is about 50mm away from the edge of the flue all around?

Thanks RB


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## n brown (Nov 22, 2014)

rosebubble said:


> Thanks Channa,I'm getting there slowly but surely.
> 
> I'm still wondering how much of the wood/board and insulation to cut away from flue where it goes through the roof?
> 
> ...



bit slow at the mo i´m away but yes, 50mm all round


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## rosebubble (Nov 26, 2014)

OK so after a few days of graft and head scratching finally got this just about finished. Found a nice sandstone from a local quarry for a £5 to sit it on!

GLued it to the floor and bolted through bottom of the van.

Had it burning for an hour to cure the stove.

Can't believe how quickly it heats up my Iveco. Amazing performance for very little wood, namely pallets 

Glad I went single wall, its like a giant radiator.

Heres some pics, just need to pop rivet the flashing on and fix the roof metal plate to hide the holes.



























warm at last after building in the cold 


WIll just need to seal the spigot as was letting out a bit of smoke.

bit of high temp heat silicone should do it.

Cheers

RB


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## rosebubble (Dec 2, 2014)

still not got my ceiling put back together, as usual when re converting, doing one job, turns into many more. Found a persistent leak running down the seam just behind the passenger cab.

http://z6.ifrm.com/4812/70/0/p1021287/IMG_20120410_154843.jpg

mines not as bad as that, but seems to be a common problem in the ivecos.

Im struggling to understand why they put so many odd shaped panels on the roof, its a proper rust magnet as water just sits in them!! Overly engineered i think!

Ive got some captain tolleys crack cure but its hard to see where the water is getting in.

I want a better solution so I got a tube of Caravan IBL 99 non setting masic  stuff to cover seam,that my best option you think? Inside and outside seam?

Need to get up  on roof  with a dremel/sander  clean it all up, and apply plenty of hammerite me thinks before i get more leaks.

Need to change the name of this thread to the ever expanding noob convertor knowledge base 

Any advice always welcome

Cheers RB


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## rosebubble (Dec 12, 2014)

The stoves going well now, made a few adjustments cut a lot of the aluminium that was blocking the flue heat.Been hanging out in the van of a night time its warmer than my house!

Went from 3 Celsius in the van to about 26 in about a hour half. Glad I got a few draughts still!:wacko:
]
Magic!


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## rosebubble (Jan 14, 2015)

Hi all, Im having terrible trouble trying to seal the spigot to the flue, I've tried everything, building a little collar from a leftover bit of flue,and hammered that in to fill the gap, fire cement, seems ok for a while, but cracks and starts leaking fumes, 2 different types of silicone over the collar, still seeing fumes coming off it,looks like its never going to seal properly,smoke alarm firing! I'm at my wits end with it now. I realize silicone in the van is probably the only way forward with this as it can take a bit of wobble, but just dosn't seem to be working for me, im using 300c stuff, tried some expensive 1200c stuff off ebay but just fumed and was very poor indeed. 

The silicon joining the 2 flue pipes together is fine, all leaks are coming form the bottom. DO I need to get the silicone deep inside the spigot? as laying and smoothing it down on top isnt working? What am I doing wrong........Nigel help!:mad1:

The only thing I haven't tried is fire rope but the gap aint that wide?!??!

Maybe the cheap flue pipe i bought from ebay is just a bad fit? god knows!

RB


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## n brown (Jan 14, 2015)

this is unusual, normally,the draught up the flue as hot air  rises will suck fumes up,and leaks don't notice as they'll be sucking in air rather than letting smoke out.
i can only suggest smear exhaust paste around the spigot,maybe using thin rope as well,then bed the flue onto it
maybe this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hi-Temp-1...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3ce485b8bc


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## Neckender (Jan 14, 2015)

Soak the fire rope in water first then force it around spigot with screw driver blade or similar then finish off with collar of fire cement smoothed of with water.

John.


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## rosebubble (Jan 14, 2015)

thanks guys, the draw seems absolutely fine on it as well, as you can sit with the door open! I'll give the rope and paste a whirl,thanks for the links! Much appreciated!

RB


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## n brown (Jan 14, 2015)

just went back to look at your photo of the stove and see that the outlet is female,which seems pretty [dumb to me] on the part of the stove maker ! simple common sense would suggest that a male outlet going into the flue is a better idea


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## rosebubble (Jan 14, 2015)

The fire was working fine we were out and had it on for an hour mid-blast before it starts fumming. Its been pretty windy up here, I wonder if its the wind pushing smoke back down the chimmey?

 Still a gaps a gap and its getting out which is no good,should run trouble free, 3mm rope ordered, fingers crossed.

RB


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## rosebubble (Jan 14, 2015)

aye mate, it would be a lot easier if it was a male bottom. oh er :dance:


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## rosebubble (Jan 19, 2015)

oh dear, i see the problem now, one of the welds has cracked on the back of the stove.: I can see fire though a crack in theback!!! 
I'm sure he'll replace for me though, hes a nice Guy and its a lovely burner and well made,through and through just got unlucky on this one I

Onwards and upwards.

RB


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