# Leaking Flettner



## whitevanwoman (Jan 31, 2012)

I have 2 Flettner air vents in the roof of the tranny and both are leaking. As I don't know who they were fitted by, I don't think there's any point in contacting Flettner who (I think) offer a lifetime guarantee. Has anyone else had this problem and solved it?

I was wondering about running some bath sealant around the outside join to the roof to see if that helped. Shutting the vents inside has helped a little but not solved the problem, and that means more condensation anyway.


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## oldish hippy (Jan 31, 2012)

might just need new gasket as the gasket may have perished


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## runnach (Jan 31, 2012)

Idont think bathroom sealant is durable enough in the longterm, better off with sikaflex

channa


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## whitevanwoman (Feb 1, 2012)

Thanks for the advice. I've emailed Flettner asking where I can get a replacement gasket as I've not been able to find any online anywhere. You never know, they might even send me 2 new replacement units. I've downloaded the fitting instructions so I'll have a look at the vents tomorrow (if its dry) and check that the bolts are secure etc.


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## Canalsman (Feb 1, 2012)

If you need but can't get new gaskets, it may be feasible just to refit the vents with Sikaflex 512 as sealant.


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## Canalsman (Feb 1, 2012)

Just looked up Flettner - didn't know what they were ... So that's what those rotating roof vents are called!


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## Firefox (Feb 1, 2012)

Bath sealant probably will fail in a while. Use Carafax IDL 99 non drying flexible bedding sealant. You could use Sikaflex 512 but it is like a glue as well, and you wont ever get the vents out again without considerable effort.


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## Deleted member 13859 (Feb 1, 2012)

hi
it depends where there fitted on the roof, it may be that they are not on a flat surface! the roof sometimes have small steps in and you may need to put an additional piece of gasket/rubber to make it level!!

have you thought about making a gasket out of an old lorry innertube or simular type of thing !!!. I think the main problem you may find is unduing the bolts the hold it on, they should be stainless steel which dont rust.

good luck and keep us posted.

tranivanman:goodluck::goodluck:


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## whitevanwoman (Feb 1, 2012)

How's this for service?

I emailed Flettner last night asking where I could obtain new gaskets, and have had a reply (edit - from the Head of Sales, no less) saying that they will send me 2 replacements (presumably free of charge as no payment was mentioned) in today's post.


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## oldish hippy (Feb 1, 2012)

nice one that is good service


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## mitzimad (Feb 1, 2012)

allways nice to hear companies that are willing to send out small parts foc i think it generates so much good will what a contrast to dometic who charge a £10 min charge
ive recently got a new mixer tap foc from smevs despite having bought the original one 16 months earlier


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## Deleted member 13859 (Feb 1, 2012)

whitevanwoman said:


> How's this for service?
> 
> I emailed Flettner last night asking where I could obtain new gaskets, and have had a reply (edit - from the Head of Sales, no less) saying that they will send me 2 replacements (presumably free of charge as no payment was mentioned) in today's post.



now thats a result, wonderful service as well.:wave:


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## whitevanwoman (Feb 1, 2012)

Yes, I'm really impressed. And happy to recommend to others, so everyone's happy


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## whitevanwoman (Feb 15, 2012)

*sighs

Nothing is ever straight forward... I've had to saw off the wooden plank screwed to the roof bars on the Tranny as the screws are rusted in and I can't get them undone... have removed the top of the vent, but the 4 screws holding the base to the roof, under which is the rubber gasket which needs replacing, are rusted solid, I've WD'd them and tried tapping them with a hammer to break the rust seal but no good, and the cross hatch thread in the screws is now wearing away so I can't get a decent hold with the screwdriver any more  

And I've discovered a patch of rust about 2" x 1" next to the join where the base meets the roof so am wondering what I'll find underneath when / if I ever get the damn screws undone. Paint has just flaked off when I investigated. 

So any ideas on how to proceed? I'm thinking I may have to resort to trying to hacksaw through the screws but it's going to be difficult if not impossible to get the blade between the base of the vent and the roof of the van. 

For the moment, I'm doing a temp botch repair by instead of replacing the vent, putting a circular plastic CD case over the top with a hole in the centre for the bolt so that it can be fixed firmly into place and some bathroom sealant. That should give me a couple of weeks to sort it out properly.

On the plus side, there's a cracking view up there across the valley...


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## Bigpeetee (Feb 15, 2012)

Without seeing the problem it's difficult, but if you drill the heads off the screws then the plate will drop off.

You can then get a pair of mole grips on the remaining part of the screw and unscrew after soaking in penetrating oil.

I find proper penetrating oil better than WD40

When you replace the screws use a minute amount of grease on the thread to lubricate and facilitate future removal.

Are they self tapping screws ie no nut on the other side.?

PS I'm told that WD40 means Water Dispersant for 40 days, that's how the manufacturers called it.


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## Canalsman (Feb 15, 2012)

You'll probably have to drill the screws out, Jess.

When you replace them, make sure you use stainless steel replacements.

The rust patch should be sanded to get rid of any loose rust. The use Kurust, followed by primer, before painting with touch-up paint.

An alternative, would be to mask off an area around the vent and paint with Hammerite smooth once you've removed the rust. Two coats should do the trick. You can get Hammerite in white so it should be fairly inconspicuous.


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## whitevanwoman (Feb 15, 2012)

Here's the fitting diagram, the screws are marked as "not supplied" on the diagram, there's 4 of them. I can't see any nuts on the inside of the van because of the cover but from the diagram it doesn't look like there are nuts on those screws. I've removed the rotor section. 

http://www.flettner.co.uk/2000_A4_INSTRUCTIONS


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## Bigpeetee (Feb 15, 2012)

An alternative is to fit a roof light, let in loads of light, can be open or shut, and will remove the rust in one hit

Try:Caravan Motorhome Roof Light /Vent | eBay


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## Canalsman (Feb 15, 2012)

The screws will be self-tapping. That means they don't need any nuts to retain them, they just tighten into the sheet steel of the roof.

As Bigpeetee says, if you drill of the screw heads, the vent can then be removed leaving the remains of the screws standing proud of the roof.

Put a cloth or similar round the screws (to protect the roof), and clamp vice grips (Mole) to the remains of the screws.

Rotate anti-clockwise to remove.

Use stainless screws when refitting.


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## whitevanwoman (Feb 15, 2012)

To Bigpeetee

That was my plan for the front vent, but I was just going to keep the flettner in the back. But I had already begun to think the same as you. 

The front one isn't leaking as bad as the back one so I could maybe just about afford to do one every couple of months or so. But am hesitant to start jigsawing holes in the roof, so I might wimp out and get my mate, who runs a car bodyshop, to do it, hopefully at mate's rates. 

I've seen roof lights on ebay round about £40, is that a decent price?


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## Bigpeetee (Feb 15, 2012)

whitevanwoman said:


> To Bigpeetee
> 
> That was my plan for the front vent, but I was just going to keep the flettner in the back. But I had already begun to think the same as you.
> 
> ...



This is the cheapest on Ebay:  Caravan Motorhome Roof Light /Vent | eBay

£20 inc P&P


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## n brown (Feb 15, 2012)

don't use silicone it just makes doing things properly later harder.its rubbish on the outside of the van,get that stuff firefox said or similar,any camping shop has it.dry around the vent and just whack it on and spread it about with a spatula.it can be removed easily years later with white spirit.this will stop the leak till its warm enough to put a light in
that one on e bay is a mini heki,normally £100 and will go up a bit yet,£40 is a good price for a new one


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## whitevanwoman (Feb 16, 2012)

I'm just about to buy this one but thought I'd check first that it is the right one, I don't mind about it being beige 

CARAVAN 280 X 280 ROOF COMPLETE LIGHT WITH FLYNET BEIGE | eBay


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## Bigpeetee (Feb 16, 2012)

whitevanwoman said:


> I'm just about to buy this one but thought I'd check first that it is the right one, I don't mind about it being beige
> 
> CARAVAN 280 X 280 ROOF COMPLETE LIGHT WITH FLYNET BEIGE | eBay



Looks good to me


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## n brown (Feb 16, 2012)

whitevanwoman said:


> I'm just about to buy this one but thought I'd check first that it is the right one, I don't mind about it being beige
> 
> CARAVAN 280 X 280 ROOF COMPLETE LIGHT WITH FLYNET BEIGE | eBay



that will do the job.doesn't say what roof thickness it's for so probably only has one size.these need a wooden frame made,can be pretty crude as never seen again,but has to be same thickness as ribs,then the 2 parts of the vent are joined by screws to pull them together. more info as needed


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## Firefox (Feb 16, 2012)

They are mostly made to fit on flat surfaces and your roof will probably have ribs. So you need to space the rooflight up a little, with plastic spacers or even WBP ply packers of the right thickness, so you get a min thickness of say 5mm mastic over the ribs when the screws pull the roof light down. Then you fill up the spaces in between the ribs with plenty of of mastic and have 5 -10mm mastic min over the ribs. A little messy, but it works!


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## whitevanwoman (Feb 16, 2012)

Thanks for the advice everyone, very helpful. 

Yesterday's temporary job seems to have actually solved the problem, it's been raining all day and there's not been a drop come through. And it survived a 10 mile motorway trip and return yesterday without budging so I'm quite pleased, and it's taken the pressure off having to get it sorted properly ASAP. Plus it's letting in a little bit of light, not much but enough to just see by instead of pitch blackness with all doors shut. 

Interestingly this suggests that the leak is not as the result of a worn out gasket as the plastic CD cover doesn't quite cover the whole of the outer perimeter of the base of the flettner and so if the gasket and / or sealant had failed, it would still be leaking. So I'm debating about making my temporary job more permanent and leaving it as it is, although I will need to do some repair work on the rusty patch I found. 

I'm guessing from the look of the rotor section which I've removed that the vents were probably installed when the van was new, and so are about 10 years old. Flettner claims that they will last for years but 10 years is probably a reasonable life span. 

I will definitely replace the front one with a roof light but although that's leaking too, it's over the table area and I can put a bowl underneath it, held in place with a bungee when travelling, and so it can wait until I've found exactly what I want, and done the research about fitting and have got decent tools and the various extras I will need, and hopefully good weather to do it in. Where I live is very exposed to the elements and being perched up there in Feb means regular "warm up" breaks! The rear vent is over the sleeping area and is therefore a problem at night which is why it is more urgent to sort out.


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## whitevanwoman (Feb 16, 2012)

tranivanman said:


> hi
> it depends where there fitted on the roof, it may be that they are not on a flat surface! the roof sometimes have small steps in and you may need to put an additional piece of gasket/rubber to make it level!!
> 
> have you thought about making a gasket out of an old lorry innertube or simular type of thing !!!. I think the main problem you may find is unduing the bolts the hold it on, they should be stainless steel which dont rust.
> ...



You were spot on! I presume you've had the same problem?  The roof is ridged and it doesn't look like there's a spacer on it but I'm not convinced now that the gasket has failed.


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## whitevanwoman (Feb 22, 2012)

Latest update :

The tranny is in the garage today to sort out track rod ends and tracking and I asked them to drill out the screws in the rear vent and to replace the gasket as I'm away in it this weekend and really wanted to get it sorted, and the weather is vile so I wouldn't have got it done myself.

The garage has just rung to say that they've got the screws out and the base of the vent off and the rust patch that I'd noticed is actually quite bad. It seems that it's been badly fitted, located in between ribs in the roof and that in places the gasket isn't even touching the roof hence the leak. He thinks that replacing the gasket wouldn't make any improvement and that the rust would need to be sorted anyway. 

He's rung a specialist window fitter who specialises in van conversions and asked about fitting a roof light instead of the vent but the window fitter has said that because of the strengthening ribs along the roof of the Tranny, it would be a difficult job and that he wouldn't want to take it on because he wouldn't be able to guarantee the job. 

So, I need a Plan B with regards to windows / getting light into the back of the tranny - the window fitter has recommended a side window in the sliding door, blacked out, the job would cost between £150 and £300 - I've said that I'm going to think about it so not to go ahead at the moment. I'm also thinking of either removing the bulk head or cutting out a section to give access through to the cab. But that's a longer term idea and I'd want to get your various opinions first. 

In the meantime, the garage has suggested that the best option is probably to block off the vent hole and put plates on either side of the roof, so I have told him to go ahead with that. At least then I'll be dry in bed this weekend. What are your thoughts about this? Bearing in mind he is actually doing the work now.

The front vent is also leaking but its not such an urgent problem as I can put a bowl underneath it in the short term. However my plan to replace that with a roof light is now not an option so I'm wondering what to do. As I've been considering putting a wood burner stove in the van, I am wondering whether the hole from the front vent could be used for the stove flue. However, I would then need to think about additional ventilation. At the moment, additional ventilation isn't too much of a problem as I haven't finished insulating it and there are various holes in the floor where equipment etc has been bolted in the past, and I can see light through gaps in the doors when they are shut! 

Your thoughts / ideas would be appreciated. Cheers.


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## oldish hippy (Feb 22, 2012)

what are the rear door is it a lift or barn door  get replacement door from scrappy with windows in or replace sliding door with a scrappy special with a window in no doubt there are peep on here who have fitted there own windows  who might come up with a better idea


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## Firefox (Feb 22, 2012)

> He's rung a specialist window fitter who specialises in van conversions  and asked about fitting a roof light instead of the vent but the window  fitter has said that because of the strengthening ribs along the roof of  the Tranny, it would be a difficult job and that he wouldn't want to  take it on because he wouldn't be able to guarantee the job.



See my post above: 



> They (rooflights)  are mostly made to fit on flat surfaces and your roof will  probably have ribs. So you need to space the rooflight up a little, with  plastic spacers or even WBP ply packers of the right thickness, so you  get a min thickness of say 5mm mastic over the ribs when the screws pull  the roof light down. Then you fill up the spaces in between the ribs  with plenty of of mastic and have 5 -10mm mastic min over the ribs. A  little messy, but it works!



While what he says is correct, it is more difficult with ribs, but don't let one window fitter put you off the main strategy, because he is too lazy or doesn't want to guarantee it. Space it up and use plenty of mastic:

CARAFAX IDL 99 SEALANT - Mastic caravan accessories | eBay

Carafax IDL 99 is what you need. I've used it on my van and no leaks in nearly 2 years on rooflights on a ribbed roof. Put the rooflight right at the high point in the centre of the roof so the water drains away from it, it's a well established technique


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## whitevanwoman (Feb 22, 2012)

oldish hippy said:


> what are the rear door is it a lift or barn door  get replacement door from scrappy with windows in or replace sliding door with a scrappy special with a window in no doubt there are peep on here who have fitted there own windows  who might come up with a better idea



Now that's a really good idea, I've just registered on Ford Transit forum so I'll have a look on there once I've figured out what "Mark" Tranny I've got. It's barn doors at rear, with sliding side door. It would be good to have a window in the body to be able to see out both for security and views, I do feel a bit "blind" inside it, and I can always fit a grille to the inside for security.


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## whitevanwoman (Feb 22, 2012)

Firefox said:


> See my post above:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I would still like to put a roof light in if possible so this is useful to know. You're going to be busy, helping me to fit it, as well as designing and fitting my ferret house!  :raofl:


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## veedubmatt (Feb 22, 2012)

thank you so much for putting that ebay link up the shop is 5 mins from my house so on my way to buy some Carafax IDL 99 and will do my roof vent at the weekend


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## Firefox (Feb 22, 2012)

OMG, the underfloor ferret house... complete with removable cleaning panel, I almost forgot!

12V Fiamma Turbo-Vent 28


One of these would be great if budget stretches. It changes 9 cubic metres of air a minutes via electric fan. Good summer air con for Rigg!


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## oldish hippy (Feb 22, 2012)

as you have barn door you can just change the one choose the side the wish to change


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## Firefox (Feb 22, 2012)

veedubmatt said:


> thank you so much for putting that ebay link up the shop is 5 mins from my house so on my way to buy some Carafax IDL 99 and will do my roof vent at the weekend



No probs, Matt. You can use Evostick Serious stuff or Sikaflex , but that stuff is cheaper and better for this kind of work. And cheaper is good... because of the ribs you need quite a bit of it!


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## n brown (Feb 23, 2012)

wvw reading that stuff about garages and roof ribs and window fitters no wonder you're confused.the window fitter is wrong or lazy,you CAN put a rooflight in. the front vent is NOT any good for a flue,unless you have the burner in the middle of the van. taking out the bulkhead is a GOOD idea and having a window in the sliding door is also.with the bulkhead out and the sld window you get loads of light into the van from the windscreen and side window, access to the cab in case of quick escape or just raining outside,extra 4-6 inches of length to back of seats,a chance to look over your shoulder through the sld window at those tricky junctions.etc. making a hole for a woodburner is a lot simpler than putting in a rooflight and thats pretty simple. so get a bit of flat plastic or aluminium and cover up the hole in your roof temporarily until you have a rooflight to fit.


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