# swift kontiki 640 alko torsion back axle



## antiqueman (Sep 22, 2012)

Hi all
New here found a thread on the internet for the torsion bar on a kontiki but it seems it is now closed, anyway here is my story.

swift kontike 640 came back from iom other week did I bounce it of the ferry, who knows???
anyway set of on 300 mile trip and noticed nearside was low at back, very worrying but still drives fine, have jacked up, all swings free, so reckon its broke as have many others it seems, and you all seem to be struggling and talking big money£££££ why can it not be converted to air suspension if al ko axle is rubbish!

Seems I have to mend torsion bar before air suspension can be added so thats that maybe?

More news
Ok set of with my sagging shed was ok on motorway after 200 miles I came off motorway hit a pot hole big crack wheel and swinging arm came out of round bit of axle till it hit body work, what a devil to get it on a tow truck!

back home now if the weather is fine I will pull axle off and see how this silly thing works, if it helps I will put pictures of innards on here any feedback would be appreciated. also any known scrap yards etc for replacements.

Ok pulled the swinging arm out ot the axle this one has 3 round torsion rods which I was not expecting from what others have said, all three snapped which is why wheel slid out against body work seems this is the strong version ha, how the rods are fastened in the middle I have no Idea, if welded it would seem I am stuffed have taken pictures for anyone interested all comment appreciated I think!


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## vwalan (Sep 22, 2012)

hi .bad news .i have often wondered if you speak to peak trailers in bideford on avon .if their peak ride axles would be able to be fitted . those alko have been trouble for years . cant understand how they keep being used .


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## chubadub (Sep 22, 2012)

just been reading your post on TOC , if these are hard to repair or find new parts for does it mean there is a alko chassis based motorhome grave yard out there some where ?


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## antiqueman (Sep 22, 2012)

*yes why*



vwalan said:


> hi .bad news .i have often wondered if you speak to peak trailers in bideford on avon .if their peak ride axles would be able to be fitted . those alko have been trouble for years . cant understand how they keep being used .


Hiya
I was wondering that, I have seen odd threads on this site saying bars can be replaced rather than new £2,000 axle but have no idea how they are fastened in centre of axle have just sent email to peak trailors as suggested.
Thanks
Paul


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## vwalan (Sep 22, 2012)

might be totally wrong but its only an axle . gotta be a better idea . i change both axles on my trailer and the leaf springs . totally different to yours but a quarter of that price for all of it . right out including the wheel nuts . brakes drums wheel bearings all of it . their peak ride is rubber suspension but they do all sorts . might be of help worth a try.


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## Randonneur (Sep 22, 2012)

Hi, Alko Kober are based in Southam in warwickshire. 

They deal with the trade but will sell to anyone if you give them a call. They found me a handbrake cable for my Elddis Autostratus on a Talbot Express with the Alko lowline chassis.

Unfortunately I don't have their phone number handy but they're easy enough to Google.

They keep or can source an extensive range of spares for older Alko chassis, even so, if you need a complete axle replacement then you are probably looking at big bucks!!

Have you tried caravan breakers to see if they have anything?

Hope this is helpful to you. :hammer:


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## antiqueman (Sep 22, 2012)

*alko*



Randonneur said:


> Hi, Alko Kober are based in Southam in warwickshire.
> 
> They deal with the trade but will sell to anyone if you give them a call. They found me a handbrake cable for my Elddis Autostratus on a Talbot Express with the Alko lowline chassis.
> 
> ...



Yes I have all alko details thanks and am  trying scrap yards, just hoping the bars can be replaced, if they can break they should be replaceable in my opinion without totaly new axle, brake shoes wear out buy a new shed!!!!


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## stonedaddy (Sep 22, 2012)

*Is this what you want.*

Hi there antiqueman I don't know where the shoes go in the first photo but I think this is what you are after. It is Item no 200822853936 on ebay. It is used but must be worth a dabble. Check it out and good luck.
Tom .... :goodluck: ....


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## antiqueman (Sep 23, 2012)

*efforts*



stonedaddy said:


> Hi there antiqueman I don't know where the shoes go in the first photo but I think this is what you are after. It is Item no 200822853936 on ebay. It is used but must be worth a dabble. Check it out and good luck.
> Tom .... :goodluck: ....



I really do appreciate everyones efforts here as a new member, I have had replies here and had none on other forums so thank you everyone.
that axle on ebay is older I believe and fastens to springs, mine has no springs just broken torsion bars and swinging arms. This link shows system with air assist added, maybe this would stop the bloomin bars from breaking!!!?? but only works on good axle I have been told.:rolleyes2:
http://www.marcleleisure.co.uk/store/alko-assist-upgrade-19942002-standard-entrance-pi-1927.html


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## stonedaddy (Sep 23, 2012)

*Alko Axel*

Does yours have a grease nipple on each end the same as mine. 
Tom ..


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## stonedaddy (Sep 23, 2012)

*This is worth a try*

Go to Preloved | UK free ads - buy and sell with local classifieds when web page opens click on preloved people, then caravans and camping on left hand side, then camper vans. Now you can look through the threads starting on that page. If you go to the bottom there are lots of pages starting at 1 and going to 136. That can be a bit time consuming so just click start new discussion at top of page and put the question in if anyone knows where you can acquire a Alko axel. This place usually comes up trumps . 
Good luck Tom ..


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## stonedaddy (Sep 23, 2012)

*Mike Chubb*

Hi again Antiqueman while you are waiting for replies off Preloved go to 
No1Gear: Home Page -
Have a look round his site and give him a ring the number is on the web page.  What he don't know about talbots and things ain't worth knowing. I don't know what running gear your Kontiki is running on but I am sure he will know where to get it from. Don't email him as he rarely answers them just ring his number. He is quiet elusive and if he is working down his yard he wont hear it. Give it a while and try again.
Once again good luck Tom ....


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## stonedaddy (Sep 23, 2012)

*Another place.*

One more place to try while on your rounds is J K Towers this is a good little site and he makes things for motor homes and I have had some great tips off him. His name is Steve and the site is Index of / 
I see you have been to the Talbot site cx.cc and asked about your problem you say in your early posts. That is a good site and should come back with some answers just give it a bit of time for them to look round. 
Well fingers crossed keep us informed how you get on Tom ...


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## stonedaddy (Sep 23, 2012)

*J K Towers*

Hi again antiqueman just another little site to go to. This guy makes parts and as a very good web site on Talbots. I don't know what gear your Kontiki is running on but I am sure he might give u some clues where to go if all else fails. His name is Steve and his site is 
Index of /  he advertises stuff on ebay and as helped me a few times. An earlier posting as been to the toc site and nothing seems to be happening there  but it is cx.cc if you want to look round. Hope this posts as its the second time I've wrote it and the last time it seemed to get lost when I clicked the submit button. 
Fingers crossed let us know how you get on with it Tom ....


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## antiqueman (Sep 23, 2012)

*grease nipples*



stonedaddy said:


> Does yours have a grease nipple on each end the same as mine.
> Yes it has grease nipples both ends the black bit of swinging arm you see in pic just slid out like a oops better be careful, anyway it came out easy only the 3 torsion bars hold it in hence once snapped wheel came out till body stopped it luckily or it would have taken brake pipes at same time.its a lovely design it seems to me :scared:


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## Burtie (Sep 23, 2012)

antiqueman said:


> stonedaddy said:
> 
> 
> > Does yours have a grease nipple on each end the same as mine.
> ...


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## antiqueman (Sep 23, 2012)

*phone number*



Burtie said:


> antiqueman said:
> 
> 
> > If you don't mind travelling there is a scrap yard in Stoke-on-Trent
> ...


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## antiqueman (Sep 23, 2012)

*thanks everyone*



stonedaddy said:


> Hi again antiqueman just another little site to go to. This guy makes parts and as a very good web site on Talbots. I don't know what gear your Kontiki is running on but I am sure he might give u some clues where to go if all else fails. His name is Steve and his site is
> Index of /  he advertises stuff on ebay and as helped me a few times. An earlier posting as been to the toc site and nothing seems to be happening there  but it is cx.cc if you want to look round. Hope this posts as its the second time I've wrote it and the last time it seemed to get lost when I clicked the submit button.
> Fingers crossed let us know how you get on with it Tom ....



Ok and thank you for all your help, have put an add on preloved and will ring the other sites tomorow.

I will let you know how I get on, its seems these alko axles are a nuisance will ring them tomorow too.


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## Burtie (Sep 23, 2012)

antiqueman said:


> Burtie said:
> 
> 
> > Yes please burtie. any phone numbers I can get I will try them distance is not a problem If I can find what I want.meanwhile will try and google it.
> ...


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## Kontiki (Sep 25, 2012)

Here's a thread to somebody else who had problems with their alko chassis http://www.wildcamping.co.uk/forums/motorhome-problems/8511-alko-torsion-bar-expert-needed-2.html


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## Kontiki (Sep 25, 2012)

Here's a thread to somebody else who had problems with their alko chassis http://www.wildcamping.co.uk/forums/motorhome-problems/8511-alko-torsion-bar-expert-needed-2.html

Here is a link that sells alko torsion bars ALKO CHASSIS PARTS


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## maingate (Sep 25, 2012)

The axle will be one of 2 types, depending on the year of manufacture. I think on the earlier one you can fit new torsion bars but on the later one, the labour charges make it just as good to buy a new axle complete.


There is a lot of useful information on a thread on Motorhome Facts, I will see if I can make a link to it.


A couple of points: Lack of grease is the usual reason for failure. They need a bit of grease annually (but not too much). You can buy air assisted suspension for a Tag axle configuration but it is megabucks. I doubt if overloading was the reason for failure but only you will now if you have done that.

EDIT
I cannot find the helpful thread on MHF as the initiator has started it in the wrong category and I could be on all day looking for it. Also some categories are automatically deleted 30 days after the last reply. That is why it is important to think which category to put a thread in before starting it.


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## maingate (Sep 25, 2012)

It's your lucky day, the thread on MHF just popped up again.

Alko Torsion axle Forums


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## antiqueman (Sep 28, 2012)

*Alko the firm*



stonedaddy said:


> Hi again antiqueman just another little site to go to. This guy makes parts and as a very good web site on Talbots. I don't know what gear your Kontiki is running on but I am sure he might give u some clues where to go if all else fails. His name is Steve and his site is
> Index of /  he advertises stuff on ebay and as helped me a few times. An earlier posting as been to the toc site and nothing seems to be happening there  but it is cx.cc if you want to look round. Hope this posts as its the second time I've wrote it and the last time it seemed to get lost when I clicked the submit button.
> Fingers crossed let us know how you get on with it Tom ....




This is to everyone who has helped.

Rang alko about the bars and yes they can be replaced they took chassis number and traced them for me and hey ho they have them in stock so 6 bars, which it seems are handed, will be ordered next week as I am away at the moment about £400 for the lot. I also asked for some technical help and they took my number and a very nice man rang me back yesterday, it is quite a complex procedure but quite possible to do it seems, but after speaking to the man if any wants to do the same job I would advise to ask alko for help as if you don't get it right you will beggar the whole axle!
It also seems they do same bars with different weight ratings so will see which mine are when removed, they are colour coded for weight and left or right hand.
If anyone wants to email me please feel free to do so. :banana:


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## Anna (Nov 30, 2012)

[

Ok pulled the swinging arm out ot the axle this one has 3 round torsion rods which I was not expecting from what others have said, all three snapped which is why wheel slid out against body work seems this is the strong version ha, *how the rods are fastened in the middle I have no Idea*, if welded it would seem I am stuffed have taken pictures for anyone interested all comment appreciated I think!


View attachment 8438View attachment 8439View attachment 8440View attachment 8441View attachment 8442View attachment 8443[/QUOTE]

*Hi 
Same thing has just happened to us! Won't bore you with all the sorry details but it happened in Spain and we've now limped back to our home in France, where my hubby has discovered, like you, that all three torsion bars are broken. He has taken out the 3 broken parts. He would be interested to know if you can tell him how they are fastened in the middle and also if you have any other info you could help him with. 
Kind regards
Anna*


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## antiqueman (Dec 3, 2012)

*lost reply*



Anna said:


> [
> 
> Ok pulled the swinging arm out ot the axle this one has 3 round torsion rods which I was not expecting from what others have said, all three snapped which is why wheel slid out against body work seems this is the strong version ha, *how the rods are fastened in the middle I have no Idea*, if welded it would seem I am stuffed have taken pictures for anyone interested all comment appreciated I think!
> 
> ...



*Hi 
Same thing has just happened to us! Won't bore you with all the sorry details but it happened in Spain and we've now limped back to our home in France, where my hubby has discovered, like you, that all three torsion bars are broken. He has taken out the 3 broken parts. He would be interested to know if you can tell him how they are fastened in the middle and also if you have any other info you could help him with. 
Kind regards
Anna*[/QUOTE]
Hey I answered this
will try again later if this works.


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## antiqueman (Dec 3, 2012)

*will try this again it may help*

Hi There

I spoke to alko about this, I have not done the job yet as have had other things to do, the bars are available and they do them in different strengths which are colour coded for weight rating and also left or right hand. the bars go about 1/3 of the way through the axle and are fastened in with either a threaded bolt or a pin which taps out. I was advised that you need to measure height of swinging arm on good side so that it goes back at same height. After the pin is removed you then pull one bar out from the good side and insert a bar to tap out 1 broken bar from the bad side then insert 1 new bar in each side being very careful as the splines are different sizes on the circumference and only go back in in the correct position, I was told if you try to tap them in in the wrong position it will bugger the axle ! next you remove the second bar from the good side and so on. then refit hubs from the original measurement.
This info took a long time to find and I hope it helps you, please feel free to email me if you like.
also let me know how you get on, I wonder if we could get discount for buying 12 bars!!!
This Is information I have been given and can accept no responsibility for it being correct but it came from manifacturer as long as I got it all correct


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## Anna (Dec 4, 2012)

antiqueman said:


> Hi There
> 
> I spoke to alko about this, I have not done the job yet as have had other things to do, the bars are available and they do them in different strengths which are colour coded for weight rating and also left or right hand. the bars go about 1/3 of the way through the axle and are fastened in with either a threaded bolt or a pin which taps out. I was advised that you need to measure height of swinging arm on good side so that it goes back at same height. After the pin is removed you then pull one bar out from the good side and insert a bar to tap out 1 broken bar from the bad side then insert 1 new bar in each side being very careful as the splines are different sizes on the circumference and only go back in in the correct position, I was told if you try to tap them in in the wrong position it will bugger the axle ! next you remove the second bar from the good side and so on. then refit hubs from the original measurement.
> This info took a long time to find and I hope it helps you, please feel free to email me if you like.
> ...



Hi
Many thanks for this info. Will let you know how the repairs go. Sun is shining here this morning so hubby is going to go ahead now with removing the broken bars then we'll source new ones. He's found that the shock absorber is seized solid, so will be replacing both sides too.
Anna


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## barryd (Dec 4, 2012)

It could have been me that started the original thread on MHF that Maingate linked to but the site is down.

I had a similar problem a few years ago.

I think however its the earlier axles that are one unit and with leaf springs and the later ones have torsion bars which can be replaced.

Mine needed a whole new axle fitted which cost me £2600.  I think now if a bar breaks it can easily be replaced but as has alread been mentioned its crucial that the axle is liffted on both sides at the same time so both wheels are off the ground and is greased annually as instructed by Alko.  I think this was the reason ours failed.  Not many people know or do this and as ours had spend so long without it being greased in hot dusty countrys it failed.


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## antiqueman (Dec 4, 2012)

*stop right now, before you go any further!" meat loaf"*



Anna said:


> Hi
> Many thanks for this info. Will let you know how the repairs go. Sun is shining here this morning so hubby is going to go ahead now with removing the broken bars then we'll source new ones. He's found that the shock absorber is seized solid, so will be replacing both sides too.
> Anna
> PLEASE note I was told by alko to only do one bar at a time for some reason, if you pull them all out together it becomes a more difficult project, I have no Idea why, so you need the get the new bars before removing them unless you just want to pull one out, glad it is sunny, boo hoo.


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## Anna (Dec 4, 2012)

Hi 
Well, couldn't get a reply by phone from Al-Ko and they haven't replied to the message I sent them via their website contact page  so phoned the number on the website, which Ed posted a link to re Al-Ko parts. A very helpful chap spoke to my hubby (can't remember if I mentioned that my hubby happens to be a retired motor mechanic) and the chap said he had a lot of past experience in changing these torsion bars. 
Now, he stated that, in the UK, it's always the bars on the nearside which break, probably due to being nearest to the kerb and bumping up on it. He's repaired at least 50 in his time (he's now in Sales!), never changed the other side and assures us that it's not necessary to do so. He's also told my husband how to get the broken bars out (without the need to remove the opposite good bars) and do the replacement. He's away to the warehouse at the moment, checking on his stock and is going to phone us back later to confirm.
I'll post again later with an update!


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## antiqueman (Dec 5, 2012)

*hello again*

Hi Anna

This is sounding good as it halves the price please let me know how he said to remove bars from bad end . it the nearside which broke and last year I had a broken shocker on that side which I replaced but is now smashed to pieces I don't suppose running with a bad shock absorber helped but it was fine for months after that.
Hey might see you in france at christmas :wacko:


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## Anna (Dec 5, 2012)

antiqueman said:


> Hi Anna
> 
> This is sounding good as it halves the price please let me know how he said to remove bars from bad end . it the nearside which broke and last year I had a broken shocker on that side which I replaced but is now smashed to pieces I don't suppose running with a bad shock absorber helped but it was fine for months after that.
> Hey might see you in france at christmas :wacko:



Hi 
Well true to his word, he phoned back last night and is arranging to have the parts requested sent over to us in France. Parts not cheap but we want to get back on our travels as soon as so bit the bullet and in any case, a lot cheaper than an axle would have been and, luckily, we saved on not having to be brought back from Spain!
Obviously, not tried yet but the advise re removing the broken torsion bars is take all the broken bars out, which can be done by utilising a thick piece of wire, making a loop on the end, then feed this on to
 the broken bar and give it a sharp tug. Also, hubby has found a piece of thick garden hose, which he can push on to the end of the broken bar and he thinks this might work instead of the wire. The waste water tank will have to be lowered in order to knock out the retaining pin. 
Also, you have to jack up both sides and take the height measurement of the good side so the new bars can be fitted at the correct height. As the bars are threaded on the end, hubby has bought a long screwed rod (from the local Brico), which he's hoping will allow him to slide the new bars into place, which must be done one at a time.
Hoping to get the parts during next week, so I can let you know how it goes. The guy has said just to phone him if we need any more help along the way.
FYI The spares we have ordered are: 2 shock absorbers, Axle seals, Dust cover, Bump stop and 3 colour coded (in our case blue/red) torsion bars.
PS You hoping to have your camper fixed by Christmas?:goodluck:


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## Anna (Dec 12, 2012)

*Job Done!*

Hi
Ali here ! 
I’ll endeavour to explain how I removed and fitted new torsion bars and shock absorbers to my 1998 2.5 Fiat Ducato Swift Kontiki 640. 

Please note, if anyone needs clarification on any points, or any further info, drop me an e-mail at anderson.clan@orange.fr giving me your home telephone number and I’ll be happy to give you a call. Also, please note, I’m a retired motor mechanic so, if feel you don’t have the required level of skill, I advise you to seek out someone who has. I don’t, of course, give any guarantees and don’t accept responsibility for anything going wrong while following the advise I’m giving.

Right, well, parts arrived Saturday morning (great service and advise from Graham of Camp Europe UK, Westminster Chamber, Chester CH1 2HR Tel. 01244371720 e-mail : campeuropeuk@gmail.com website : CARAVAN MOTORHOME PARTS REPAIRS !). 

I set to straight away. With both sides jacked up, off the ground, I removed both wheels. Then removed both shock absorbers, with great difficulty because the bottom bolts were seized into the shock absorber bushes. I ended up having to cut the bottom parts off the shock absorbers by hacksawing through the bolt (having first of all tried removing the rubber bushes from the pins to allow me to heat them but as they were seized absolutely solid that didn’t work). Before cutting off the bolts, I did make sure I had replacements to hand ! 

Then I was able to remove the swinging arm complete with the 3 broken torsion bars attached. I then removed the 3 broken torsion bars from the swinging arm by removing the 3 bolts and 3 Allen screws, which was no problem doing. I then dropped the grey water tank to allow me to take out the roll pin, which retains the 3 broken torsion bars. 

I found a length of fencing wire, which I shaped into a loop at one end, to slip over one end of the one of the broken torsion bars. I then gave it a sharp tug and, voila, out it came ! One broken end of one of the torsion bars was only about 6ins long and I was concerned that I wouldn’t be able to remove it. However, it came out just as easily as the other two. All this was on the passengers side and although I was told that it was always the passengers side that breaks and I was assured that the drivers side would be ok, I was keen to check that was the case. 

So when I had removed the remaining broken pieces of the torsion bars from the axle, I went round to the driver’s side in order to check the torsion bars on that side. I’ll try to explain how I did this ! I removed the 3 bolts and the 3 Allen screws on that side to remove the end plate. Then using a piece of screwed rod with a nut and large washer on it (which I bought from a B&Q type shop and you can see in one of the attached photos) and a large socket that the torsion bar will go through, I carefully screwed the nut onto the washer and socket rod on each torsion bar in turn, trying to see if they could be removed. I was relieved to find that they were indeed all intact (incidentally, importantly, I did not remove the roll pin on that side as that’s what holds the bars in place). 

After that, I measured the shock absorber bolt centres, which measured 28cm. This enabled me to check the height, giving me a guide for the broken side. 

Next stage was fitting the new torsion bars, which are colour coded on ordering. In my case, they were blue/red. I cleaned the swinging arm and fitted the new dust cover, greasing the arm well. Then I slipped the arm back in place on its own. It seemed to only go in one way, which was horizontally. I then fitted the swinging arm, adjusting it to fit at 28cm. 

Then you have to push in one of the new torsion bars, with the screwed rod attached, locating the splines. *Make sure you do not force into position*, 
as they will fit in easily by slightly moving the swinging arm ! Once one bar is located, the other 2 will follow easily. Then all that was left to do was to reverse the procedure of building it back together. 

There are grease nipples on either side and these should greased well every six months. 

Bon courage !

PS Since I bought this motorhome, just under a year ago, I always felt there was something not quite right with its handling, coming from the rear, which felt like a wheel needing balanced. I did have the rear wheels balanced but now realise this feeling was due to 2 torsion bars having been broken, obviously from the look of them, for some considerable time. Therefore the remaining bar was taking all the strain and could have broken at any time. Just our luck for it to have happened so far from home but then we were very lucky to have made it back to our home in France. 

On a lighter note, I bet not many of you have been stopped by a gendarme for going too slow lol ! Again, luckily for us, he was very understanding when I told him (simply) that it was a problem with a shock absorber !


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## antiqueman (Jan 2, 2013)

*A little confused*

Hi again

Can you please explain how you got the rods in if you put the swinging arm back in first or did you fasten the rods onto the swing arm first, if this is the case how did you know they were in the right position if the inside splines are not equal?

Maybe I am being a bit thick here and reading wrong

my email is paulspeakman@speakmanantiques.co.uk


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## Anna (Jan 2, 2013)

antiqueman said:


> Hi again
> 
> Can you please explain how you got the rods in if you put the swinging arm back in first or did you fasten the rods onto the swing arm first, if this is the case how did you know they were in the right position if the inside splines are not equal?
> 
> ...



Hi Paul

Yes, I put the swinging arm in first. 

Then you must move the swinging arm, adjusting it so that centre to centre of each end of the shock absorber fixing holes are 28cms. 

Then you fix the screwed rod (which I bought from a B&Q type place and which fits the thread on the torsion bar) onto the torsion bar and feed the torsion bar into the centre location point. You may have to 
move the swinging arm very slightly, until it locates into the splines. 

Once that one is located right in, the other two are then located in the same manner, using the screwed
 rod.

Let me know if that makes sense.

Have you managed to remove the broken bars ok?

Ali


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## antiqueman (Sep 10, 2013)

*yes job done*



Anna said:


> Hi Paul
> 
> Yes, I put the swinging arm in first.
> 
> ...


Sorry for late reply, have been away for months looking after poorly parents Two bars came out the third was only about an inch long so had to remove one bar fron the other side and tap it out from the other side anyway all up and running after sorting lots of other bits out due to standing so long and in sea air. my advise is keep using motorhomes.

Thank you to anyone who has contributed to this thread, hopefully it may help others.
Paul


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