# Jacking up your vehicle



## molly 2 (Oct 26, 2017)

What do you carry to jack up you're motorhome in case of a puncture .the jack that comes with a coach built motorhome tool kit would not be suitable to safely jack up a motorhome .or would you depend totally  on a recovery company .


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## Canalsman (Oct 26, 2017)

Recovery for me ...

Not in a hurry so I'd rather not take the risk.


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## Fazerloz (Oct 26, 2017)

I carry a hydraulic jack and breaker bar for the wheel nuts.


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## Robmac (Oct 26, 2017)

Fazerloz said:


> I carry a hydraulic jack and breaker bar for the wheel nuts.



Me too.


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## jagmanx (Oct 26, 2017)

*Hydraulic jack as backup*

I have a medium sized jack

I guess it it worth estimating the 
front wheels carry 750 kg each
Rear wheels 1000Kg
So a 1.5 or 2 ton capacity is safe

But you need suitable wooden blocks as well

Belt & braces but yes recovery !

Tempting fate but....We have only had 1 tyre go flat (faulty valve).
We were on a campsite
Called recovery safer more reliable and paid for ! maybe have to wait !
They were VG arrived after 40mins the job maybe 30 mins and they are instructed to always check the engine oil
Worst case scenario(almost) miss a ferry and have to pay again/more...Travel insurance


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## phillybarbour (Oct 26, 2017)

Fazerloz said:


> I carry a hydraulic jack and breaker bar for the wheel nuts.



Another me to here.


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## RichardHelen262 (Oct 26, 2017)

phillybarbour said:


> Another me to here.



An AA card as with the stupid design of the rear wheel arches on our motorhome even a lot of tyre places cannot remove the rear wheels, it takes two trolly jacks and one of them has to be a very high lift jack.


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## Deleted user 48797 (Oct 26, 2017)

helen262 said:


> An AA card as with the stupid design of the rear wheel arches on our motorhome even a lot of tyre places cannot remove the rear wheels, it takes two trolly jacks and one of them has to be a very high lift jack.



We have an inflation kit but not used yet, or, an AA card.  I don't like the thought of laying in the road and faffing about with jacks any more.


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## n brown (Oct 26, 2017)

a 6 ton jack, a breaker bar ,a camping mat to lie on, and a cordless drill to spin off the wheelnuts once loosened. a heavier duty jack is slower but a lot easier to operate and takes up about the same space


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## dane (Oct 26, 2017)

Had a tyre delaminate on a gravel road in a Scottish forest.  No phone signal...

I use a bottle jack, a hefty lump of wood and the wheel nut tool that came with the van.  Quite a small van though.


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## Mick H (Oct 26, 2017)

*Standard Jack*

The standard jack, supplied with my motorhome, is perfectly safe for jacking up, one wheel at a time.

It's a Renault Master based coachbuilt, but I don't need it for changing to the spare, because I don't carry one. All the wheels have a permanent punture sealer installed, and I carry a 12v compressor.

I carry the jack, in case I get stuck, and need to lift, in order to put something under the wheel, for extra grip.


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## BKen2 (Oct 26, 2017)

Jacking up the van is not the only issue I have swapped the wheels around at home a couple of times and used the supplied jack (Renault Master ) no problem  the bigger issue is getting at the spare wheel.On the Renault it is slung centerally at the back just behind the rear axle and weights a ton when you are laid on your back trying to lower the frame and then pulling it out. So to do this at the roadside would be a nightmare.......I vote Breakdown call out for me.


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## wildebus (Oct 26, 2017)

Just as important as carrying a good enough jack is knowing WHERE to use it! The correct jacking points are not always known and often not used (ever noticed the amount of crushed sills on vans?)


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## wildebus (Oct 26, 2017)

Ref using a torque wrench to undo the bolts... I have always understood that is not recommended as can damage the calibration? 
I don't know if this is just a tale or not, but I've never put it to the test and keep the Torque Wrench for final tighten only.

Not actually tried the supplied bottle jack on my van to raise it since I got it.  Think I will do so to check it as carrying a trolley jack around would be a major PITA.


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## n brown (Oct 26, 2017)

*that tyre looks a bit flat*

now , where's that can of sealant ?


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## RichardHelen262 (Oct 26, 2017)

n brown said:


> now , where's that can of sealant ?View attachment 59093



This is why you should always Cary a roll of duct tape too


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## wildebus (Oct 26, 2017)

***** said:


> I carry the normal Fiat jack and a small hydraulic jack just in case extra lift is required. The Fiat jack will lift any of our vans wheels and it HAS been used in anger. The most important things are good sturdy blocks and a good base to sit the jack on to. Also a torque wrench which will also double as a loosening the nuts bar.
> Our van is 4500kg .
> No use at all having an inflation kit (micky mouse gear) and as I found out earlier this year, a wheel can spring a lea!. Yes, a wheel and not just the tyre. We had to source a new wheel. (I wrote a thread about this)
> Here it is
> https://www.wildcamping.co.uk/forum...3-spare-wheel-cautionary-tale.html?highlight=



Just read your thread ref spare wheel .... confirms why the benefit of having one outweighs the weight savings of not carrying one.  My last 2 cars came with no spares, and first thing I did was buy one. Never used them, but that is not the point.

There was a comment also about accessing the spare wheel ... when I got my VW T5, it took nearly an hour to undo the two nuts that held the wheel up in the underslung carrier. Long breaker bar, lots of freeing agent and totally knackered (me that is) afterwards 
Fortunately this was on my driveway when I was checking access to it!  And afterwards was much easier (too easy as those wheels are a big theft target)
Always make sure you can access the wheel easily!


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## Mick H (Oct 26, 2017)

The reality is, that there will always be out of the ordinary, examples, but having breakdown recovery, should cover any of these issues.

Personally, I've only had to change to a spare, once, at the side of the road, many years ago, when a re-treaded tyre, shed it's re-tread.
That's in well over 50 yrs of motoring. Checking wheels/tyres is a very important job, that should NOT be overlooked.
Unfortunately, many motorists/truckers, neglect to do this, on a regular basis.


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## flyinghigh (Oct 26, 2017)

Fazerloz said:


> I carry a hydraulic jack and breaker bar for the wheel nuts.



likewise! it will take 10 minutes maximum to change a wheel as opposed a couple of hours possibly blocking high speed traffic, i know what is safer in the long run,


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## caledonia (Oct 26, 2017)

I have a small compressor and a puncture repair kit. If it's a nail or a small hole it can be repaired safely at the side of the road without removing a wheel. The kit I use was bought from Mac Tools many moons ago and uses a string type of sealer to push into the hole. Popular with motorbikers. I also have a power bar and good socket, bottle jack and some bits of hardwood to sit the jack on for worst case scenarios.


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## Mick H (Oct 26, 2017)

***** said:


> Had I not had a spare, I would have been stuck as it took a few days!



I took this into consideration, before I went down the route of carrying no spare. In my case, it wouldn't matter. I'm a motorhomer, and free to take my time, It's one of the reasons that I enjoy this great way of life.


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## yorkslass (Oct 26, 2017)

helen262 said:


> An AA card as with the stupid design of the rear wheel arches on our motorhome even a lot of tyre places cannot remove the rear wheels, it takes two trolly jacks and one of them has to be a very high lift jack.



Recovery for us too. 
We have exactly the same problem with the wheel arches. I'd love to know who designed them like that.


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## harrow (Oct 26, 2017)

molly 2 said:


> What do you carry to jack up you're motorhome in case of a puncture .the jack that comes with a coach built motorhome tool kit would not be suitable to safely jack up a motorhome .or would you depend totally  on a recovery company .


Easy to do at home,
:hammer::hammer::hammer:
but away from home, call the breakdown service.
:bow::bow::bow:


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## trevskoda (Oct 26, 2017)

Three foot breaker bar, t bar ,6 ton bottle jack,some wood blocks ,6 ton axle stand,spare nuts and studs,wheel choc,spare wheel on back of van, and mobile phone.


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## Mick H (Oct 26, 2017)

***** said:


> Mick, not very good if you were stuck at the side of the road in an unsafe position!
> If a spare is needed just once, it is well worth it!
> But that is just my opinion!



In an unsafe position, it wouldn't make a lot of difference, because then, it just wouldn't be safe for you to change, to a spare, anyway.

In such circumstances, it's far better to get everyone out, wearing high vis jerkins, and into a safe position, whilst waiting for a recovery vehicle.


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## Full Member (Oct 26, 2017)

*Should I Feel ............*



molly 2 said:


> What do you carry to jack up you're motorhome in case of a puncture .the jack that comes with a coach built motorhome tool kit would not be suitable to safely jack up a motorhome .or would you depend totally  on a recovery company .



............that a puncture is likely I always take a woman along to sort the problem.

Colin


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## Fazerloz (Oct 26, 2017)

trevskoda said:


> Three foot breaker bar, t bar ,6 ton bottle jack,some wood blocks ,6 ton axle stand,spare nuts and studs,wheel choc,spare wheel on back of van, and mobile phone.



Is the mobile phone to ring for a takeaway whilst you get everything out of the van Trev.


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## delicagirl (Oct 26, 2017)

Mick H said:


> In an unsafe position, it wouldn't make a lot of difference, because then, it just wouldn't be safe for you to change, to a spare, anyway.
> 
> In such circumstances, it's far better to get everyone out, wearing high vis jerkins, and into a safe position, whilst waiting for a recovery vehicle.





i had a blow out on a fast dual carriageway in Cumbria last year and so i  called the police who came out and sat behind me to prevent my van being demolished by insane drivers who refused to see the Red Triangle and my viz vest.  They said they would rather prevent an accident that mop up after one....


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## RichardHelen262 (Oct 26, 2017)

yorkslass said:


> Recovery for us too.
> We have exactly the same problem with the wheel arches. I'd love to know who designed them like that.



By someone who has never had to change a punctured tyre.
I would love to get the person that designed the rear wheel arches on mine to change a wheel on it, it doesn’t even look good as it makes it look more like it is over loaded


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## martinmartin (Oct 26, 2017)

*Be prepared*

Definitly a case of be prepared when it comes to punctures,yesterday I decided to take a worn tyre off,my three foot breaker bar was flexing a lot with no sign of any of the wheel bolts moving.Showing the breaker to the garage who was going to fit the tire they said if that cant undo them neither can they,I returned to have another go and broke the knuckle on the breaker bar.I then went to comercial vehicle garage who also had difficulty,after then clouting each bolt five times with heavy lump hammer and 1" type of dolly bar the bolts yielded to a breaker bar.I will now be carrying those extra tools just in case.The wheel was correctly torqued up about five years ago but time has had an effect on it I think.


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## harrow (Oct 26, 2017)

martinmartin said:


> Definitly a case of be prepared when it comes to punctures,yesterday I decided to take a worn tyre off,my three foot breaker bar was flexing a lot with no sign of any of the wheel bolts moving.Showing the breaker to the garage who was going to fit the tire they said if that cant undo them neither can they,I returned to have another go and broke the knuckle on the breaker bar.I then went to comercial vehicle garage who also had difficulty,after then clouting each bolt five times with heavy lump hammer and 1" type of dolly bar the bolts yielded to a breaker bar.I will now be carrying those extra tools just in case.The wheel was correctly torqued up about five years ago but time has had an effect on it I think.


For comercials there is a tool called a,

*torque multiplier,*

They are not cheap

TORQUE MULTIPLIER WHEEL NUT WRENCH

But it might help you.

:dog:


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## martinmartin (Oct 26, 2017)

harrow said:


> For comercials there is a tool called a,
> 
> *torque multiplier,*
> 
> ...


Thanks for that,I suppose £60 isnt bad but I think ill carry a lump hammer and a short length of 1" bar as I have these already,I just never thought to use them on wheel studs but I live and learn.


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## martinmartin (Oct 26, 2017)

***** said:


> I had some wheels removed and refitted at a Ford Quick Fit Centre some years ago, and when I get home, I always check the torque myself.
> Shock Horror! I could not budge, even with a bar, the nuts on one wheel as they had over torqued with an aire gun!
> 
> Obviously I had to return and get them to sort out! GRR!
> ...



I do remember mine being torqued up by hand but I can only think that the passing of time has had an effect in some way as there wasnt any corrosion.


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## wildebus (Oct 26, 2017)

martinmartin said:


> Definitly a case of be prepared when it comes to punctures,yesterday I decided to take a worn tyre off,my three foot breaker bar was flexing a lot with no sign of any of the wheel bolts moving.Showing the breaker to the garage who was going to fit the tire they said if that cant undo them neither can they,I returned to have another go and broke the knuckle on the breaker bar.I then went to comercial vehicle garage who also had difficulty,after then clouting each bolt five times with heavy lump hammer and 1" type of dolly bar the bolts yielded to a breaker bar.I will now be carrying those extra tools just in case.The wheel was correctly torqued up about five years ago but time has had an effect on it I think.


Wheels not removed for 5 years??


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## martinmartin (Oct 26, 2017)

wildebus said:


> Wheels not removed for 5 years??



Correct,Whats your point?


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## wildebus (Oct 26, 2017)

martinmartin said:


> Correct,Whats your point?


general checks, brake fluid changes, pad checks - all tricky to do properly with wheels in place.


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## martinmartin (Oct 26, 2017)

wildebus said:


> general checks, brake fluid changes, pad checks - all tricky to do properly with wheels in place.



Yes I take your point about the brake fluid change as thats been in there about 7 years,pads and checks are done at MOT time as I do less than 4000 miles a year.


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## runnach (Oct 26, 2017)

Blind leading the blind as normal 

Channa


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## martinmartin (Oct 26, 2017)

channa said:


> Blind leading the blind as normal
> 
> Channa



Who is that aimed at then?


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## Canalsman (Oct 26, 2017)

martinmartin said:


> Definitly a case of be prepared when it comes to punctures,yesterday I decided to take a worn tyre off,my three foot breaker bar was flexing a lot with no sign of any of the wheel bolts moving.Showing the breaker to the garage who was going to fit the tire they said if that cant undo them neither can they,I returned to have another go and broke the knuckle on the breaker bar.I then went to comercial vehicle garage who also had difficulty,after then clouting each bolt five times with heavy lump hammer and 1" type of dolly bar the bolts yielded to a breaker bar.I will now be carrying those extra tools just in case.The wheel was correctly torqued up about five years ago but time has had an effect on it I think.



All wheels should be removed annually when the vehicle is serviced.

If they haven't been taken off in 5 years someone hasn't been doing the servicing correctly ...


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## Wully (Oct 26, 2017)

I press a button


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## molly 2 (Oct 27, 2017)

POI Admin said:


> All wheels should be removed annually when the vehicle is serviced.
> 
> If they haven't been taken off in 5 years someone hasn't been doing the servicing correctly ...


.       :mad1::mad1: I totally agree with your comment especially on alloys the last time my van was serviced I specifically asked for the wheels to be removed cleaned  and greased.they said it was a struggle to get them of and charge me £50 ,in my opinion for doing what they used to do and should do on  service .I have first hand  experience removing wheels that have been on for years .I don't think any mechanic would treat his own car like that .:mad1::mad1::mad1:


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## wildebus (Oct 27, 2017)

channa said:


> Blind leading the blind as normal
> 
> Channa


Would you care to explain further?


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## martinmartin (Oct 27, 2017)

POI Admin said:


> All wheels should be removed annually when the vehicle is serviced.
> 
> If they haven't been taken off in 5 years someone hasn't been doing the servicing correctly ...



Just my opinion but I dont agree.


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## wildebus (Oct 27, 2017)

molly 2 said:


> .       :mad1::mad1: I totally agree with your comment especially on alloys the last time my van was serviced I specifically asked for the wheels to be removed cleaned  and greased.they said it was a struggle to get them of and charge me £50 ,in my opinion for doing what they used to do and should do on  service .I have first hand  experience removing wheels that have been on for years .I don't think any mechanic would treat his own car like that .:mad1::mad1::mad1:



£50 to remove the wheels?  how much to empty the ashtray?

Seriously, I would find another garage if you are using them on a regular basis and they do that!

My VW T5 had a problem with "holding onto" the wheels - slightly oversized hub I think as same with both steel and alloy wheel sets.  last time I took the steel wheels off to fit the alloys, the two fronts refused to budge despite some persuading with my large rubber mallet.  
Drove to local tyre place where they have bigger mallets wielded by bigger and fitter people than me and it took them 20 minutes to remove the front wheel. They then swapped the two fronts for the alloys for me.  Total cost .... £0.00
Where did I do next time I needed tyres fitting?  Where would I NOT go for a service?


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## trevskoda (Oct 27, 2017)

martinmartin said:


> Just my opinion but I dont agree.



You should remove wheels and rotate plus light grease back where they touch hubs,also do the stud threads,when of do a vis inspection on b/pads & condition of hoses pipes etc,in law YOU are responsible to make sure vh is ready for the road not some garage ,i do a daily walk round,bulbs tyres general roadworthy condition,old army training.


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## trevskoda (Oct 27, 2017)

wildebus said:


> £50 to remove the wheels?  how much to empty the ashtray?
> 
> Seriously, I would find another garage if you are using them on a regular basis and they do that!
> 
> ...



Wd 40 round the hubs the night before,they will come of easy next day.


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## wildebus (Oct 27, 2017)

trevskoda said:


> Wd 40 round the hubs the night before,they will come of easy next day.



No they wouldn't Trev.  Sometime wheels stick on when the mating surfaces kind of chemically "weld" together (not literally, but by way of explaining the effect) and sometimes they stick on due to mechanical issues.  The T5 issue was mechanical locking, not chemical.


And you think a spray of WD40 would do what 30 minutes plus of very heavy work with a mallet failed to? they must make it strong stuff in Ireland


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## Deleted member 52918 (Oct 27, 2017)

Just a quick word of advise for those of us lucky enough to own a vehicle with electric power steering.
It can be damaged by striking a wheel to remove it or, striking a steering arm to remove a ball joint.

Pullers should be used on these vehicles!!

I have a girder puller for my wheels that'll pull flywheels up to 2ft wide, I do struggle to get it on a ball joint though:hammer::lol-049::lol-049:

Also if using any grease on wheel nuts/bolts, make sure you only grease the thread & not the actual mating surface of the nuts, if grease gets on this then there's a good chance that they'll be over torqued as torque depends on friction!

Phill

Ps., I carry a 2 ton swivel handled jack made by SGS engineering in Derbyshire It's very well made, well so far anyway, plus a couple of wooden blocks, a 3/4" sliding t bar etc.,


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## mid4did (Oct 27, 2017)

I watch when my tyres are being replaced and make them know it.The one I use uses a torque wrench.I carry a 2 ton trolley jack,lumps of wood and a spider wrench and know it will do the job as I check regurlarly.
I have the renault master with the spare in the cage .I lowered it and greased the threads,also cleaned up the road dirt and checked the pressure within the last 6 months.
My brother was caught out in France a couple years back with a puncture on the motorway.You have to call out and pay the french breakdown mechanic.He claimed the cost of this on his breakdown insurance.
From what I understand it's illegal to do it yourself on an Autoroute.


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## trevskoda (Oct 27, 2017)

wildebus said:


> No they wouldn't Trev.  Sometime wheels stick on when the mating surfaces kind of chemically "weld" together (not literally, but by way of explaining the effect) and sometimes they stick on due to mechanical issues.  The T5 issue was mechanical locking, not chemical.
> 
> 
> And you think a spray of WD40 would do what 30 minutes plus of very heavy work with a mallet failed to? they must make it strong stuff in Ireland



True of course if there stuck that bad,but some times it helps esp with alloy wheels,hence i grease the back.


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## wildebus (Oct 27, 2017)

trevskoda said:


> True of course if there stuck that bad,but some times it helps esp with alloy wheels,hence i grease the back.



A lot of people swear by Coppaslip and its clones but that can make things worse in fact on many occasions, especially when a wheel has got really hot.  I use a product called Ceratec, which is a non-metal lubricant, on the mating surfaces between wheel back and hub to (usually!) make sure the wheel does not stick on.
On the T5, I took the wheels off very soon after I first bought it and had the same problem back then - stuck hard - and I cleaned up all around the hubs with a dremal wheel to smooth it and it made it easier for a while but the problem obviously returned.

(I have had to deal with quite a few stuck wheels in the past as used to refurb wheels so I was removing and refitting wheels on a daily basis, but my own T5 ones were the worst I've had - and the Tyre place hadn't seen many worse either I think)


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## Deleted member 5816 (Oct 27, 2017)

As well as the vehicle Jack ( which on a T5 is an excellent Jack ) a 6 ton hydraulic Jack an assortment of wood blocks ( useful for aiding levelling ramps )
Also a 4 ton air bag.  We tend to wonder the North Yorkshire Moors and Scottish Highlands a lot of these places you get no mobile signal so you are on your own.
Whenever I have had the vehicle in the garage on returning home I always remove my wheels myself and retorque and do this on a regular basis to ensure they will come off when needed.
 On previous vehicles with alloys I have always made a brown paper gasket to fit between the hub and alloy wheel. I have yet to do this on the T5.

Alf


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## Deleted member 5816 (Oct 27, 2017)

Yeah it don't work well on 5. Stud wheel though.:sleep-040:

Alf



Chainsaw Charlie said:


> I always leave a few of the nuts off (fit one miss one )so it'll be easier to change next time :lol-049
> And never more than hand tight :scared:


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## runnach (Oct 27, 2017)

***** said:


> Having trucked through France for years my understanding is that you can do it yourself, but if you need a breakdown service, you must use the French system



No longer the case Graham, you are correct originally stretches of autoroutes franchised with exclusive rights and extortion ensued.

The AA challenged in the courts and won , indeed patrols in France AA liveried vans RHD with British patrolmen, I know this is true because they were billeted in our accommodation .

I was based in Frejus as were they, however their patch reached the Ardeche so one can only imagine response times.

Both the lads seemed knowledgeable, I don't think the AA were short of volunteers ! Some recoveries were still to a garage but they had a better angle on ensuring customers and themselves weren't fleeced

Channa


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## runnach (Oct 27, 2017)

***** said:


> Thanks Andrew, so can we take it, that if anybody has a problem anywhere on a French Autoroute, they can call by their own mobile phone?


 The call out system to my knowledge didn't change you ring the number and operatives summoned the lads were possible. From a customers perspective a chance an English speaking mechanic at the roadside. From the AA standpoint they broke the monopoly of the old system and their liability dropped in charges of recovery, it also helped the customers that spurious work was avoided. I wonder how the B word will affect things. 

channa


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## Canalsman (Oct 27, 2017)

martinmartin said:


> Just my opinion but I dont agree.





martinmartin said:


> Definitly a case of be prepared when it comes to punctures,yesterday I decided to take a worn tyre off,my three foot breaker bar was flexing a lot with no sign of any of the wheel bolts moving.Showing the breaker to the garage who was going to fit the tire they said if that cant undo them neither can they,I returned to have another go and broke the knuckle on the breaker bar.I then went to comercial vehicle garage who also had difficulty,after then clouting each bolt five times with heavy lump hammer and 1" type of dolly bar the bolts yielded to a breaker bar.I will now be carrying those extra tools just in case.The wheel was correctly torqued up about five years ago but time has had an effect on it I think.



So rather than follow manufacturer's service guidelines and remove the wheels annually it is better to break equipment and risk injury ...


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## Canalsman (Oct 27, 2017)

I learned recently that re-torquing wheel nuts can either be done after driving 30 miles or thereabouts, or after the vehicle has been standing for 30 minutes.

The second option is probably easier in my view.


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## trevskoda (Oct 27, 2017)

wildebus said:


> A lot of people swear by Coppaslip and its clones but that can make things worse in fact on many occasions, especially when a wheel has got really hot.  I use a product called Ceratec, which is a non-metal lubricant, on the mating surfaces between wheel back and hub to (usually!) make sure the wheel does not stick on.
> On the T5, I took the wheels off very soon after I first bought it and had the same problem back then - stuck hard - and I cleaned up all around the hubs with a dremal wheel to smooth it and it made it easier for a while but the problem obviously returned.
> 
> (I have had to deal with quite a few stuck wheels in the past as used to refurb wheels so I was removing and refitting wheels on a daily basis, but my own T5 ones were the worst I've had - and the Tyre place hadn't seen many worse either I think)



Coppaslip should not be used on alloy wheels its for the back of brake pads which do get very hot but would be ok on steel wheels,a water proof non fling grease 2 4 C marine prop grease will do ok and can be bought in a small tube.


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## trevskoda (Oct 27, 2017)

Alf said:


> As well as the vehicle Jack ( which on a T5 is an excellent Jack ) a 6 ton hydrate Jack an assortment of wood blocks ( useful for aiding levelling ramps )
> Also a 4 ton air bag.  We tend to wonder the North Yorkshire Moors and Scottish Highlands a lot of these places you get no mobile signal so you are on your own.
> Whenever I have had the vehicle in the garage on returning home I always remove my wheels myself and retorque and do this on a regular basis to ensure they will come off when needed.
> On previous vehicles with alloys I have always made a brown paper gasket to fit between the hub and alloy wheel. I have yet to do this on the T5.
> ...



May get soggy unless grease prof paper leaving a slack wheel 2 4 C marine grease alf


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## trevskoda (Oct 27, 2017)

Alf said:


> Yeah it don't work well on 5. Stud wheel though.:sleep-040:
> 
> Alf



Gees im lost on this one alf,can you slow down a bit to allow my brain to catch up.:rolleyes2::lol-053:


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## trevskoda (Oct 27, 2017)

POI Admin said:


> So rather than follow manufacturer's service guidelines and remove the wheels annually it is better to break equipment and risk injury ...



Yep he could have bust his nuts.:scared:


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## trevskoda (Oct 27, 2017)

I have  floresant wheel nut markers like the big trucks use so a walk round to do viz check,very handy.


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## oldish hippy (Oct 28, 2017)

well some idiot did change the wheel on my van befoer i got it and jacked it up in wron place hence got a crease in it now the repair kit is mobile phone to rinng aa


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## n brown (Oct 28, 2017)




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## martinmartin (Oct 28, 2017)

POI Admin said:


> So rather than follow manufacturer's service guidelines and remove the wheels annually it is better to break equipment and risk injury ...



Ok point taken and I apologize for my blunt comment yesterday.


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## trevskoda (Oct 28, 2017)

martinmartin said:


> Ok point taken and I apologize for my blunt comment yesterday.



Always better to send a blunt letter written with a sharp pencil.:lol-053:


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## runnach (Oct 28, 2017)

I made a comment earlier " blind leading the blind" which was perhaps unfair but not aimed at a specific poster. Let me explain what I mean.

Trevskoda amply explains why wheels should be removed, Certainly in my earlier motor trade days if I had let a car leave the workshop allegedly having been serviced and no wheels removed I would have been sacked.

Additional reasons for removing a wheel mean that pads and discs can be properly inspected, but also give good opportunity to inspect inside tyre tread for feathering (tracking) the inside walls for cuts bumps and rim damage.

One thing that will never change £50 of car or £100000 the only contact with the road is the tyres so makes sense to inspect properly and the wheels they are attached too. To do this correctly they require removal, So what has gone wrong ?

There has been leaps and bounds in quality of materials granted but the reason is far more sinister in my book.

Manufacturers compete with each other and recent years have seen reductions in service times (by not for example removing wheels) they have extended service intervals eg a transit my early days 3000 miles oil changes today ? service intervals of 20000 miles not uncommon have oils come that far ? I don't think they have it was to appease buyers the overall ownership costs and I am suggesting good engineering practice has become compromised.

Head gasket blows , good practice to skim the head, You try and get a warranty company ( manufacturer backed to stand the cost ) again good practice flys out the window.

People don't see this hence because Mr Mercedes Fiat or Citroen says it , it must be true. If you believe that then blind and leading the blind by advocating as such. 

Have Volkswagen not recently be found fudging the books, Other mechanics here, how may re occurring issues have you seen , and a manufacturer blatantly denying a problem ..Any one remember the reverse gear issues on Seval product ?

As for changing a wheel at the side of the road, on a commercial vehicle no easy task, my luck car commercial or Bike it would be hard shoulder, chucking it down with rain on the M62 Friday night.

Channa


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## Deleted member 52918 (Oct 28, 2017)

So far, I've been lucky, I've only had to change a couple of flat tyres on the side of the road.

I've also been unlucky enough to have a few punctures recently at night, that have been very fast deflations, in the middle of a set of long S bends on a country road with a 60mph limit, no where safe to pull off so drove to a safer place & wrecked the tyre in the process.

Last two were caused by a scalpings (bottoming stones you spread before concreting) going through a tyre causing a 1" long gash & almost instant deflation!  But I'd rather wreck a tyre than kill someone!

Phill


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## Canalsman (Oct 28, 2017)

My 'van has a full service annually by a highly competent 'old school' mechanic in the village.

Typically I cover around 6,000 miles in a year and doubtless the fully synthetic oil is capable of much greater distance before changing especially since I don't do short runs in the vehicle.

So this is overkill, but the complete check of the mechanical components, greasing the Alko axle, removal of wheels (ahem!) etc and planned future maintenance such as brake pad renewal gives peace of mind and reduces the chance of a roadside problem.

I have a TyrePal pressure monitoring system so the pressures are monitored constantly, and I have just replaced the front tyres somewhat before they reach the legal limit.

The expense of doing all this isn't huge and is phased. The 'van is worth a fair bit of money and my philosophy with vehicles over well over 40 years of motoring hasn't changed. Look after your vehicle and it will look after you.

Only thrice have I had a roadside breakdown and all were electrical faults that resulted in the engine cutting out.

Fingers now firmly crossed - I must be due another one!


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## witzend (Oct 29, 2017)

POI Admin said:


> So rather than follow manufacturer's service guidelines and remove the wheels annually it is better to break equipment and risk injury ...



But what is their guide when I bought a Peugeot van a few years ago they told me first service due at 32.000 mls so in 4 years for me


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## Canalsman (Oct 29, 2017)

channa said:


> Trevskoda amply explains why wheels should be removed, Certainly in my earlier motor trade days if I had let a car leave the workshop allegedly having been serviced and no wheels removed I would have been sacked.
> 
> Additional reasons for removing a wheel mean that pads and discs can be properly inspected, but also give good opportunity to inspect inside tyre tread for feathering (tracking) the inside walls for cuts bumps and rim damage.
> 
> ...



As Channa has outlined the manufacturers have, to an extent, got themselves into a 'my service interval is longer than yours' situation.

This may save money up-front but isn't necessarily best practice. 

Four years or 32,000 miles is, in my view, too long an interval for some basic checks that should definitely include removing the wheels ...

There's no harm in servicing a vehicle more often than the manufacturer advises. In my view you just need to balance the cost against benefits such as increased engine life and less likelihood of breakdown. 

Part of the decision of course hinges on how long you plan to keep the vehicle. Your van is probably presumed to have a fairly short lifespan if used as a commercial vehicle. Motorhomes based on the same chassis are likely to have a very much longer life.


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## RichardHelen262 (Oct 29, 2017)

Mercedes have 32k service intervals or every 12 months


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## Wooie1958 (Oct 29, 2017)

Chainsaw Charlie said:


> Anyone seriously thinking that a service is only required every 4 years is only deluding themselves, many will be on an ALKO chassis which requires annual service that many dealers won't do unless specifically asked to .




My motohome dealer just laughed when i asked if greasing the ALKO chassis was included in the service       :lol-049:

He told me to " wake up and get real " and said greasing vehicles went out in the stone age because they haven`t had grease nipples for donkey`s years    :rolleyes2:


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## mark61 (Oct 29, 2017)

Current Sprinters are 37500 miles or 2 years. In practice it's only the high mileage 400+ miles a day ones that get close to the 37500 interval. City multi drop vans won't get anywhere near that before service warning light comes on.


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## Mastodon (Oct 29, 2017)

1 ton hydraulic jack from Screwfix. Mahoosive extention bar for the nuts. Yes, I have AA but that’s no use if you don’t have a signal.


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## runnach (Oct 29, 2017)

I have been out the trade a few years but generally manufacturers stipulate x mileage / 12 months / 24 months etc which ever occurs first.

Some of the old school lads are stuck in their ways of dropping oil every two minutes and sometimes a bit overboard, but doing less harm than neglecting service schedules.

Channa


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## 1 Cup (Oct 29, 2017)

*£10.00*

7/8 scocket and this £10.00 @ proper job bridgwater.

Should do the job of getting nuts / wheel off


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## 1 Cup (Oct 29, 2017)

*I got it up*

Well it won't fall off.


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## witzend (Oct 29, 2017)

Wooie1958 said:


> My motohome dealer just laughed when i asked if greasing the ALKO chassis was included in the service   :




Axles >> AL-KO   Our horse box has the same axle's and it's got grease nipples perhaps your dealers missing something
Axles >> AL-KO


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## trevskoda (Oct 30, 2017)

1 Cup said:


> 7/8 scocket and this £10.00 @ proper job bridgwater.
> View attachment 59218View attachment 59219
> Should do the job of getting nuts / wheel off



What is a scocket.:lol-053: got it its a scotch socket.:wave:


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## trevskoda (Oct 30, 2017)

Chainsaw Charlie said:


> I did mine myself
> As most new motorhome owners won't keep their van for long I don't suppose many have a clue or even care , looking at the market most motorhomes seem to have had 2 owners by the time they are 5 years old.



And they say there is no money about ?:blah:


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## harrow (Oct 30, 2017)

trevskoda said:


> And they say there is no money about ?:blah:


 There is money to bribe the DUP, they had no trouble finding that cash :ninja:


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## maingate (Oct 30, 2017)

Chainsaw Charlie said:


> I did mine myself
> As most new motorhome owners won't keep their van for long I don't suppose many have a clue or even care , looking at the market most motorhomes seem to have had 2 owners by the time they are 5 years old.



I have a grease gun for that purpose but I gave it to the mechanic who did my servicing and repairs as it's easier for him to lift the motorhome than for me.

I changed vans but the latest one has the same Alko chassis (or so I thought), checked underneath and this one has no grease nipples. :sad:

Anybody want to buy a grease gun?


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