not charging starter battery and idle too fast

95% of so called repair garages have not one clue how things work, also I find it much better to have sep units rather than sargent or others trying to be good at all things, mine is all single units for each job, so if one goes down I am still able to fly home on one engine LOL.
electrics .jpg
 
Thanks Yeo, 14.7 on that voltmeter last time I looked so maybe it is the split charger. Was it that all along or could both have been faulty. Of course they could. Vehicle lights seemed to be fine, I am thinking of changing them for LEDs as they are nowhere near as bright as those on the car, which is much newer. Where would the split charger be likely to be as maybe I could check and, if need be, change that myself. There is no B2B charger that I am aware of. Harry
 
95% of so called repair garages have not one clue how things work, also I find it much better to have sep units rather than sargent or others trying to be good at all things, mine is all single units for each job, so if one goes down I am still able to fly home on one engine LOL.
Basically so is mine ever since that major short out. the original control panel is not used.
 
Thanks Yeo, 14.7 on that voltmeter last time I looked so maybe it is the split charger. Was it that all along or could both have been faulty. Of course they could. Vehicle lights seemed to be fine, I am thinking of changing them for LEDs as they are nowhere near as bright as those on the car, which is much newer. Where would the split charger be likely to be as maybe I could check and, if need be, change that myself. There is no B2B charger that I am aware of. Harry
Beware of changing your headlights to LEDs if that's what you were meaning ...
As swapping standard incandescent Lamps (bulbs grow in the ground)for LED units should mean a MOT fail on most more modern vehicles .

As far as charging leisure batteries are concerned ...
Sounds like it's time to break out the multi meter
 
Beware of changing your headlights to LEDs if that's what you were meaning ...
As swapping standard incandescent Lamps (bulbs grow in the ground)for LED units should mean a MOT fail on most more modern vehicles .

As far as charging leisure batteries are concerned ...
Sounds like it's time to break out the multi meter
Yes but where is that pesky split charge relay. I don't even know what one looks like!
 
I am pretty sure I now know where it is but there are several similar in that box and I don't know which one nor how to find out which one ( I am told it is in the fuse box in the engine compartment and I know where that is but those that think that don't know which one). Any ideas? I have been googling and that has elicited the foregoing. I even have a picture of the box but no labels on the relays only the fuses. Harry. I am going to look in that box now, don woollies etc.
 
Opened the box and one of the relays is rather bigger than the rest though on the diagram they are all the same and it has the inscription 12v 50 A on it so I presume that is it. There is no evidence of overheating on it. Now I have meter at the ready, so how do I find out if it is OK?
 
Opened the box and one of the relays is rather bigger than the rest though on the diagram they are all the same and it has the inscription 12v 50 A on it so I presume that is it. There is no evidence of overheating on it. Now I have meter at the ready, so how do I find out if it is OK?
Use a 200ah relay and battery cable to link up, you can also use a switch to start van of all batts in an emergency, or manual link, thats how mine is done
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200ah relay.png
 
My memory is not good enough for that Trev but it seems there are several about in the 50A range which is what the original is. So I shall try for one of those thanks but I would like to test the original to exclude any other possibilities before I make another move. Got to to take Mrs H for x-ray on knee now (not a driver) but I will be back onto this later.
 
The split charge relay should be fused at both the starter battery and leisure battery bank ends. My original had piggy back fuse blocks each end each containing a 50A and 2A fuse. Check/replace those fuses first as they seem to go more often than the relay do
 
The split charge relay should be fused at both the starter battery and leisure battery bank ends. My original had piggy back fuse blocks each end each containing a 50A and 2A fuse. Check/replace those fuses first as they seem to go more often than the relay do
Good idea Nabism I have looked at the fuse list but none of them seem to be probable's for that but I will check them when the rain lets up. In fact just about every heavy fuse is about to be checked. In my experience; relays tend to look a little dodgy when they burn out or whatever. This one looks and sounds (when shaken) pristine (on the table beside me) so I am hopeful you are right about the fuse.
 
The split charge relay should be fused at both the starter battery and leisure battery bank ends. My original had piggy back fuse blocks each end each containing a 50A and 2A fuse. Check/replace those fuses first as they seem to go more often than the relay do
Good idea Nabism I have looked at the fuse list but none of them seem to be probable's for that but I will check them when the rain lets up. In fact just about every heavy fuse is about to be checked. In my experience; relays tend to look a little dodgy when they burn out or whatever. This one looks and sounds (when shaken) pristine (on the table beside me) so I am hopeful you are right about the fuse.
Easy thing to bench test, many look ok but the coils inside burn or the points face, this is due to being undersized, a load of and up to 200amps can pass through in cranking use, hence I said use a big unit and battery cables, not the we flimsy units and thin wires.
 
Thanks Trev , I have put old battery in garage on charge as too wet to work on wagon outside and we shall see. Is that purely a continuity test? Must be mustn't it?
 
Using trev's pic above across 85 - 86 coil resistance maybe 50 ohms .
Then to check relay contacts across 30 -87 should read short (0 ohms) and then open circuit (infinity ohms) when applying and then removing 12vdc on 85 - 86 .
If your relay isn't numbered as above then the 2 large pins will be = 30 and 87 and control/coil the 2 small ones = 85 and 86.
BUT - Most likely be a fuse that has failed.
 
It clicks like a good'n. My skill with multi meter limited but we have continuity and then no continuity so I think the relay is working so it is a case of find the fuse. I will look at them all before I give up but too dark and wet now so lets hope for a drier morning. Thanks again lads, lovely to have such people about.
 

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