Our cheap battery!

Im
wildebus said:
As I already said ...
Don't agree? No problem. Your choice.

I will (or rather I will give you an example of an explaination via a link) why they are different ...


The terms “Power Supply” and “Battery Charger” are often used interchangeably, but they perform distinct functions.
A power supply is designed to supply a constant voltage to a load. As the load requirements change, it continues to supply a fixed DC level.

A true battery charger generally supplies a regulated current, first to charge the battery, and then switches to a regulated voltage mode. This is specifically required for Li-Ion chemistry where overcharging is not only damaging to the battery cells, but can also pose a possible fire hazard. A smart battery charger will not only never overcharge cells, but can also monitor battery temperature, switching off a fast charge when certain parameters are exceeded.

A power supply used as a charger cannot do this, and will continue to pump energy into a battery regardless of its condition; fully charged, battery fault, or shorted cells.
In order to achieve maximum battery service life, a properly designed charger should always be used to charge cells.

Does an Alternator best match the description of an Battery Charger or an Power Supply as described above?
Which one would be better for your battery?

Answers on a Postcard to wherever you want (not me, as I already know the answer to this particular one)
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Obviously written by someone trying to sell a smart battery charger.
Fact is alternators are fitted with regulators. They chuck out a higher current to a flat battery and drop to nothing on what they think is a fully charged one. If they didn't reduce charge the overcharging would boil the acid away.....which just does not happen on vehicle batteries.

Sometimes it's better to stop digging....rather than to continue to try to justify a badly worded post, and personal opinions/beliefs presented as facts.
 
SquirrellCook said:
I guess it was your turn for pork exposure.
The trouble is , if something works it much be right?
Working well and efficient, is another story.
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I agree.

My own system is working very well and suits our needs down to the ground. I could probably improve it with lithium batteries and bigger solar panels but don't see the need. But I don't mind being told of the possibilities.
 
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Just seen this for those who like watching batteries, works to mobile.
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In my limited experience, if you haven't studied the behaviour of a battery used for your motorhome use. Just buy the cheapest! Your probably going to kill it anyways.
Starter batteries are a whole subject on there own. I've known people who drive a mile once a week and get 10 years out of a battery. Others seem to kill them at an alarming rate. Putting your car or motorhome on to a smart charger once a month can't do any harm. Even if your smart charger is fake. I suspect many are.
A good adjustable smart charger is best and a knowledge of what the battery wants. What will you gain from this expense, not much I expect.
When using a split charge system both batteries will never get fully charged. The engine start battery will probably tolerate it, but as there is a voltage drop to the second battery the plates will swell with sulphate deposits. Adding more batteries will only make it worse.
Lead acid batteries like a good hard charge when discharged with a long absorption stage. I doubt if you will drive long enough to finish the absorption stage with any kind of battery to battery charging system.
If you have solar, you have the chance to finish of the absorption stage. That's assuming your demands don't exceed your capacity either in solar or batteries.
Now this is where I think the money is worth spending. A real MPPT solar charger with adjustable voltage settings. Remember this is for one battery or a matched set. The solar charger might be smart, but it doesn't know how silly you've been!

So if this reads ok and makes sense, you can see why it would be best to learn how to look after cheap batteries.
Another thing to remember if your using a stupid size inverter with welding cables connected to it, you'll want a full traction or starter battery for it. The high current demands will bend the plates on a traditional leisure battery.

I've just touched on the subject, there much smarter people here with more first hand experience. Please don't annoy them, they are only trying to make you experience better.
 
When considering new batteries it is very important to take I to account what you are going to use them for and how you will recharge them.
It's very likely that your existing motorhome charging system will be set up (but not optimised) for standard lead acid batteries.
AGM batteries require a much higher voltage for the main charge phase and apparently only a few of the continental converters installed AGM chargers.
Solar controllers are better in this respect as most are built to match lead acid, AGM and lithium batteries.
AGM batteries are very sensitive to temperature (because the electrolyte is 'trapped' and can't circulate to dissipate heat) for this reason major car manufacturers are moving away from them after premature failures in hot climes. I've seen charts showing very short life for vehicles run in desert conditions. Sat in southern Spain in the summer with no cooling could be close to that.
Therefore if you use your batteries to deliver large currents for sustained periods such as cooking via an inverter you can seriously eat into the cycle life available.
I remain of the view that there's a lot to be said for wet/flooded batteries for most of us.
 
Geeky Philip said:
I have just read all the real reviews for these batteries on eBay. I would recommend that you DO NOT buy these batteries as they are reported to be poor quality and they appear not to honour the guarantee.
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Looks like these batteries have problems with quality consistency, reading the reviews some have lasted four years and some will not charge after only a few hour of use. I suppose you takes your chances.
 
mfw said:
Dont think batteries on a motorhome last long anyway purely to the amount of time the vehicles sit around idle and batteries do like to be worked - and point i'm making is the battery is barely getting used so will deteriorate faster than a getting used all the time
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Yes, constant use is the key to battery longevity. I've had a Yuasa 110 ah leisure battery in my T4 for eight years but its my everyday vehicle.
 
wildebus said:
OK. I will give you an real life example involving the popular Banner Bull Batteries vs the Batteries I just got in yesterday to put in my Motorhome - so putting my money where my mouth is ...
Key Features of the two batteries

Banner Bull 100Ah Battery
£120
100Ah @C20 Discharge Rate
24.5Kg
2 Year Warranty
Requires periodic maintanance (topping up of water)
Requires external venting
200 Cycles when taken down to 50% Discharge (so it is expected that you can take out 50Ah 200 times before the performance is notably reduced and likely needs replacing.


12V 100AH RITAR AGM LEAD CARBON ULTRA DEEP CYCLE BATTERY
£190
100Ah @C20 Discharge Rate
29Kg
5 Year Warranty
Maintenance Free
No venting required
3000 Cycles when taken down to 50% Discharge (so it is expected that you can take out 50Ah 3,000 times before the performance is notably reduced and likely needs replacing)

So why buy the more expensive battery?
Well, the warranty is twice as long. It requires no maintenance (so pretty well fit & forget) and you can take out 50Ah every day the year for over 8 years. Do that with the Banner Bull battery and you will run out of cycles within 7 months. And the more expensive battery will also not complain too much if you want to take 80Ah or even 90Ah out of the 100Ah battery and still give you nearly 10 times the cycle count the Banner Bull will taking just 50Ah out.

To me, paying an extra £70 for those benefits is a no-brainer.
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Good to see mention of charge cycles Warranty in terms of years is almost meaningless. The number of charge cycles a manufacturer claims is the best indication of battery quality. A poor quality battery may last a lot of cycles but a good quality battery is more likely to survive trouble free. However, accidentally flattening any lead-acid battery will seriously shorten its life.
 
I am intrigued by this thread and wonder how people have battery problems?

My paired Numax batteries always last 6 years before showing signs of loss of efficiency.

My last van was 11 years old when I sold it with the original engine battery working fine. My current van is 14 years old and the battery seems to be original (if not, I have had it for nearly 7 years anyway). I have never had to buy an engine battery for around 30+ years.

Maybe an engineering background, an understanding of how things work and awareness of routine checks and maintenance has saved me a lot of work and expense. :)
 
maingate said:
I am intrigued by this thread and wonder how people have battery problems?

My paired Numax batteries always last 6 years before showing signs of loss of efficiency.

My last van was 11 years old when I sold it with the original engine battery working fine. My current van is 14 years old and the battery seems to be original (if not, I have had it for nearly 7 years anyway). I have never had to buy an engine battery for around 30+ years.

Maybe an engineering background, an understanding of how things work and awareness of routine checks and maintenance has saved me a lot of work and expense. :)
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Good to hear from you Jim.
 
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