Battery problem

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you almost certainly goosed the element in the boiler, disconnect that and start checking everything again with a multimeter. Spare elements are available from leisureshop direct.Mine cost £80.00 five years ago.
Boiler was fine Scampi. Done all the checks etc. I was very lucky.
only problem I have now is system monitor not giving a reading on engine battery. I’ve looked near battery and can’t find anything loose. All fuses are in tact except white 25amp which I’ve ordered. So, if these don’t have an effect on the monitor I think a new battery. Unless anyone can suggest otherwise. Especially the wires to engine battery that I’m missing something somewhere.
 
Even if the new fuse doesn't do the trick providing the starter battery works it doesn't matter what the monitor says.
Thanks Mark for your reply. What I’m proposing to do once fuses arrive is turning off the solar feed for the time being, not starting the engine up for a few days then give it another test on my multimeter and then take the reading off it. Not sure if this is the correct way, my thought on this would tell me if it’s holding it’s charge. As you said it doesn’t matter about monitor showing 0 as long as the battery is holding. At a later date I could get this seen too. Just don’t want to be stuck anywhere with a dead battery once we are allowed out on the road. Does this workaround sound feasible in your opinion? Regards
 
I'm not an expert but most things 'computerised' often respond to a reboot 😀
Let's hope that works.
 
Looking back at posts I suspect that jump start attempt may have put heavy load through fuses on battery rather than direct to terminal and blown them.
 
I'm not an expert but most things 'computerised' often respond to a reboot 😀
Let's hope that works.
Hello again. So in order to reboot would that mean a garage could do this?
 
Looking back at posts I suspect that jump start attempt may have put heavy load through fuses on battery rather than direct to terminal and blown them.
You’ve filled me with confidence a wee bit Mark. I will let you know once they are received
 
By reboot I mean just disconnecting everything and starting again.
Which in effect you have done on the leisure side by replacing the batteries.
If you take the connector off the positive terminal to replace the fuses then you'll be doing the same there.
I'm quietly confident that it'll all be sorted with the new fuses.
 
By reboot I mean just disconnecting everything and starting again.
Which in effect you have done on the leisure side by replacing the batteries.
If you take the connector off the positive terminal to replace the fuses then you'll be doing the same there.
I'm quietly confident that it'll all be sorted with the new fuses.
Just to add again Mark. I put a meter across the battery with solar connected and got a reading of 12.74 volts. On removing the fuse for the solar I got a reading of 12.54 volts. I have now left the solar fuse out to monitor the engine battery for voltage drop, if any, over the next couple of days. As you can tell I’m trying everything So much so - once these 25amp fuses arrive I’m going to renew every other one in the compartment. Then I will check monitor, if no joy I’ll remove the positive terminal and reboot as described. Phew! I will get there soon
 
Most batteries don't like staying flat.Lead Acid sulphate up, and more modern types the dielectic starts to decay. On most vans the leisure battery will charge if you plug the van into the mains. But you will need a charger for the engine battery. I usually charge mine once a month and then start the van a few times and move it a few feet to stop getting flats on the tyres.
 
Most batteries don't like staying flat.Lead Acid sulphate up, and more modern types the dielectic starts to decay. On most vans the leisure battery will charge if you plug the van into the mains. But you will need a charger for the engine battery. I usually charge mine once a month and then start the van a few times and move it a few feet to stop getting flats on the tyres.
Thank you Colin. Another tip for me to take on board. Regards and thank you to you lovely people with tips and knowledge
 
If you have a modern vehicle that's run by a computer (or several) it is often possible to reset the computer by a complex sequence of button pressing. Normally you'd do this to clear However the data stored about how the owner likes to drive. On my car, doing this didn't sort a problem. I disconnected the battery. I disconnected the other battery (the hidden one, seemingly used by the antilock brakes and other stability wizardry).
I waited ten minutes and reconnected the batteries.
This sorted out the display problem in the dash, but it also improved how the engine performed, which was a surprise.
 
Most batteries don't like staying flat.Lead Acid sulphate up, and more modern types the dielectic starts to decay. On most vans the leisure battery will charge if you plug the van into the mains. But you will need a charger for the engine battery. I usually charge mine once a month and then start the van a few times and move it a few feet to stop getting flats on the tyres.
Or one of these could be handy.
charge splitter.jpg
 
Or one of these could be handy.View attachment 80517
Morning Trevskoda. I’ve looked at your post and purchase of one. Now then,I like what you’ve sent but I’m rather perplexed by it although, I see how handy this can be. Would you have a photo of your connection and place of situ in engine compartment. I seem to take in this method rather than the reading aspect which comes later. Bearing in mind to get to the back of my battery (picture in my post) is a minefield with all the wire coverage over the top of it. Once I know if the battery is not working to it’s full capacity and needs replacing. I am going to have these wires re routed by the professionals, away somehow off the battery to make it easier for access Thank you.
 
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Simple,this little unit is a float charge to 13.7 v ,if you want it to charge starter battery from les ones then connect pos in to a les battery and ground to body,then any of the two pos outlets to the starter battery.
This will then keep the starter battery on a float without switches and relays.
Some wire and connections will be required,crimp tools and connectors are on ebay ,good luck.
 
Well Trev. I’m going to have someone do this for me. It’s all the wires I’ve mentioned that HAVE to sorted before more are added. I do like it though and thank you
 
Well Trev. I’m going to have someone do this for me. It’s all the wires I’ve mentioned that HAVE to sorted before more are added. I do like it though and thank you
No problem,you could have also used a relay and switch to do the same,im out now to rewire the whole van as it had 3 fuse boxes hidden in daft places,now just one with warning led lights and where i can get at it easy,electrical work takes time and lots of brain power,can be tiring at times but i love a challange.
 
Sam
No problem,you could have also used a relay and switch to do the same,im out now to rewire the whole van as it had 3 fuse boxes hidden in daft places,now just one with warning led lights and where i can get at it easy,electrical work takes time and lots of brain power,can be tiring at times but i love a challange.
Same here, with a any kind of challenge .I’ve been tested many times with what I call a “a mans world” with mechanics. Having long nails (my only asset) being a semi retired manicurist, has sometimes made me seek assistance from a male counterpart in their manly feel good supremacy. Rubbish, just didn’t want to snap one lol!
Funny part of a MANICURIST is once the word has been broken up MAN - macho, he thinks. CURE - man thinks he can fix with superiority and finally RIST....shall I go on or leave that to the imagination. Only part us ladies refer to this ends in ER, if you get my drift!!! Stupid word I think as an occupation for a female. My smile for the day. Admin, hope this comment is acceptable.
 
This device is just a pair of diodes in a box. Pretty good diodes that can carry 10 amps (or more with a heatsink added), but diodes none the less. I forget how much voltage they drop. I may remember to measure it later.
It's clever in that it won't let electricity flow from one battery to the other, but if you put a voltage on the input, the battery with the lowest voltage will get the charge.
Unfortunately, that may not be what you want. If one battery is fully charged, its voltage will be perhaps 13v. The other battery is only half charged and the charger would be bringing it up to 14.5v in the bulk charge phase.
This device will push power into the wrong battery in this situation.
But a bigger problem is that if you connect an mppt solar controller to its input, the controller won't work: they require a power feed from the battery to start up, and this device stops them getting any power at all.
This device has its uses, but if you are keeping the batteries maintained in a long period of layup, a wire with a fuse or a 21w bulb in line is a better approach.
 
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