Battery problem

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I'm a postman and were as busy as Christmas and royal mail network can't cope as no extra staff to cope with extra work load were about 2 days behind I've spoken to other couriers whilst out on my delivery and their the same so I expect your batteries will be delayed by a few days
 
Totally agree with you ricc. I’m on the phone first thing in morning to see exactly when I will get them :devilish::devilish:
 
I'm a postman and were as busy as Christmas and royal mail network can't cope as no extra staff to cope with extra work load were about 2 days behind I've spoken to other couriers whilst out on my delivery and their the same so I expect your batteries will be delayed by a few days
Royal Mail could take extras on if they wanted. Probably more people available now than at Xmas.
 
Royal Mail could take extras on if they wanted. Probably more people available now than at Xmas.
Royal mail haven't taken on extra staff as they say they can't afford to as they are paying sick pay to all the staff who are ill or told to self isolate
 
Royal mail haven't taken on extra staff as they say they can't afford to as they are paying sick pay to all the staff who are ill or told to self isolate
So all the extra stuff is being sent for free? I doubt it.
I suspect that it is more like valuing profits over service or staff.
 
So all the extra stuff is being sent for free? I doubt it.
I suspect that it is more like valuing profits over service or staff.
That's what we think it's a joke in our office never been so busy but can't book overtime haven't delivered my full delivery for weeks I just bring it back when I run out of time some one is making money and it certainly isn't the staff
 
Good morning to my fellow campers.
update as follows:-
Connected new batteries and I’m up and running. Thankfully no damage to the boiler or inverter. System monitor is showing all correct voltage. Went through the process of EHU, GAS & 12V.....yippee!! couldn’t be more relieved I’ve got extra pennies for shoes ha ha.
Only downside I’m encountering is - the engine battery. It is showing on my multi meter ( I’m now a professional of use) tested daily on it 11.5v. But on my system monitor it saying 0. Could it be I’ve knocked a connection to the monitor whilst trying to attach jump leads or indicating a new battery replacement?
Again, I’ve appreciated you all. Thank you wholeheartedly for all your attention.
 
0v on the engine battery sounds like you knocked a wire off, but 11.5v is not good anyway.
Assuming that you are measuring the voltage when the battery has had no load and no charging for at least a couple of hours, 11.5v indicates that it is discharged enough to need charging immediately, or it will be damaged.
If there has been load on the battery, or if it had been charged in the last couple of hours, the voltage at the battery terminals is not an accurate way to assess its state of charge.
 
As I thought in h. Today solar has been over the 11.5 to how it is supposed to be. The technical side of it wavers me to getting a new battery. i agree with you that I may have knoocked something off when I was trying to jump it. The one thing I discovered on making sure fuses in engine compartment were all in tact. There were two 25amp looks as if they’re melted.???- I’m going to replace those tomorrow just in case they’re important. I have no details on what goes where in fuse compartment, all other fuses are fine. Could you advise what would these 25amp be used for? Thank you for your patience.
 
No, sorry, I don't know. But if two 25A fuses have melted, that suggests they were somehow involved in trying to charge your faulty batteries, so were running flat out for some time. A bad connection in the fuse holder makes them heat up, which loosens the connection, making it hotter still. Replace the fuses and see how it goes. But get that 11.5v battery charged one way or another!
 
No, sorry, I don't know. But if two 25A fuses have melted, that suggests they were somehow involved in trying to charge your faulty batteries, so were running flat out for some time. A bad connection in the fuse holder makes them heat up, which loosens the connection, making it hotter still. Replace the fuses and see how it goes. But get that 11.5v battery charged one way or another!
As he says (y)

Different types of fuses and holders can cope with different loads. It may sound odd, but all fuses are not the same even if they are rated at the same amperage.
a Blade fuse will tend to overheat a lot sooner than a Midi-type fuse as the contact area on Midi fuse holders are much more solid (Blade fuses holders can be very prone to loose connections and not grip the blades firmly).
Most ANL Fuse holders seem to melt down when the same current in a Mega Fuse gives no issues.

Horses for courses.

..... There were two 25amp looks as if they’re melted.???- I’m going to replace those tomorrow just in case they’re important. I have no details on what goes where in fuse compartment, all other fuses are fine.....
What type of fuses were they?
 
... a Blade fuse will tend to overheat a lot sooner than a Midi-type fuse as the contact area on Midi fuse holders are much more solid (Blade fuses holders can be very prone to loose connections and not grip the blades firmly).
Most ANL Fuse holders seem to melt down when the same current in a Mega Fuse gives no issues.
Thats true, but on two occasions I've had midi fuses break apart, rather then melt or blow. One was subject to a bit of vibration, but the other wasn't. Maybe I was just unlucky.
I tend to use the strip fuses instead: the sort used in fuel injectors. They fit in midi fuse holders, don't seem as easy to break, have the added advantage of being very cheap.
You'd not want to use them near anything flammable.
 
Thats true, but on two occasions I've had midi fuses break apart, rather then melt or blow. One was subject to a bit of vibration, but the other wasn't. Maybe I was just unlucky.
I tend to use the strip fuses instead: the sort used in fuel injectors. They fit in midi fuse holders, don't seem as easy to break, have the added advantage of being very cheap.
You'd not want to use them near anything flammable.
Interesting point. I have had that occasionally with Midi Fuses as well. For the Midi-Fuse holders, there are the Midi Fuse, the Mini-ANL Fuse and the metal Strip Fuse.
They all have the same physical bolt-down connection which is reliable. My preferred one I think is the Mini-ANL as the centre is translucent so you can see if the fuse is blown, whereas the Midi centres are solid and you have to use a meter to check.
I use the strip fuses as well, but the lower amperage ones are very thin and can easily distort and stretch (reducing the amperage at the very least) if care is not take when tightening down the nuts, so I have tended to supply the Mini-ANL versions with most of my kits to avoid that issue.
 
Hi mistericeman. That sounds great. Just to let you know my starter battery has been on charge and I have just fired the motor up and wallah (not sure how you spell that) it has turned over. I will check it again in morning to eliminate that one from the other 3. Battery 1 on charge as we speak. Battery 2 was also put on charge for about 15 mins then the horrid smell came back again - binning that one. lastly no 3 on charge, no smell at present. I sincerely hope I can retain 2 of 3.
I will update everyone after new one ordered. Then place everything in situ. Thereafter, check boiler and fingers crossed. Many thanks.
I rather suspect that putting a brand new battery in with the remaining two won't be a great success.
You won't get the capacity you expect and charging won't be efficient.
You may want to consider biting the bullet and make a clean start with 3 identical batteries.
 
As I observed previously ...

Replacing one out of three leisure batteries is not ideal.

The remaining two older batteries will have different electrical characteristics to the new one. The outcome may be that the bank of batteries does not charge to its full potential.

There is also a possibility the other two batteries have been damaged by the failure of the third.

I would suggest there are two options.

If the remaining two batteries have sufficient capacity to meet your needs then just use those until they need replacing. Take care to insulate and make safe the connections to the failed battery.

If you require the capacity that three batteries provide I recommend that you buy three new batteries.

Don't forget that Alpha Batteries provide a discount to members.
 
As he says (y)

Different types of fuses and holders can cope with different loads. It may sound odd, but all fuses are not the same even if they are rated at the same amperage.
a Blade fuse will tend to overheat a lot sooner than a Midi-type fuse as the contact area on Midi fuse holders are much more solid (Blade fuses holders can be very prone to loose connections and not grip the blades firmly).
Most ANL Fuse holders seem to melt down when the same current in a Mega Fuse gives no issues.

Horses for courses.


What type of fuses were they?
Hello, it’s a blade fuse in white holder
 
I use the strip fuses as well, but the lower amperage ones are very thin and can easily distort and stretch (reducing the amperage at the very least) if care is not take when tightening down the nuts, so I have tended to supply the Mini-ANL versions with most of my kits to avoid that issue.
Midi holders are half the price, though. If you put the strip fuse under the cable lugs, instead of on top, they're less likely to twist and stretch.
 
2003 Peugeot Boxer Elddis Autostratus

My starting battery is dead and wondered if anyone on the forum would know where the remote jump start terminals are located.

The problem I have is .....I can’t get access to put the lead onto one of the terminals (back one as in picture)) without disconnecting a lot of electrical wires that are covering the battery. Have you got the same van as me? What happened was I hooked up to electric not knowing I had left the boiler switch on without water in the boiler. Next day the van alarm was set off with an awful smell - I believe I’ve burnt all the leisure batteries out - not sure if damaged boiler. I have no experience with electrics and wary of making more of a problem than I already have
Back to the engine battery - I have no power which is why I’m trying to get it started.


1586668768265.jpeg
you almost certainly goosed the element in the boiler, disconnect that and start checking everything again with a multimeter. Spare elements are available from leisureshop direct.Mine cost £80.00 five years ago.
 

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