Solar panel installation

wildebus said:
if you can secure a rail either end, and stick it down securely along the whole length, then it will be pretty well fixed. if you could find a way to secure centrally a well that would be best. I would think you could go through the roof (the same as same the solar cables or TV ariel is) inside a cupboard and use a spreader plate or even a simple penny/repair washer inside. (if you do drill into the roof, watch out for any cabling mind! I made a hole in the last week in my roof and where I drilled it I found a pair of wires that I didn't expect. Use a Forstner bit and you can go carefully without risking cable damage. any other drill bit and you are taking a risk).
In my example, I purposely left a small gap between each panel to avoid a "wing affect". With your proposed panels you will have a very long area for "trapped air" so your front aerofoil to divert the air over the top is a good idea I'd say
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I found these David;


I reckon I could join 2 together at the front and securely bolt them to the roof then just use painted black Ali angle for a short section at the sides of each panel and a piece of angle in between and at the back.

I wouldn't have to buy the Fiamma spoiler then either.
 
wildebus said:
if you can secure a rail either end, and stick it down securely along the whole length, then it will be pretty well fixed. if you could find a way to secure centrally a well that would be best. I would think you could go through the roof (the same as same the solar cables or TV ariel is) inside a cupboard and use a spreader plate or even a simple penny/repair washer inside. (if you do drill into the roof, watch out for any cabling mind! I made a hole in the last week in my roof and where I drilled it I found a pair of wires that I didn't expect. Use a Forstner bit and you can go carefully without risking cable damage. any other drill bit and you are taking a risk).
In my example, I purposely left a small gap between each panel to avoid a "wing affect". With your proposed panels you will have a very long area for "trapped air" so your front aerofoil to divert the air over the top is a good idea I'd say
Click to expand...

I see what you mean now about the rails full length. Yes that would be a good way to go but still using the curved deflector I found across the front.
 
Robmac said:
Yes I like that idea David.

The only problem I can see is that I can't get to the inside of the roof apart from at each end of the van to put a nut and washer. I could put rivnuts in or maybe even well nuts.

I will look into it thanks.
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That looks really nice Rob👍. Slightly more effort needed than pieces of Ali angle but I'd say adopting a system like David's idea and planning for failure will guarantee the panels last forever so you'll benefit in the long run 😏.
One other thing I'd consider is giving the panels some support between the roof and the centre of the actual glass panel to stop it flexing/ocillating like Rolf Harris's wobble board, being shook and vibrated isn't something they'd be subject to on a house and constantly bouncing and flexing probably would do them a lot of good. A couple of large parts pieces of something semi rigid like polystyrene cut slightly undersize and fastened with a bead of Sika would work.
 
merl said:
That looks really nice Rob👍. Slightly more effort needed than pieces of Ali angle but I'd say adopting a system like David's idea and planning for failure will guarantee the panels last forever so you'll benefit in the long run 😏.
One other thing I'd consider is giving the panels some support between the roof and the centre of the actual glass panel to stop it flexing/ocillating like Rolf Harris's wobble board, being shook and vibrated isn't something they'd be subject to on a house and constantly bouncing and flexing probably would do them a lot of good. A couple of large parts pieces of something semi rigid like polystyrene cut slightly undersize and fastened with a bead of Sika would work.
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I've got me 'buy now' finger poised Merl and then I'll have a good look at the panels when they arrive to see what scope I've got for fixings.

Good idea about support for the middle just wondering if it might create a hot spot where the ventilation can't get to it? Wouldn't have thought so though providing it's not too big.
 
merl said:
That looks really nice Rob👍. Slightly more effort needed than pieces of Ali angle but I'd say adopting a system like David's idea and planning for failure will guarantee the panels last forever so you'll benefit in the long run 😏.
One other thing I'd consider is giving the panels some support between the roof and the centre of the actual glass panel to stop it flexing/ocillating like Rolf Harris's wobble board, being shook and vibrated isn't something they'd be subject to on a house and constantly bouncing and flexing probably would do them a lot of good. A couple of large parts pieces of something semi rigid like polystyrene cut slightly undersize and fastened with a bead of Sika would work.
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Just before hitting the 'post' button I proof read what I'd typed and it said :-
"being shook and vibrated isn't something they'd be subject to on a horse"😟
 
merl said:
Aren't you installing a water misting system then Rob?:cool::cool::cool:
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Ordered them now Merl. They didn't have any available for delivery so I have to collect the last 2 from Peterborough tomorrow.

I think I'll take the van!
 
Rob forget the spoiler, the idea is for air to go under to cool in both driving and stationery, 2 inces is about right, if you must install a deflector then place at the upper edge deflecting air over the top but leave the front under section clear.
 
trevskoda said:
Rob forget the spoiler, the idea is for air to go under to cool in both driving and stationery, 2 inces is about right, if you must install a deflector then place at the upper edge deflecting air over the top but leave the front under section clear.
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seen a sheet of plasterboard on a roofrack going down the road?


(have to be quick to, I'll tell you that ;) )
 
trevskoda said:
Rob forget the spoiler, the idea is for air to go under to cool in both driving and stationery, 2 inces is about right, if you must install a deflector then place at the upper edge deflecting air over the top but leave the front under section clear.
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Dunno about that Trev. You sit in a field for a week without air getting forced under the front and they seem to survive?
 
Robmac said:
Dunno about that Trev. You sit in a field for a week without air getting forced under the front and they seem to survive?
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Dont need to be forced just a air flow Rob, cool panels work better, hence the stick on flat jobs die after a few years, also look at home roof panel, air gap under them.
 
trevskoda said:
Dont need to be forced just a air flow Rob, cool panels work better, hence the stick on flat jobs die after a few years, also look at home roof panel, air gap under them.
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Yes I know Trev. There will still be an air gap on the other 3 sides, just not at the front.

It's to stop the 'wing effect' as David said, so there is less stress on the fixings when doing 70mph on the motorway.
 
Robmac said:
Yes I know Trev. There will still be an air gap on the other 3 sides, just not at the front.

It's to stop the 'wing effect' as David said, so there is less stress on the fixings when doing 70mph on the motorway.
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Im lucky as the roof nose on mine is higher than where the panels are, still not taken off as yet but im trying. 😂
 
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@Robmac
You are sensible to be concerned, domestic panels are large heavy and imho must be secured using mechanical fixtures.
The simplest method is to use unistrut bolted and bonded to the roof, three lengths minimum to give sufficient support.

The lighter 41x21x1.5mm slotted stuff is more than adequate and provides flexibility for upgrades, tilt mechanisms and other additions e.g satellite dishes at a later date

The panels are attached using conventional solar mounting clamps into M8 unistrut nuts

I have done many installations using Unistrut, e.g. I used 5x3m lengths on the van below because the owners were also adding a deck.



IMG_20200724_112532_789_Original.jpeg
 
Livotlout said:
Hey Rob,
Remember thickness 'counts' when using Sika 554...Alec.
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Thanks Alec - I was discussing the same with Merl yesterday.

As you may have read I'm going Lithium now. I remember when I bought the Trojans and you showed me the maintenance manual - frightened me to death. They served me well though!

Must meet up for beer before too long mate.
 
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