Yes, the one about refilling 907 Camping Gaz bottles.

As I previously mentioned, rubber washes must not be used with lpg, only neoprene.

If washes aren't available a non setting jointing compound for gas is a better option

Regulators shouldn't be immersed in water, often there is a vent hole one side of the diaphragm if moisture collects in the regulator performance will be affected.

Far better to spend a little buying gas detection fluid , lasts ages and is cheaper than having to replace a regulator
Channa

Thanks for the correction re-neoprene.
I just use a gas ring screwed into the top of the 907 cylinder, there is no regulator. So can dip the whole lot in water to check everything for leaks.
 
Warning - gas bottle taps

I have just had a potentially dangerous episode with a propane bottle. I was filling a 907 cylinder as usual, but it was taking a very long time to fill. So I turned off the taps at both ends and disconnected the hose to see if anything was blocked. There was an escape of gas as I expected - the contents of the hose. But the gas kept coming. The tap on the propane cylinder was leaking, I guess because sediment in the propane bottle had blocked the tap when I turned the cylinder upside down? In normal circumstances the cylinder would always be upright so the sediment would always be at the bottom, away from the tap. I was only able to stop the flow of gas from the propane bottle by screwing in the plastic plug.

Just something to be aware of, and another reason to make sure you really are outdoors away from any sparks or anything that could catch fire before you consider doing anything like this.
 
The cylinder itself will withstand propane...propane pressure in the bottle is higher than butane.

One possible problem you may have is I suspect that you are running propane through a butane regulator which
charges the system at 28 mbar...propane runs at 37 mbar slightly higher because its calorific value is less.

Hi. Ive been contemplating this for ages as the price of a 907 refill in the UK is now just ridiculous. Several questions I have so please be patient if have been covered before. Ok, I dont want to keep changing regulators all the time when I switch between Propane/Butane bottles as supplies run low, so if there's a problem running propane through a butane regulator, how about the other way round -if I only want to use one regulator is it best to standardise on propane, and if so how will butane perform if at all??

Thanks in advance!:confused:
 
A bit late to the party, but the following may be of interest:

Like many campers I'm annoyed at the rip-off prices of Camping Gaz 907 bottle refills, and a google brought me to this site when looking for answers.

In spite of the posts describing successful filling of 907's with propane, I decided that as the bottle is designed for butane, I would refill with this fuel.

Browsing available adaptors and hoses on BES's web site: Plumbing Supplies | BES Gas & Plumbing Fittings, I found the following:

16642 21 mm clip-on adaptor £7.98
16643 Camping Gaz adaptor £12.78

Both on page: CARAVAN REGULATORS & HOSE ASSEMBLIES

also:

16712 400mm long, 6.3mm I.D., W20 nut and tail both ends, black hose. £3.39

On page: HIGH & LOW PRESSURE HOSE ASSEMBLIES & LPG COOKER KITS

Total cost including £4.95 delivery £34.92

The following steps to fill a 907 bottle were taken in the garden - well away from a possible source of naked flame.

1) I fitted the connectors and hose together making sure the Gaz valve was turned off. I then fitted the clip-on Calor adaptor to a full 15Kg Calor bottle.

2) Next I turned on the Calor bottle and briefly opened the Gaz adaptor valve to purge the connections of air.

3) I then hoisted the Calor bottle upside down, hanging from a step ladder.

4) The 907 bottle was then fitted and the valve opened.

5) The 907 bottle proceeded to fill, as evidenced by a faint trickling sound.

6) After about 20mins, the trickling sound ceased, and I deemed the bottle to be filled.

7) Weighing the 907 bottle showed the net contents to be 2.3Kg, which represents a 84% fill. (I used digital luggage weighing scales from Lidl - labeled 'SilverCrest Z31123'. It was cheap and very convenient in use.)

The process was easy - the most difficult part being the hoisting of the 15Kg Calor bottle between the step ladder! The fittings sealed well with no evidence of leaks.

I'm aware that I spent £34.92 on the fittings and £33 on 15Kg of Calor gas, totalling £67.92 - so at this stage I'm well down regarding savings. But I guess I can get around 5 fills from a 15Kg Calor bottle, by which time I should be well ahead. Also, what price can you put on pulling one over the Gaz sellers?

Jim
 
Excellent thread, I've read quite a few on different forums and this one seems to have the best info.
I've been a user of small Gaz stoves with the throw away canisters for a number of years, but have recently bought an old Tilley Titan after being impressed by one I borrowed from a friend. As it's an older version of the Titan it will run happily on regulated Propane, or unregulated Butane. I have a 3.9kg propane bottle that I refilled to about 50% from bigger cylinders that I use for my house cooker.
The propane works fine, but even with the small 3.9 kg (same size as the 4.5kg Butane) bottle it's a bit bulky for my Berlingo so I've decided to go to Butane on a 907 which I'll refill from a 13kg Calor cylinder. Even though I have the means to refill the 907 with Propane, I tend to agree with others on here that it'll be better with Butane which has a higher density and lower pressure.

Update:
As it wasn't raining this morning, I decided to try out filling the 907 bottle. I weighed the empty 907 @ 3.7kg, my first attempt got 1kg of gas into the 907 after about 30 mins, but the pipe between the 2 bottles was only slightly angled down toward the 907 bottle. On my second attempt I put the 907 much lower relative to the Calor bottle with the transfer pipe almost vertical and after about 20 mins I had 2kg of gas in the 907 bottle, plenty enough for me. I made the transfer pipe fairly short in order to save gas, but my guess is that a pipe as short as practically possible would be best to allow gas & liquid transfer as well as saving gas.

As noted in earlier posts:
Don't do this indoors, some gas escape inevitable. I worked outside in the garden.
The gas in the transfer pipe is in fact liquid and will burn exposed skin so wear heavy gloves like gardening gloves when disconnecting the pipes.
My 907 bottle had a slight leak at the valve after filling, I used a little olive oil on the valve & on the tap before screwing the tap back in. No more leaks after taking the tap out. I have the carry handle in place too which I notice has a sealing washer so my guess is they expected some leakage from the ball valve.
 
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