Warning about A-Frame towing

There won’t be many mechanics left that can fix a car without having to plug it into a computer,so that the computer can tell them what part to change, not fix
The trouble is that the mechanics don't have any brain cells and just do what the computer tells them. The computer is usually wrong, as I have found out to my several thousands of pounds cost. Youtube has some excellent diagnostic videos, done properly. Look at Diagnose Dan, who starts at the battery - is there 12v? and procedes logically from there.
To avoid stupid parts changing monkeys I have bought a 41 year old Mercedes with no electronics at all, just electrics: a starter motor, windscreen wipers and lights. . . . . . . . .
. . . . . .
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Trouble is, I am just going to take delivery of a 2019 AutoSleeper . . . . . gulp. Think I'll have to spend a year learning about CanBusses.
 
20 odd years ago I wanted to tow a vehicle behind my 28 foot Gulfstream to use for local sightseeing where the Motorhome will not go and in 85,000 miles around Europe we have been in some very tight places.

Firstly in 2000 the law stated that if the trailer has brakes then they must work even if the trailer is less than 750 Kg. So I designed and built an A frame that applied the car's brakes, without servo assist, if the force on the towbar exceeded 30Newtons.

In a "normal" trailer the coupling contracts to apply the trailer brakes using the force between the trailer and the towing vehicle.
There is a major defect in this system.
1 the difference in deceleration is integrated to a difference in velocity.
2 the difference in velocity is integrated into a difference in position which is used to apply the brakes.
3 Anyone who studied control theory knows that two integrators in a feedback loop will oscillate just as the old Rice trailers did. The "normal" solution is to apply a hydraulic damper (shock absorber) to quell the oscillations.
4. Apart from the initial shove from behind that lasts for nearly the maximum of 0.6 secs, the solution is only viable with a fixed trailer mass. It is very load dependant.
5 The "normal" system releases the brakes at 8% when reversing so the you do not need to get out to engage the old reversing lock because that could be left on and that is dangerous. However a fully loaded trailer when parked on an incline released its brakes at 8% and careered down hill killing two people

My system on the other hand has no reversing lock, it is load independant and has a crude ABS and break away control all in the electronics. It also allows a standard parking break without limit.

The DVSA does not give approval but only allows trailers with approval. Alan Mendalson wrote that I could not get SVA approval because they would not give it.

The NTTA used to gain approval by simply driving the prototype down the road arranging to get prosecuted. They then go to appeal and if their appeal is successful IPSO FACTO it has been approved. That was too expensive for me so my ultra safe A frame is still a rotting prototype and the car went to the scrappers 17 years ago.
 
The NTTA used to gain approval by simply driving the prototype down the road arranging to get prosecuted. They then go to appeal and if their appeal is successful IPSO FACTO it has been approved. That was too expensive for me so my ultra safe A frame is still a rotting prototype and the car went to the scrappers 17 years ago.
Where do you get that idea from?
The NTTA have never been involved in gaining approval for trailers. They do not and have never manufactured trailers!
The NTTA is a not-for-profit organisation, and is the main body in the UK representing the light towing industry. Whilst it provides training, advises other institutions and maintains a quality scheme for members, it manufactures nothing.

I was a Director of the NTTA for a number of years, My company provided the first industry training school and was the first in the U.K. to be Q.S. (Quality Secured) approved, over 20 years ago.
 
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Easy answer to the problem .............. IF YOU WANT TO TOW GET A CARAVAN
As an ex site owner in France, it never ceased to amaze me the number of enormous (stupid) MoHo's that arrived towing either a trailer with a car on board or a car on an 'A' frame and I always said to them, if you don't mind towing then why the hell not buy a decent high spec car and a luxury caravan as large as you need it to be............... Always the answer was "we don't like towing"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Where do you get that idea from?
The NTTA have never been involved in gaining approval for trailers. They do not and have never manufactured trailers!
The NTTA is a not-for-profit organisation, and is the main body in the UK representing the light towing industry. Whilst it provides training, advises other institutions and maintains a quality scheme for members, it manufactures nothing.

I was a Director of the NTTA for a number of years, My company provided the first industry training school and was the first in the U.K. to be Q.S. (Quality Secured) approved, over 20 years ago.
For the avoidance of doubt, When I say “my company”, I’m referring to my own trailer manufacturing business, an NTTA member.
I happened to be a director of the NTTA (and council member) at the same time..
 
The trouble is that the mechanics don't have any brain cells and just do what the computer tells them. The computer is usually wrong, as I have found out to my several thousands of pounds cost. Youtube has some excellent diagnostic videos, done properly. Look at Diagnose Dan, who starts at the battery - is there 12v? and procedes logically from there.
To avoid stupid parts changing monkeys I have bought a 41 year old Mercedes with no electronics at all, just electrics: a starter motor, windscreen wipers and lights. . . . . . . . .
. . . . . .
. . . . . .
Trouble is, I am just going to take delivery of a 2019 AutoSleeper . . . . . gulp. Think I'll have to spend a year learning about CanBusses.
Really, no fuel injection and still on points. What model have you bought. I might want one.
 
I wish I'd kept hold of the one Julie had then Trev if you're right!

But auction estimates over here are £2500-£3500 and one recently sold for £1800 in 'excellent condition'. I might even buy one.
If you do i will help you with the very few mods required to make them run well, i have 1 105 2 130gl a nd 1 136 black coup with only 17000 miles on here.
A few hoses to change and a thermostat keeps them going. :)
 
10 grand ....

Only if you've stuffed 8 grand in the glove box ...lolView attachment 127350
Black coups are hitting the high penneys, same layout on suspension and brakes on the 130gl except it still has the iron head, this can be swapped for a compleat ally engine with a little work, knocks it up from 54bhp to 67, a little more work and they are good for 110mph.
 
If you do i will help you with the very few mods required to make them run well, i have 1 105 2 130gl a nd 1 136 black coup with only 17000 miles on here.
A few hoses to change and a thermostat keeps them going. :)

Only mod I made on Julie's was a heat shield between the manifold and the petrol feed pipe Trev. It was a great little car to be honest.
 
Only mod I made on Julie's was a heat shield between the manifold and the petrol feed pipe Trev. It was a great little car to be honest.
They require the green vacum hose changed as it holes after a few years and hard to set carb as drawing air and poor brakes, fuel line hose and green bleed hose from rad up drivers side top wing to heater, weller stat and 50/50 antifreeze to stop head gasket troubles with different metals.
Most of the dealers in n i sent there cars to me and ask about mods, i must be an ex pert. 😂
The other problem was the winding wires on the starter parting from the comutator, easy sort before this happens was to tie down with string and cover in aroldite, forgot about that mod almost.
 
They require the green vacum hose changed as it holes after a few years and hard to set carb as drawing air and poor brakes, fuel line hose and green bleed hose from rad up drivers side top wing to heater, weller stat and 50/50 antifreeze to stop head gasket troubles with different metals.
Most of the dealers in n i sent there cars to me and ask about mods, i must be an ex pert. 😂
The other problem was the winding wires on the starter parting from the comutator, easy sort before this happens was to tie down with string and cover in aroldite, forgot about that mod almost.
Sound like too many problems to me, I'll stick with my ECU'ed, fuel injected, VVT, electronic diff, Suzi with it's keyless ignition.
 

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