Under seal

M/cycle chains these days are sealed and oiling them atracts dust/grit which wears them out faster.

That's not quite true. X ring and O ring chains have grease 'trapped' in them but still require occasional lubrication. We use non o rings on our KTMs and they require constant lubricating. Obviously a lot depends on the conditions you use your motorcycle.
 

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In the last 30 years chains have been o ring sealed and only require a wipe over with a almost dry cloth containing lite oil.
In days gone past you removed the chain and boiled it in a tin of duckhams chain oil wiping dry on outside before refitting to bike,hope this clears things up regarding chain and lubs.

Taken from Regina Chain's maintenance manual:
"In the O-Ring chains, lubrication is provided by grease sealed in the working area by O-Rings.
However, it is still necessary to provide periodic lubrication to the chain.
Lubricant between rollers and bushings will decrease friction and heat, and will improve the efficiency of the drive, extending chain and sprockets life.
Lubrication also keeps O-Rings in good condition and protects the metallic components from rust and corrosion.
Use SAE 80W-90 mineral oil or motorcycle chain specific lubricants safe for O-Rings."

The full manual can be seen here.

I hope this clears things up regarding chain and lubs

Regards,
Del
 
LinkLyfe boil in a tin lube, now that would stick to the bottom of a motorhome

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Regina, Renthal, CK - very poor chains compared to DID. We use DID ERT2 non o ring for motocross - best chain on the market. Their X and O rings are of the same high quality. Nought to do with using ACF 50 though.
 
Taken from Regina Chain's maintenance manual:
"In the O-Ring chains, lubrication is provided by grease sealed in the working area by O-Rings.
However, it is still necessary to provide periodic lubrication to the chain.
Lubricant between rollers and bushings will decrease friction and heat, and will improve the efficiency of the drive, extending chain and sprockets life.
Lubrication also keeps O-Rings in good condition and protects the metallic components from rust and corrosion.
Use SAE 80W-90 mineral oil or motorcycle chain specific lubricants safe for O-Rings."

The full manual can be seen here.

I hope this clears things up regarding chain and lubs

Regards,
Del

All the race boys here wipe over with a rag with light oil,there doing almost 200mph,as i said light oil rubed over as to much atracts grit which wears the chain out,scramblers trial bike have to be re cleaned and oiled ,some have a cleaner pad which the chain runs through to do so.
I did not say no oil but folk sloshing oil will find its way onto back tyre,not good cranked over at well past the ton.
I started early on bikes.
 

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Scrambling lol? You sure did start out early on bikes. However, hats off to those old scramblers getting their bikes round a track. Loads of power (500 two strokes, ***), wooden brakes, crap suspension. Heroes.
 
That's not quite true. X ring and O ring chains have grease 'trapped' in them but still require occasional lubrication. We use non o rings on our KTMs and they require constant lubricating. Obviously a lot depends on the conditions you use your motorcycle.

Even Z rings now. All the "ringed" chains require lubing. In fact really only specialised
ring chain lubes should be used, because the syn. rubber rings will rot out, crack whatever if
engine/gear oils WD40 etc. are used. Once the rubber rings go the roller grease gets out
and it's money wasted.

Also for cleaning the ringed chains, nothing stronger than kero, or the specialised cleaners.

If the above isn't true then I've been wasting my hard earned for at least 8 years because
I buy new bikes and ringed chains is what comes as standard.
Truth is I reckon after a few thousand miles the rings wear to the extent that kero or
cleaner bypasses the rings and washes the lube out anyway!
 
Scrambling lol? You sure did start out early on bikes. However, hats off to those old scramblers getting their bikes round a track. Loads of power (500 two strokes, ***), wooden brakes, crap suspension. Heroes.

500 two strokes my bum,bsa b40/b50 tiger cubs or JAP singles with total loss oil pumps running on dope,ah the smell of R40.
 
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The thing about chains is that there are two separate things being lubricated:
* the roller bearings inside each link (which probably do have sealed-in grease) .

Only the ones with sealing rings. With conventional chains getting lubrication in the
roller is a hope, even with dipping in pre heated lubricant after a heated kero cleanup bath.
Hence the development of factory sealed-in prelubed chains, which shouldn't be
cleaned with any harsh solvent based cleaner or petrol.
 
I used to get back from a 2-3 hundred mile ride & immediately stick the bike on it's center stand & spray O ring grease on it, the theory was that as the chain was warm the grease had an easier time getting in to it.

I only used DID chains they're still the best now.

As for underseal, it's possible to mix Isoflex liquid rubber with about 30% clean full synth engine oil & spray that with a Schutz gun. it takes a few days to cure but is very tough & as it's full synth oil it won't perish any rubber mounts etc it touches.
Need to mask off your brakes though!

Phill
 
The trouble with a rubbery coating is that damp can get trapped inside it.

Thats true as when peeling back some on my old soda to weld rust holes were below.
No rust on my old f/glass jago jeep kit.
 

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The damp being trapped behind the under seal was the reason I started looking for a non setting moisture barrier.
With an oil based non setting sealant, the thinking is, any corrosion will be visible, so treatable.
Hidden under a solid barrier it can cause a lot more damage.
 

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