It's got a built in BMS Barry but I think you would need an appropriate MPPT, maybe a Victron?
Somebody clevererer than me will come along before too long (if such a person exists)![]()
If you're never going to push the BMS with high inverter loads AND the Eco worthy fits nicely AND saving a few quid AND the ease of hooking everything up appeals then the Eco worthy's plusses could outweigh the slight increase in theoretical reliability and convenience should a fault occur.Pandas and Zebras Merl but not much else!
To be honest anything but basic electrics is beyond me and I usually get help for electrical installations. I do see your point though (and Jeff's) so maybe 3 x 100.
Much appreciated.
If you're never going to push the BMS with high inverter loads AND the Eco worthy fits nicely AND saving a few quid AND the ease of hooking everything up appeals then the Eco worthy's plusses could outweigh the slight increase in theoretical reliability and convenience should a fault occur.
When it comes to predicting reliability of electronic components it's almost a coin toss, stress (heat) will shorten life of any component but some components are unpredictably (for the likes of you and I) less resilient than others so nothing is a given. I myself typically end up going the cheap route mainly because when stuff fails I can repair it but I'm fortunate in that sense and I don't mind using cheap chargers, inverters, etc rather than forking out for Victron etc al.
I guess if the Eco doesn't fit and 3 singles do then that'll be the clincher anyways![]()
The internet says that you're risking damage to components and wiring in the charge circuit between alternator and hab battery. In the past I thought the same and would have agreed but having spent some time doing the maths I think the opposite will actually happen and charging while driving will typically be slow to very slow. Actual real life users show the latter happens, So if you fancy being the WC Guinea Pig ...,.
The internet says that you're risking damage to components and wiring in the charge circuit between alternator and hab battery. In the past I thought the same and would have agreed but having spent some time doing the maths I think the opposite will actually happen and charging while driving will typically be slow to very slow. Actual real life users show the latter happens, So if you fancy being the WC Guinea Pig ...,.
WRT charging from EHU and solar, Ideally you need different settings for lithium so that will depend on exactly what functionality/ adjustability that the charging system in the MH has. Some are adjustable to accommodate lithium, some would be suitable as is at a pinch.
Wasn't your control system mentioned in a previous post somewhere?
Both your solar controller (which I think you said you'd swap over from Hank? This needs a Lithium setting or parameters that are adjustable by the user.Yeah thats what I thought someone might say. Do you mean my solar control unit?
Both your solar controller (which I think you said you'd swap over from Hank? This needs a Lithium setting or parameters that are adjustable by the user.
Same thing ideally WRT the mains (EHU) charger in your MH electrical system, I think a Sargent unit was mentioned before? If this hasn't got a lithium setting you can muscle through by using the gel setting, you really ought to switch it off when the batteries are 100% charged and of course then switch back on to recharge. Obvs open to error and a faff but technically possible.
We put stainless screws, one in each corner on our old Talbot. Filled the screw heads with Sikaflex 522 and never had a problem. I used the screws because I was not sure of the the Sikaflex bonding. Our current van just has Sikaflex and we check them regularly, but seems secure enough. But I am thinking of "upgrading" the fixing.Do you use any mechanical fixings as well Bill?
I'm tempted to put one bolt for each panel as a sort of 'dead man's handle' but not sure if it's necessary.