Removing a Tracker

Can you el
Why wouldn’t you want to have the tracker working ?
It won’t have any resale value,as the £1000 you were told that it cost it is probably attached to an alarm system coupled with ****** costs in its installation will be where most of its costs were.
I installed my own tracker but I haven’t informed the insurance, as because I installed it my self I doubt that they would recognise it.
You can buy a little gadget off eBay for very little money that will let you find where the tracker is, as this is what the scumbags use when they steal vehicles
can you elaborate on the little gadget thing please, what to look for ?
 
Why wouldn’t you want to have the tracker working ?
It won’t have any resale value,as the £1000 you were told that it cost it is probably attached to an alarm system coupled with ****** costs in its installation will be where most of its costs were.
I installed my own tracker but I haven’t informed the insurance, as because I installed it my self I doubt that they would recognise it.
You can buy a little gadget off eBay for very little money that will let you find where the tracker is, as this is what the scumbags use when they steal vehicles

For a tech person when it comes to Motorhomes I'm a bit of a dinosaur! :LOL: All I see is potential problems. I am dreading getting to grips with all the gadgets. Ill maybe contact the company when I get it home, see what they say.
 
best of luck to the guys attempting to remove it. I had a tracker fitted to a car back in 2002 and the engineers refused to tell me where it was located. Years later I scrapped the car and tried to find it (without success) apparently the modules are really small and hidden well away.
That explains why a tin of beens keeps beeping in my larder, recycling at its best. 😂
 
See what gets passed over in the paperwork and if you can identify the supplier and re-subscribe I'd do so. Battery drain should be minimal and easy enough to deal with.
I've had a MH nicked previously Baz and it's a massive Ball ache and wouldn't be without our alarm/tracker/ immobiliser on our current van which incidentally was attacked by thieves only a few weeks ago. Neat hole under the driver's door handle now but the scumbags didn't make off with it.
 
See what gets passed over in the paperwork and if you can identify the supplier and re-subscribe I'd do so. Battery drain should be minimal and easy enough to deal with.
I've had a MH nicked previously Baz and it's a massive Ball ache and wouldn't be without our alarm/tracker/ immobiliser on our current van which incidentally was attacked by thieves only a few weeks ago. Neat hole under the driver's door handle now but the scumbags didn't make off with it.

Will investigate that.
 
If you phone outsmart the thief with your reg they'll tell you if it's their unit, I'm sure other companies will do that too, just need a coordinated phone around.

There is a load of documentation with the van. Im sure I have seen something as regards the Tracker. Will suss it out on Monday. Its not a massive priority.
 
Allegedly it cost £1000. If the Tracker company can read it and communicate with it then that means its got power which means when I am sat in a field for three weeks it will drain me battery! Probably getting ahead of myself. Will see what it is later. Its just that its going in for a Cambelt tomorrow and I might have just said, rip this tracker out please. Presumably its not that easy anyway otherwise the thief would just do exactly that.
I also have an old tracker on my motorhome ,and it does or something else provides a phantom load , fortunately I have a negative earth switch which I always switch off that rectifies the problem and also helps against a potential theft.
 
I also have an old tracker on my motorhome ,and it does or something else provides a phantom load , fortunately I have a negative earth switch which I always switch off that rectifies the problem and also helps against a potential theft.

Interesting. What exactly does a negative earth switch do? I presume its a cab battery isolator? I used to just whip off the negative battery lead on the old van which of course had no negative effect on the operation of the van with it being from the last century but I had assumed rightly or wrongly that this might not be the case on a 2015 Fiat Ducato. If I can sort that out then that would be good. We like to park up often for weeks on end so isolating the cab battery would be good.
 
It's good news that is a high quality one. Much less likely to act as a parasitic draw on your battery.

Don't follow that logic.

It could be wired to permanent supply or to ignition only regardless of the quality.

Permanent supply will be parasitic draw, ignition only will not detect non engine powered movement.
 
Interesting. What exactly does a negative earth switch do? I presume its a cab battery isolator? I used to just whip off the negative battery lead on the old van which of course had no negative effect on the operation of the van with it being from the last century but I had assumed rightly or wrongly that this might not be the case on a 2015 Fiat Ducato. If I can sort that out then that would be good. We like to park up often for weeks on end so isolating the cab battery would be good.
Apparently there's a routine to be followed when disconnecting and reconnecting. Don't know how important it is to follow in reality, I've swapped my cab battery without following the above and nothing happened??From a fiat forum.


BSI (Body System Interface) Reboot Procedure (Ducato Body Control Module)

PROCEDURE FOR BATTERY DISCONNECTION

Whenever a vehicle battery has to be disconnected, switch off all equipment, interior lights etc, close the doors leaving the driver’s window open.

Switch off the ignition and remove the key and any diagnostic equipment.

Wait a full 3 minutes before disconnecting the battery.

The BSi must be allowed to go to SLEEP i.e. into "active economy mode". Do not operate any equipment on the vehicle during this time. Remember, even opening the bonnet will wake the BSi on a vehicle fitted with alarm.

If the battery is under the bonnet, open the bonnet first and leave it up.

ALWAYS disconnect any diagnostic equipment and do not operate any other vehicles in the vicinity during the 3 minute waiting period.


PROCEDURE FOR BATTERY RECONNECTION

Unless otherwise instructed by Peugeot or Product Service, you must always carry out the following procedure, often referred to as a "soft re-boot", to minimize the possibility of the BSi corrupting its own software when reconnecting the vehicles battery supply.

Ensure the procedure for battery disconnection has been adhered to and importantly all BSi functions were switched off with the driver’s window left down.

1 Close all doors
2 Remove ignition key if left in ignition
3 Reconnect battery. DO NOT open any doors
4 Wait 10 seconds
5 Switch on headlights through the driver’s window
6 Switch on ignition then start the vehicle and check system functions
 
Apparently there's a routine to be followed when disconnecting and reconnecting. From a fiat forum.


BSI (Body System Interface) Reboot Procedure (Ducato Body Control Module)

PROCEDURE FOR BATTERY DISCONNECTION

Whenever a vehicle battery has to be disconnected, switch off all equipment, interior lights etc, close the doors leaving the driver’s window open.

Switch off the ignition and remove the key and any diagnostic equipment.

Wait a full 3 minutes before disconnecting the battery.

The BSi must be allowed to go to SLEEP i.e. into "active economy mode". Do not operate any equipment on the vehicle during this time. Remember, even opening the bonnet will wake the BSi on a vehicle fitted with alarm.

If the battery is under the bonnet, open the bonnet first and leave it up.

ALWAYS disconnect any diagnostic equipment and do not operate any other vehicles in the vicinity during the 3 minute waiting period.


PROCEDURE FOR BATTERY RECONNECTION

Unless otherwise instructed by Peugeot or Product Service, you must always carry out the following procedure, often referred to as a "soft re-boot", to minimize the possibility of the BSi corrupting its own software when reconnecting the vehicles battery supply.

Ensure the procedure for battery disconnection has been adhered to and importantly all BSi functions were switched off with the driver’s window left down.

1 Close all doors
2 Remove ignition key if left in ignition
3 Reconnect battery. DO NOT open any doors
4 Wait 10 seconds
5 Switch on headlights through the driver’s window
6 Switch on ignition then start the vehicle and check system functions

Oh stuff that for a game of soldiers. I think ill leave it connected. :D Maybe a battery master longer term for the solar would be the best option but that wont help come winter parked on the drive or in storage.
 
You may well already have a battery maintainer fitted Baz, don't fret, it's not even on your drive yet 🤗I don't know what you do about that with your current MH WRT storage but without solar or 240v mains available maybe do actually fully charge and disconnect ALL the batteries? Can't you simply plug in EHU when at home,/no solar? That's all I do.
 
You may well already have a battery maintainer fitted Baz, don't fret, it's not even on your drive yet 🤗I don't know what you do about that with your current MH WRT storage but without solar or 240v mains available maybe do actually fully charge and disconnect ALL the batteries? Can't you simply plug in EHU when at home,/no solar? That's all I do.

HaHa! as you will have noticed I like to be ahead of the game! :D I think its working in IT for all those years. Lots of what if scenarios ahead to think about.

With the current van as said I just whip off the negative battery lead. Job done. The only thing that needs resetting is the LED clock. There is no access to hookup on the drive (if it fits on the drive) or in the undercover storage. Taking it out every couple of weeks might be the only answer. I can get a battery charger to the cab though at home on the drive but I bet thats not just a case of whacking it on in situ either.

Will get it back home on Monday all being well and take it from there. :D
 
There is no access to hookup on the drive (if it fits on the drive) or in the undercover storage. ....

I can get a battery charger to the cab though at home on the drive

If you can get a battery charger to the MoHo in the drive you can hook up to EHU at home and use the built in charger.

 
Interesting. What exactly does a negative earth switch do? I presume its a cab battery isolator? I used to just whip off the negative battery lead on the old van which of course had no negative effect on the operation of the van with it being from the last century but I had assumed rightly or wrongly that this might not be the case on a 2015 Fiat Ducato. If I can sort that out then that would be good. We like to park up often for weeks on end so isolating the cab battery would be good.
Daft, why not get the solar to charge it, you may lose settings if you go down this root.
 
I think solar is the preferred option in Barrie's case tooTrev and then lifepo4 batteries so sitting partially charged isn't an issue. Before you suggest carbon😉 lithium is now so cheap I don't see full price lead as a sensible option any longer.

I agree Merl. My solar panel will charge the leisure batteries to an optimum level and then switch to charging the cab battery.
 

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