OUR NEW TO US MOTORHOME!

[Mtbcol]

It happened to my mates neighbour. They were attacking his work van with an angle grinder and he went out to challenge them, there were 3 big blokes and they told him to "go back in and 'phone the Police, or stay out here and get badly hurt".

He went back in and 'phoned the Police, they never came out and all he could do was watch from the window as they stole all of his tools.

As hard as it would be to do it was the right thing to do.

 

[Nabsim]

Ahh, ok I would like to have got a bit more solar than we have at the moment but seems like there may not be room. Thank you, some pictures would be great. Not too worried about pretty but safe is essential .

Don't forget that from around now to Spring you will get better solar harvesting by hanging panels off the van. You have to be able to store it when moving though so probably better looking at the foldable type as used with power banks maybe.

 

[Mtbcol]

Don't forget that from around now to Spring you will get better solar harvesting by hanging panels off the van. You have to be able to store it when moving though so probably better looking at the foldable type as used with power banks maybe.

Thanks Nabsim. We've got a 160 w foldable one at present, but maybe another one as well once finances allow

 

[wildebus]

When it comes to maximizing solar on a busy Motorhome roof, there are a few options.

1) create a raised platform or supports to allow panels to run over roof vents and the like.
Some go for this option if they really need the absolute maximum but obviously has downsides.

2) select panels to run along the various spaces to maximize the use.
The Mailbu motorhome below has a very large satellite dish, two roof vents and a large kitchen vent but I still found room for around 700W of PV Panelling.

Malibu - Front
Word of warning though - these are excellent panels but not cheap

3) get 'regular' panels and then small panels to "in-fill" the spaces.
You need to select the panels carefully to make sure they all work together in an optimal way. This is my own Motorhome which has quite a limited roof space due to a big cab overhead dome, a large skylight, 2 more roof vents and a satellite dish.

Monty-Roof
Managed to fit 450W worth of PV Panels by using 3 90W Panels in the large rectangular space between the two rear roof vents and then another 6 30W PV Panels mounted in the various gaps to make the most use of the space.
This is a cheaper option than #2 but obviously needs more cabling and forethought.

 

[Mtbcol]

When it comes to maximizing solar on a busy Motorhome roof, there are a few options.

1) create a raised platform or supports to allow panels to run over roof vents and the like.
Some go for this option if they really need the absolute maximum but obviously has downsides.

2) select panels to run along the various spaces to maximize the use.
The Mailbu motorhome below has a very large satellite dish, two roof vents and a large kitchen vent but I still found room for around 700W of PV Panelling.

Malibu - Front
Word of warning though - these are excellent panels but not cheap

3) get 'regular' panels and then small panels to "in-fill" the spaces.
You need to select the panels carefully to make sure they all work together in an optimal way. This is my own Motorhome which has quite a limited roof space due to a big cab overhead dome, a large skylight, 2 more roof vents and a satellite dish.

Monty-Roof
Managed to fit 450W worth of PV Panels by using 3 90W Panels in the large rectangular space between the two rear roof vents and then another 6 30W PV Panels mounted in the various gaps to make the most use of the space.
This is a cheaper option than #2 but obviously needs more cabling and forethought.

I'm happy to do the panel jigsaw, just want to get as much solar as we can get . How did you secure the panels to the roof? We've had our single, large 330w panel on the Transit roof for several years and several thousand miles. I know this is frowned upon by many but it's secured to plastic corner and mid frame brackets with bolts and in turn the plastic brackets are stuck to the roof with sikaflex. The roof was thoroughly cleaned and keyed first as we're the plastic brackets. I assume I will need to do the same on the Burstner as even if I wanted to it would be difficult to bolt them to the plastic roof.

 

[Robmac]

I used 2 Unistrut bars Sikaflex'd and bolted to the roof and then used 'L' brackets to attach 2 x 425W panels to my plastic roof. I only used 2 bolts, 1 at the front of each Unistrut bar but to be honest I don't think they were necessary.

 

[Trotter]

Ahh, ok I would like to have got a bit more solar than we have at the moment but seems like there may not be room. Thank you, some pictures would be great. Not too worried about pretty but safe is essential .

To increase my solar input, I use a folding 200w panel when I’m parked. The 500w panel's on the roof tilt as well.
Usually that’s enough for me to be gas free. I say “usually “. Messed up big time this trip. Just as well I didn’t take the gas hob out, as I’d planned.
Everyday a school day

 

[Robmac]

To increase my solar input, I use a folding 200w panel when I’m parked. The 500w panel's on the roof tilt as well.
Usually that’s enough for me to be gas free. I say “usually “. Messed up big time this trip. Just as well I didn’t take the gas hob out, as I’d planned.
Everyday a school day

I carry one of these Del as a backup for emergencies.

https://www.millets.co.uk/19625634/outwell-appetizer-solo-stove-19625634/5792893/?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping

 

[Bouydog]

I'm happy to do the panel jigsaw, just want to get as much solar as we can get . How did you secure the panels to the roof? We've had our single, large 330w panel on the Transit roof for several years and several thousand miles. I know this is frowned upon by many but it's secured to plastic corner and mid frame brackets with bolts and in turn the plastic brackets are stuck to the roof with sikaflex. The roof was thoroughly cleaned and keyed first as we're the plastic brackets. I assume I will need to do the same on the Burstner as even if I wanted to it would be difficult to bolt them to the plastic roof.

It is only the front sloping part of the roof that is plastic the rest is aluminium. I bolted the panels to aluminium angle equal to the longer side of the panels and glued them to the roof with sikaflex two years ago …….still there afaik

 

[Nabsim]

My panels have been Sikaflexed to the roof over 7 years now using the plastic corner and centre brackets. The brackets are a full moulding so bottom surface area is all plastic, no cut outs, have seen some with not much surface area.

I have no qualms using just adhesive but I do check with manufacturer for recommendations and then do what they say.

If I had a panel van or if my Moho had roof rails I would use unistrut though. More flexibility with that I think and easier option to swap panels/add tilt at later date. At one point I was thinking of sticking unistrut on my Moho roof but didn't, would have to check weight differences now if I wanted to do it

 

[Mtbcol]

It is only the front sloping part of the roof that is plastic the rest is aluminium. I bolted the panels to aluminium angle equal to the longer side of the panels and glued them to the roof with sikaflex two years ago …….still there afaik

Sikaflex it is then

 

[Mtbcol]

My panels have been Sikaflexed to the roof over 7 years now using the plastic corner and centre brackets. The brackets are a full moulding so bottom surface area is all plastic, no cut outs, have seen some with not much surface area.

I have no qualms using just adhesive but I do check with manufacturer for recommendations and then do what they say.

If I had a panel van or if my Moho had roof rails I would use unistrut though. More flexibility with that I think and easier option to swap panels/add tilt at later date. At one point I was thinking of sticking unistrut on my Moho roof but didn't, would have to check weight differences now if I wanted to do it

In that case I think I'll continue with the Sikaflex method, as I say, it's done ok for us on our panel van conversion

 

[wildebus]

I'm happy to do the panel jigsaw, just want to get as much solar as we can get . How did you secure the panels to the roof? We've had our single, large 330w panel on the Transit roof for several years and several thousand miles. I know this is frowned upon by many but it's secured to plastic corner and mid frame brackets with bolts and in turn the plastic brackets are stuck to the roof with sikaflex. The roof was thoroughly cleaned and keyed first as we're the plastic brackets. I assume I will need to do the same on the Burstner as even if I wanted to it would be difficult to bolt them to the plastic roof.

I really like the "Z Brackets" first introduced by Renogy many years ago and now copied by countless others - a link to a multi-set here - https://amzn.to/4783YiW - but you can buy them in packs of just 4 (you need 4 per panel, one per corner).
I prefer them to the plastic corner and mid-position supports as they are less bulky, more secure (IMO) and also a fair bit cheaper - so a win-win there I have used the plastic ones as well when I have added a panel to existing ones that have them as it makes it more cohesive when the fittings match between old and new.

My motorhome was fitted with a very robust tubular roof-rack and that is what I attached the 90W panels to. got 2 strips of aluminium L profile which the 3 panels are screwed to front and back and then using U-Clamps (like exhaust repair clamps) the rails are secured to the rack tubes.
In the case of my 30W panels, I used the Z Brackets and secured with Sikaflex. I needed to move one of the panels at the rear to make room for the Snipe Satellite and it was a fair bit of work to get the brackets released, so I am very happy with how secure they are

In terms of security, the strength of the glue and the bracket is totally secondary to the preparation. As an example, I upgraded Annies (campervanannie) electrics setup, including replacing the solar panel with a pair of 175W ones. That original panel had been on for years - we don't know how long exactly and was attached using the plastic mounts which were attached with a sikaflex (or similar) to the roof. Now this van's solar install stays in my mind as I could remove the exisiting panel fitting without any tools and - and this is not an exaggeration - just by putting my little finger under the panel corner and pulling upwards! The adhesive stayed on the roof and that part was very hard to remove but there was not a trace of adhesive on the plastic mount. It had obviously not been prepped at all and it is only by very good fortune the panel had not lifted off in the past.

 

[Mtbcol]

Wow! That could have had disastrous consequences. I would love to bolt mine to the new motorhome roof, but think it would be a mammoth task to drill through the roof and re fit the internal roof too look good afterwards. When I used the plastic brackets on the our panel van conversion I made sure I de greased and then keyed them thoroughly fairly course wet and dry paper, also had about 2 mm of sealant between the roof and bracket not squashed down to the roof like people make the mistake of doing. If I had a roofrack on the new Burstner they would be going on that though

 

[Nabsim]

Wow! That could have had disastrous consequences. I would love to bolt mine to the new motorhome roof, but think it would be a mammoth task to drill through the roof and re fit the internal roof too look good afterwards. When I used the plastic brackets on the our panel van conversion I made sure I de greased and then keyed them thoroughly fairly course wet and dry paper, also had about 2 mm of sealant between the roof and bracket not squashed down to the roof like people make the mistake of doing. If I had a roofrack on the new Burstner they would be going on that though

I think the problems occur when everything isn't prepped properly. Have seen posts where it suggests the plastic brackets could have a release agent on them when you buy them but no idea if that's fact or not. Clean with alcohol and roughen surface is all I did with the brackets on mine. Had Shane on the roof giving them a tug periodically and so far so good. I took the pain down to Ali where the feet were going to be stuck as well and abraded.

I am certain properly applied Sikaflex on.a composite roof it a better fix than self tappers or Tek screws, the Ali isn't very thick and you can pull stuff out easy enough. Of course if you want belt and braces, add a screw to each bracket AND use Sikaflex. Of course you are adding a potential route for water ingress further down the line

 

[Mtbcol]

I'm going with proper Preparation to both roof and brackets and Sikaflex.

 

[wildebus]

Wow! That could have had disastrous consequences. I would love to bolt mine to the new motorhome roof, but think it would be a mammoth task to drill through the roof and re fit the internal roof too look good afterwards. When I used the plastic brackets on the our panel van conversion I made sure I de greased and then keyed them thoroughly fairly course wet and dry paper, also had about 2 mm of sealant between the roof and bracket not squashed down to the roof like people make the mistake of doing. If I had a roofrack on the new Burstner they would be going on that though

I always use 2mm tile spacers with the sikaflex. Allows a good consistant layer to be applied.
As you say, using the plastic mounts worth giving the underside a going over with some high abrasive sandpaper - removes any coating and gives a good key.
You can also get some Sikaflex accelerator which is worthwhile prepping the surfaces with beforehand. Bloody expensive stuff but only need it once

 

[Mtbcol]

I always use 2mm tile spacers with the sikaflex. Allows a good consistant layer to be applied.
As you say, using the plastic mounts worth giving the underside a going over with some high abrasive sandpaper - removes any coating and gives a good key.
You can also get some Sikaflex accelerator which is worthwhile prepping the surfaces with beforehand. Bloody expensive stuff but only need it once

I'll definitely get the accelerator this time, didn't know it existed

 

[Mtbcol]

It is only the front sloping part of the roof that is plastic the rest is aluminium. I bolted the panels to aluminium angle equal to the longer side of the panels and glued them to the roof with sikaflex two years ago …….still there afaik

I don't suppose you know the maximum weight we can put in the rear garage?

 

[Nabsim]

I don't suppose you know the maximum weight we can put in the rear garage?

Mine has a label saying max 150Kgs and its a 2007 van so assumed all probably have them?

Edit: Correction, my van doesn't have a garage as such it has a full height locker on one side that goes about a third of the width of the van. The other two thirds are used by the bathroom. There are extensions from the chassis that the back part of the van fits on, that's what the loading is rated for. I think I saw @Phantom post in one of his threads that they are Al-Ko