Lithium battery discharged for no reason

Don't forget though there are shunts and there are shunts. The cheaper ones are not smart enough to keep accurate SoC with low power draw, won't register it at all. Have a look at Will Prowse videos, he recently did one on Shunts and the only one that was accurate that he tested was the Victron. Of course you have to decide if you need that accuracy for the cost. Vids worth watching no matter what as you will know what to do if you go for the cheaper ones
 
I was having a quick look at the wires coming out of the victron controller were they disappeared into this Hidden compartment in the locker and found that the fuse has melted so that's why the controller isn't working i wonder what caused that?.
 
I was having a quick look at the wires coming out of the victron controller were they disappeared into this Hidden compartment in the locker and found that the fuse has melted so that's why the controller isn't working i wonder what caused that?.
Probably the wrong size diameter wiring that has been fitted, that is why I it needs ripping out and starting from scratch with the correct wires and fuses
 
Don't forget though there are shunts and there are shunts. The cheaper ones are not smart enough to keep accurate SoC with low power draw, won't register it at all. Have a look at Will Prowse videos, he recently did one on Shunts and the only one that was accurate that he tested was the Victron. Of course you have to decide if you need that accuracy for the cost. Vids worth watching no matter what as you will know what to do if you go for the cheaper ones
I will get a victron smart shunt as I've already got the app for the solar and b2b I know they are a bit more expensive but they are a trusted brand with a decent warranty plus we get discount from alpha who I bought all the other victron stuff from
 
Probably the wrong size diameter wiring that has been fitted, that is why I it needs ripping out and starting from scratch with the correct wires and fuses
Yes definitely will sort it Jeff it was probably ok for the old pwm controller but not for the victon replacement . I checked the paperwork and it was professionally fitted in 2009 so a few years ago
 
Don't forget though there are shunts and there are shunts. The cheaper ones are not smart enough to keep accurate SoC with low power draw, won't register it at all. Have a look at Will Prowse videos, he recently did one on Shunts and the only one that was accurate that he tested was the Victron. Of course you have to decide if you need that accuracy for the cost. Vids worth watching no matter what as you will know what to do if you go for the cheaper ones
I personally have a cheap Ai-Li Shunt Neil and I've never wanted anything 'better' TBH. Yep it's not perfect during layup and dosent 'See' the tiny loads but when we're using the van in every day life it's fine because it syncs to 100% every time the battery gets charged and so those tiny loads aren't significant any more. It's very accurate and of course it has a proper screen which i prefer over a phone app...the screen is a little small though and needs to be mounted at eye level really but for £25 it's great I find.
 
I was having a quick look at the wires coming out of the victron controller were they disappeared into this Hidden compartment in the locker and found that the fuse has melted so that's why the controller isn't working i wonder what caused that?.
What size fuse was it?
Is the fuse in the battery side or solar side of the SCC?
What's the size of your solar panels?
I hate to ask but what's the size of the wiring wiring between battery and SCC? (not a lot I'm guessing from what Jeffs been saying🤭 🤗 )
 
,, I personally have a cheap Ai-Li Shunt Neil and I've never wanted anything 'better' TBH. Yep it's not perfect during layup and dosent 'See' the tiny loads but when we're using the van in every day life it's fine because it syncs to 100% every time the battery gets charged and so those tiny loads aren't significant any more. It's very accurate and of course it has a proper screen which i prefer over a phone app...the screen is a little small though and needs to be mounted at eye level really but for £25 it's great I find.

Probably the wrong size diameter wiring that has been fitted, that is why I it needs ripping out and starting from scratch with the correct wires and fuses
It could be a poor quality fuse holder that has over heated and melted
 
It could be a poor quality fuse holder that has over heated and melted
Yep, or a dodgy fuse. I've seen lab tests on the fuses in those cheap multi fuse packs and some are terrible and down right dangerous and should never be trusted IMHO. Bin them and buy officially certified fuses from a reputable source such as Halfords. Trying to save literally pence isn't worth the risk.
 
I've checked the invoice for when the solar system was installed in 2009 it was 2 x 85watt panels the complete job cost the original owner £1300 . So I'm shocked that the wiring isn't up to scratch. Just shows you can't trust professionals to do a decent job.
What size fuse was it?
Is the fuse in the battery side or solar side of the SCC?
What's the size of your solar panels?
I hate to ask but what's the size of the wiring wiring between battery and SCC? (not a lot I'm guessing from what Jeffs been saying🤭 🤗 )
The fuse was on the battery side and think it was a 25 but it's that melted hard to tell
 
I've checked the invoice for when the solar system was installed in 2009 it was 2 x 85watt panels the complete job cost the original owner £1300 . So I'm shocked that the wiring isn't up to scratch. Just shows you can't trust professionals to do a decent job.

The fuse was on the battery side and think it was a 25 but it's that melted hard to tell
Well......the power from your solar panels wouldn't be sufficient to melt a 25A blade fuse and thin wiring would hinder the process not help. If you've truly melted a 25A blade fuse you have bigger, potentially dangerous issues to deal with.
Can you confirm that it was a standard blade fuse with a gap between the pins of about 9mm and what was the colour?
 
It's a standard size
 

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Yep, or a dodgy fuse. I've seen lab tests on the fuses in those cheap multi fuse packs and some are terrible and down right dangerous and should never be trusted IMHO. Bin them and buy officially certified fuses from a reputable source such as Halfords. Trying to save literally pence isn't worth the risk.
Halfords buy fuses and they as most are made in china, you just pay more.
 
Halfords buy fuses and they as most are made in china, you just pay more.
Not all fuses are equal Trev, just do a bit of research instead of detracting in your usual style mate. There's tests on the internet showing that the fuses in those packs of 100 for £5 or whatever are particularly nasty, the 5,10 and 15A tested exactly all the same and other times a 5A fuse has carried 20A for minutes, not a fraction of a second life it should.
I guess 99% of all the fuses (like most things these days) are made in China but China will be making good ones AND bad ones.
A good quality fuse often has the fuse rating clearly on the side usually in white lettering, like these from Halfords.
1000015121.png


Halfords have a responsibility under law for the stuff they sell and I don't think they'll be leaving themselves open to litigation from selling shite dangerous fuses after someone's car catches fire.
I previously purchased a cheap multi pack from eBay and threw them away after testing a few myself. They were rubbish and the value was simply embossed into the end and hard to read like this cheap eBay set of 50 for £4.99.
1000015120.png

When you say "you pay more" how much more exactly? I don't like over paying myself but It's pennies Trev and simply Not worth the risk.
 
Not all fuses are equal Trev, just do a bit of research instead of detracting in your usual style mate. There's tests on the internet showing that the fuses in those packs of 100 for £5 or whatever are particularly nasty, the 5,10 and 15A tested exactly all the same and other times a 5A fuse has carried 20A for minutes, not a fraction of a second life it should.
I guess 99% of all the fuses (like most things these days) are made in China but China will be making good ones AND bad ones.
A good quality fuse often has the fuse rating clearly on the side usually in white lettering, like these from Halfords.
View attachment 207213

Halfords have a responsibility under law for the stuff they sell and I don't think they'll be leaving themselves open to litigation from selling shite dangerous fuses after someone's car catches fire.
I previously purchased a cheap multi pack from eBay and threw them away after testing a few myself. They were rubbish and the value was simply embossed into the end and hard to read like this cheap eBay set of 50 for £4.99.
View attachment 207214
When you say "you pay more" how much more exactly? I don't like over paying myself but It's pennies Trev and simply Not worth the risk.
Problem is when we buy there is no way of knowing where and quality of fuses as shops dont let us test them, i find these days its hit and mis nomater the price and where you buy.
 
Problem is when we buy there is no way of knowing where and quality of fuses as shops dont let us test them, i find these days its hit and mis nomater the price and where you buy.
Rubbish.
Do some research and stop waffling your usual shite Trev please.
 
I've had a good look in the compartment where the fuse had burnt out with a torch and luckily no damage to any other wiring just a scorch mark on the bottom of a box that's part of the satellite system. The battery app is definitely the problem as I'm charging the battery back up after doing the test and the app says 100% but it's still being charged by the smart charger I use to charge it
 
The battery app is definitely the problem
Like I've said, if the battery BMS doesn't register a very low constant current draw then the app will sit at 100% while the battery slowly discharges and a discrepancy appears between the app and reality, mine does the same. The app doesn't go higher than 100% so it sits at 100% while the battery slowly charges up and eventually the 2 synchronise. After that you should be OK going forward while you keep hitting full charge.
You can test this out... After the battery is fully charged turn off the solar/mains chargers and run your inverter on that 1Kw load for half an hour, the app should report using around 15% so should say 85% remaining. Switch off inverter and turn on your charging again and you should see the percentage rising slowly until the App and battery hit 100% at approximately the same time. You have synced the battery and app.
 
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