How to apply engine paint?

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Deleted member 84566

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I'm new to engine work;

Photos show brake pipes that were showing corrosion so I tidied them with 800 emery paper. I've bought some engine paint spray but I'm hoping for advice on how to treat the underside of the pipes please as I cant spray. Is a little paintbrush my only option?

Thanks

20210801_164248.jpg
 
r4dent said:
If break pipes are corroded, replacement is best option.

Painting means they will look good in the accident photos.
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And means they won't be checked at mot time....due to being coated (it'll be an advisory note to the effect of being unable to check)

Frankly IF original factory steel brake lines show signs of corrosion...
Just replace/have them replaced with copper/kunifer and have peace of mind....
After all its only your own and others safety at risk.
 
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I'm pretty sure they are galvanised so rubbing them down is going to remove the protective zinc coat. I'm with Trevskoda here re waxoyl. I check mine every year and recoat with waxoyl as needed. If you don't fancy keeping a regular eye on them then replacement is for the best.

Keith
 
They definitely needed a rub so they could be properly inspected, I don't know what the lifespan of a zinc cost is but these pipes are in there 23rd year. I have made the decision to leave them untreated and therefore completely visible until someone at a garage inspects them
 
Tookey said:
They definitely needed a rub so they could be properly inspected, I don't know what the lifespan of a zinc cost is but these pipes are in there 23rd year. I have made the decision to leave them untreated and therefore completely visible until someone at a garage inspects them
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For what it's worth....
IF there is anything like pitting on them (highly likely after 23 years of exposure to road salt/etc)

Then even IF the only raise an advisory at mot time...
Replace them....

It's not an horribly expensive job....

And without being overly dramatic....
The time when you need the brakes the most, really isn't the time to discover that any pitting was deeper than anyone could see.
As you lose brake pressure on one circuit because a brake line has let go when you pretty much had both feet on the pedal trying to stop.

Brakes really really aren't something to leave to chance (an I have seen steel brake pipes let go that were passed with just an advisory on)

Your choice BUT I deff wouldn't leave things to chance and have it on my conscience.
 
mistericeman said:
For what it's worth....
IF there is anything like pitting on them (highly likely after 23 years of exposure to road salt/etc)

Then even IF the only raise an advisory at mot time...
Replace them....

It's not an horribly expensive job....

And without being overly dramatic....
The time when you need the brakes the most, really isn't the time to discover that any pitting was deeper than anyone could see.
As you lose brake pressure on one circuit because a brake line has let go when you pretty much had both feet on the pedal trying to stop.

Brakes really really aren't something to leave to chance (an I have seen steel brake pipes let go that were passed with just an advisory on)

Your choice BUT I deff wouldn't leave things to chance and have it on my conscience.
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Better photos

20210802_194249.jpg
 
mistericeman said:
For what it's worth....
IF there is anything like pitting on them (highly likely after 23 years of exposure to road salt/etc)

Then even IF the only raise an advisory at mot time...
Replace them....

It's not an horribly expensive job....

And without being overly dramatic....
The time when you need the brakes the most, really isn't the time to discover that any pitting was deeper than anyone could see.
As you lose brake pressure on one circuit because a brake line has let go when you pretty much had both feet on the pedal trying to stop.

Brakes really really aren't something to leave to chance (an I have seen steel brake pipes let go that were passed with just an advisory on)

Your choice BUT I deff wouldn't leave things to chance and have it on my conscience.
Click to expand...
So do mechanics bend replacement pipes to fit in the same manner as a plumber?
 
Tookey said:
So do mechanics bend replacement pipes to fit in the same manner as a plumber?
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YUP.....
It comes on a roll and is pretty easy to bend by hand (even kunifer)
I always use copper (folks say it can fracture if it work hardens... But isn't a problem as long as its supported/clipped correctly....
And bearing in mind I work with copper fridge pipe day in and day out I've never had a line fracture that HAS been supported properly.
Kunifer is harder to for flares on BUT not an issue with proper flaring kit (I use a sykes pikavant Pro one)

This picture would concern me...

Screenshot_20210802-195203_Chrome.jpg


As their is obvious wasting on side of it (let alone the possibility of what's going on behind it)
 
I have had a pipe burst when applying the brakes approaching a roundabout in my pickup (I'm not the slowest of drivers) and is not an enjoyable experience, luckily I managed to use the handbrake to avoid any collision. The brake pipe that burst was out of sight and easily missed during a mot.
 
I would definitely replace them. As others have said it not the bits you can see but the bits you can’t. The pitting is deeper than you think and it only takes a pin hole for you to lose your brakes. 23years is a long time in brake pipe life. I had to replace most of the pipes on my pickup 2years ago and it’s a 2011. It’s not something you should be doing yourself and not overly expensive for a garage to do.
 
mistericeman said:
YUP.....
It comes on a roll and is pretty easy to bend by hand (even kunifer)
I always use copper (folks say it can fracture if it work hardens... But isn't a problem as long as its supported/clipped correctly....
And bearing in mind I work with copper fridge pipe day in and day out I've never had a line fracture that HAS been supported properly.
Kunifer is harder to for flares on BUT not an issue with proper flaring kit (I use a sykes pikavant Pro one)

This picture would concern me...

View attachment 100710

As their is obvious wasting on side of it (let alone the possibility of what's going on behind it)
Click to expand...
Thank you for taking your time to reply, its appreciated especially considering the subject
 
Scotia said:
I have had a pipe burst when applying the brakes approaching a roundabout in my pickup (I'm not the slowest of drivers) and is not an enjoyable experience, luckily I managed to use the handbrake to avoid any collision. The brake pipe that burst was out of sight and easily missed during a mot.
Click to expand...
All brakes in the last 40 years are duel line, so if a pipe busts the either you will have front or rears, old skoda 130 and 136 coup had twin cross over brakes, two cyl front and one rears doubled on 4 pot calipers, very few vans have crossover but all duel line which will slow you down.
 
trevskoda said:
All brakes in the last 40 years are duel line, so if a pipe busts the either you will have front or rears, old skoda 130 and 136 coup had twin cross over brakes, two cyl front and one rears doubled on 4 pot calipers, very few vans have crossover but all duel line which will slow you down.
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Usually 60/40 ish split front to rear....

And USUALLY the front that will go due to greater effort....

Stopping 3.5 ton vehicle in an emergency using just the rears ain't my idea of fun let alone IF its a diagonal split system so only one front and one rear.

Brake fail/suspension/steering component fail often crosses my mind as I travel....
Unfortunately usually on the hilly bits
 
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