Hab12v

Many factory built vans i have looked at are a mess with electrics and in my eyes very poor build quality, as for anything built by ford, well after 40 odd years working on cars i wont coment.
I am hoping that Commercial Fords are better built than Ford cars, also having worked on good cars and Fords since 1970. Did I mention the deliberate design feature of current Transits where rain water is deliberately poured from the windscreen trough directly on to a multi pin electrical connector and on to the engine ECU? A bit of washing machine drain hose soon sorts that problem
 

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@Drover I've just read your bit about injectors and the Panther engine. I have no idea if mine is a Panther but the vehicle is an early 2022 with a 1995cc engine (or is it 1998) and 170HP. Does that mean I should be looking for trouble, and if so what? I am used to diesels, having run them and worked on them since about 1969 - I am no expert except on old London FX4 Taxi diesels and the more modern (1989 - 1993) mercedes cars. If my Transit is one of the susceptible ones how can I tell if it is? Has Ford issued some sort of fix including a new design of injectors, and presumably if they acknowledge a fault then the current models would have the new design? or is that too much to hope?
 
How do you manage in the winter with no alternator battery charging? EHU every day? (I can't imagine the solar will put enough charge in?)
My 180w solar panel is enough to charge my two 90ah leisure batteries and the starting battery. I leave the wardrobe led on so as to cycle with a little discharge. My solar controller prevents any overcharging and switches on & off as neccesary
 
@Drover I've just read your bit about injectors and the Panther engine. I have no idea if mine is a Panther but the vehicle is an early 2022 with a 1995cc engine (or is it 1998) and 170HP. Does that mean I should be looking for trouble, and if so what? I am used to diesels, having run them and worked on them since about 1969 - I am no expert except on old London FX4 Taxi diesels and the more modern (1989 - 1993) mercedes cars. If my Transit is one of the susceptible ones how can I tell if it is? Has Ford issued some sort of fix including a new design of injectors, and presumably if they acknowledge a fault then the current models would have the new design? or is that too much to hope?
Yours at that age will be a panther. They had a faulty batch of injectors a while back. Putting your number into fords data base should give you info .some got changed. Panther has been out since 2016 .son in law has one since then and has had no problems with it.
The water problem you have cured helps as the injectors were rusting in and giving big problems.
Lots have done this mod with one member making and selling a tray to catch and disperse the water..
Other faults were the floor not being sealed to the walls around the garage door ending up with damp ingress...can't remember the model though
I was thinking of changing ours to a newish model but the prices are out of my reach at present...I would be going for a ford over the fiat as top of windscreen is a bit low with the swivel seats..
 
My 180w solar panel is enough to charge my two 90ah leisure batteries and the starting battery. I leave the wardrobe led on so as to cycle with a little discharge. My solar controller prevents any overcharging and switches on & off as neccesary
No need to leave a light on to cycle, you control unit should do that, in winter there is about 3/6 weeks the solar panels wont bring the batts up to speed, a drive with the altanator charge will bring them up, or a on board smart charger if plugged in.
 
No need to leave a light on to cycle, you control unit should do that, in winter there is about 3/6 weeks the solar panels wont bring the batts up to speed, a drive with the altanator charge will bring them up, or a on board smart charger if plugged in.
I thought it would but I read somewhere a small load would help. I know the controllers are good at looking after batteries & not over charging or letting them run too low. My van often gets left after the MoT in late Nov until Feb or March without being started, or run a few miles. So far no problems for past 3 years.
 
I thought it would but I read somewhere a small load would help. I know the controllers are good at looking after batteries & not over charging or letting them run too low. My van often gets left after the MoT in late Nov until Feb or March without being started, or run a few miles. So far no problems for past 3 years.
Leaving standing is bad for hydrolic brake cylinders esp the rears, best to take a small fast run of say 30/40 miles at least once a week to clean the oil and wash the inside of the engine, also splashes g box bearings etc.
 
........ I leave the wardrobe led on so as to cycle with a little discharge. My solar controller prevents any overcharging and switches on & off as neccesary
What wardrobe led is that Eric? I bought a chausson with a peculiar switch with a led in the wardrobe and a letter from the original dealer saying it must be switched off when driving. Giving credit where it may not be due I assumed this is an after market mod, I couldn't imagine a main stream manufacturer expecting a user to remember to switch it off every time they went anywhere. I binned the switch and substituted a relay.
 
What wardrobe led is that Eric? I bought a chausson with a peculiar switch with a led in the wardrobe and a letter from the original dealer saying it must be switched off when driving. Giving credit where it may not be due I assumed this is an after market mod, I couldn't imagine a main stream manufacturer expecting a user to remember to switch it off every time they went anywhere. I binned the switch and substituted a relay.
Why a relay for such a small current draw, notrequired for led bulbs.
 
I turn it on before we leave home and it stays on till we get back. Very useful in cold weather as we have the Truma heating on as well for heating and hot water. We also have collision sensor on the gas regulator and bottles have blow out protection.
 
Why a relay for such a small current draw, notrequired for led bulbs.
This relay is to break the circuit from solar panels to batteries, not for LEDs. The original dealer gave no explanation for the switch to the first purchaser that I can find, and the electrician at the dealer I bought it from said he can't see any need for a switch to do this. I can only think that the original dealer must have had a bit of bother with vehicle electrics in the past, maybe when 'smart' alternators came out, without b-b chargers for some reason.

Did someone say I would need something in the electric bed circuit to stop arcing at the switch?
 
This relay is to break the circuit from solar panels to batteries, not for LEDs. The original dealer gave no explanation for the switch to the first purchaser that I can find, and the electrician at the dealer I bought it from said he can't see any need for a switch to do this. I can only think that the original dealer must have had a bit of bother with vehicle electrics in the past, maybe when 'smart' alternators came out, without b-b chargers for some reason.

Did someone say I would need something in the electric bed circuit to stop arcing at the switch?
You dont require it at all ,leave connected 24/7 as they are ment to be, a relay is for a high current device which a small switch with light contacts cannot handle, im sure you know this anyway.
I have a manuel switch and 200amp relay to connect in my les batts after i start the engine, and here is why, if you have auto relay the alt is on high load first start which in turn can break the fan belt or wear it down fast, so i start up and increase revs for a few mins before flicking in the les batts, the belt and alt wont slip or drag at high speed, it also lets me join up all batts should the starter bat be down, no jump leads required.
 
I was puzzled about the letter from the original dealer to the first purchaser. I couldn't imagine a mainstream motorhome manufacturer, even if they are French, making something that has to be switched every time the engine is turned on. Anyway it's in now, the relay contact resistance is low so I'll leave it.
 
I hadn't even consider anyone would ever turn it off except perhaps when resting on the drive or in storage. I suppose it's a coachbuilt thing!
Mines on 24X7 in my self build and has been for 5 years now.

I do use the D+ signal though
That operates the B2B, step alarm, closes the satellite dish if I forget, and switches the scene lights over to act as additional reversing lights.
 

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