Tyre pressure monitoring system

I had the cheap ones, and they worked okay. But a couple seized onto the tyre valve and had to be carefully cut off. So not using them now.
Little tip on if the valve cap or sensor gets seized on a valve stem ... a Dremel is perfect for removing.
You use the Dremel to make a little slot indent on the cap - can do this on the top or side. Only needs to be around a mm or so deep. And then use a slotted screwdriver to put in the cut and twist and it will open up and free itself off the valve thread.
 
Are these the ones that work from the dust cap replacement?

While 80psi is recommended by van manufacturers, it might be worth finding out what tyre manufacturers recommend.
Mine were 80psi all round, recent 4 new boots, and 65 rears and 55 fronts. Michelin cross climate campers. They do charts for weight and pressure as I'm sure other manufacturers will.
I know, reopening an old can of worms.
I run the Michelin Agilis Winter Tyres at 75psi rears and 65psi fronts with 2000kg 1650kg axle limits respectively and 3500kg overall weight

Steve
 
Had them sorted last year, said nothing wrong, i think its bead leak, i used to fit tyres for a living many moons back.
I had a very slow pressure loss on one of my car tyres and it was due to a loss around the bead. No identifiable reason why - I kinda guess must have been a pothole disturbed the tyre on the rim slightly?
Had it sorted, but found there was still a slight loss. Tyre place took it off and redid and been fine since (fixed in August).
 
Reduces the chance of getting a load in the eye I guess.


Hence you should have went down to 65 cold. :unsure:
Tried that and it handled like a bag of shyte, both rear tyres had excessive wear on outside and inside edges and wandered all over the place.

Put them back up to 80 p.s.i. and it drove really well. Perfectly even wear right across the width of the tread.
 
I have very slow leaks on all tyres through the bead with alloy rims. One is bad enough to require topping up every trip (about once per month). When I next get the tyres changed I will ask them to make sure of a good layer of sealant around the rims.
When I bought my TPS(about 7 years ago) I needed to choose between types
having the sensors in the dust caps or in the base of the valve stem. I had reservations about relying on the dust cap types as they depress the valve meaning that the seal is totally dependent on the dust cap so I went for the replacement valve stem type. These use much bigger batteries but require tyre removal for battery replacement. So far it looks like the tyres will need replacement before battery replacement so will just change the batteries at the same time as the tyres.

Having a TPS helps with insurance quotes so fitting a TPS is a no brainier.
 
I have very slow leaks on all tyres through the bead with alloy rims. One is bad enough to require topping up every trip (about once per month). When I next get the tyres changed I will ask them to make sure of a good layer of sealant around the rims.
When I bought my TPS(about 7 years ago) I needed to choose between types
having the sensors in the dust caps or in the base of the valve stem. I had reservations about relying on the dust cap types as they depress the valve meaning that the seal is totally dependent on the dust cap so I went for the replacement valve stem type. These use much bigger batteries but require tyre removal for battery replacement. So far it looks like the tyres will need replacement before battery replacement so will just change the batteries at the same time as the tyres.

Having a TPS helps with insurance quotes so fitting a TPS is a no brainier.
I've never been asked on insurance proposals about TPMS ...

Steve
 
After my blowout in France last October I have fitted the Tyrepal system, I tried it on the way to the Goosnargh rally in November and it seems to work fine, it even tells you the temperature of each tyre, so overall it seems ok the big test will be when we head through Europe south 🤔
 
On at least two company's quote forms I have seen boxes to tick to confirm that I have a TPS. They would only bother to include these boxes if they didn't make a difference to quotes.
 
I had some really simple ones years ago on my driving school cars, they replaced the dust cap and if they were showing green all was fine, if I got a slow leak they changed to red, so I could see at a glance every morning if there was a problem. Worked very well. No electrics to go wrong.
 
I had some really simple ones years ago on my driving school cars, they replaced the dust cap and if they were showing green all was fine, if I got a slow leak they changed to red, so I could see at a glance every morning if there was a problem. Worked very well. No electrics to go wrong.
Hard to see from the cockpit unless you have a neck like a turkey. 😂
 
I had some really simple ones years ago on my driving school cars, they replaced the dust cap and if they were showing green all was fine, if I got a slow leak they changed to red, so I could see at a glance every morning if there was a problem. Worked very well. No electrics to go wrong.
One of the key benefits of TPMS - and especially aftermarket TPMS - is you get information while you are driving. Very few punctures occur before you get in the car or after you get out the car. Using those red/black indications is indicators too late.
 
Another vote for TyrePal, as recommended to me by @Canalsman. As stated by @wildebus and apparent from others' feedback, including mention of temperatures indicating problems with binding brakes, a system with readouts visible when driving is what is required for peace of mind and potential significant savings due to avoiding major damage.
 
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