winterising

Hi I dont know is the answer but i have three ford transit's one of which is a 2004 ex TNT van and I got it with 132,000 on the clock, used two stroke oil as recommended by loads of people on the Fordtransitforum site and this van has now done 226,000 and still runs like a dream ,my camper is also a 2004 only 67,000 on and my laterest one is a 2008 mk7 with 112,000.

I suggest you look on the ford forum site and get answers from people on there, but im happy to continue using it in my vans.

tranivanman

Hi Not trying to dis what you think. its just the fact that the turbo is driven by exhaust gasses and lubricated by engine oil. Most diesel engine will do 500k miles if oil is changed regularly. Putting two stroke oil in the tank will help keep the upper cylinder clean but will not find its way into the turbo until it is fully burned, turned into exhaust gas and therefore having no effect on turbo life. I'm not sure what effect it will have on particulate count at MOT time?
 
Certainly a lot of people add two stroke oil, but I thought it was to help the high pressure injector pumps cope with the reduced lubricity of the low sulphur fuel.

Guess it is the common grass-is-greener syndrome that afflicts all of us from time to time, but after yesterday's 100F day here, I'd be quite happy to swap it for some freezing weather - for a day or two anyway.

Pretty easy to get caught out with a cold snap. I ended up with my grey tank frozen solid after a freeze overnight in Germany and had to pour lots of salt down the drains to get it flowing again. Also had the suction line to the pump freeze where it was touching the uninsulated fibreglass wheel arch. Continuing cold weather meant I had to dismantle half the kitchen to get access to it.

Hope you all get out of it without damage to your water systems.
 
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Like obanboy66 I also use lists on the iPhone. Wife mocks and laughs but hey it works, keep life easy.
 
Like obanboy66 I also use lists on the iPhone. Wife mocks and laughs but hey it works, keep life easy.

We have a list that lives on the gearstick. It's what not to forget before we drive away, doors shut, vents closed, fridge locked, gas off etc. The peg that goes on the water boiler dump switch also gets clipped to the when we come home & drain everything down.

Morgan The Moon said the list made us look senile. :sad:
 
Update:
I haven't filled it up again, yet. But the water pump was still working after I got it to thaw out.
I did go out in it last week for an over nighter and had a 6Ltr dromedry bag full of water.
I woke up in the morning in an isolated spot and could hear someone wheel spinning and I though 'bloody boyracers'.
when I lifted the blinds I realised why.
There was about 8cm of snow.
The car had got stuck, they couldn't get it up the steep road due to the ice, and they finally abandoned it.
I thought I was stranded too, so my first job was to get all the snow off my solar panels, so I could keep the fan on my diesel heater going.

It was scary for a while, because I didn't know how long I was going to be stuck and only the 6Lts of water and not much food !

It certainly was an adventure !
 
I always add 300ml of two stroke oil to a full tank of diesel, even in summer as it helps lubricate the turbo? How's that work then??

If you have an older engine, the makeup of diesel fuel has changed since it was designed and it has less lubricating properties. 2 Stroke engine oil helps to lubricate the injector pump etc. I used to do this on a 2002 Ducato 2.8 jtd. If you have a google, there is plenty of info on the net. Whether or not you believe this is not important, you asked a question and I gave an answer. :)
 
I read a bit about 2 stroke oil and I think they were suggesting that it burnt cleaner and lubricated the pump better but I cannot see it myself. Diesel oil has lost o a lot of sulphur which was a lubricant but does other bad things instead. What it seems does happen to turbos is that they are subject to an oil film from the breather which goes through the turbo , intercoolers and the EGR making a sticky goo that will rot out the rubber intake hoses and when combined with the exhaust particles from the EGR make a load of nasty stick black sXXt in the manifold. The breather HAS to be before the turbo because otherwise the positive pressure would go to the crankcase as well causing seals to leak.
 
I have just put on the airtronic heater and eventually managed to drain the system. I have; taken the shower head off; removed the drainage plug on the carver water heater; opened all the taps.
Hopefully, I haven't stuffed up the system. Only time will tell.

When I had my Autocruise, I had little icicles coming out of both my taps, on more than one occasion, I opened the taps (with the water pump off) and left it. Thank fully, no damage each time. The water heater has already dumped it's water when the temperature dropped, so no damage there either.
With my Eura Mobil, I have left the water in the tank and taps closed. If I remember, I keep the pump off and taps open.
 
When I had my Autocruise, I had little icicles coming out of both my taps, on more than one occasion, I opened the taps (with the water pump off) and left it. Thank fully, no damage each time. The water heater has already dumped it's water when the temperature dropped, so no damage there either.
With my Eura Mobil, I have left the water in the tank and taps closed. If I remember, I keep the pump off and taps open.

I haven't filled it up again, so I don't know if I've gotten away with it yet. (leaks in the pipes)
But my pump is fine.
I've used the MH twice over nighting with just a dromedry bag.
I'm using it again sat, and i think i'll do the same again, in case we get another cold snap.
The shower head is removed and the drain plug stowed away.

I'll find out in feb, if I have a problem. I'm going away for 2 weeks.
 
Update:
I haven't filled it up again, yet. But the water pump was still working after I got it to thaw out.
I did go out in it last week for an over nighter and had a 6Ltr dromedry bag full of water.
I woke up in the morning in an isolated spot and could hear someone wheel spinning and I though 'bloody boyracers'.
when I lifted the blinds I realised why.
There was about 8cm of snow.
The car had got stuck, they couldn't get it up the steep road due to the ice, and they finally abandoned it.
I thought I was stranded too, so my first job was to get all the snow off my solar panels, so I could keep the fan on my diesel heater going.

It was scary for a while, because I didn't know how long I was going to be stuck and only the 6Lts of water and not much food !

It certainly was an adventure !



ok - how did you do that ? thanks
 
Hi delicagirl
I used my bunk ladder with lots of padding against the MH and an extendible brush I keep in the van.
 
I read a bit about 2 stroke oil and I think they were suggesting that it burnt cleaner and lubricated the pump better but I cannot see it myself. Diesel oil has lost o a lot of sulphur which was a lubricant but does other bad things instead. What it seems does happen to turbos is that they are subject to an oil film from the breather which goes through the turbo , intercoolers and the EGR making a sticky goo that will rot out the rubber intake hoses and when combined with the exhaust particles from the EGR make a load of nasty stick black sXXt in the manifold. The breather HAS to be before the turbo because otherwise the positive pressure would go to the crankcase as well causing seals to leak.

.
hi - may I sidetrack you here a little please since you seem to know a lot ? I have a 1993 2.5 diesel Mitusibishi base van. its going in for its first full service in a few weeks. But when i start it up first thing in the morning a lot of nasty black smoke comes out of the engine - and it eventually settles down and the black smoke stops. but that does not seem to happen during the rest of the days motoring. My garage is hopeful that the service/oil change/new igniters/filters etc will stop that.... do you think that's right ? It runs great - although it is a bit thirsty at speeds of over 50mph. Thank you (I am also having the timing belt/chain and water pump changed at the same time)
 
Black smoke on cold start suggests to me that this van might have a simple over-fuel system to aid cold start.

A bit like the choke on a car (which richens the fuel air mixture by restricting the air intake) some diesels used to add extra fuel to achieve the same effect.

So it is possible that the black smoke on startup is just a quirk not a fault as such.

This is just a guess mind. If your van uses glow plugs (has a pre-heat light that comes up on the dash and you turn to srart after it goes out) then I'm probably wrong.

Black smoke does tend to suggest over fuelling on start up to me though! If you have to floor the throttle to get the motor to catch this would account for it too (and suggest something isnt quite 100%).

Disclaimer: This is just an amateur opinion though!

G.
 
full timing

I got a trigano tribute 2003 model...............I am full timing in bristol........so far been down to -5C without any problems.........I use additional camping gaz bluet heaters....... water tank and everything is on board so nothing freezes except windscreen so I park where the screen faces the sun by 0915 ice is gone and can drive away if needed...........the newer models with outboard water tanks will be crap and freeze up........steve bristol
 
the one really irritating thing that froze in December when i was in Scotland was the lock to the gas cupboard - it did not unfreeze itself till well after lunch... fortunately I had not switched the gas off the night before... otherwise I would have been WELL cold thirsty and hungry.

I did recall at that point a time 20 years ago when some really helpful coppers assisted me in a deep blizzard by peeing on the door lock of my parked-up frozen VW beetle to get me back inside my car.... over and above the call of duty that was....
 
Black smoke on cold start suggests to me that this van might have a simple over-fuel system to aid cold start.

A bit like the choke on a car (which richens the fuel air mixture by restricting the air intake) some diesels used to add extra fuel to achieve the same effect.

So it is possible that the black smoke on startup is just a quirk not a fault as such.

This is just a guess mind. If your van uses glow plugs (has a pre-heat light that comes up on the dash and you turn to srart after it goes out) then I'm probably wrong.

Black smoke does tend to suggest over fuelling on start up to me though! If you have to floor the throttle to get the motor to catch this would account for it too (and suggest something isnt quite 100%).

Disclaimer: This is just an amateur opinion though!

G.

Thanks... the van was imported from Japan last spring. It does indeed have glow plugs and these will be replaced when I service it. I don't have to floor it to get the motor to catch, as it starts up terribly quickly once I have given the glow plugs a second go at getting warmer (advised by a mechanic I know)

It does not have any sort of choke.
 
.
hi - may I sidetrack you here a little please since you seem to know a lot ? I have a 1993 2.5 diesel Mitusibishi base van. its going in for its first full service in a few weeks. But when i start it up first thing in the morning a lot of nasty black smoke comes out of the engine - and it eventually settles down and the black smoke stops. but that does not seem to happen during the rest of the days motoring. My garage is hopeful that the service/oil change/new igniters/filters etc will stop that.... do you think that's right ? It runs great - although it is a bit thirsty at speeds of over 50mph. Thank you (I am also having the timing belt/chain and water pump changed at the same time)

I'd suggest that a service wont change the black start thing - unless new glow plugs make the difference.

Overall the Mitsubishi 2.5 is I think a pretty reliable thing. I have heard that theg dont like overheating, and that this can occur, and then crack the cyl head (this has occurred with plenty of Shoguns and 4x4 variants if you google about). Not good, and not cheap!
I wouldnt get paranoid, but I do think having a new waterpump is a good idea, maybe a new thermostat while you are at it?
Changing the engine coolant religiously as required by the schedule (or every year if you can run to it) is probably a good idea too.
Other than that keep a good eye on the temp gauge, and if it starts to overheat STOP - dont risk it as reports suggest this engine wont stand o/heating like some will.

This is all from memory n research when I was looking for a van (plan was for a Toyota Hiace 2.5L, and I actually ended up with my LDV with a Tranny 2.5Di - a bit agricultural but lovely and basic, no turbo, no glow plugs, no electronic OTT-ness), not direct experience. But there is lots of info on the interweb.

G.
 
I believe that if you leave blinds down for a while, they will lose their tension and you will have to rewind them.
Never heard this before, always keep ours down when parked at home, never had any problems in 7+ years.


Does everyone drain their systems even if it's inboard?

I always do in the cold weather with this van (Swift Sundance) due to being caught out when it got colder than expected and the taps froze causing a leak, was quoted £70 for a new tap, was told they didn't supply just the tiny part needed to repair, but managed to sort it.
Did get caught out at Ribblehead last March? when it dropped to -7? water froze, gas wouldn't work, serves us right for sitting round a campfire with Annie and the others til early hours getting drunk, :wacko: although it didn't cause any problems that time.
 
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I'd suggest that a service wont change the black start thing - unless new glow plugs make the difference.

Overall the Mitsubishi 2.5 is I think a pretty reliable thing. I have heard that theg dont like overheating, and that this can occur, and then crack the cyl head (this has occurred with plenty of Shoguns and 4x4 variants if you google about). Not good, and not cheap!
I wouldnt get paranoid, but I do think having a new waterpump is a good idea, maybe a new thermostat while you are at it?
Changing the engine coolant religiously as required by the schedule (or every year if you can run to it) is probably a good idea too.
Other than that keep a good eye on the temp gauge, and if it starts to overheat STOP - dont risk it as reports suggest this engine wont stand o/heating like some will.

This is all from memory n research when I was looking for a van (plan was for a Toyota Hiace 2.5L, and I actually ended up with my LDV with a Tranny 2.5Di - a bit agricultural but lovely and basic, no turbo, no glow plugs, no electronic OTT-ness), not direct experience. But there is lots of info on the interweb.

G.

thank you - I am having a new timing chain/belt and water pump fitted along with the service next month - I will add a new 'stat onto the list as well. I never drink (drink ?????? - how in gods name does the spell checker on this site work))) DRIVE any vehicle if the temperature gauge gets close to the red.... its going red for a reason !! my engine has done less than 90k kilometres... so still a lot of life left in the old girl - a bit like my good self.....:wacko:
 
I am just lazy and decadent. I open the cupboards next to my tanks and just programme the heater to come on a couple of times during the night.
 

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