Solar panel on the bonnet

Ok yes pedestrian and cycle impact occured to me. I would not know how to deal with that, although a thin flexible (soft) component does not seem worse than a crumple zone bonnet, perhaps the front fixings need thinking about? I must check with my insurance company.
 
Derekoak said:
Ok yes pedestrian and cycle impact occured to me. I would not know how to deal with that, although a thin flexible (soft) component does not seem worse than a crumple zone bonnet, perhaps the front fixings need thinking about? I must check with my insurance company.
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I suspect that in reality it would make little real life difference....

The issue could be that there will be little information regarding the modification out there AND insurance companies don't like unquantifiable risks
 
Concerning pedestrian impact some 4x4 have bull bars on the front. I do not think there is a law that cars should be soft at the front?
 
AFAIK bull bars require type approval, having sharp edges is a MOT failure.
 
Derekoak said:
Concerning pedestrian impact some 4x4 have bull bars on the front. I do not think there is a law that cars should be soft at the front?
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AFAICR manufacturer fitted bull bars are required to be none injuring to pedestrians....
Fitting aftearket 'hard' bull bars isn't illegal in itself...

HOWEVER hitting a pedestrian with a 'hard' (or for that matter any after market items) bull bar that you haven't disclosed fully to your insurance company can end in a world of pain for the insured....

I'm not saying don't do it.... I'm just saying only your insurance company can decide whether or not they are OK with it.
 
Screenshot_20201112-154814_Chrome.jpg

From the. Gov site....
 
Derekoak said:
I have a microcamper based on a doblo xl. It has 160 w semi flexible solar on the roof. That is ok in summer without driving for our use but with lower sun we must drive every day. The only large space left is the bonnet, due to a midi skylight. I think I could fit a 120w semiflexible on the bonnet, with a rear connection box cut into the bonnet, curved for and aft to the bonnet and fitted on strips of fore and aft putty, sides with stixall, that would allow some back ventilation. This is how the roof panels have been fitted.
I have never seen this done. Is there a problem that I cannot forsee? Heat from the engine greater than Spanish summer sun?
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Eco Worthy do a folding 120 w panel with controller and cables that have clips for the battery terminals. It's in canvas case with a pocket for the cables.

I've just bought one but haven't used it yet so can't offer an opinion. I got it from Amazon although I think it's available elsewhere.
 
I guess it's so easy to get hung up with going down the larger solar route in winter, but I'm just not convinced that it's the best way.
For example: My 120w solar panel is curently making an average of 4.16Ah/day but a 25 minute drive (or just idling the engine) would make the same. And fitting a 30A B2B unit would make the same in less than 8 1/2 minutes, and pro rata. So why over obsess about solar in winter? If it serves you right in summer when it's optimal then surely there are more feasible ways to create power in winter. Just my own conclusion, but each to their own! 🍻
 
Derekoak said:
Ok yes pedestrian and cycle impact occured to me. I would not know how to deal with that, although a thin flexible (soft) component does not seem worse than a crumple zone bonnet, perhaps the front fixings need thinking about? I must check with my insurance company.
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Could the clue be what you have posted, thin flexible (soft) stay on a bonnet when driving at whatever speed, and not get damaged, good luck and keep us posted
 
Would of thought the best option would be roofrack bars with a sliding mechanism for panel and maybe a way to adjust solar panel angle couple of hinges maybe - not going to need roof vent open while driving and it wont matter if you covered part of the panel you already have if you are travelling - it would be out the way and just slid and adjusted to position you wanted when parked up
 
Phantom said:
I guess it's so easy to get hung up with going down the larger solar route in winter, but I'm just not convinced that it's the best way.
For example: My 120w solar panel is curently making an average of 4.16Ah/day but a 25 minute drive (or just idling the engine) would make the same. And fitting a 30A B2B unit would make the same in less than 8 1/2 minutes, and pro rata. So why over obsess about solar in winter? If it serves you right in summer when it's optimal then surely there are more feasible ways to create power in winter. Just my own conclusion, but each to their own! 🍻
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You are right. But it so much depends on who's winter and what your habits are. We are in Valencia area. If we travel a small distance every day as we usually do, there would probably be no problem. With Covid restrictions were are keeping out of the way, extending our time between shops, and staying put in remote places away from buildings and people, more. So the problem. I think the first step is a lithium battery. As you say with our 30 amp b2b and a lithium battery the drive or idle time should be reduced by a lot for 2 reasons I think. First the charging efficiency will work for the alternator like it does for solar and 2nd lithium does not need hardly any absorption phase, so if the lithium setting is efficient it should charge at near maximum for much longer? I hope if that is wrong someone will tell me. like I was thinking beyond that in case more was needed. Basically the fridge must be kept running, more important as we are shopping less frequently.
 
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My uninformed view is that there must be better solutions.
You have suggested Lithium battery. Yes
another portable outside panel woud be cheap and you could position it and angle it for maximim benefit
Dare I suggest a Genny ?
 
Markd said:
Got to think that B2B and running the engine is most sensible for winter if summer is ok.
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Running your engine on idle just to charge batteries is environmentally unfriendly. Bad for your engine, and unpleasant for anyone around you.
That said if you are charging lithium batteries, they pull a high current until nearly fully charged. So may not need hours of running. Lead acid batteries demand drops of the more they are charged, hence the long absorption stage.
In an emergency I would do this, but not as common practice.
 
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