Security Locks

With key in unlock position, and pulling plunger down simultaneously try moving the D bar vigorously backwards and forwards for a minute or two squirt WD40 into every part that moves.Tap/hit the lock a few times with rubber mallet or piece of wood or hammer on piece of wood so as not to damage lock.
 
Byronic said:
With key in unlock position, and pulling plunger down simultaneously try moving the D bar vigorously backwards and forwards for a minute or two squirt WD40 into every part that moves.Tap/hit the lock a few times with rubber mallet or piece of wood or hammer on piece of wood so as not to damage lock.
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I have tried everything you have suggest. I think the levers within the lock do not release the lock when I turn the key. Looks like an angle grinder to remove the bar and then replace with a complete new one, unless, some kind soul has an idea. Thanks for your help Byronic.
 
sounds like a lock barrel problem,one last thing i would try before angle grinding is drilling the barrel with cobalt drill bits keeping as central as poss.if you can destroy the barrel you may be able to see the problem.i think there is some kind of metal shape at the back of the barrel thar releases the plunger and this could have sheared.start with a 8mm bit and work up.if you can do it then putting in a new barrel will be ok
 
Have you tried hitting the plunger upwards whilst pulling/pushing the D handle?
 
This advise may be a little too late to solve your problem but may help others in future as grease and wd40 may have caused more problems than solving.
I am sure Locksmiths use a dry powder, chalk etc to loosen off seized locks as grease oil substances attract minute particles that may stick to lever systems.
Hope this helps.
 
David & Ann said:
I have a problem trying to open the lock as shown in the picture attached. The key turns in the lock and unlock position easily. The plunger/lever under the lock when pulled down should release the "D" shaped bar to move. The plunger/lever will not budge. My thoughts are: Plunger/lever stuck due to excessive salt errosion (live by the sea) Or the lock cylinder is not unlocking even though the key turns in lock/unlock position. I would appreciate your advice and thoughts as to how to get the lock or plunger/lever to move so I can get the front door open.☺☺ I have tried WD40 and other lubricants. No success.


Swinglockformaindoor.jpg
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I havent read all the way through the posts
WD40 solved mine
exactly the same thing
just kept spraying it
the amount of rust that eventually trickled out
It's fine now
It had just never been oiled
 
Hi
Unfortunatly there were a batch of these security locks which had this problem where the plunger was siezing
in the lock assembly.
If the unit is still under warranty and you had it fitted by a dealer we would suggest that you return it to them
for a direct replacement or if the lock is now out of its warranty what you must do is to carefully lever the plunger down
so that the unit can be removed from the van.
Once you have the lock off you can start removing all the parts and lubricate where necessary.
It is vital that these type security devices are regulary lubricated.
If you need any more help on this please feel free to contact me.

Glenn Harris Workshop Manager
 
JohnsCrossMotorHomes said:
Hi
Unfortunatly there were a batch of these security locks which had this problem where the plunger was siezing
in the lock assembly.
If the unit is still under warranty and you had it fitted by a dealer we would suggest that you return it to them
for a direct replacement or if the lock is now out of its warranty what you must do is to carefully lever the plunger down
so that the unit can be removed from the van.
Once you have the lock off you can start removing all the parts and lubricate where necessary.
It is vital that these type security devices are regulary lubricated.
If you need any more help on this please feel free to contact me.

Glenn Harris Workshop Manager
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Thank you Glen for your advice.
 
I'm still trying to do a bit of lateral thinking here. Rather than ruining the thing with angle grinders etc. would it not be cheaper to find some way of breaking in through a habitation window, thus allowing a child or other small person to be able to enter the 'van, unlock the deadlocks and allow you to gain entry? You could then unscrew the handle from inside and take it to a locksmith or wherever you bought it from. I was always under the impression that the typical plastic motorhome window is a very weak point, which is why I use Milenco alarms on mine.
 
David, what about removing the small window (quarterlight) on the drivers door.
Can you then reach the dead locks?
One of the trucks that I drove was entered this way.
 
***** said:
David, what about removing the small window (quarterlight) on the drivers door.
Can you then reach the dead locks?
One of the trucks that I drove was entered this way.
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Hi Graham, How are you? Have not seen you around as often as in the past. Hope all is well with you. Thought of the quater light. I don't think my arms are as long as an Orangotang☺ I don't want to do any damage. So I have ordered a new Fiamma security 46 lock which should be here tomorrow by FedEx. I will be cutting the "D" shape bar off with an angle grinder, which will then get me into the MH. Unbolt the old bits and fit the new one in. Spoke with Hamburg, Germany where I bought and had it fitted. Will get a refund, provided the Lock mechanicism is to fault. I agreed and they authorised me to do the cut off of the "D" bar. Thanks for your suggestion.
 
before you start drop a piece of wet fabric down behind the board or what ever you are using just in case a hot spark drop on paint work thought about this the other day ok i know it a bit of faff but the paint and a bucket of water to cool it down after cutting it part way to stop heat tranfer into body work
 
oldish hippy said:
before you start drop a piece of wet fabric down behind the board or what ever you are using just in case a hot spark drop on paint work thought about this the other day ok i know it a bit of faff but the paint and a bucket of water to cool it down after cutting it part way to stop heat tranfer into body work
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Thanks for the advice. Tomorrow is execution day for the "D" bar. All preperations are in place, including your wet fabric suggestion.☺☺
 
As long as it's only the end of the BLANKET I'm supposed to be holding, I might be up for it!!! :dance:

KP x x
 
kernowprickles said:
As long as it's only the end of the BLANKET I'm supposed to be holding, I might be up for it!!! :dance:

KP x x
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Thank you kindly for the offer. You are a true Wild Camper. I am always down your way at Aldi's on Saturday to do a bit of shopping. I'd rather shop at lidl's in Pool, but the Mrs always drags me to Cambourne.
 
oldish hippy said:
sorry for creating more work for u best of luck with it do hope it goes well
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Hi Oldish Hippy. I thought your wet blanket idea is great, which is why I am going to take your advice. I was going to place a large piece of cardboard against the body work to prevent the sparks, but the wet blanket is better as it will cool the sparks when cutting. Thanks for your idea.
 
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