Looks like Sargent Ec462 ....
Manual download on here ...
EC462 Control Panel | Shop | Sargent Electrical
sargentltd.co.uk
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My point was, the advice to disconnect has been consistent for donkeys years. Nothing to do with modern motors.Old hat.
dont need to unless a faulty diode in the altonator, my car says dont disconnect or use jump leads.My point was, the advice to disconnect has been consistent for donkeys years. Nothing to do with modern motors.
There is a ghost, its fooked rob and now doors welded shut, was used ww2 for recover troops and later a old folks home, shut 1980 ish and stripped wothin 2 weeks by travelers.View attachment 132391View attachment 132392View attachment 132393View attachment 132394View attachment 132395
My (possibly flawed) logic is :-
The battery could be getting charged from the Sun, EHU or Driving, none of which require disconnection so why do it if using a charger especially a smart charger???
I am not saying it doesn't need to be done but like most people, I'm more likely to do something if I know why I'm doing it.
I would take the good MPPT controller out of Hank and put it in Hanky Panky, and put the other into Hank, easy enough to do just remove fuses first to avoid any problems and of course obey the solar/controller connection rules.
What I wrote in post #105 has nothing to do with the controller Barry.
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it's really easy mate the infor above is a bit OTT for your setup
Start in Hank and remove the fuse/s to the battery and panel, assuming you put some in when you fit it all, if not cover the panel then disconnect the two panel + & - wires, the main thing is not to let the wires touch, so you could remove one at a time and tape it, even masking tape will do, then the wires to the battery, remove the controller and take it to Hanky Panky, do the exact same thing in there, you will have two to play with then.
Get Hanks controller and insert the wires (while it is NOT fastened to the wall ) to Hanky Pankys battery first, then the panel, I say to do that first as I know they are a bit awkward to see where they go on that controller, then fasten it up in a convenient position but you're on site and it might be easy to fix it to the wall first, on mine it was impossible to see.
Then fit the old PWM controller to Hank.
You can ring me if you get stuck of course, but like most things, once you have looked at it properly it's more obvious.
You do need to know which wires are Panel or Battery but that will be obvious as you just removed them.
All the controllers I've seen have six terminals Barry 2 solar, 2 battery and 2 for load etc wich I've never wired in so only 4 wires in each van & you only touch two at a time, + & - so one less than wiring a 13a plugThere is a fuse between the current controller and the battery. In theory it all sounds straight forward enough. The unknown is how the new one is wired up. I would also like to swap the batteries I reckon. Ill maybe take some more photos and a video when I get it all back here and start a new thread.
EHU = battery charger anyway!My (possibly flawed) logic is :-
The battery could be getting charged from the Sun, EHU or Driving, none of which require disconnection so why do it if using a charger especially a smart charger???
I am not saying it doesn't need to be done but like most people, I'm more likely to do something if I know why I'm doing it.
One set to leisure batteryI think they are already on here Kev. Will post them again here
This is whats in the new van. The controller is above the battery in one of the lockers. The battery is under a panel under the rear lounge drivers side seat
There are two sets of 2 x wires coming down from that one but only one battery.
This is mine in Hank
I'd bare my arse in Tesco if it did too, but neither will Hanks you'll need a B2B for that ot Motts fix.