True, also if you leave your driving lights on all night with the 'Clive bridge' installed you could have a flat hab
battery in the morning too!
if you do the motty system, also make sure you have some spare fuses.
I fitted a system like this (didn't know at the time it was a clive mott exclusive patented solution) as I had a starter
battery that was rubbish and needed a temporary solution whilst doing the conversion. But each time I started the engine and forgot to unplug the 12V accessory socket (easy to use that 12V socket on the dash if it is always live
), I blew the
fuse in the plug of course.
As a temporary solution, it works ok but it looks very amateurish and is messy in use. Far better to have a proper installed fix (and if you wanted to save money, you could use that direct wire with
fuse setup in a far better way by incorporating a relay controlled by the Ignition signal so it disconnects automatically before trying to start the engine).
PS. if anyone DID want to use the clive mott solution as shown in the diagram, I would recommend changing it so there is a
fuse at each end. As shown you have a potentially long piece of wire which has an active 12V supply along its WHOLE length all the way to each end of the
fuse holder. That is not a good idea - you should always provide
fuse protection for a cable close to its power source - and where there is a live power source at both ends, that means
fuse protection both ends.
