Leisure Battery Problem

Harrythehedgeho

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Hi. First time post and it’s a problem which I’m hoping one of you kind people might be able to help by throwing some light on it.

I have fitted a new leisure battery (110AH Xplorer) but when I turn it on everything cuts out after about a minute.

All the electrics work fine when either the engine is running or it’s hooked up to the mains.

I’ve tested with a multimeter which reads 12.7v.

The battery is attached to a Fuseless Switching Powersupply - ArScilicii AL-BK20

Once the electrics have cut out if I start the engine or hook up, if the electrics just come back on -I don’t have to reset anything

Any clues would be very much appreciated
 
Harrythehedgeho said:
Hi. First time post and it’s a problem which I’m hoping one of you kind people might be able to help by throwing some light on it.

I have fitted a new leisure battery (110AH Xplorer) but when I turn it on everything cuts out after about a minute.

All the electrics work fine when either the engine is running or it’s hooked up to the mains.

I’ve tested with a multimeter which reads 12.7v.

The battery is attached to a Fuseless Switching Powersupply - ArScilicii AL-BK20

Once the electrics have cut out if I start the engine or hook up, if the electrics just come back on -I don’t have to reset anything

Any clues would be very much appreciated
Click to expand...
What kind of battery is it? Lead Acid or Lithium?
I am kind of assuming it is Lithium as you say "when I turn it on" and Lead Batteries don't have on/off switches - or do you mean something different when you say "turn it on"?
If it is a Lead Battery (more likely if the battery is reading 12.7V), have you checked the polarity of the connections are right? one batteries can have the +ve and -ve posts at opposite ends to a different battery. if you just did a swap over, are you sure they had the same layout?
 
Thank you for you quick response. It is a lead battery (when I said turn on I meant the Motorhomes control panel).

The leads have coloured tags - I attached the one with the red tag to the battery terminal marked + and the black to - .

The + terminal on the new battery is front left whilst on the old one was front right.

I’m wondering if they are wrong labelled. Would it be sensible to test by reversing the cables - or red to - and black to +, or coukd such a test cause damage.
 
Harrythehedgeho said:
Thank you for you quick response. It is a lead battery (when I said turn on I meant the Motorhomes control panel).

The leads have coloured tags - I attached the one with the red tag to the battery terminal marked + and the black to - .

The + terminal on the new battery is front left whilst on the old one was front right.

I’m wondering if they are wrong labelled. Would it be sensible to test by reversing the cables - or red to - and black to +, or coukd such a test cause damage.
Click to expand...
with the reversed terminal layout, were you able to connect up ok in terms of cable slack then? quite unusual for a manufacturer to provide more than the bare minimum length!
Whist it is possible for the batteries to be wrongly labelled, it is most unlikely I would have thought. As you have a multimeter, you can confirm this though .... disconnect and with +ve to +ve and -ve to -ve meter to battery, check there is no "-" in the display when you see 12.7V.
I would absolutely not suggest reversing the cables as a test. When reversed you would usually at the minimum get a fuse blow, but worse could happen. It is possible that you have a system charger/device that is protecting against reversed DC polarity by disconnecting the supply and that is what is happening? Not sure if I can think of any reason for what you are getting other than a safety cutout happening. When you replaced the battery, did you have to disturb any other wiring in the process? I have seen lots of installs where there are stacks of cables on the battery posts, often of random colours and red wires used on-ve and black wires used on +ve to confuse matters. anything like that ring a bell?

Back to the first line .... you definately managed to get the old +ve connection onto the new battery +ve? and same with the -ve?
When you have disconnect the battery to do a double-check, check that the -ve lead on the battery is definately -ve. You could try a connectivity check from the lead to a chassis point - they would almost certainly be connected to provide a common earth/ground.


Once last thought ... just re-reading your post ... cuts out after about a minute? a reversed type connection fault would be instant cutout or bang! if it is working for a minute, that is something that is interesting and a mite confusing (at least to me).
 
More questions that might help us.
Do not have the ignition on for any of the following.


You say "I’ve tested with a multimeter which reads 12.7v."
a) when testing were the battery leads on ?
b) when testing with the battery leads off
b1) what reading do you get with the red test lead on the +ve terminal and the black tester lead on the -ve terminal
b2) what reading do you get with the red test lead on the -ve terminal and the black tester lead on the +ve terminal
c) when testing with the battery leads on and the EHU disconnected
c1) During that first minute, what reading do you get on the control panel
c2) After that first minute, what reading do you get on the control panel
d) Do you have solar.
 
Thank you wildebus and r4dent.

I could connect up in terms of slack although I had to slot battery in the other way round (180 degrees) compared to the old one.

On your advise I will definitely not test reversing the polarity!!

I didn’t disturb any other wires as only the terminal leads in the battery compartment.

The multimeter reading was with the leads connected but the 230v hook up off and engine off (so not being charged)

I’ll do the tests suggested and report back.

Meanwhile he is a photo. The battery does have 2 other terminals of a different type which I’ve ignored and left there covers on.

(Edited for typos)
 

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So, the electrics have just stayed on for 15 minutes on the battery before cutting out. I’ve achieved this twice.

But no problem with EHU.

a) when testing were the battery leads on ?
Yes but engine and hook up off.


b) when testing with the battery leads off
b1) what reading do you get with the red test lead on the +ve terminal and the black tester lead on the -veterminal

12.70

b2) what reading do you get with the red test lead on the -ve terminal and the black tester lead on the +veterminal

-12.70

c) when testing with the battery leads on and the EHU disconnected
c1) During that first minute, what reading do you get on the control panel

12.70


c2) After that first minute, what reading do you get on the control panel

12.70

d) Do you have solar.

No
 
Just grasping here but when you connected the leads to the battery terminals, did you undo the clamps or did you hammer them on, some batteries dislike the clamps being hammered on and can partially disconnect inside the casing, they should always be undone from the old battery and then slipped on and tightened.

Regarding the other terminals in your picture I'm pretty sure these are for accessories, I think you'll find they have an 8mm thread.
 
I'm at a bit of a loss on this. Nothing comes to mind, and from your responses, you are certainly doing things methodically and correctly so it doesn't seem like "finger trouble".
I can't think of a problem where the cause would be a simple battery fault. Did this issue only start after you changed the battery from old to new?
 
On a four post battery 2 are for short time use, i.e. starting the vehicle and 2 are for continuous use. Are you using the correct two terminals? Four post batteries are not normally leisure batteries but I could be wrong.
 
A strange tale.
Can you return to your original battery To check system works.
Only other thought is battery not charged enough, hence cutting out after a little time connected to solar.
No experience of 4 post batteries.
Keep us informed. Wildebus & Rodent have the knowledge certainly, as well as others.
 
Thank you so much for your replies.
It is a bit of a puzzler.

Pudsey Bear - no hammers were used just a number 10 spanner. I tightened until they were secure and firm but I could have forced them tighter. Is there an ideal tightness?

Wildebus & Stanski - I thought the old battery had died. It was 10 years old so I felt it had a good life. However I will try and recharge it and reinstall it. This could determine if the problem is with the battery

Mistericeman. I wondered why there was a box on the positive lead. So it has a fuse in it. I will check it out and replace it.

DOC & PB. The 4 terminals are a bit of a mystery to me. The picture on Alpha Batteries Website (where I bought it using this sites discount) only shows 2 terminals. Maybe I should ask them - although I doubt it’s the cause of the problem.

Stanski -from my research I thought a reading of 12.70 meant it was fully charged. However I did leave it charging last night and this maybe why I’m getting 15 mins today rather than the 2 minutes yesterday. I will leave it on charge overnight tonight and see tomorrow.

Thank you again everyone and I’ll let you know how I get on.
 
I though that if it is post connections the positive and negative are different sizes
 
Harrythehedgeho said:
a) when testing were the battery leads on ?
Yes but engine and hook up off.

d) Do you have solar.
No
Click to expand...
This confirms that you are reading the battery stored voltage, and not the charge coming from else where.
So far so good.

Harrythehedgeho said:
b) when testing with the battery leads off
b1) what reading do you get with the red test lead on the +ve terminal and the black tester lead on the -veterminal
12.70

b2) what reading do you get with the red test lead on the -ve terminal and the black tester lead on the +veterminal
-12.70
Click to expand...

and these confirm that the battery isn't incorrectly connected as you originally feared.


Harrythehedgeho said:
c) when testing with the battery leads on and the EHU disconnected
c1) During that first minute, what reading do you get on the control panel
12.70

c2) After that first minute, what reading do you get on the control panel
12.70
Click to expand...

and C2 confirms that the battery isn't somehow loosing charge instantly or a connection being unmade.
You did take the "After that first minute" to mean "when the 12v has stopped working" didn't you. ?
The connector on the +ve wire looked a bit dodgy and like it was held together by gaffer. I suspected it could loose contact after it got a bit warm.

I must admit to being at a loss for further ideas.
 
Couple more questions..

a) Is the new battery Class "A" "B" or "C"

b) I can't find a 4 post "Xplorer XP110L" anywhere. Do you have a link to the supplier so we can check the spec.
 
r4dent said:
b) I can't find a 4 post "Xplorer XP110L" anywhere. Do you have a link to the supplier so we can check the spec.
Click to expand...
12V 110AH Xplorer Leisure battery (679)

www.alpha-batteries.co.uk

12V 110AH Xplorer™ Leisure battery (679) - Alpha Batteries

Traditional yet always trusted. This type of battery has been around for years and will be familiar to many in […]
www.alpha-batteries.co.uk www.alpha-batteries.co.uk

This is what I ordered and is quoted in the documentation. As you can see it only has 2 posts but the battery that turned up (photo above) had 4.
 
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