Have your pipes froze?

[RichardHelen262]

there’s certainly no fear of you complaining it’s too hot at the moment we’re in cullera now although not anything like home its only 17 deg with a strong wind blowing our best weather was mid january till late feb we left the rain in portugal to come to spain early march and although dry we have only sat out half the time 20mph winds standard it seems

I will keep my fingers crossed and hope things improve over the next week

 

[jeffmossy]

I had forgotten about the water system in my Euromobil, until the cold weather arrived. I went out to the van in the snow to open taps and take the peg off the heater dump valve and after a few days of the cold spell and a slight thaw the water started dripping out of the heater valve and emptied it.
I checked the whole water and heater system the following day, and happy to say there does not seem to be any damage. The test will be at Easter when we go for a weekend away.
I don't think I shall buying any other van, unless it comes from the continent and has a similar insulation spec.

Glad all is ok

 

[Deleted member 75172]

Waste water drainage freezing?

Hello All
Complete newbie here to both this site and motor homing.
I bought a Burstner Aviano as it should be winterised and i will be using it in the cold weather.
The first night out we had no heating on and it did dump the water but is now sitting fully drained.
As the waste water pipe and valve come out underneath i was wondering if they are likely to freeze.
If so is there anything i can do to protect them?

 

[Fazerloz]

All has defrosted here now and everything is ok apart from the plastic ball vale handle broke on the tank drain valve when trying it. I will replace it with a brass WOG valve like the one I have put on the waste tank. It is far easier to use.

 

[harrow]

All has defrosted here now and everything is ok apart from the plastic ball vale handle broke on the tank drain valve when trying it. I will replace it with a brass WOG valve like the one I have put on the waste tank. It is far easier to use.

Water Or Gas :wave:

 

[Fazerloz]

Water Or Gas :wave:

Oil.:wave:

 

[phillybarbour]

Yes, I’ve had pipes freeze inside a double floor with ALDE heating on full blast but it was -22 outside for three days without a break. This was in an Italian ski resort but pipes thawed and no damage when temp went up to -12!

 

[campervanannie]

Amy waste tank froze when we were touring Scotland a couple of weeks ago just meant I had do empty my grey out of my washing up bowl in the hedgerow for a few days yes you heard me grey waste in the hedgerow

 

[snodvan]

I only have a diddy Romahome (Berlingo based). In past years I have emptied the water supply tank and drained the lines. There is no waste water tank - just an external bucket

Due to illness this year the drain job was overlooked and I did not think of it until I saw this thread. I have however had a 40w tubular heater running 24/7 through the worst of the frost so thought I would be ok. A few days ago when the "fake thaw" arrived and then the frost returned I checked in the van - including turning on the tap a few times. No water ! Bugger I said. Then did nothing.

Yesterday opened the driver door to sit inside and check how it would start, put my feet in the footwell ------ and the ***** water came over my shoes.

At first I though I had accidentally left the door not fully shut and that rain had come in. However, we have not had any serious rain for a week.

Investigation meant taking all the "things" out of the underseat lockers below the seats next to the water tank. THERE was the obvious source of the problem. There seems to be a non return valve after the pump - presumably to stop any less than clean water getting back into the tank. The flexipipe on the outlet of that valve had come adrift. I will guess the water in the pipe between the valve and that tap had frozen and the pressure build up had popped the joint because the water could not get back past the non-return valve. 2 minute job to refit the now defrosted pipe and tighten the worm drive clips - but a good half hour to clean up all the water from the footwell. Fortunately I have a "wet" vacuum which took care of most of the job

You live and learn

Snod

 

[mariesnowgoose]

Help! Camper boiler leaking.

So, as per some of the others in this thread...

Our camper boiler/water heater sprung a leak a few years back after the water wasn't drained before a cold snap.

A very kind member of WC at the time, Chris, (outtolunch) called in on his way to/from jobs and fixed it for us (he was a gas fitter).
It just needed a bit of soldering where one of the pipes had split. Chris fixed it for us and the boiler has been working absolutely fine ever since.
Unfortunately Chris has since left the forum and sunk without trace

So, you think our lesson would be learned. But, after reminding a certain someone (!) to drain system this last winter, turns out it never happened.
Discovered boiler not working about 6 weeks ago, pipes had frozen again over winter, repeat of first scenario etc. etc.

Neil has now disconnected the boiler and taken it out of the camper, BUT it's been languishing on the garage floor for the last month.
He's had a go last soldering some of the pipework, but I'm not convinced it will work (that's if he ever gets round to finishing the job).

So, the question is, does anyone know of a gas fitter in or around our area (north County Durham) who could fix this water heater for us?

I'm sure it's not a big job for someone who knows what they're doing, happy to pay, just it's Druridge in a month and I don't want to be stuck up there with no running water in the van, if possible. No big deal, we can cope, but I'd rather we didn't have to!

Any advice gratefully received!

Pics of boiler below. The most important pics are 3 & 4 that show the split in the pipe at the top.

 

[mariesnowgoose]

I would advise keeping a gas flame away from the area, too much heat may upset another soldered joint close to repair area.

Personally, I would recommend a soft soldering repair, using a soldering bolt. See attached image of how the process works. Very simple to do.

Ps, forgetting to drain down MH water system during very cold spells, are grounds for divorce. :lol-053:

Thanks for that, runnach

As for that latter, you're not joking! :hammer::hammer::hammer: :mad2: :ninja: :lol-061:

 

[harrow]

I would advise keeping a gas flame away from the area, too much heat may upset another soldered joint close to repair area.

Personally, I would recommend a soft soldering repair, using a soldering bolt. See attached image of how the process works. Very simple to do.

Ps, forgetting to drain down MH water system during very cold spells, are grounds for divorce. :lol-053:

I bang on every winter about draining the water down, it a lot easier than doing repairs and I have discovered I am wasting my breath.

One of the things I find with copper pipes, when they freeze they swell and expand and you only get a leak at the point where they cant take any more.

As far as the attempt at soldering the area needs to be as dry and bright and clean as possible using wire wool, for this use plumbers flux and solder and a gas torch to try to complete the repair.

A competent plumber would be the ideal choice of workman.

A plumber would be able to test with air after the repair.

 

[mariesnowgoose]

Neil has been trying to have a go at fixing it himself.

He's looked at your soldering advice, runnach, and just asked me if an electrical soldering iron will work (which is all he's currently got), but he says it just puts heat over tiny little area, so maybe he's just answered his own question i.e. no?

 

[Fazerloz]

Agreed use a big iron not a torch you will put too much heat into it if not used to doing such work. Someone with a big copper iron that is heated with a blowtorch, its how I repair bike tanks that don't want the paint on top spoiling. Remember when soldering cleanliness is all important.

 

[mariesnowgoose]

A massive thank you to a certain person behind the scenes who is helping get our boiler problem sorted by sending us the right gear to fix it!

No names, no pack drill :ninja:

You are a star! :bow: :bow: xx


(will also let you know how it goes, hopefully with pictures of the mend in due course)

 

[edina]

Marie, I would cut a copper 'patch' from a piece of pipe to solder over the split rather than try to bung up the split with solder and use a mini blowtorch if you can't get a solid iron.

 

[mariesnowgoose]

Marie, I would cut a copper 'patch' from a piece of pipe to solder over the split rather than try to bung up the split with solder and use a mini blowtorch if you can't get a solid iron.

Thanks for that Chris, noted.

We've got instructions from the v. kind person who is sending us the equipment, will see how we get on.

Meanwhile, another very kind member who lives not too far away has offered to come and help out if we get stuck.

What a forum! xx

Now I just need to find some more cake recipes!! :lol-049::lol-061::wave:

 

[mariesnowgoose]

Oh c,mon Marie, spill. I'm sure we all wish to know who to salute in your hour..........days..........weeks.............months, of need!!

Anyways, glad your getting there.

We'll see
If they don't get poisoned by cake first, they might let me disclose their identity at a later date :ninja::lol-049:

{thinks: hmm. I wonder. Could I get a whole new camper built just by baking cake? :idea: :lol-061:}

 

[colinm]

I bang on every winter about draining the water down, it a lot easier than doing repairs and I have discovered I am wasting my breath.

One of the things I find with copper pipes, when they freeze they swell and expand and you only get a leak at the point where they cant take any more.

As I've found with one of the loco's I look after, sometimes straight draining down doesn't work, I now take a couple of pipe off.

And it's not just copper, to give an idea of how much damage water freezing can do, a couple of years back was looking at an old tubular steel frame which had been left outside, in a several areas it had swollen up (started as rectangular box section) and a couple of the tubes had split, and that was 2.5mm thick steel.

 

[mariesnowgoose]

As I've found with one of the loco's I look after, sometimes straight draining down doesn't work, I now take a couple of pipe off.

And it's not just copper, to give an idea of how much damage water freezing can do, a couple of years back was looking at an old tubular steel frame which had been left outside, in a several areas it had swollen up (started as rectangular box section) and a couple of the tubes had split, and that was 2.5mm thick steel.

Colin, believe me - the boiler system was not drained down at all.

After the pipe burst the first time round - and at that point we could genuinely claim ignorance! - it was fixed and the system has been drained down over winter when not in use ever since.

Apart from this last winter. Of course. It would be. One of the coldest we've had for a while. Despite reminders being issued.

I rest my case, your honour. :raofl: