Gas vs. Electric kettle?

  • Thread starter Deleted member 95622
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Had one but sold it on, a gas kettle warms the van as well.
I like the idea because you can use outside as well in summer when you don't want to warm van up.
Plus the wind won't blow the gas out. :LOL:
 
I like the idea because you can use outside as well in summer when you don't want to warm van up.
Plus the wind won't blow the gas out. :LOL:
Ok if you use c sites, I have never been in one as yet, dont even know of any over here.
 
Ok if you use c sites, I have never been in one as yet, dont even know of any over here.
Campsite makes no difference to me, never hooked up to electric, don't even carry the cable anymore.

I did say when I have enough oooommmmphhh!!! :p
 
Campsite makes no difference to me, never hooked up to electric, don't even carry the cable anymore.

I did say when I have enough oooommmmphhh!!! :p
Neither do i carry a cable, then again I never stay more than one night away to be honest, our we country is so small and can be home in a few hrs at most.
 
Still use gas kettle, warms van up nicely in the morning.
Looking forward to getting an induction hob though when I have enough ooomphh, seems the way forward.

We have a small single ring 240v plug in hob which we can use if we're short of gas, I prefer using gas myself though.
 
With a large leisure battery, good solar, and the usual split charge relay, electricity is essentially "free", so wondering why not a small electric kettle rather than using the gas hob? Just for the odd cup of tea/coffee and instant soups, etc. (Van has a 3KVA inverter, but realistically only looking at a small 1-2Kw kettle)

Anyone do this or am I just bonkers?

Cheers,

-G
As others have pointed out, the electricity isn't free, from either the alternator, or the solar. Just because you aren't able to accurately measure it, it's still a scientific fact.
I try to be realistic, on costs, and always try to be aware of all the factors involved.
 
As others have pointed out, the electricity isn't free, from either the alternator, or the solar. Just because you aren't able to accurately measure it, it's still a scientific fact.
I try to be realistic, on costs, and always try to be aware of all the factors involved.

Most or many euro 6 have smart alternators, after about 20 mins only charge when coasting or breaking, and most with solar will be fully charged at sometime during the day, so not free because of investment, but you've made the investment anyway, may as well use it.
 
That's not what I proposed; I alluded to @Derekoak 's point that the engine works harder and burns more fuel when charging the LB than it does when just driving.
This was my thoughts as well given the high cost of bottled gas, but I'm not sure how much extra it costs to recharge.
 
You have to look closely at what you have now, what power you need now and what you add. It isn’t simply plugging a kettle in unless on hookup. Most days at this time of year I would have to drive two and a half to three hours to replace my daily useable with my 30a B2B. Not had enough solar from the 300W of panels (flat on the roof) to be worth mentioning for around a month. If I wanted to use my induction hob and electric kettle I would probably need to add another hours driving.

The other thing that I suspect most people are forgetting is weight. All items you add decrease your payload, get your suitcase scales out and start adding up what you are carrying around you may get a shock. It isn’t just the weight of the appliances it’s the solar panels, inverters, controllers/chargers, heavy cable and fuses.

With quite a few motorhomes coming in with around 200kg or less payload to start with these days it’s easy to slip up.

I have never bothered before as I had plenty or spare payload but currently looking at downplating mine so started taking stuff out and weighing and checking specs. It’s quite surprising, glad I junked my old lead acid battery’s for Lifepo4 all that time ago lol
 
Hi,

Thanks for the replies. Given me lots of food for thought.

The van we've recently bought already has "everything" it was a home converted panel van - 260w solar, big 230VA battery, 3KVA inverter as well as a 2-burner gas cooker and diesel heater.

Owing to a somewhat unexpected turn of events I'm using it to travel to work and staying in it for 2 nights before traveling back home (~60 miles each way - Scottish Borders to N. Tyneside - it's more economical than 3 round trips in my old car which recently blew up). Right now I'm seeing usable solar power and most days the battery has been topped up by solar. The cooker is fed from a system that takes 3 x 220g bayonet cartridges - currently a tenner for 4 in the local camper/caravan shop.

As yet, I've no idea just how long these will last but I'm not doing that much cooking - making tea/coffee, porridge, soups and so on. I suspect they won't run out soon (and I have spares, so not overly concerned). My thoughts were that as I seem to have plenty of electrons then why not put them to more use.

I've checked the wiring, etc. and it's all good and more than capable of feeding the inverter (and my background is electronics, computing, etc. geekery, so personally happy with it all) No plans to ever use a hook-up, although the facility is there. I might even investigate "smartening" the electrics up (because that's what I do) and delay the charge relay if the solar is working well, but for now I'm happy to accept going from 35mpg to 34mpg (or whatever the real numbers are) - it's still much less fuel than 3 trips in my old car!

Anyway, some interesting thoughts and ideas - thanks!

-G
 
Having read all the posts.
The only reason solar is not free is the investment to own installed solar. But the EXCESS solar is free as the investment has already been made.
We also boil water in a pot with heat exchange fins. These are about 25% more efficient than a pot without.
If I was buying bottled gas at calor prices I too would be more keen on electric heating. However I had installed an underslung lpg tank. This will pay for itself in 5 years of our use, one to go! So those with lpg tanks like gas, those with calor would like to change.
Using diesel to generate electricity Compared to lpg. We used about 12 pounds of lpg in 3 months of gas cooking and some space heating in Norway this year, very low sun so little solar from our 160watt panels. Our diesel bill was 1200 pounds for those 3 months. My estimate of 0.5% more fuel use when charging our lb whilst driving at 50 amp could therefore be around £6. I may be underestimating. The trouble is we would not get much cooking done even then from our system, we were some times, after days in one spot, glad to drive again to recharge the lb as it was! So the lpg had much more value than greater electricity use would have done. If we only had electric cooking and heating we would have been running the engine just to cook over and over again at great cost.
All in all whilst we can still get lpg our system is not broke and does not need fixing.
One day when I have a solar electric driven camper I will cook with electric.
 
Hi,

Thanks for the replies. Given me lots of food for thought.

The van we've recently bought already has "everything" it was a home converted panel van - 260w solar, big 230VA battery, 3KVA inverter as well as a 2-burner gas cooker and diesel heater.

Owing to a somewhat unexpected turn of events I'm using it to travel to work and staying in it for 2 nights before traveling back home (~60 miles each way - Scottish Borders to N. Tyneside - it's more economical than 3 round trips in my old car which recently blew up). Right now I'm seeing usable solar power and most days the battery has been topped up by solar. The cooker is fed from a system that takes 3 x 220g bayonet cartridges - currently a tenner for 4 in the local camper/caravan shop.

As yet, I've no idea just how long these will last but I'm not doing that much cooking - making tea/coffee, porridge, soups and so on. I suspect they won't run out soon (and I have spares, so not overly concerned). My thoughts were that as I seem to have plenty of electrons then why not put them to more use.

I've checked the wiring, etc. and it's all good and more than capable of feeding the inverter (and my background is electronics, computing, etc. geekery, so personally happy with it all) No plans to ever use a hook-up, although the facility is there. I might even investigate "smartening" the electrics up (because that's what I do) and delay the charge relay if the solar is working well, but for now I'm happy to accept going from 35mpg to 34mpg (or whatever the real numbers are) - it's still much less fuel than 3 trips in my old car!

Anyway, some interesting thoughts and ideas - thanks!

-G
With disposable cartridges for cooking what I said above about calor is true in spades!
You don't say what b2b alternator charger you have but you will get a little cooking out of your electric system as it is, to save your cartridges as backup.
 
Hi,

Thanks for the replies. Given me lots of food for thought.

The van we've recently bought already has "everything" it was a home converted panel van - 260w solar, big 230VA battery, 3KVA inverter as well as a 2-burner gas cooker and diesel heater.
[/QUOTE]
I would note that a 3KVA inverter is way OTT for that size of battery, your recommended 'constant' max current draw from that battery is 46amp, barely a fifth of what the invertor could draw.
Owing to a somewhat unexpected turn of events I'm using it to travel to work and staying in it for 2 nights before traveling back home (~60 miles each way - Scottish Borders to N. Tyneside - it's more economical than 3 round trips in my old car which recently blew up). Right now I'm seeing usable solar power and most days the battery has been topped up by solar. The cooker is fed from a system that takes 3 x 220g bayonet cartridges - currently a tenner for 4 in the local camper/caravan shop.
[/QUOTE]
At £10 for 0.880g of gas that's very expensive compared to using larger cylinders, ok for light use, but when you start 'living' in van during colder months you might want more hot food and drink.
As yet, I've no idea just how long these will last but I'm not doing that much cooking - making tea/coffee, porridge, soups and so on. I suspect they won't run out soon (and I have spares, so not overly concerned). My thoughts were that as I seem to have plenty of electrons then why not put them to more use.

I've checked the wiring, etc. and it's all good and more than capable of feeding the inverter (and my background is electronics, computing, etc. geekery, so personally happy with it all) No plans to ever use a hook-up, although the facility is there. I might even investigate "smartening" the electrics up (because that's what I do) and delay the charge relay if the solar is working well, but for now I'm happy to accept going from 35mpg to 34mpg (or whatever the real numbers are) - it's still much less fuel than 3 trips in my old car!

Anyway, some interesting thoughts and ideas - thanks!

-G
 
The only free cooking I get is using my Woodgas stove which I take with me out on the motorbike. Free fuel lying about everywhere (twigs, pinecones etc) and it is really efficient.

Having said that though it might make a bit of a mess inside a motorhome! 😊
 
You have to look closely at what you have now, what power you need now and what you add. It isn’t simply plugging a kettle in unless on hookup. Most days at this time of year I would have to drive two and a half to three hours to replace my daily useable with my 30a B2B. Not had enough solar from the 300W of panels (flat on the roof) to be worth mentioning for around a month. If I wanted to use my induction hob and electric kettle I would probably need to add another hours driving.

The other thing that I suspect most people are forgetting is weight. All items you add decrease your payload, get your suitcase scales out and start adding up what you are carrying around you may get a shock. It isn’t just the weight of the appliances it’s the solar panels, inverters, controllers/chargers, heavy cable and fuses.

With quite a few motorhomes coming in with around 200kg or less payload to start with these days it’s easy to slip up.

I have never bothered before as I had plenty or spare payload but currently looking at downplating mine so started taking stuff out and weighing and checking specs. It’s quite surprising, glad I junked my old lead acid battery’s for Lifepo4 all that time ago lol
Weight and clutter !
We had a 12v kettle amd ised it in a car. How stoopid. Tje car battery nearly died. But we we on a downslope so a bump start worked (just)
Just as well as ot was a hire car in "Wild Turkey" I dread to contemplate the difficulties had the car not "bumped".
So yes I am overcautious re battery usage
 
Having read all the posts.
The only reason solar is not free is the investment to own installed solar. But the EXCESS solar is free as the investment has already been made.
unfortunately, this isn't the case. Solar panels cost you, every time you drive the vehicle, because of two factors, weight and aerodynamic restrictions. I would suggest that most solar panel systems, on motorhomes, are similar to roof racks, regarding aerodynamics. The extra fuel cost of these are well documented, for anyone that is interested. At the present time, with the high price of diesel, this is even worse.
Given that solar is all but useless, in the UK winter, it isn't as good as many people like to think. Don't be fooled !
 

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