Fiat rip off servicing

That seems too low to me. Oil filter, air filter, diesel filter and oil for mine is more than that but may be cheaper for Fiats than Mercs and I think they take less oil in the engine. It will depend on what they do on the service as it could also need cabin filter, brake pads/shoes etc.

Garages are always a shock for someone who does it themselves though lol I am looking at £500 for a full service on my trike, includes back axle and clean/balance carbs to get rid of fast running when warm though and any other parts.
Same here, good quality oil ( Castrol ) along with oil, fuel and air filters ( Mann ) cost more than that even when bought on offer without which are normally over £100.
 
Do you all service your vans annually? I think our old van was probably done once every two years.
Yes religiously even through Covid despite the service interval for my Peugeot being 2 years or 20,000 miles.

In the scheme of things oil and filter costs are nothing when compared to the cost of major repairs to an engine or worse still a new engine.

Your engine will love you for a very long time if you give it regular oil and filter changes :)
 
Do you all service your vans annually? I think our old van was probably done once every two years.
Up until this one we never bothered as we normally insisted on one before buying, we did do the Laika, as despite buying is from a reputable garage, it needed a clutch on our second trip away, we had the cambelt done along with all the gubbins inc a service.
 
Saying things like "a filter will cost £x.xx" is a bit misleading. Every vehicle can be different with different parts costs, so impossible to someone to claim another is paying over the odds because THEY pay less.
For example, I used to change the fuel filter in my VW T4 quite frequently as I used Veg Oil in it (displaced the diesel crud in the tank). Used to buy the MANN filters from Halfords for literally under a couple of quid.
When I got a VW T5, the fuel filter for that, buying via a employee and family discount scheme, it was something like £50! And the fuel filter and housing on the Ducatos are around £65 minimum if you shop around, but a garage will charge retail which is way more.

Then you have the situation where if the garage is doing the work for you, they may insist on providing the parts so you don't get the option to shop around. The garage I used to use for my van insisted on this and the last time they wanted to charge me over £200 for a failed fuel filter part, I declined and went elsewhere (well, actually just did it myself, which is why I know the parts prices).
 
Up until this one we never bothered as we normally insisted on one before buying, we did do the Laika, as despite buying is from a reputable garage, it needed a clutch on our second trip away, we had the cambelt done along with all the gubbins inc a service.
First thing you check is a clutch before handing over monies, free play in cable at arm or bit point on the pedal if hyd, should be a inch or so from the floor, then a test run up a hill for slipage under load, you were prob distracted by the pot of honey they left on the drivers seat. 😂
 
Yes religiously even through Covid despite the service interval for my Peugeot being 2 years or 20,000 miles.

In the scheme of things oil and filter costs are nothing when compared to the cost of major repairs to an engine or worse still a new engine.

Your engine will love you for a very long time if you give it regular oil and filter changes :)
This is exactly my philosophy. I have over serviced my vehicles for more than fifty years now. I have yet to experience a mechanical failure (much touching of wood etc!).

The corollary of that is cited by mechanic who has been servicing the 'van for many years now.

He has customers who wonder why their vehicles are so unreliable. They're always the ones who put off servicing and repairs till something breaks.
 
Another thing is the long chain polymers dont unfold and bolster plus clean a engine if its not given a few hard fast runs, this along with not servicing leaves a white scum on the oil cap and the engine inside becomes cloged with black grimey dirt which in turn blocks the crank oilways leading to bearing falure, i used to get engines in which looked like a gooey coal mine and i had to use a scraper to lift the gunge out of the sump, give your van a grandprix run every now and again esp before a oil change. ;)
 
Another thing is the long chain polymers dont unfold and bolster plus clean a engine if its not given a few hard fast runs, this along with not servicing leaves a white scum on the oil cap and the engine inside becomes cloged with black grimey dirt which in turn blocks the crank oilways leading to bearing falure, i used to get engines in which looked like a gooey coal mine and i had to use a scraper to lift the gunge out of the sump, give your van a grandprix run every now and again esp before a oil change. ;)

I always drive anything including the motorhome like I stole it Trev anyway. To quote Basil. "Give it a dammed good thrashing!"
 
Just back from nearest Fiat dealership. Had to get software update under warranty,
Van due first service in November, so I thought I would get a quote from them.

I normally get it done by Glasgow Motorhomes for about £280.

Well when I got the quote I was utterly gobsmacked, £924 unbelievable.

She started rattling of the cost of oils and filters etc.
I stopped her half way through and said forget it.
She then said they’re expensive to service.

I replied well they are here. :)
I phoned Fiat professional service centre Govan Glasgow yesterday regarding first full (2 year) service of my 2.2 diesel CV40 £480 + vat, what I also wanted to find out how early or how late from 2nd anniversary would be able to have this done they tell me + or - 1 month, any comments on this.
I notice you are from Milton of campsite, we used to live in Lenzie up until 6 years ago now Wimbledon SW london
 
At 70,000 miles i replaced the sump pan on my Peugeot 2.8HDi beacause the outer suface was covered in rust and i wanted to sort it before it started weeping because it is a common problem on the X244 series 2.8`s of Peugeot, Fiat and Citroen vehicles.

When i removed the old sump i was really taken aback at what i saw with the condition of the bottom end.

The inside of the sump pan was very very clean with no sludge what so ever and the bottom end bearings etc. etc. were genuinely like new leading me to believe IMHO that the rest of the internals were also in the same condition.

Prior to each service i used Forte Advanced Motor Engine Flush and then as i said previously good quality Castrol GTX 10W40, A3 B4 which became Castrol Ultraclean 10W40, A3 B4 oil which i`m convinced was a major factor in the cleanliness of the internals.

The X244 series 2.8`s need 10W40 and not 5W40 oil as some places want to recommend because the 5W40 it too thin and can cause the crankseal to leak.

When i sold the motorhome at 103,000 miles it was still running fantastic with excellent MPG.

I`m just posting my regime which i was happy to do and worked for me, i`m not looking for a discussion into the whys and wherefores of additives etc.
 
At 70,000 miles i replaced the sump pan on my Peugeot 2.8HDi beacause the outer suface was covered in rust and i wanted to sort it before it started weeping because it is a common problem on the X244 series 2.8`s of Peugeot, Fiat and Citroen vehicles.

When i removed the old sump i was really taken aback at what i saw with the condition of the bottom end.

The inside of the sump pan was very very clean with no sludge what so ever and the bottom end bearings etc. etc. were genuinely like new leading me to believe IMHO that the rest of the internals were also in the same condition.

Prior to each service i used Forte Advanced Motor Engine Flush and then as i said previously good quality Castrol GTX 10W40, A3 B4 which became Castrol Ultraclean 10W40, A3 B4 oil which i`m convinced was a major factor in the cleanliness of the internals.

The X244 series 2.8`s need 10W40 and not 5W40 oil as some places want to recommend because the 5W40 it too thin and can cause the crankseal to leak.

When i sold the motorhome at 103,000 miles it was still running fantastic with excellent MPG.

I`m just posting my regime which i was happy to do and worked for me, i`m not looking for a discussion into the whys and wherefores of additives etc.
The 5 or 10 bit meens thin when cold which gets to the bearings faster first start, but some are semi sinthetic and some engine oil seals dont like it.
As for names of oil it meens nout as all oils nomater what name have to meet the same speck, tesco brands and others are from the big boys just rebadged.
 
Nice to see i am not the only one that drives like you Barry lolololol

Ill have to watch it in the new van as its a lot faster than the old one and stuff doesn't disintegrate or fall off it when you hoof it. I cant stand sitting on the motorway at 56mph tied up with wagons. I need to watch it though as I think the limit for this one on duel carriageways is just 60mph.
 
Ill have to watch it in the new van as its a lot faster than the old one and stuff doesn't disintegrate or fall off it when you hoof it. I cant stand sitting on the motorway at 56mph tied up with wagons. I need to watch it though as I think the limit for this one on duel carriageways is just 60mph.

Are you over 3500kg then Barry?
 
Not forgetting the Rozzers can see it all automatically on the onboard ANPR confusers, as well as on the roadside posts, it's getting like you can't have fun anymore, so glad all this £$%^ didn't come out when I was getting into it.
 
Gov site goes on unladen weight;

 
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