Extra 12v trailing socket under front dinette

[Pudsey Bear]

What does -5 mean?

I just watch the Victron app. There is a good game to play where you guess the watts going in depending on the weather when its in bulk. One of us is usually within five to ten watts.

ERR, temperature

 

[barryd]

ERR, temperature

Bit nippy down your way then?

 

[Pudsey Bear]

Bit nippy down your way then?

It's a fecking fridge,

 

[barryd]

It's a fecking fridge,

You never said it was a fridge. We were discussing solar input. I assumed it was some new fangled controller thing you bought. -5 is a bit cold for a fridge anyway isn't it?

 

[Pudsey Bear]

#19

 

[barryd]

#19

Exactly. Right after my post about solar controllers input.

 

[Pudsey Bear]

Not my fault I'm ambidextrous, is it?

 

[Nabsim]

would have thought he mention of alpicool would have told you fridge myself Barry...

 

[barryd]

would have thought he mention of alpicool would have told you fridge myself Barry...

Yeah I wasn't really listening

 

[st3v3]

Possibly Steve BUT it would give Barry an excuse to start a 'Help! My shunt doesn't see my inverter load' thread

Lol. Surely at this stage everyone and their mum knows that NOTHING except the battery (bank) connects to the shunt

 

[MERL]

You sure about that

No Steve....not sure in fact I'd say I was wrong and the shunt WOULD see the load.
I remember where my doubt about using the chassis for a return path whilst using a shunt came from now and it wasn't a concern about the shunt 'seeing' the load because it will providing the leisure battery is ONLY connected to the shunt (as it should be) but the accuracy and reliability of the shunt while it's sharing a conductor (the shell of the van) with everything that's being powered by the starter battery electrics Inc starter motor, wipers, lights etc etc.
Discuss.

 

[st3v3]

No Steve....not sure in fact I'd say I was wrong and the shunt WOULD see the load.
I remember where my doubt about using the chassis for a return path whilst using a shunt came from now and it wasn't a concern about the shunt 'seeing' the load because it will providing the leisure battery is ONLY connected to the shunt (as it should be) but the accuracy and reliability of the shunt while it's sharing a conductor (the shell of the van) with everything that's being powered by the starter battery electrics Inc starter motor, wipers, lights etc etc.
Discuss.

If you think about what we are interested in, in regards to the shunt, it's the amount of current that has come out of the LB. As long as it all goes through the shunt, it will measure it.

 

[MERL]

Yes, spot on.
In my current van I can't get the leisure battery near the other equipment, it's nearly 2m away. Originally I used the van chassis for the negative return.
I decided to go lithium and fit a shunt, I also decided to change from using the chassis to cable because the voltage drop across the chassis was actually surprisingly high. I can't remember the actual series of events but at one point I had the shunt installed whilst still using the chassis as the negative and you could clearly see the shunt current changing as the van engine ran and lights etc were switched on and off and the high current being drawn by the starter motor really messed things up. I wasn't particularly bothered anyway because I was installing a negative cable anyway and didn't really give it a lot of analytical thought and my memory of events (not so good at my age) lead me to the statement I made previously.
Thinking about it some more obviously the fluctuations in current must have been caused by fluctuations in voltage drop across the shared chassis as the starter battery current interfered slightly with the leisure battery current. The same thing happens in amplifiers, a good amp uses what's known as a 'star ground' where every amplification stage has it's 0v individually wired back to a single point at the power supply rather than using multiple points across the grounded chassis.