electrical

n brown

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anyone know who the manufacturer is ?
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Yep, Denmans. I have an account Nige, if you need to use them.

What do you need? I may even have it.
 
Yep, Denmans. I have an account Nige, if you need to use them.

What do you need? I may even have it.
cheersSteve ,i tried to pm you but it wouldn't let me. i've ordered one now , i needed to up from 16a to 20 as my planer keeps tripping the switch on start-up
 
cheersSteve ,i tried to pm you but it wouldn't let me. i've ordered one now , i needed to up from 16a to 20 as my planer keeps tripping the switch on start-up

Hope your wiring is up to it.... Fuse is there to protect the wires more than what's on the end of them...

Breakers also come in different ratings...
Motor rated breakers allow for the start ramp up current without tripping....
Something wire fuses were a bit better at dealing with ;-)
 
Which type did you get?
Type C devices are the normal choice for commercial and industrial applications where some degree of electrical inrush is expected.

may be more suitable then increasing the current rating
 
Sounds more like you need a type C trip.
  • type B devices are generally suitable for domestic applications. They may also be used in light commercial applications where switching surges are low or non-existent.
  • Type C devices are the normal choice for commercial and industrial applications where some degree of electrical inrush is expected.
Snap!!!
 
Hope your wiring is up to it.... Fuse is there to protect the wires more than what's on the end of them...

Breakers also come in different ratings...
Motor rated breakers allow for the start ramp up current without tripping....
Something wire fuses were a bit better at dealing with ;-)

To add to what you've said, cable properly fused at 16A will probably (should) be 2.5mm2, which in most situations would be fine to fuse at 20A.

Also, yes, probably need a C type breaker, not B. However, the current increase may well work anyway.
 
A workshop should have 30amp cable to it,esp if welding or running a compressor and other electric motors.
 
To add to what you've said, cable properly fused at 16A will probably (should) be 2.5mm2, which in most situations would be fine to fuse at 20A.

Also, yes, probably need a C type breaker, not B. However, the current increase may well work anyway.
well i cancelled as the guy said he couldn't get any Ctypes . do you reckon a c16 might do it ? since i moved here i've just started it by slowly upping the trip switch,but it won't do that anymore ,probably worn it out !
 
well i cancelled as the guy said he couldn't get any Ctypes . do you reckon a c16 might do it ? since i moved here i've just started it by slowly upping the trip switch,but it won't do that anymore ,probably worn it out !

To be honest its a bit of guess work because to be sure you would have to know the surge current, if they are cheap buy one and give it a try :)
 
Try giving the offending breaker a good whack of WD40.. it works on our oven..
If it's on at 6pm , when there is a marked voltage drop on our power line.. ( possibly due to our neighbours all starting cooking as a TV programme ends.? )
Volts down = amps up ?
The breaker is mechanical, remember.
It breaks then and only then, in the cold weather, when people are heating and cooking.
Mind you I'm no sparky.. just a pig thick ex- Metallurgist.. ( retired, 1975 ).
 
Are you sure it's not the planer at fault. Has the motor got a knackered start capacitor on it or tight bearings.
 
We had problems with the electrics. Fuse box was getting very very hot. Called our supplier Scotish power, not really interested. Put us on to the national power guys. The fuse box was really old possibly 1950's I think.
Anyway it was too hot to touch ( Mandie burnt her fingers ).
The power guys came out and changed everything for free. Impressed they changed it live!
Mandies brother having heard what we had achieved then managed to get the power guys out to upgrade his meter also for free. Maybe worth considering Nigel.
Cheers. David.
 

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