Damp

[malagaoth]

In my ever so humble opinion damp of the levels he is claiming would be obvious (without a meter) the M/home would STINK!

My old Avantguard has bad damp in the over cab area and if you closed the M/h up for a few days and then went in the stench would bowl you over!

 

[PaulBrash]

In my ever so humble opinion damp of the levels he is claiming would be obvious (without a meter) the M/home would STINK!

My old Avantguard has bad damp in the over cab area and if you closed the M/h up for a few days and then went in the stench would bowl you over!

No foisty damp smell at all

 

[Minisorella]

Just noticed you said yours is a 2007 Elddis Autoquest 140... mine is a January 2006 Compass Avantgarde 140 (55 plate). I would think they are identical, other than stuff like the seat covers and woodwork of course.

Mine was 5 years old when we got it and we straight away noticed it had a leaky side rail that affected the overhead but it was under warranty from the dealer, so they replaced the rails without us ever knowing the cost. Shame, or I could have been more help. A couple of years ago, I found a slightly damp bit in a small central area of the overhead and this time it was the roof seam that runs across the width of the van, very close to the front. They cleaned the seam and resealed it for just over £100. Other than those issues, it's been a great van and I wouldn't part with it for the world.

If there is damp in yours and it's coming down that front corner as they've indicated, I'd suspect the side-rail. Is there any sign of damp in the cab itself, on the upright bit of the frame that borders the the windscreen? (Sorry, I don't know the technical term!) That's how we knew we had a problem. It's a similar sort of grey fabric on the uprights and they were clearly damp and getting water stained. Having said that, I don't think I could trust a word he says, based on his mainly thinking there's damp because of the grey felting! As I said, it's standard kit. I'm not sure if your readings of 10-14 would constitute a problem? Someone might correct me if I'm wrong. My very slight seam leak produced a highly localised reading of 25-35... that's more like it in my experience. Second opinion called for!

Good luck and don't let it put you off... we all have teething problems


Edit to say... I've just seen your photos and our vans could be twins! I'm told the rubber bit along the rails is only there to cover the screws and keep it tidy, so that's not an indication there's anything wrong underneath the rails. You can replace the rubber trim if it's damaged... I think it pushes in with a screwdriver type gizmo. I honestly wouldn't know by looking if there's anything wrong but I do trust in my friend the damp meter Also, with readings as high as he said, the grey fabric would definitely feel wet... mine did that first time.

 

[hextal]

I just use my damp meter to check for relative differences. I measure bits of the van that can't get damp due to leaks (short of driving into a river) and then use those as the baseline. It's not NASA level accuracy, but it's a fair indicator.

I'd measure the potential trouble locations then compare them to some other random locations and check the spread.

I tend to get between 8 and 12%, but that varies with time of year / humidity, etc.

 

[Canalsman]

I would start by running a dehumidifier inside the 'van for a week or so to dry everything out. Ensure all cupboards and doors are open and cushions moved clear of surfaces.

Then have the damp levels rechecked by somebody else.

After that use the 'van for six months and recheck before Winter.

 

[Deleted member 58274]

140

Hi all, we have an Elddis Autoquest 140 2007 also....after a year noticed damp in overhead cab nearside and deduced leaking seals. So, after a long dry period applied silicon to the seals (the one across the roof as well as the ones on the side) and all seems well...lots of winter Spanish sun dried it out too !! However, there is a squishy feel to a half inch high section of the interior panel where I suspect the wood has rotted a bit and a small area of blistering to the aluminum on the outside. All this has stabilized since applying the silicon a year ago.
So, do I spend fortunes having a bit of dodgy wood replaced....all the outside ally paneling off and back on..
..interior lining possibly not replaceable...err no !!! Happy to just contain the problem...it was a cheap van so enjoying not worrying about it !! Maja

 

[AIKIDOMO]

Thanks, I only bought it this week and used a damp meter before parting with hard earned, thought I would get it checked by a professional, as soon as he saw it he said I am sure there is damp, mainly because the overcab bed area has been covered with a felt like material.. he said that is usually done to hide damp.....I assume he would need to get at the woof from the inside?

Honestly Paul is this what he said. The overcab on the Eldiss Autoquest 400 that I have is exactly the same as yours my friend felt light weight material covers the front of the cab and does discolour a bit. Also around the front doors you get a slight ingress that marks the trim I have looked inside of this and all it is is like a tide line with no real problems arising, most prob caused by condensation or driving with the windows open.

 

[RoaminRog]

My gut feeling is that he saw you coming! Keep your money FIRMLY in your pocket!
We are not quite out of winter yet, condensation is to be expected. Air the van out, open all cupboard doors and ventilate every part, as has been mentioned, use a dehumidifier for a few days (but dont forget to keep an eye on the water level-it will need throwing out).
These people who offer to 'do you a favour' tend to p*ss up your back and then try to tell you it's raining!

 

[Byronic]

Most people haven't got a clue how to use a damp meter correctly or how to interpret the results,
cheap meters are a waste of time I would only use a protimeter survey master , personally I would give the van a few weeks natural drying with good airflow and test and monitor .
This is about house damp but sums up how easy a false reading is .
I have saved many home owners thousands of pounds in unnecessary work advocated by surveyors and the damp proofing crooks.
You also need to use a hygrometer and thermometer to prove condensation is the problem but probably
over the top for a van !
Just to add pretty much all meters only give a relative timber damp reading .
The problem with damp meter readings

It's fair to say though even with a cheap DIY damp meter used in various spots throughout
the van and repeated several times would give you a good idea if one spot showed a consistently
high reading would you not agree?
I notice the 2 different materials covered by the ali jointer. I reckon there's a good chance
that the differential rates of expansion/contraction have sheared the sealant because it's been
screwed down too hard and practically all the sealant has squeezed out, ie not enough remains to take
up the movement. I'm trying hard not use the words % elongation and all that, but I
recall you mentioning 'interstitial' (I've never had the nerve to!)condensation on another
thread so I know that you knowwhat I'm talking about !
But then again it could all be down to just internal condensation.

 

[Canalsman]

HD - It is butyl rubber sealant.

Silicone sealant is hopeless on vehicles. Polyurethane sealant is excellent.

 

[Byronic]

I've found silicone sealant only good in the short term.

Use the stuff that's a bit like white blutac, comes on a roll with a paper backing. That's superb stuff.

The oldest bit I've used of it is well over 25 years old now and is as good as the day I fitted it.

It sticks, it is waterproof, flexible, resilient and it will stick to itself if you ever need to add more.

I can't remember what it is called, though. The huge roll I bought decades ago lost its label some time in the last century (no, that isn't an exaggeration).

Probably the ubiquitous Mastic Sealing Tape, forget the exact original name/maker. But now
goes under the W4 label. On a waxed tape 'tis convenient and easy to use.But really, if anyone
is after sealant (not an adhesive sealant) and requires it to remain flexible very long term the
modern product of choice is SIKOLASTOMER-710 Butyl Sealant. There are similar products available
but none imo have proven themselves and have the reputation of 710 in caravan applications.
The only downside is that it's can be messy if not applied carefully, devilish stuff!
Just recalled the name, CARAFAX Mastic Seal.....

 

[barlicker]

I have known dubious caravan repairers to wet their fingers when using a damp tester. Get another meter or borrow one and check again in various areas and don't part with your cash to this guy. The price is way over the top.

 

[PaulBrash]

Update

After complaining to the dealer about the potential damp - he sent me pictures saying they had been treated - indeed it looks like the covering is aftermarket - what do you think of these pics

 

[barlicker]

That damp looks very bad, hopefully they have eradicated it.

 

[molly 2]

That looks More like a £1000 job .

 

[molly 2]

Blame Rentokill for the big damp proofing con , they got the mortgage companies on board , I know slightly different in caravans and vans but it is an easy con .

I was told dry rot was invented by rentokill.