Are Solar Panels Realy Worth Having

buy now but they havent got them till october. then if you havent paid they will be dearer.
not quite so good when you think about it .
 
Andrew Davies said:
I spent some time installing domestic PV panels on roofs (just before 'the man' killed the only growth industry during the post banker dip we're enjoying...but I digress :rolleyes:).

These were fitted over November and into February and were producing higher ampage per hour than they did in the summer, the angle of the sun is better (on a sloped roof) in the winter and the radiation levels are often higher for PV generation in winter. In the summer less per hour is produced but there are longer days and clearer sky and so overall the production is higher.
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That is why for over 4 years I have used a freestanding panel instead of one fixed to the roof of my van. We have used our van a lot in the Winter and I can still get up to 4 amps going into my batteries at 10.30 am in early February (that is with a good quality 90 watt panel). If it was on the roof it would barely be 1 amp as the Sun is very low in Northumberland.

I am fitting a 100 watt panel to the roof of my new van but will fit a DIN socket inline as well. This is so that I can simply plug in my 90 watt freestanding panel to boost the charge if need be. This new van has an alarm fitted, so it and the radio will be a constant small drain on the batteries. The fitted panel will ensure topped up batteries.
 
I must admit at the moment I'm thinking whether I can get a semi flexible panel that I can affix to the van with strong magnets so I can move it around various sides to follow the sun ( I have enough storage space to keep it safe in the garage) and then I can try and get maximum sunshine rather than best effort if it was on the roof.
 
13.8 is fully charged so the regulator is doing its job and shutting charge down. read battery voltage in the dark to get the true voltage rather than apparent charge voltage.
 
ozzo said:
I must admit at the moment I'm thinking whether I can get a semi flexible panel that I can affix to the van with strong magnets so I can move it around various sides to follow the sun ( I have enough storage space to keep it safe in the garage) and then I can try and get maximum sunshine rather than best effort if it was on the roof.
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why not just get a folding one
 
Fazerloz said:
Not many have your setup though, and obviously works well for you. I wonder how many are disappointed with their setups i am sure some must be.
Those panels do look like they could be a good buy.
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I would imagine that if someone is not happy with their setup they either need to buy more panels or run better sized cabling to charge the batteries properly in the first place.
 
iampatman said:
About a year ago I fitted a 100w panel and controller. Been working fine but the last few days I've noticed that there doesn't seem to be much of a charge going into the batteries ( 2 x 110). Today I'm in the South of France in blistering sunshine and my BM1 battery monitor tells me I'm feeding 0.5a to the batteries. They are at 13.5v and at 89% capacity. Checked all connections. Panel is clean and not shaded. Solar charge controller is flashing slowly indicating that it is charging batteries. I'm stumped.
Pat
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I wouldnt trust your bm1 monitor as i dont believe it to be particularly acurate.
I have a bm2 monitor and it is not the best as one moment its 90 percent and then when a draw goes on it then registers as fully charged later on about 5 mins later.The regulator is always on float too.They are good for telling you what amperage you are drawing how much your panels have charged your batteries e.t.c but i look at my charger to see the state of charge as it seems more reliable then the bm monitors who i now look at as a rough guide.My batteries are always at 13.8 volts.
 
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Fazerloz said:
You may have only required 20% of the panels rated output. The panel may have only been producing at 50% of rated output, due to deterioration of the panel but still plenty for your needs. But the panel is operating at 50% less than rated output so not working efficiently. Yes you do know how to push a button and it would say everything was ok but would not be a indication of panel efficiency. Oh and batteries can explode. :have fun:
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If the meter shows maximum charge then how can you assume inefficiency? Clearly the solar panel was doing all that was asked of it, which in my book makes it efficient.

As for use, these things are designed to supply enough power to keep going what an average user will need - ie television/computer/lights/water pump etc. For heating, hot water, fridge and cooking we have gas tanks. If anybody requires much more than that maybe they should consider buying a house rather than a motorhome! If a solar panel keeps everything working then to say it might not be efficient is rather like saying a smart car isn't efficient because you tried taking it off-road and it didn't work!
 
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100w panel arrived this morning from TripleSolar: it was ordered Wednesday evening, £89 including delivery. That's what I call service!
John
 
Yes I will, but the unit has MC4 connectors. Do I just buy another pair of male/female connectors or do I need something special? I'll be using a Schaudt solar controller.
Thanks
John
 
I'm not too bothered about passing connectors through the roof as the glands I use have a little slit in the rubber grommet to facilitate that. I was wondering if it would be easier to cut off the MC4's and make some waterproof crimped joints. I have the heatshrink!
John
 
most folk i know cut off the connectors join with crimp on ones or if your lucky the panels may have screw connectors in the box on reverse of panel . . save a few shilling and dont spend a fortune on the regulator . the differance i find in pwm or mppt in real use isnt worth worrying about . looks good on paper . bit like the differance between mono or poly crystal panels . in use hardly notice the differance.
 
. I have the heatshrink

Sorry to read that, John You can get tablets but I find cream rubbed in works better !:lol-053:

Must stop this Guinness for breakfast lark !

Paul , ( International playboy and Irish explorer )
 
siimplyloco said:
Yes I will, but the unit has MC4 connectors. Do I just buy another pair of male/female connectors or do I need something special? I'll be using a Schaudt solar controller.
Thanks
John
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Your Schaudt regulator will come with a number wiring sections. If you have an EBL, there will be a fitting to put in line with the EBL charging output. This is for the solar panel to also charge your van battery.

There will be a lead to plug in to your EBL solar socket, the other end plugs into the regulator. BE CAREFUL ABOUT THE ORDER IN WHICH YOU CONNECT. The solar connection on the EBL has voltage on it, so connect to the regulator BEFORE you plug in to the EBL as the two ends on this lead are not insulated and you will likely blow the solar fuse on the EBL (like I did). :rolleyes:
 
maingate said:
Your Schaudt regulator will come with a number wiring sections. If you have an EBL, there will be a fitting to put in line with the EBL charging output. This is for the solar panel to also charge your van battery.

There will be a lead to plug in to your EBL solar socket, the other end plugs into the regulator. BE CAREFUL ABOUT THE ORDER IN WHICH YOU CONNECT. The solar connection on the EBL has voltage on it, so connect to the regulator BEFORE you plug in to the EBL as the two ends on this lead are not insulated and you will likely blow the solar fuse on the EBL (like I did). :rolleyes:
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Thanks for the info: very useful EBL advice.
John
 
paul h said:
would i need to double these up to charge my 24 volt system or simply buy a 24 volt regulator
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is your living area all 24v?
i only do 12v living areas>
use a 24v to 12v durite split charger to charge liesure batteries on the move.
 
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