Done it four times now,
Fiat 500 hired
Smart car hired
It’s an amazing route but I’m not taking a van there!
I loved doing it on the scooters but the third and fourth time were in winter and it was 5 degrees so hired the car,
You don’t drive down this road without seeing an accident,
My advice is hire a scooter or the smallest car you can squeeze into as even in winter there are traffic jambs and it’s easier to get by in something small, enjoy your trip
Don't even consider it. Ok if you really want to do it and visit the much overcrowded towns use a campsite as suggested and bus or better still tour bus as the whole area is hellish driving. Make absolutely sure you know exactly were you are going and check on Google earth you can make the turn onto a site. Also on trains and buses take precautions as unfortunately pick pockets are common. But yes its a beautiful area.