best Genny is Honda , screw fix do a small lightweight 4 stroke pure signwave for about £180.as you a new to MH try a few more nights out reducing you fridge usage will help also make sure your battery is fully charged don't depend on solar this time of year .thanks for the reply, just been on e-bay looking at genys theres a SIP 950watt £135 nekw with back up reads well, says it as battery charge capable, would something like that be any good you think?
Their is a utube video from sterling power products they compare the consumption of 3 types of fridges gas ,12 v and, 240v you may find informative . .sorry not nerdy enough to post the link.
Their is a utube video from sterling power products they compare the consumption of 3 types of fridges gas ,12 v and, 240v you may find informative . .sorry not nerdy enough to post the link.
thanks for the reply, just been on e-bay looking at genys theres a SIP 950watt £135 new with back up reads well, says it as battery charge capable, would something like that be any good you think?
turn of until you produce about 40 amp a day don't forget that heavy discharging will kill your batterys.What do you mean by reduce fridge usage Molly, turn it off? If so will it not work out the same as it will have to ramp up to cool down again, or is there something I am missing?
I suppose your vehicle is expected to be on EHU all the while and no one has thought that you would ever contemplate parking by a nice beach OVERNIGHT :scared:
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This thread has been getting me a little worried as to replace my fridge with a similar capacity 3 way would be at least a grand so I have started having a look round. I have only ever previously had the small 3 way fridges you used to get in caravans (Hotpoint type) so this is all new to me.
I am posting this as a bit of assurance to the original poster in case you were starting to feel a bit like I did, I have found a few saying the same thing now so it isn't all doom and gloom but it does depend on how you want to use your mh. If stopping in the same place a while you are going to need an alternative means of power (could be running the engine, big solar bank, penny, EHU). If you are Wild camping and moving frequently and your batteries are okay you should be okay from what I have found so far.
Compressor Fridges
Portable fridges will generally come as one of two varieties. The majority of fridges are what’s known as ‘Compressor Fridges’, which are sometimes also called ‘2-Way Fridges’. Compressor fridges use a small compressor unit as a means of cooling power, and often have 2 ways of powering that compressor; 12v battery power or 240v mains power (hence the term ‘2 Way’).
Pros
• As a general rule, compressor fridges are able to chill down to lower temperatures and cool more consistently than the 3-Way options, regardless of the outside ambient temperature, due to the more powerful compressor motor. This allows most of the compressor fridges to also double as freezers.
• Work well in uneven terrain – most compressor fridges will operate just as well regardless of being flat or on an incline.
• Built with 12v operation in mind, which means they run very efficiently on battery power compared to the 3 Way fridges. Cons
• Though modern portable compressor fridges are extremely quiet, there is still some audible noise when the compressor is running, similar to that of your standard home fridge (though it doesn’t run all the time).
• Compressor fridges also require a lot of extra equipment to run when not connected to mains power, such as a battery as well as a means of charging the battery, like solar panels or generators, which can cost a lot of extra dollars.
• Running on battery power means a limited supply of electricity – usually around 2 days or so depending on the size of the fridge. This means a lot of recharging the battery over the course of a prolonged holiday.
3-Way Fridges
The other option when looking at portable fridges are 3-Way fridges, so named because they have 3 means of being powered; 12v battery power, 240v mains power, and LPG Gas. 3-Way fridges lack a compressor, and instead rely on a gas flow heat exchange system located in the back of the fridge to extract heat from the fridge and cool the internal temperature.
It’s the ability to use Gas that makes these fridges appealing to travellers looking to be out away from power for extended periods of time. Using gas, a 3-Way fridge will stay cold for up to 3 weeks or more, far far longer than any battery can power their compressor counterparts on a single charge.
Pros
• A standard 9L LPG Gas bottle will run a 3-Way fridge for weeks on end, providing an incredibly efficient and cheap means of powering your portable fridge for an extended period of time.
• No need to spend a lot of extra money on batteries and charging methods; a standard 9L LPG Gas bottle is all you need.
• The heat exchange system of cooling means the fridge runs completely silent. Cons
• Due to the gas flow cooling system, a 3-Way fridge must remain level at all times in order to function. Best suited to those looking to stay in the one place rather than constantly moving the fridge around.
• Because they are mostly run on Gas, you will also need to ensure you have good ventilation wherever you store your fridge. Never a good idea to run in an enclosed space.
• 3-Way fridges tend to be horribly inefficient running on 12v power, and will drain batteries much quicker than a compressor fridge. Whilst a 3-Way fridge will run just fine from your 12v cigarette lighter socket in your vehicle while the car is running, running the fridge from the car when it’s off is a quick way to get stuck.
• Without a compressor, 3-Way units also tend to be more heavily affected by ambient temperatures, usually only able to bring internal temperatures down to a certain amount below the ambient, rather than setting to a specific temperature like the compressor fridges.
A generator is not the answer. They are smelly (though you won't notice that if you smoke) noisy, expensive to run, an utter pain to use and store, and you need to be a quarter of a mile from the nearest person not to cause annoyance. And if you are, the gypsies will steal it anyway, unless you chain it up.
To make things worse, they are not good for charging batteries. A Genny is fine for a lot of power for a short time, but not for a little power over many hours, which is what you need to charge batteries.
Even if you could get 40A charge current into your batteries so they recharge in five hours, it will damage them.
You should never exceed 1/10 the of the battery capacity as charge current, so that's 22A for you. And recharging will take overnight.
A generator is not the answer. They are smelly (though you won't notice that if you smoke) noisy, expensive to run, an utter pain to use and store, and you need to be a quarter of a mile from the nearest person not to cause annoyance. And if you are, the gypsies will steal it anyway, unless you chain it up.
To make things worse, they are not good for charging batteries. A Genny is fine for a lot of power for a short time, but not for a little power over many hours, which is what you need to charge batteries.
Even if you could get 40A charge current into your batteries so they recharge in five hours, it will damage them.
You should never exceed 1/10 the of the battery capacity as charge current, so that's 22A for you. And recharging will take overnight.
if you are on hookup, the charger built into the van should be ample to recharge the batteries, if you leave it connected for as long as possible.
Everything that runs off mains when the hookup is on won't make a difference to the charging, only any high power 12v loads.
So unless you plug in a fan heater and an electric kettle at the same time, you should be fine. The hookup lead will be a 16A one, but some hookup points are limited to 13A or less. So the total mains electricity consumption should not be more than 3kw
I'm not sure I understand this. Are you saying that when the hookup is connected, the only thing charging your aux batteries is a 2A smart charger? That can't be right. The van should have a built-in charger that puts out 10A or more. Could a fuse have blown? Or a fuse holder melted? Hopefully you'll get a multimeter and see what the battery voltages are on hookup. They should be nearly 14v (or more) after a few hours connected.
How old are the batteries? They may need replacement. Two or three "running flat to the red light" events is all that's needed to finish batteries off.
When you buy replacements, be sure to buy heavy ones. Weight is the only reliable measure of a battery. A 12v battery should be at least 250g per Ah, preferably 300g.
It isn't good to leave batteries on permanent charge (when mh is out of use for a period) with a lot of charger its true but that isn't really meant for when you are using the batteries/mh. I dont know what you on board system is, (sorry if you had posted it earlier my memory isn't brilliant) but on EHU mine would put higher charge in (would have to check what but think it 10 amp or a little more) then when the batteries are fully charged it drops to what was thought a good rate for trickle charging.
I say what was thought to be good as it now seems it isn't good to have as high a trickle charge as was thought when my van was built in 2006. Is the smart charger you have bought for trickle charging when not in use by any chance? If you post model someone may be able to advise more.
I have found this site a good source of information, they have a few different pages relating to batteries and is all about power on campers and mh's. If you haven't already seen it I think it worth a look Motorhome/Caravan Servicing, repairs for most Battery Chargers