1st night

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Their is a utube video from sterling power products they compare the consumption of 3 types of fridges gas ,12 v and, 240v you may find informative . .sorry not nerdy enough to post the link.
 
Some people with compressor fridges tend to have huge solar set up 400 plus watts and 400 amp plus battery's.another favorite option on here is silent generator :lol-049::lol-049::lol-049::blah::blah:

thanks for the reply, just been on e-bay looking at genys theres a SIP 950watt £135 new with back up reads well, says it as battery charge capable, would something like that be any good you think?
 
thanks for the reply, just been on e-bay looking at genys theres a SIP 950watt £135 nekw with back up reads well, says it as battery charge capable, would something like that be any good you think?
best Genny is Honda , screw fix do a small lightweight 4 stroke pure signwave for about £180.as you a new to MH try a few more nights out reducing you fridge usage will help also make sure your battery is fully charged don't depend on solar this time of year .
 
Their is a utube video from sterling power products they compare the consumption of 3 types of fridges gas ,12 v and, 240v you may find informative . .sorry not nerdy enough to post the link.

[video=youtube;lQ48BgvJIJw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQ48BgvJIJw[/video]
 
Their is a utube video from sterling power products they compare the consumption of 3 types of fridges gas ,12 v and, 240v you may find informative . .sorry not nerdy enough to post the link.

Another informative video:

[video=youtube;7WADiMSJ7Yc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WADiMSJ7Yc[/video]
 
best Genny is Honda , screw fix do a small lightweight 4 stroke pure signwave for about £180.as you a new to MH try a few more nights out reducing you fridge usage will help also make sure your battery is fully charged don't depend on solar this time of year .

What do you mean by reduce fridge usage Molly, turn it off? If so will it not work out the same as it will have to ramp up to cool down again, or is there something I am missing?
 
best Genny is Honda , screw fix do a small lightweight 4 stroke pure signwave for about £180.as you a new to MH try a few more nights out reducing you fridge usage will help also make sure your battery is fully charged don't depend on solar this time of year .

reducing the usage ? is that trying to not opening the door so often ?
 
thanks for the reply, just been on e-bay looking at genys theres a SIP 950watt £135 new with back up reads well, says it as battery charge capable, would something like that be any good you think?

Those we genys are fine but dont use the 12v charge socket,do connect to ehu but you must have a good onboard charger,most that are in older vans are junk,look at this 40ah output £90
 

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If you decide on a generator you will have to park well away from others. Last time we came across one I walked round and banged on his door. 9pm at night and they were just warming some soup up in the microwave and watching the tv. I asked them to turn it off NOW so we could have some piece and quiet. As he switched it off the tv stopped working.

Cheap generators are certainly not the way to make friends. The Honda ones are quieter but you can still hear them running. You could use one of the 12v 50A versions. They are just a Honda engine strapped to an alternator. Suppose to charge the batteries very quickly.

I suppose your vehicle is expected to be on EHU all the while and no one has thought that you would ever contemplate parking by a nice beach OVERNIGHT :scared:

..
 
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What do you mean by reduce fridge usage Molly, turn it off? If so will it not work out the same as it will have to ramp up to cool down again, or is there something I am missing?
turn of until you produce about 40 amp a day don't forget that heavy discharging will kill your batterys.
 
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I suppose your vehicle is expected to be on EHU all the while and no one has thought that you would ever contemplate parking by a nice beach OVERNIGHT :scared:

..

The exact opposite, they are designed for people who keep moving on from what I can see. I don't know about OP's fridge but mine is made as a 12/24v unit. You can get it to run on 240v but it needs extra bits

Moving on (putting alternator into play) each day and stopping on a beach overnight is ideal, its when you want to stop longer it may be a problem

Edit: Also it don't have to be level for it to work, mine is also a marine fridge so can go to 30 degree angle I think it said. We have probably been washed out to see, tipped over or extremely car sick to utilise that feature though :)
 
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This thread has been getting me a little worried as to replace my fridge with a similar capacity 3 way would be at least a grand so I have started having a look round. I have only ever previously had the small 3 way fridges you used to get in caravans (Hotpoint type) so this is all new to me.

I am posting this as a bit of assurance to the original poster in case you were starting to feel a bit like I did, I have found a few saying the same thing now so it isn't all doom and gloom but it does depend on how you want to use your mh. If stopping in the same place a while you are going to need an alternative means of power (could be running the engine, big solar bank, penny, EHU). If you are Wild camping and moving frequently and your batteries are okay you should be okay from what I have found so far.

Compressor Fridges

Portable fridges will generally come as one of two varieties. The majority of fridges are what’s known as ‘Compressor Fridges’, which are sometimes also called ‘2-Way Fridges’. Compressor fridges use a small compressor unit as a means of cooling power, and often have 2 ways of powering that compressor; 12v battery power or 240v mains power (hence the term ‘2 Way’).

Pros
• As a general rule, compressor fridges are able to chill down to lower temperatures and cool more consistently than the 3-Way options, regardless of the outside ambient temperature, due to the more powerful compressor motor. This allows most of the compressor fridges to also double as freezers.
• Work well in uneven terrain – most compressor fridges will operate just as well regardless of being flat or on an incline.
• Built with 12v operation in mind, which means they run very efficiently on battery power compared to the 3 Way fridges. Cons
• Though modern portable compressor fridges are extremely quiet, there is still some audible noise when the compressor is running, similar to that of your standard home fridge (though it doesn’t run all the time).
• Compressor fridges also require a lot of extra equipment to run when not connected to mains power, such as a battery as well as a means of charging the battery, like solar panels or generators, which can cost a lot of extra dollars.
• Running on battery power means a limited supply of electricity – usually around 2 days or so depending on the size of the fridge. This means a lot of recharging the battery over the course of a prolonged holiday.



3-Way Fridges

The other option when looking at portable fridges are 3-Way fridges, so named because they have 3 means of being powered; 12v battery power, 240v mains power, and LPG Gas. 3-Way fridges lack a compressor, and instead rely on a gas flow heat exchange system located in the back of the fridge to extract heat from the fridge and cool the internal temperature.
It’s the ability to use Gas that makes these fridges appealing to travellers looking to be out away from power for extended periods of time. Using gas, a 3-Way fridge will stay cold for up to 3 weeks or more, far far longer than any battery can power their compressor counterparts on a single charge.

Pros
• A standard 9L LPG Gas bottle will run a 3-Way fridge for weeks on end, providing an incredibly efficient and cheap means of powering your portable fridge for an extended period of time.
• No need to spend a lot of extra money on batteries and charging methods; a standard 9L LPG Gas bottle is all you need.
• The heat exchange system of cooling means the fridge runs completely silent. Cons
• Due to the gas flow cooling system, a 3-Way fridge must remain level at all times in order to function. Best suited to those looking to stay in the one place rather than constantly moving the fridge around.
• Because they are mostly run on Gas, you will also need to ensure you have good ventilation wherever you store your fridge. Never a good idea to run in an enclosed space.
• 3-Way fridges tend to be horribly inefficient running on 12v power, and will drain batteries much quicker than a compressor fridge. Whilst a 3-Way fridge will run just fine from your 12v cigarette lighter socket in your vehicle while the car is running, running the fridge from the car when it’s off is a quick way to get stuck.
• Without a compressor, 3-Way units also tend to be more heavily affected by ambient temperatures, usually only able to bring internal temperatures down to a certain amount below the ambient, rather than setting to a specific temperature like the compressor fridges.
 
This thread has been getting me a little worried as to replace my fridge with a similar capacity 3 way would be at least a grand so I have started having a look round. I have only ever previously had the small 3 way fridges you used to get in caravans (Hotpoint type) so this is all new to me.

I am posting this as a bit of assurance to the original poster in case you were starting to feel a bit like I did, I have found a few saying the same thing now so it isn't all doom and gloom but it does depend on how you want to use your mh. If stopping in the same place a while you are going to need an alternative means of power (could be running the engine, big solar bank, penny, EHU). If you are Wild camping and moving frequently and your batteries are okay you should be okay from what I have found so far.

Compressor Fridges

Portable fridges will generally come as one of two varieties. The majority of fridges are what’s known as ‘Compressor Fridges’, which are sometimes also called ‘2-Way Fridges’. Compressor fridges use a small compressor unit as a means of cooling power, and often have 2 ways of powering that compressor; 12v battery power or 240v mains power (hence the term ‘2 Way’).

Pros
• As a general rule, compressor fridges are able to chill down to lower temperatures and cool more consistently than the 3-Way options, regardless of the outside ambient temperature, due to the more powerful compressor motor. This allows most of the compressor fridges to also double as freezers.
• Work well in uneven terrain – most compressor fridges will operate just as well regardless of being flat or on an incline.
• Built with 12v operation in mind, which means they run very efficiently on battery power compared to the 3 Way fridges. Cons
• Though modern portable compressor fridges are extremely quiet, there is still some audible noise when the compressor is running, similar to that of your standard home fridge (though it doesn’t run all the time).
• Compressor fridges also require a lot of extra equipment to run when not connected to mains power, such as a battery as well as a means of charging the battery, like solar panels or generators, which can cost a lot of extra dollars.
• Running on battery power means a limited supply of electricity – usually around 2 days or so depending on the size of the fridge. This means a lot of recharging the battery over the course of a prolonged holiday.



3-Way Fridges

The other option when looking at portable fridges are 3-Way fridges, so named because they have 3 means of being powered; 12v battery power, 240v mains power, and LPG Gas. 3-Way fridges lack a compressor, and instead rely on a gas flow heat exchange system located in the back of the fridge to extract heat from the fridge and cool the internal temperature.
It’s the ability to use Gas that makes these fridges appealing to travellers looking to be out away from power for extended periods of time. Using gas, a 3-Way fridge will stay cold for up to 3 weeks or more, far far longer than any battery can power their compressor counterparts on a single charge.

Pros
• A standard 9L LPG Gas bottle will run a 3-Way fridge for weeks on end, providing an incredibly efficient and cheap means of powering your portable fridge for an extended period of time.
• No need to spend a lot of extra money on batteries and charging methods; a standard 9L LPG Gas bottle is all you need.
• The heat exchange system of cooling means the fridge runs completely silent. Cons
• Due to the gas flow cooling system, a 3-Way fridge must remain level at all times in order to function. Best suited to those looking to stay in the one place rather than constantly moving the fridge around.
• Because they are mostly run on Gas, you will also need to ensure you have good ventilation wherever you store your fridge. Never a good idea to run in an enclosed space.
• 3-Way fridges tend to be horribly inefficient running on 12v power, and will drain batteries much quicker than a compressor fridge. Whilst a 3-Way fridge will run just fine from your 12v cigarette lighter socket in your vehicle while the car is running, running the fridge from the car when it’s off is a quick way to get stuck.
• Without a compressor, 3-Way units also tend to be more heavily affected by ambient temperatures, usually only able to bring internal temperatures down to a certain amount below the ambient, rather than setting to a specific temperature like the compressor fridges.

thanks for all the info, mine freezes no problem, we will be wild camping hopefully 3-4 nights then 1 hook up, I like the geny + 40amp charger reply at the moment
 
A generator is not the answer. They are smelly (though you won't notice that if you smoke) noisy, expensive to run, an utter pain to use and store, and you need to be a quarter of a mile from the nearest person not to cause annoyance. And if you are, the gypsies will steal it anyway, unless you chain it up.
To make things worse, they are not good for charging batteries. A Genny is fine for a lot of power for a short time, but not for a little power over many hours, which is what you need to charge batteries.
Even if you could get 40A charge current into your batteries so they recharge in five hours, it will damage them.
You should never exceed 1/10 the of the battery capacity as charge current, so that's 22A for you. And recharging will take overnight.

point taken that's sorts that out NO geny
 
A generator is not the answer. They are smelly (though you won't notice that if you smoke) noisy, expensive to run, an utter pain to use and store, and you need to be a quarter of a mile from the nearest person not to cause annoyance. And if you are, the gypsies will steal it anyway, unless you chain it up.
To make things worse, they are not good for charging batteries. A Genny is fine for a lot of power for a short time, but not for a little power over many hours, which is what you need to charge batteries.
Even if you could get 40A charge current into your batteries so they recharge in five hours, it will damage them.
You should never exceed 1/10 the of the battery capacity as charge current, so that's 22A for you. And recharging will take overnight.

so a 20a charger would recharge them on a EHU over night , would that leave enough to run water heater, tv etc ?
 
I've never used a MH compressor fridge so can't really compare but I'd just like to come to the defence of poor little 3-way fridges because I think the info above is a little bit misleading. Mine's a 12-year-old Dometic and it not only freezes and maintains things in the internal icebox but also manages to freeze anything on the top shelf if I don't turn it down low enough... frozen breakfast fruit is often on the menu! :rolleyes: In my experience, it's super efficient on gas, winter and summer - although I do put the external covers over the vents in the winter to help things along.

Two important points about 3-ways...
(1) Plug in to ehu for a minimum 3 hours (preferably overnight) before you leave home to get it nice and cold.
(2) They're only designed to use 12V when travelling because 12V will merely maintain the current temp, not reduce it.

I'd also agree with other comments that generators and wilding in the UK don't really sit well together except in very remote areas... but if you rely heavily on power then I can understand the attraction. I'd always favour upping the solar power and number of batteries but then I don't totally rely on electrics for anything in my van other than LED lights and the water pump... oh and I guess the gas water boiler thermostat uses a little too. Just my twopenneth :)
 
if you are on hookup, the charger built into the van should be ample to recharge the batteries, if you leave it connected for as long as possible.
Everything that runs off mains when the hookup is on won't make a difference to the charging, only any high power 12v loads.
So unless you plug in a fan heater and an electric kettle at the same time, you should be fine. The hookup lead will be a 16A one, but some hookup points are limited to 13A or less. So the total mains electricity consumption should not be more than 3kw

thanks for that, battery check 1st job when the MM traps
 
I'm not sure I understand this. Are you saying that when the hookup is connected, the only thing charging your aux batteries is a 2A smart charger? That can't be right. The van should have a built-in charger that puts out 10A or more. Could a fuse have blown? Or a fuse holder melted? Hopefully you'll get a multimeter and see what the battery voltages are on hookup. They should be nearly 14v (or more) after a few hours connected.
How old are the batteries? They may need replacement. Two or three "running flat to the red light" events is all that's needed to finish batteries off.
When you buy replacements, be sure to buy heavy ones. Weight is the only reliable measure of a battery. A 12v battery should be at least 250g per Ah, preferably 300g.

I bought a ring smart charger shortly after buying the van so I could leave it on a programme that put 0.8amps in and I could leave it on 24/7 as I was lead to believe you shouldn't leave the built in charger on 24/7.
the next setting is a 2.0 amp charge so that's what I had it on when hooked up, the built in charger hasn't been used since I got the S/ charger, so it sounds like I should use the built in one when EHU, may be just may be that is all that was wrong, if the batteries are goosed, its one of them sick but (bigger losses at sea).
hope that clears things up A BIT, thanks again
 
It isn't good to leave batteries on permanent charge (when mh is out of use for a period) with a lot of charger its true but that isn't really meant for when you are using the batteries/mh. I dont know what you on board system is, (sorry if you had posted it earlier my memory isn't brilliant) but on EHU mine would put higher charge in (would have to check what but think it 10 amp or a little more) then when the batteries are fully charged it drops to what was thought a good rate for trickle charging.

I say what was thought to be good as it now seems it isn't good to have as high a trickle charge as was thought when my van was built in 2006. Is the smart charger you have bought for trickle charging when not in use by any chance? If you post model someone may be able to advise more.

I have found this site a good source of information, they have a few different pages relating to batteries and is all about power on campers and mh's. If you haven't already seen it I think it worth a look Motorhome/Caravan Servicing, repairs for most Battery Chargers
 
It isn't good to leave batteries on permanent charge (when mh is out of use for a period) with a lot of charger its true but that isn't really meant for when you are using the batteries/mh. I dont know what you on board system is, (sorry if you had posted it earlier my memory isn't brilliant) but on EHU mine would put higher charge in (would have to check what but think it 10 amp or a little more) then when the batteries are fully charged it drops to what was thought a good rate for trickle charging.

I say what was thought to be good as it now seems it isn't good to have as high a trickle charge as was thought when my van was built in 2006. Is the smart charger you have bought for trickle charging when not in use by any chance? If you post model someone may be able to advise more.

I have found this site a good source of information, they have a few different pages relating to batteries and is all about power on campers and mh's. If you haven't already seen it I think it worth a look Motorhome/Caravan Servicing, repairs for most Battery Chargers

thanks for the reply, yes it as a trickle it puts in 0.8 amp max when its fully charged it then drops to 0.0amp and so on, my problem seems to be the fact that I used it when on the EHU, I changed the setting to 2.0 amp NOT enough should have used the built in one, (win some lose a lot)
 

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