12v or 240v FRIDGE?

[Paul38]

Why get 240V Fridge (we don't use 220V in UK)? How does £700+ saving sound as a reason?w

 

[Paul38]

We'll 220/230 then we haven't had 240 in the UK for years now ☺
I do agree with your point on price but a lash-up will always be a lash-up do the job once and do the job right

 

[merl]

230v here and im sure mainland the same.

The UK voltage label was changed years back from 240v to 230v to harmonise with the rest of Europe. This new 230v label however came with a huge tolerance of +10% - 6% which encompasses all UK and EU voltages from 216v right up to 253v so that nobody had to actually change their supply voltage at all. As a consequence we still use exactly what we've always used.....240v. Call it what you will but nothing changed except the label.

 

[wildebus]

We'll 220/230 then we haven't had 240 in the UK for years now ☺

My average voltage where I live is 243V

And we have NEVER had 220V in the UK.

I do agree with your point on price but a lash-up will always be a lash-up do the job once and do the job right

Should I bother to argue a point with someone who doesn't even know what voltage is present on a UK mains socket? nah, don't think so

 

[trevskoda]

The UK voltage label was changed years back from 240v to 230v to harmonise with the rest of Europe. This new 230v label however came with a huge tolerance of +10% - 6% which encompasses all UK and EU voltages from 216v right up to 253v so that nobody had to actually change their supply voltage at all. As a consequence we still use exactly what we've always used.....240v. Call it what you will but nothing changed except the label.

Tested mine here and reading 231v.

 

[merl]

Tested mine here and reading 231v.

Mines similar to David's and always over 240, and usually 243, highest I've seen is 245.

 

[merl]

Mines similar to David's and always over 240, and usually 243, highest I've seen is 245.

It's funny but I've got a lot of vintage electronic equipment from the 50s and 60s, way before the 'harmonisation' of UK/EU voltages when we supposedly had a standard 240v mains. Many items have a voltage adjustment plate on the rear which often enables a massive range of adjustment to the mains voltage 200-260 volts in 5 volt steps isn't unusual.
Today we see Chinese amplifiers without any adjustment available at all and supposedly suitable for the universal EU/UK voltage of 230v but plug them into a real UK supply of over 240v and they run hot due to the over voltage.

 

[mistericeman]

I remember visiting a very unassuming bungalow near to Bramhall in Cheshire (customer of my late dad's worked for the CEGB and got us on all sorts of trips)

Through the front door...
The down 3 flights of stairs into a room that looked like something out of a bond villains control room...

Basically a bunker that controlled the UKs electricity generation...
One chaps job was to sit in front of a range of TV sets each playing one channel (only 3 to choose from back then)
Whilst at the same time watching a large analogue meter reading Htz....

As soon as an advert started or programme finished.... Electric demand rose and the meter would start to drop...

This chaps job was to anticipate this happening,
pick up the phone and ask the pumped storage hydro scheme at Tan y Grisau near to Porthmadog to open a valve and start hydro generation to prevent a drop in Htz.

 

[Paul38]

240/220 it's still AC and your van primarily is DC how dose putting a house hold fridge in your van make any sense that's with out going down the road of earthing AC on the move the doors don't stay shut things fall off the shelves mostly they don't fit well they dont secure well . But there cheap ok crack on . (And just for a wind up IEC 60038)

 

[r4dent]

* The exception is refillable gas. If you are going to install an underslung gas tank, or a refillable bottle (no point in fitting two), the sooner you do it, the better sense it makes.

A lot of people, myself included, fit one refillable bottle and also have an exchange bottle.
This reduces the chances of not being able to locate suitable gas.

Main reason for having two refillable is the increased capacity.

 

[trevskoda]

Mines similar to David's and always over 240, and usually 243, highest I've seen is 245.

The mice are running to fast round the wheel.

 

[trevskoda]

240/220 it's still AC and your van primarily is DC how dose putting a house hold fridge in your van make any sense that's with out going down the road of earthing AC on the move the doors don't stay shut things fall off the shelves mostly they don't fit well they dont secure well . But there cheap ok crack on . (And just for a wind up IEC 60038)

Some of use think outside the box.

 

[Henrym]

Good evening friends.
Looking ahead to when we finally purchase a motorhome, what are peoples thoughts on powering a fridge? Pretty certain whatever we buy will have a 3 way fridge, and from what I've read they are not very good/ efficient. In our current self build we have a small 240v compressor fridge which we run very successfully with our solar panels, battery bank and inverter. Without a doubt we will replace the 3 way fridge with a compressor unit, the question is should we go with a 12 volt unit or a 240 (domestic) unit run via our leisure battery/ inverter set up? Obviously we will need a fridge unit that is roughly the same size as the unit we remove, so maybe will need a bit more power either way? I also expect a purpose made motorhome fridge will be much more expensive than a domestic one. Your thoughts and ideas are most welcome. Thanks. Colin.

Good evening friends.
Looking ahead to when we finally purchase a motorhome, what are peoples thoughts on powering a fridge? Pretty certain whatever we buy will have a 3 way fridge, and from what I've read they are not very good/ efficient. In our current self build we have a small 240v compressor fridge which we run very successfully with our solar panels, battery bank and inverter. Without a doubt we will replace the 3 way fridge with a compressor unit, the question is should we go with a 12 volt unit or a 240 (domestic) unit run via our leisure battery/ inverter set up? Obviously we will need a fridge unit that is roughly the same size as the unit we remove, so maybe will need a bit more power either way? I also expect a purpose made motorhome fridge will be much more expensive than a domestic one. Your thoughts and ideas are most welcome. Thanks. Colin.

From my experience, a compression fridge is way more efficient than a thermal fridge, i.e. a 3 way. The idea of taking 12V and using an inverter to get 230V is SO inefficient. Transformers are passive, inverters take power even if no load, but if intelligent switch off and don't come on again. I have no qualms about runing my fridge (plus security system) 24/7 even if not driving with the back-up of an 80W solar panel 8 months of the year. You need a compression fridge/fridge-freezer designed for 12 V plus solar panels.

 

[wildebus]

From my experience, a compression fridge is way more efficient than a thermal fridge, i.e. a 3 way.

Well, that is correct if you are talking about electrical efficiency. Over a typical 24 hour period, a Compressor Fridge uses approximately 1/7th the power of a 3-Way Fridge

The idea of taking 12V and using an inverter to get 230V is SO inefficient. Transformers are passive, inverters take power even if no load, but if intelligent switch off and don't come on again.

However, THAT is such an incorrect statement

I have no qualms about runing my fridge (plus security system) 24/7 even if not driving with the back-up of an 80W solar panel 8 months of the year. You need a compression fridge/fridge-freezer designed for 12 V plus solar panels.

I love the way people like to make these absolute statements
You don't NEED a 12V compressor Fridge any more than you need a 240V fridge or you need a 3-Way absorption fridge. All will work in a motorhome and what is "needed" depends on the individual.

Remember, there is more than one type of efficiency ... two key ones to consider is ENERGY efficency and also COST efficiency, and both are important for most people.

In my testing over the last 10 years or so, I have found a 240V AC Fridge draws slightly less power than a 12V DC Fridge. The use of an Inverter tips the balance over to the 12V DC fridge due to the inverters power overhead, but if you have a decent inverter, it is a very close thing.
So ENERGY efficiency wise, it is pretty even.

But COST efficiency, the difference is nowhere near close. If it was neccessary to buy an Inverter to support the AC Fridge, then of couse that cost efficiency is reduced (but still there), but if you already have an Inverter in place for other purposes, then that is not a cost that needs to be added again, and the 240V AC Compressor Fridge wins hands down when compared like-for like for fridge size and features.

 

[merl]

how dose putting a house hold fridge in your van make any sense

Thing is though, if you've already got an inverter that's keeping the other half happy because she can "do her hair properly" with a proper hairdryer and straighteners and you're already cooking using an induction hob, air fryer/ microwave and doing your toast in the morning with a domestic toaster then the van isn't primarily 12v..... it's primarily 230v so fitting a domestic fridge instead of a 12v compressor fridge and saving several hundred quid makes perfect sense to me. This is the way I'll go if/when I dump my current 3way which incidentally doesn't keep it's contents on the shelves particularly well either whilst travelling. I really don't see the issue, a 230v fridge works well, is comparable in efficiency, yep a suitable fixing method and door catch needs to be addressed and of course this will be the stumbling block for some but for those who are handy enough to take on the task then the much cheaper 240v fridge is perfectly viable surely?
As for earthing the 230v supply from the inverter, in a nutshell it's not needed. Consider a bathroom razor socket. If you want to use a 240v appliance in your bathroom at home it needs to run from a floating AC power supply (no live or neutral) via a mains isolation transformer and effectively un-earthed because it's safer. The output of an inverter is already 'floating' in this way and 'earthing' the inverter supply wouldn't give any safety benefit in the vast majority of vans, there's a strong argument that it's safer un earthed.

 

[trevskoda]

Also merl there are many usb charged razers these days, i have one which is fantastic twin head a side burn cutter unit, cost £20 and lasts a week on full charge.

 

[edina]

Why do folk try to make things harder than they need be. I have a household fridge with separate freezer compartment, cost about £100. Held in place with a simple bracket fitted to the alternative door position threaded hole on top of the fridge. Cheap adhesive child proof catches on both doors. It never gets turned off and is sometimes used as an overflow fridge when our house fridge is full or just to keep the beer cool.
If you have sufficient battery/charging then to me it’s the obvious choice.

 

[merl]

Why do folk try to make things harder than they need be. I have a household fridge with separate freezer compartment, cost about £100.

Because Chris......what you have there is merely a lash up. You need to remove it and do the job properly.

 

[alwaysared]

I know we all knock 3 way fridges but while looking around at what's available I was surprised to first of all discover the Vitrifrigo, a respected compressor fridge manufacturer also make 3 way fridges that are a direct replacement for the most common Dometic fridges and they are cheaper! I was even more surprised about what they said about them

https://www.vitrifrigo.com/en_en/products/rv-outdoor/3-ways-fridges

Regards,
Del

 

[r4dent]

I think it is time to ask Trump to resolve the issue before someone escalates it further.

Make Wild Camping Great Again.