Propex HS2000 question

[Grimola]

Hi all

I haven't posted for a while but hope someone can advise regarding the use of a newly installed Propex HS20000 heater?

I fired it up for the 1st time a few days ago and it works fine but noticed a very annoying "feature" that is part of the operation design. When the unit comes up to temperature and switches off or is manually switched off at the thermostat, the fan continues to blow cold air for 3 minutes (to purge the system I have been told). Trouble is, that this operation blows cold air into the air space that has just been heated. I was thinking of putting an on/off with in the power feed to cut all power to the unit so the fan does not come on - does anyone know the implication of doing this? I spoken to some one at Propex who said you shouldn't do this but couldn't give an explanation why - apart from saying "that's the way it was designed".

This is the 1st time I have encountered a heater that has to be cooled every time it comes up to temperature and don't like the idea if heating my van having to cool it down for 3 minutes every time the thermostat kicks in.

As I haven't used the heater on a cold winters evening as yet but can any one who has comment on if they found this a problem?

Thanks in advance

 

[ashbyspannerman]

Eberspachers and Webastos do the same, if you cut the power the heater components will be too hot inside and it will damage the heater,

 

[Byronic]

As above don't don't do it. After the unit switches off there's a residual latent heat build up which could make the heater parts hotter than when running. A bit like letting an i.c. engine turbo charger cool off after a fast long run.

 

[jeffmossy]

Most warm air outlets have flaps inside that you can close...... Wouldn't this be a easier route?

 

[martyncc]

Are you recirculating your air or taking cold air from outside

 

[Byronic]

Prop ex heaters are room sealed. The heated air that it uses to heat the van is taken from the van interior it just keeps recirculating it. The combustion takes place completely seperate and supply air is taken from and exhausted directly to the exterior. No way should the warm air supply flap to the van interior be blocked off or closed or even partially closed. Nor any of the other inlets/outlets. What the OP says is cold air is just the heated air cooling off and as it cools and because it's fan supplied ie is moving air there's a wind chill effect.

 

[hextal]

Prop ex heaters are room sealed. The heated air that it uses to heat the van is taken from the van interior it just keeps recirculating it. The combustion takes place completely seperate and supply air is taken from and exhausted directly to the exterior. No way should the warm air supply flap to the van interior be blocked off or closed or even partially closed. Nor any of the other inlets/outlets. What the OP says is cold air is just the heated air cooling off and as it cools and because it's fan supplied ie is moving air there's a wind chill effect.

Yeah. If it's anything like my propex it'll just feel relatively cold at the outlet just because you suddenly don't feel like your feet are about to melt off.

 

[Byronic]

Yeah. If it's anything like my propex it'll just feel relatively cold at the outlet just because you suddenly don't feel like your feet are about to melt off.

Could always stick your pinkies over the stove, instant heat and the cure for athletes foot.
Even with electric option a 1kW electric bar heater always feels warmer close up than a 1kW electric fan heater but in the small confines of a van the fire risk is higher. Also the convected warm air of the fan heater gets all around the van more effectively and quicker than the radiant bar heater.
I'm spouting a load of hot air now, better stop.

 

[hextal]

Could always stick your pinkies over the stove, instant heat and the cure for athletes foot.
Even with electric option a 1kW electric bar heater always feels warmer close up than a 1kW electric fan heater but in the small confines of a van the fire risk is higher. Also the convected warm air of the fan heater gets all around the van more effectively and quicker than the radiant bar heater.
I'm spouting a load of hot air now, better stop.

We've got a mwb van and I built an insulated bulkhead between the cab and habitation area. So basically the heater barely gets into it's stride before we turn if off due to heat stroke. Cracking little thing.

 

[Grimola]

Are you recirculating your air or taking cold air from outside

The manual says that it automatically recycles the air from inside the van - the air is not stone cold but defiantly cools the inside of the van

 

[Grimola]

We've got a mwb van and I built an insulated bulkhead between the cab and habitation area. So basically the heater barely gets into it's stride before we turn if off due to heat stroke. Cracking little thing.

We have the cab open to the rear living space - think I had better invest in some full length curtains!

 

[Grimola]

thanks everyone for your replies - glad i posted. I did order a 12v switch to cut power but i won't install. I now understand why the unit needs to cool after operation. I am going to use this weekend and guess it will used a lot of gas (I only have 4.5kg butane bottles. will see how long the gas lasts and may install an 11 kg gasit bottle to keep running cost down.

 

[Byronic]

I'm almost certain the 1600 models use 100 grams of gas per hour. So a 4.5kg cylinder is going to last about 45 hours continuous running, of course this time will be extended by how the thermostat is set.

 

[martyncc]

I Have a lwb movano with open cab and run a propex 2000.... my habitation intake i have ducted down from High up near the ceiling and blow the warm air at floor level . it works very well and can get temp inside into 24c when zero outside .... but there no where near as good as the eberspacher .... with that one i could get to any temp ..no mater how cold it was outside .... when the propex has done its job ... back to eberspacher for me

 

[Grimola]

I Have a lwb movano with open cab and run a propex 2000.... my habitation intake i have ducted down from High up near the ceiling and blow the warm air at floor level . it works very well and can get temp inside into 24c when zero outside .... but there no where near as good as the eberspacher .... with that one i could get to any temp ..no mater how cold it was outside .... when the propex has done its job ... back to eberspacher for me

Thanks for your reply. Yes, I was thinking of the Eberspacher as I know they kick out more heat and they are not that much more expensive in the grand scale of things. However, I understand they need regular servicing, then there was the matter if getting a fuel from the diesel tank or fuel line and as I was going to install myself didn't wan to try to get to the tank which is under the van . Also, I read they are quiet noisy (sound like a jet engine when coming up to temp) and can be a drain on the battery. As I don't plan on using the van in freezing conditions (just spring and Autumn) I decided to go for the Propex. It seems to run ok but have an issue with having to reset it every time I drive the van (3 flashing lights on thermostat - low voltage).
Been told by tech support that I need to get my electrics checked - have you had this issue?

 

[Caz]

I've had Propex and Eberspacher on different vans. They both sound like Concorde taking off and neither will work if battery is low.

I much prefer the proper caravan gas heaters, although they do use a lot of gas.

 

[hextal]

Thanks for your reply. Yes, I was thinking of the Eberspacher as I know they kick out more heat and they are not that much more expensive in the grand scale of things. However, I understand they need regular servicing, then there was the matter if getting a fuel from the diesel tank or fuel line and as I was going to install myself didn't wan to try to get to the tank which is under the van . Also, I read they are quiet noisy (sound like a jet engine when coming up to temp) and can be a drain on the battery. As I don't plan on using the van in freezing conditions (just spring and Autumn) I decided to go for the Propex. It seems to run ok but have an issue with having to reset it every time I drive the van (3 flashing lights on thermostat - low voltage).
Been told by tech support that I need to get my electrics checked - have you had this issue?

The two obvious questions I guess would be, what's the battery voltage reading when you are getting the flashes, and how long (and what thickness) is the wiring to the propex (maybe too much internal resistance?)

 

[Private]

Starter circuit

It seems to run ok but have an issue with having to reset it every time I drive the van (3 flashing lights on thermostat - low voltage).
Been told by tech support that I need to get my electrics checked - have you had this issue?

Could your heater be linked into your starter battery circuit? As it only occurs when you have driven the van it may be picking up the voltage drop created by starting the engine. Try just starting the van without moving.

 

[Grimola]

Could your heater be linked into your starter battery circuit? As it only occurs when you have driven the van it may be picking up the voltage drop created by starting the engine. Try just starting the van without moving.

The heater is not connected to the starter battery connected to 2 x 115ah exide batteries (only 8 months old)which are charged via a solar panel and sterling B2B charger and show over 13v on the volt meter. The wire run to the battery is about 4m - I think the wire is 1.5mm2 (21 amp) wire which is thicker than the wire supplier with the heater. I will start the van tonight but wont move and see if it happens again

 

[martyncc]

Thanks for your reply. Yes, I was thinking of the Eberspacher as I know they kick out more heat and they are not that much more expensive in the grand scale of things. However, I understand they need regular servicing, then there was the matter if getting a fuel from the diesel tank or fuel line and as I was going to install myself didn't wan to try to get to the tank which is under the van . Also, I read they are quiet noisy (sound like a jet engine when coming up to temp) and can be a drain on the battery. As I don't plan on using the van in freezing conditions (just spring and Autumn) I decided to go for the Propex. It seems to run ok but have an issue with having to reset it every time I drive the van (3 flashing lights on thermostat - low voltage).
Been told by tech support that I need to get my electrics checked - have you had this issue?

yes my propex is the same .. but i have found if i turn it off by turning down the thermostat its ok when i turn the thermostat back up it starts ok... if i turn it off by switching the rocker switch to the mid position i need to reset when i try to start it again ...try it see if its the same on yours