Propex HS2000 question

[Grimola]

The two obvious questions I guess would be, what's the battery voltage reading when you are getting the flashes, and how long (and what thickness) is the wiring to the propex (maybe too much internal resistance?)

The heater is not connected to the starter battery connected to 2 x 115ah exide batteries (only 8 months old)which are charged via a solar panel and sterling B2B charger and show over 13v on the volt meter. The wire run to the battery is about 4m - I think the wire is 1.5mm2 (21 amp) wire which is thicker than the wire supplier with the heater. I will start the van tonight but wont move and see if it happens again

I am no electrician - should I be using a thinner wire similar with the wire used in the loom that came with the heater. I am certain my batteries are producing enough power

 

[hextal]

The heater is not connected to the starter battery connected to 2 x 115ah exide batteries (only 8 months old)which are charged via a solar panel and sterling B2B charger and show over 13v on the volt meter. The wire run to the battery is about 4m - I think the wire is 1.5mm2 (21 amp) wire which is thicker than the wire supplier with the heater. I will start the van tonight but wont move and see if it happens again

I am no electrician - should I be using a thinner wire similar with the wire used in the loom that came with the heater. I am certain my batteries are producing enough power

Nothing is jumping out there as an obvious issue. Connections all ok?

 

[Private]

Thicker is better

The heater is not connected to the starter battery connected to 2 x 115ah exide batteries (only 8 months old)which are charged via a solar panel and sterling B2B charger and show over 13v on the volt meter. The wire run to the battery is about 4m - I think the wire is 1.5mm2 (21 amp) wire which is thicker than the wire supplier with the heater. I will start the van tonight but wont move and see if it happens again

I am no electrician - should I be using a thinner wire similar with the wire used in the loom that came with the heater. I am certain my batteries are producing enough power

No need to use thinner wire. Thicker is better & even a necessity on longer runs so no need to downgrade it.
I'm sure other members will be able to give you the technical details later.

 

[Byronic]

The fan on the Propex heater only draws 2A max. Apart from the small amount used iin the control circuitry that's it. 21A rated cable should easily manage it and negligible voltage drop over 4 metres. First thing I'd do is check all the connections are secure.

 

[Grimola]

Thanks for all your suggestions Chaps - not sure what's happening. I thought the red lighted started flashing after running the engine but got into the van last night and noticed it was flashing again even though I hadn't started the van (it had been stood for 24 hours). I reset the heater to clear the flashing red light and started the van but red light did not come on. I noticed the volt meter reading 13.7 v with engine running, when the engine is turned off the volt meter dropped to 12.7 after several minutes - the red light didn't come on again and I checked this morning and it still hadn't come on.

I will check connections and earth I think I need to invest in a multi meter. to check voltage at heater end. As mentioned I am not an electrician and this is my 1st home build which has gone really well so not surprised there are a few gremlins.

 

[Private]

Cheap

Thanks for all your suggestions Chaps - not sure what's happening. I thought the red lighted started flashing after running the engine but got into the van last night and noticed it was flashing again even though I hadn't started the van (it had been stood for 24 hours). I reset the heater to clear the flashing red light and started the van but red light did not come on. I noticed the volt meter reading 13.7 v with engine running, when the engine is turned off the volt meter dropped to 12.7 after several minutes - the red light didn't come on again and I checked this morning and it still hadn't come on.

I will check connections and earth I think I need to invest in a multi meter. to check voltage at heater end. As mentioned I am not an electrician and this is my 1st home build which has gone really well so not surprised there are a few gremlins.

You don't need to spend much on a multimeter. Everybody should have at least one of the cheapest ones (£2.87). They can save a whole lot of time when fault finding.

Digital Multimeters - Hand Held | CPC UK

 

[Grimola]

You don't need to spend much on a multimeter. Everybody should have at least one of the cheapest ones (£2.87). They can save a whole lot of time when fault finding.

Digital Multimeters - Hand Held | CPC UK

Thanks - I am going to borrow one from work and see how I get on, I guess its a bad earth or connection as it seems to happen mainly when I drive the van (just one while van was parked up). Batteries are nearly new and fully charged.
,

 

[mrbigglesworth]

Possibly a poor connection that will still give a good voltage reading but not deliver the required current?

For other Propex users, I had an intermittent fault - 2 flashes- which indicates a gas problem. Turned out to be the regulator was occasionally a bit off colour.

Mr. B.

 

[Grimola]

Possibly a poor connection that will still give a good voltage reading but not deliver the required current?

For other Propex users, I had an intermittent fault - 2 flashes- which indicates a gas problem. Turned out to be the regulator was occasionally a bit off colour.

Mr. B.

Thanks - Just thought, earth is via a long self tapping screw through the wooden floor to the floor pan - I will try running earth direct to the battery to see if any change, will do same for live.

 

[molly 2]

Eberspachers and Webastos do the same, if you cut the power the heater components will be too hot inside and it will damage the heater,

And truma

 

[Grimola]

Thanks for your reply. Yes, I was thinking of the Eberspacher as I know they kick out more heat and they are not that much more expensive in the grand scale of things. However, I understand they need regular servicing, then there was the matter if getting a fuel from the diesel tank or fuel line and as I was going to install myself didn't wan to try to get to the tank which is under the van . Also, I read they are quiet noisy (sound like a jet engine when coming up to temp) and can be a drain on the battery. As I don't plan on using the van in freezing conditions (just spring and Autumn) I decided to go for the Propex. It seems to run ok but have an issue with having to reset it every time I drive the van (3 flashing lights on thermostat - low voltage).
Been told by tech support that I need to get my electrics checked - have you had this issue?

Update ....


Sorry for late update and thanks for those who have responded (I haven't spent any time on the van lately).


After speaking to Propex, I was told that the 3 flashing LED warning could mean over voltage as well as under voltage. Max voltage for the HS2000 is 15v at which point the unit cuts out and the 3 led flash appears. I tested with a multi meter and saw that with the engine running the output from the batteries goes up to 14.8v after about a minute or so at which point the led warning appears.

I am using a sterling B2B charger with the setting for un-sealed lead acid batteries which outputs at 14.8v. I have selected "sealed lead/AGM" battery setting @14.4v and after running the engine for 5 mins the flashing LED's did not appear.

Time will tell but early indications show problem may be cured - I hope.

Hope this info may help others in the future.

 

[1 Cup]

connected

not sure wat's happening. I thought the red lighted started flashing after running the engine but got into the van last night and noticed it was flashing again even though I hadn't started the van (it had been stood for 24 hours). I reset the heater to clear the flashing red light and started the van but red light did not come on. I noticed the volt meter reading 13.7 v with engine running, when the engine is turned off the volt meter dropped to 12.7 after several minutes -

Thats good, It full 12.7
Your Batteries are/ should be connected . When engine runs should charge at upto 14 volts. The voltage will change
If your use it, your not storeing it.

 

[Grimola]

not sure wat's happening. I thought the red lighted started flashing after running the engine but got into the van last night and noticed it was flashing again even though I hadn't started the van (it had been stood for 24 hours). I reset the heater to clear the flashing red light and started the van but red light did not come on. I noticed the volt meter reading 13.7 v with engine running, when the engine is turned off the volt meter dropped to 12.7 after several minutes -

Thats good, It full 12.7
Your Batteries are/ should be connected . When engine runs should charge at upto 14 volts. The voltage will change
If your use it, your not storeing it.[/QUOTE

Cant remember what I did when I had the reading of 13.7v with engine running - probably didn't run for long enough. Will take the van for a drive the weekend and see if the flashing led appears again. Time will tell if flashing reappears when van sat around for long period - it has only done this a few times when van hasn't been started for a while. The sterling B2B charger gives out 14.8v (on unsealed lead acid battery setting) by design so the last battery voltage reading with engine running looks about right. Need to do readings with the different battery settings on the B2B charger- these should reduce the output voltage to between 14.4 and 14.1 v.