Winter proofing our Motorhome

HelenandJan

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New m/home has level three insulation however no weather proofing.

What do u full timers do to ensure freeze free winters?

Anyone stay in the Uk?

I meant re. Lagging pipes/tanks etc.
 
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think you answered it really with the last remark . hee hee
nature isnt wrong . follow the birds . etc .
 
many i know get inside barns or have covered parking . it might be dont use water tanks .use 47kg bottles outside . try to find a place where you can have ehu. farms ,industrial units . pretend to be security etc possibly get free ehu for being there . many use woob burners . heat and cooking plus hot water all in one . water tanks built around the chimney give hot water . living in a camper in winter in uk is hard .3 winters ago it was said 40,000 camp[ers hit morocco between november and april. yet med spain/portugal was full.
motor homes arent built for northern winters . self build rules .
 
Doesn't take much to bring you unstuck. Our Hobby is supposed to be pretty good in cold weather, but the first time we camped in below freezing weather, we lost our water supply. Took ages to find, but found that while all other water pipes were OK, the suction line had been routed between the wheel arch and the side wall so it was hard up against the thin fibreglass arch cover and that wasn't enough insulation to stop it freezing.
Had to pull half the kitchen apart to access it. Rerouted it, added some insulation over the wheel arch and also blew a bit of extra heated air into the double floor space. Won't happen again.
 
I'd also suggest waiting for a temperature drop and testing for cold spots around the vehicle. The test for grade 3 insulation is more a test of the capability of the fitted heater than insulation. From memory the interior has to be able to go from -15 degrees to +20 degrees in less than 4hrs, whilst the exterior ambient temp stays at -15 degrees.

I always find it intriguing that they don't then turn the heater off and time how long it takes for the internal temperature to drop back down again, that would actually test the insulation.

Also, in terms of lagging etc, remember that these will only delay the change in ambient temperature from reaching the pipe /tank etc. If they are likely to be sitting in sub zero temperatures for long then maybe heating is needed. Or chuck some antifreeze or vodka down the pipes if they are waste water.
 
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No heading off abroad for us, but in 8 years full timing we've never had much of a problem, but our pipes and main water tank are all inside, the waste tank is in an outside locker we leave the tap on this open all the time so no waste water actually stays in the tank.
 
No heading off abroad for us, but in 8 years full timing we've never had much of a problem, but our pipes and main water tank are all inside, the waste tank is in an outside locker we leave the tap on this open all the time so no waste water actually stays in the tank.
yes but you could be on your way to prison . i bet you scribble your names on the windows . ha ha .
go on tell us the truth.
or are you doomed to cell block h.
 
It might help if you tell us exactly what van you have.

You can put it in your profile ...... and remove your telephone number at the same time. Quite a few randy old WC members also have dirty white macs (for flashing purposes) and also like to make dirty phone calls. :)
 
From what I have seen of the 'winter proofing' on even the latest UK built MH's you will have your work cut out to properly insulate all the tanks/ pipes. Buy a European or Scandinavian built MH, is the way I would go.
 
It might help if you tell us exactly what van you have.

You can put it in your profile ...... and remove your telephone number at the same time. Quite a few randy old WC members also have dirty white macs (for flashing purposes) and also like to make dirty phone calls. :)


Elddis Autosignature 155
 
The cab area is usually the weak spot in these types of motorhome as the rear end will be made from insulated panels.

A thick silver screen will limit heat loss through the windscreen and driver/passenger windows but I suspect there will be little to no insulation in the door skins. The cab floor should be OK due to the normally thick soundproofing having decent thermal properties, likewise the engine bulkhead, though it may stop relatively low down the bulkhead, worth a check.
 
Ive used my homebuilt camper van just for weekends etc. through the last 3 winters. Being in SW Wales and the South generally and near the coast though, I don't think its been WAY below freezing even on the worst of occasions.

When I first got the van... it was pretty cold inside in winter, and without the Webasto on at night you'd be too cold to sleep even with a thick duvet.

I've never had issues with fresh water, as my water tank is inboard, the loo is a Thetford thingy with a top and bottom self-contained type, and my grey waste requires me to put a catch tank externally - so there is no onboard grey tank to freeze up.

But it was still cold!

I've slowly added things to help.

I replaced the flooring with laminate, and put some extra insulation with reflective foil under it.

I got rid of draughts by using the old sausage style excluders in the front footwells

I added a load of extra insulation (the heavy dense foil-faced stuff they put under laminate floors in houses) under the cab rubber matting, and then put some thick carpet over that to try and reduce cold transfer up through the cab floor

I found that the area under the kitchen units hadn't been insulated at all - so I lined it with more of the heavy stuff above.

I covered the folding bed base panels with more of the above, and then stuck carpet tiles over that - made a big difference in retaining warmth in the mattress and insulating the bed base from cold coming up through the floor (I also cut 2 sections of the heavy ins to act as mats which I can lay under the bed sections as it is drawn out to add another insulation layer - when the bed is away they just fold in half and sit under the couch section with the duvet storage).

I made some internal silver screens to reduce the heat loss through the windscreen and front doors, plus another for the sliding side door window (mine are internal and not as efficient as outside posh ones, but at least I can take them up and down from inside the vehicle - handier esp. when wildcamping) and they help quite a lot. I also have some curtains that cover the windows - mine aren't thick /heavy enough really but it does add an extra bit of insulation. More benefit could be had by adding a heavy full length curtain to pull across and divide the can area from the main hab area at night... but I've not actually done this.

I made more silver screens which attach with velcro to the lining carpet on the roof - mine are only to cover the opening Fiamma roof vents as these don't have anything in the way of insulation so will leach heat badly - covering them with a silver screen helps to keep early morning light OUT, and warmth IN. I have considered making much bigger ones to cover larger areas of the ceiling at night - as this would boost the insulation value in the roof overnight.

I can say that these tweaks have made the van a lot more comfortable and it has been slept in like this in below freezing temps overnight - without the heater on at all. It is a bit chilly in the am or if you pop to the loo in the middle of the night... but not bad at all - and in the am I just pop the Webasto on to take the edge off along with the kettle, and just hop back into bed while the kettle boils and the heater makes the space toasty.

Note that most of these things don't actually involve messing about with the main fabric of the vehicle - so they are easy to implement.

I hope this helps.

G.
 
We originally designed ours for nordkapp and similar type places, hence my slightly ott insulation.

I quickly came to the conclusion that the cab area would be the Achilles heel so built an insulated bulkhead between it and the habitation area. It has a big opening in it for light and access but I've put a double thickness thermal screen that rolls down and sits behind baffles around its perimeter. The rest of the van has 45mm insulation and the doors are also insulated (something often overlooked with a lot of vehicles as its fiddly).

Ive only used it several times as its only just about finished, but even with all that you still find the odd cold spots when testing in cold weather (around door seals etc).
 
winter in uk

I ve done 2 winters in uk in trigano tribute van conversion 2003 model.........its drawbacks are the numerous holes.......13 windows in all, drains open to air, vents etc BUT to compensate got 5 or 6 heaters.........theres the webasto diesel hot air, the gas hob or grill which is even better (carbon monoxide detectors!), individual bluet 206 gas heaters, fridge designed to give off heat into the vehicle, and the engine heater blowers if needed...... and of course your bed needs good insulation eg 20tog of duvet beneath your bed, and 25 tog on top you (2duvets etc).........steve bristol
 
My first van was an Elddis Autoquest and I used it when working around the UK, Summer and Winter.

If Elddis still have curtains that run around the cab area, add an additional layer of material for more insulation. Also switch the lever on the Dash to 'recirculate' so that you get no cold draughts blowing in.

Someone has already stated that you should leave the valve open on the waste tank. If your fresh water tank is onboard (mine was in a cupboard) then leave the door open for some warmth to get around it. If it is underslung, you could always drain it and refill each morning (keep a few 5 litre bottles of water for Tea and Coffee and washing dishes). Remember to drain it well before it can freeze up.
 
My first van was an Elddis Autoquest and I used it when working around the UK, Summer and Winter.

If Elddis still have curtains that run around the cab area, add an additional layer of material for more insulation. Also switch the lever on the Dash to 'recirculate' so that you get no cold draughts blowing in.

Someone has already stated that you should leave the valve open on the waste tank. If your fresh water tank is onboard (mine was in a cupboard) then leave the door open for some warmth to get around it. If it is underslung, you could always drain it and refill each morning (keep a few 5 litre bottles of water for Tea and Coffee and washing dishes). Remember to drain it well before it can freeze up.


Not feeling too happy about buying it now to be honest as due to circs cant get abroad till early 2016 and dont want to be restricted to Spain/portugal.
 
Not feeling too happy about buying it now to be honest as due to circs cant get abroad till early 2016 and dont want to be restricted to Spain/portugal.

It shouldn't be THAT cold - you have heating, and there are things you can do, and the winters don't usually get all that cold here, esp in the South of the country. You should be able to use the van without feeling like you're sleeping rough?
 
Not feeling too happy about buying it now to be honest as due to circs cant get abroad till early 2016 and dont want to be restricted to Spain/portugal.

It'll be fine. The whole thing with motorhomes, whether built or bought, is taking them out and figuring what needs fixing or modifying. And its pretty much an ongoing process. Short of a piano dropping on it, none of it is end-of-the-world stuff.

If you decide you want to go out in the cold cold cold weather, you can add tank heaters, relocate them inside etc etc, it's all easy stuff you can do in a weekend and its also pretty cheap. That's assuming there's even a problem in the first place.
 
If you have a British van just accept that it will be useless in the winter the only way they passed the test will be by using a large heater.
Their idea of winterising the tanks is to fit heaters so you will need to be on hook up to run them !!!!

I use my British made van all winter in Scotland, never had any problem apart from occasionally finding it too warm inside. Certainly fine down to -15 on occasion.
 

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