Welding closed a split ( small crack ) in steel rim, for a Tubeless tyre.

Geraldine

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Hi Guys,
Following on from our Hereford meet and the flat tyre. ATS found the steel rim has a small crack/hole.
I am about to explore with a Mot welder wether this can be sealed closed.
The vehicle parts for a 1987 Cabstar are hard to come by so exploring all options. We plan to sell the vehicle and of course I wish to hand it on in good nick and not with a broken spare wheel.
What are people's thoughts on the welding idea and can it be done?
Cheers.
David
 
Yes worth a go ,what have you to lose ? I would recommended a proper mig not a cheap diy joby .
 
I will not weld any wheel, they are pressed and there are a load of hidden stresses in there. The reason it split is that one of those has fatigued and it spreads around the path of the crack and will keep on going.. Buy a new one on Fleabay or the like even one from a breaker would be better.. I bought a brand new one for my Hymer from an ebay seller who had changed from steel to Alloys on a brand new Sprinter. cost £30 and £60 for a new tyre.
Wheels actually take a lot of hammer and forces, so I am surprised more do not crack up especially when they get rusty, as corrosion is the best start a crack can have.
 
I will not weld any wheel, they are pressed and there are a load of hidden stresses in there. The reason it split is that one of those has fatigued and it spreads around the path of the crack and will keep on going.. Buy a new one on Fleabay or the like even one from a breaker would be better.. I bought a brand new one for my Hymer from an ebay seller who had changed from steel to Alloys on a brand new Sprinter. cost £30 and £60 for a new tyre.
Wheels actually take a lot of hammer and forces, so I am surprised more do not crack up especially when they get rusty, as corrosion is the best start a crack can have.
Try a little stress relief, it works wonders . :lol-049:
 
I will not weld any wheel, they are pressed and there are a load of hidden stresses in there. The reason it split is that one of those has fatigued and it spreads around the path of the crack and will keep on going.. Buy a new one on Fleabay or the like even one from a breaker would be better.. I bought a brand new one for my Hymer from an ebay seller who had changed from steel to Alloys on a brand new Sprinter. cost £30 and £60 for a new tyre.
Wheels actually take a lot of hammer and forces, so I am surprised more do not crack up especially when they get rusty, as corrosion is the best start a crack can have.

hi
drill a small hole each end of crack. the heat and cooling effect might relieve any
stresses.
 
Ve hav vays of making them usable, again.

For a short time maybe, I would not like to be the one that it is traced back to when it goes tits up and bursts. My insurance does not cover things like that. Makiing things and fabricating but NOT repair of a failed item that is liable to go again. Wheels are cheap, repairs that fail are not, I would not even want them coming back whinging it was cracking further along.
 
I agree, do not weld it. I was a welder for 40+ years. I would not weld it. The parent metal is pre stressed in the making and indeed after all this is a wheel I daresay any repair would fail because of lots of technical reasons and different stresses caused after a short time, which could have unpleasant results.
 
I agree, do not weld it. I was a welder for 40+ years. I would not weld it. The parent metal is pre stressed in the making and indeed after all this is a wheel I daresay any repair would fail because of lots of technical reasons and different stresses caused after a short time, which could have unpleasant results.

Shotblasting removes the stress.
 
Shotblasting removes the stress.
Not if it is you they are shotblasting:wacko:
We used to shot peening (not shotblasting) to relieve some of the stress in metals and make it less liable to suffer from fatigue or stress fractures
 
Many years ago I used to build and race single seater stockcars. I would widen a wheel by cutting and insert a 2" steel band. The methods I used to cut the rim and then stick weld, I am a DIY welder, would horrify engineers. With all the hash and bash given to these wheels I never had a rim fail. I think a bit of perspective about a professionally carried out repair is needed.
 
Many years ago I used to build and race single seater stockcars. I would widen a wheel by cutting and insert a 2" steel band. The methods I used to cut the rim and then stick weld, I am a DIY welder, would horrify engineers. With all the hash and bash given to these wheels I never had a rim fail. I think a bit of perspective about a professionally carried out repair is needed.

STILL plenty of places out there that will "band" wheels (or even remove the centres and reverse them ...fave with our landrover guys to avoid paying extortionate prices for wide/extra off set rims like an ANR 569204/4

show1.jpg
 
If you are selling it then provide them with a can of sealant and a little compressor and throw the old wheel away. That will give them more space and if they want a spare they can go looking for one.

That's a deplorable thing to do and I hope the OP or any other would think this is a sensible or good idea to even consider.
 
That's a deplorable thing to do and I hope the OP or any other would think this is a sensible or good idea to even consider.

It is what Hymer did for me,, no spare just a compressor and a can of Glooopy stuff.. I bought a spare wheel new and a new tyre with a set of steel type wheelnuts. (shorter than alloy ones).
 
It is what Hymer did for me,, no spare just a compressor and a can of Glooopy stuff.. I bought a spare wheel new and a new tyre with a set of steel type wheelnuts. (shorter than alloy ones).

:tongue: It was a tongue 'n cheek reply :tongue:
 
Does a can of sealant work on tubeless tyres?

Yes.

But the stuff put in my tyres (as a preventative to punctures!) by the previous owner rotted out the steel wheels . full of Rust making the rim not seal and valve seat all pitted. Had to buy new rim
 

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