Got a Snap On extending bar I use for wheel nuts hopefully be OK. I found a YouTube video but they didn't show getting the disc off. They showed some bolts and it looks like threaded holes in the disc. Assume threaded bolts to push disc off like the drum brake version.Fairly straigh forward but you need to remove the caliper carrier which can be tight bolts are usually lock tighted so long extension arm an socket req
Disc usually comes off easily maybe a couple of taps to start it if it holds on the shoes you may need to slacken the adjustment which is done thru one of the stud holes and like Trev says grind off any ridge before refitting. The adjustment is a bit tricky first timeGot a Snap On extending bar I use for wheel nuts hopefully be OK. I found a YouTube video but they didn't show getting the disc off. They showed some bolts and it looks like threaded holes in the disc. Assume threaded bolts to push disc off like the drum brake version.
Got some 8 x 4 blocks of wood. Wouldn't go under it without but thanks for reminding others.Quick observation.
It's possible there is an axle stand being used in the video (I can't see one) but do not rely only on whatever jack you use for vehicle support.
Don't trust bricks either!
No offence intended.
wd40 works on brake pads and shoes too, it stops the squeak, but that's the only thing it stops !!!!How difficult is it to remove the rear brake disc and get access to brake shoes. We have disc brakes all round but the handbrake shoes are inside the drum. We have an annoying squeek when the handbrake is on so something needs some copper grease.