Water tank lagging...

RichardB

RichardB

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Hi
I am going to lag my external fresh water tank.
There are quite a few different types of silver folk stuff I can use. Any anyone recommend a a brand and what thickness would be best?
 
Thanks - I’ve got the heater pads on the tanks but was going to wrap them as well. The CAk tanks lagging looks ok but quite expensive!
 
As the new tank on our Betty build will be external I'm hoping to be able to cover it with 25mm PU sheet.
 
The pipes in our Swift were lagged. When we had the BIG freeze a few years ago the pipes inside the Mh froze. When I tried to thaw them out the lagging stopped the warm air getting to the pipes. Took ages to thaw it all out. You will probably need some form of heating for the tank.
 
Perhaps lagged pipes should have trace heat wires as well.
My motorhome has all the pipes inside the insulated body area, except the waste tank.
In -20 conditions, the waste tank still worked fine, but its drain pipe was frozen solid for several days.
Luckily, it defrosted before the tank was full.
 
Immersion tanks have a sprayed foam around the outside which you could paint over would that work - bit of ply close to shape - plastic bag over ply to enable removal after foam sprayed in - and then paint/underseal over foam
 
I read that three times before I worked it out. You mean hot water tanks with immersion heaters. Immersion tanks are something else entirely. Well, I think they are.
 
in h said:
I read that three times before I worked it out. You mean hot water tanks with immersion heaters. Immersion tanks are something else entirely. Well, I think they are.
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Yes the household immersion tank for hot water - obviously works in their use dont know if you could use a similar process for a diy job on a motorhome tank or not but provided you use a plastic sheet/bag between the foam area and boxing you should be able to get a tidy finish - using old guttering will give a curve as well with some ply - may or may not work i dont know
 
The problem with insulation is that it only slows heat transfer. It doesn't stop it. However well insulated, a tank will freeze if in temperatures below freezing. That's why motorhomes designed for winter use have the tank inside the heated part of the structure. Mine has the grey waste tank outside, but there are heating ducts by it, which improves things. It still froze after a few days of well below freezing weather, hitting -20 each night.
 
Insulation on outside tanks will only work for a few hrs below freezing,best to ither drain or fitt 12v heaters run from engine or h/up.
I drain mine in winter and use a plastic 5 ltr can for water inside the van.
 
trevskoda said:
Insulation on outside tanks will only work for a few hrs below freezing,best to ither drain or fitt 12v heaters run from engine or h/up.
I drain mine in winter and use a plastic 5 ltr can for water inside the van.
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Think the can inside works - i'd go that route and try fitting a double isolator in water supply prior to pump and run water through pump from choice of supplies at least you could use the boiler if you can do it cleanly
 
trevskoda said:
Insulation on outside tanks will only work for a few hrs below freezing,best to ither drain or fitt 12v heaters run from engine or h/up.
I drain mine in winter and use a plastic 5 ltr can for water inside the van.
Click to expand...
It does depend on the volume of water and the exposed surface area of the tank. The larger the volume the slower it will react to the ambient temperature.
Murky's uninsulated, exposed tank hasn't froze in the time we've spent in the alps during winter. The pick up tube is lagged but not very well.
It's true if it is insulated and does freeze it will be slower to thaw and insulation works both ways.
Personally I'm more annoyed with having warm drinking water.
 
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