UNDOING DUCATO 2.5 TDi CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT - Which way?

Stanski

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Have searched for info on the net, and this site, (Not a lot written about it) so have no precise info. I was expecting Anti-clockwise - but now uncertain. After spending the afternoon and evening trying to get it undone thought I'd ask the more experienced and wise members who may have met this dilemma.
Also any tips on restraining the crankshaft as putting it in gear and securing drive shafts does not work for me.
 
Stanski said:
Have searched for info on the net, and this site, (Not a lot written about it) so have no precise info. I was expecting Anti-clockwise - but now uncertain. After spending the afternoon and evening trying to get it undone thought I'd ask the more experienced and wise members who may have met this dilemma.
Also any tips on restraining the crankshaft as putting it in gear and securing drive shafts does not work for me.
Click to expand...

I've never come across a crankshaft pulley nut or bolt which is left-hand thread so I think it's unlikely, although I've never worked on a Ducato. If it is then I'd expect it to be marked, with notches or something like that.

I've always managed fine by putting it in the highest gear (important - less leverage) and having an assistant stand on the brake pedal. You kind of have to shock them a bit though; jump on the spanner, yank it hard, that sort of thing. It might have thread lock on it.

I'm not saying it definitely isn't LH thread though...

I haven't done it for years, but when I used to get stuck with something I would just ring up the nearest main dealer and confidently ask to be put through to the workshop. Then ask the first mechanic who answers the phone. Worked a few times, especially with odd things like Citroen hydraulics :)
 
Check the rotation of the crankshaft. If it rotates anti-clockwise (when viewed from the pulley end) it will be RH thread. If it is clockwise, it could be LH thread unless the bolt is captive in some way.
 
maingate said:
Check the rotation of the crankshaft. If it rotates anti-clockwise (when viewed from the pulley end) it will be RH thread. If it is clockwise, it could be LH thread unless the bolt is captive in some way.
Click to expand...

what you describe isn't that exactly how it shouldn't be?

A right hand thread OPENS when you rotate it anti-clockwise. :confused:

I agree with others posting here, a LH nut/bolt is usually marked with a grooved ring or else
 
Teutone said:
what you describe isn't that exactly how it shouldn't be?

A right hand thread OPENS when you rotate it anti-clockwise. :confused:

I agree with others posting here, a LH nut/bolt is usually marked with a grooved ring or else
Click to expand...

You have got that the wrong way round.

When a shaft starts suddenly in an anti-clockwise direction the nut or bolt tightens.

Just think about it a bit more.
 
one old dodge we used when i was in the game ,was socket on a strong arm wedge the strong arm on the deck socket on the crankshaft /pulley nut and give the starter a quick flick .never failed .mind you a lot of pullies now have three or four retaining bolts only other way is put in gear have someone press the foot brake and then use a strong arm the bolts are usually the opposite thread to the rotation of the engine .and as only honda i believe decided to make there engines run backwards
 
CRANKSHAFT PULLEY NUT REMOVAL - 2.5TDi is ANTI-CLOCKWISE (Normal)

For all in future - Do it in the daylight as I found a suitable solution. Vehicle is jacked off the ground by about 400mm to allow easy access under gearbox and sump.
Found a 6-7mm groove cut in the flywheel is accessible via a 12mm access hole near to the clutch inspection hole. Placing a suitable tool (Small head chisel), and asking SWMBO to hold it in place, then extending the lever of the 36mm socket (3/4" drive) by another 200mm to make it 500mm long, a suitable leverage can be obtained. Two largeish efforts anticlockwise (normal bolt release action ) and off it comes.

Many thanks to all who offered support.

Update on cambelt to follow.
 
On some Ducatos, it is also recommended to change the water pump while doing the timing belt (or that might be just the water pump drive belt, I am not sure). Anyway, here is a useful link when you have a query.

Ducato - The FIAT Forum
 
CAMBELT INFO for 1998 DUCATO 2.5 TDi

A couple of bits of information for anyone who is contemplating a Cambelt change for a 2.5TDi.

The camshaft pulley is only secured to the camshaft with the bolt pressure - hence the high torque to secure it, above message explains.

The cambelt for my engine has 153 teeth. (Have to wait until Monday for the kit to arrive to verify all parts)

Another version of the engine kit exists which has 152 teeth and no damper (so described by local parts supplier).
TIMING KIT = TBK0056 comprising:
1x BELT = GAT 5335XS
1x TENSIONER KIT = INA 530007309

Additional belts on the engine were:
GENERATOR BELT = GAT 6PK893
AUXILARY A/C BELT = GAT 5PK1083 (my version) or another option is GAT 5PK1103

ON THE ENGINE - Parts of the Cambelt system. (I am uncertain what is correct terminology.)
For my engine the tensioner to me is more like a damper (It is cylindrical shaped approx 20mm diameter containing what feels is an internal spring) and is fitted inside a housing which is part of the water pump casing. The spring pressure is applied to the lower left of the piston assembly.
Why I question if it is a tensioner is that I would have expected greater spring pressure - also the parts supplier quoted "Damper" from the parts catalogue.

I also discovered that the water pump housing has the engine mounting bolts and also the alternator/generator bracket attached to it, in addition to the Damper/Tensioner - which in all makes it a bit of a task to replace. I shall consider doing it over the weekend.

What started out as a £100 2 day mini project has now become a potential 6 day and near £250 exercise if water pump, new cambelt kit, all belts and tensioner/damper purchased.

Hope the info helps someone.

DO I CHANGE THE WATER PUMP?
 
Exactly as mandrake said, use a breaker bar and decent quality socket and wedge it tight then a quick flix of the starter is all you need, some crankshaft bolts have a smear of loctite on them so a bit of heat on the head of the bolt is also required first,
 
maingate said:
You have got that the wrong way round.

When a shaft starts suddenly in an anti-clockwise direction the nut or bolt tightens.

Just think about it a bit more.
Click to expand...

I take my coat! Of course you are correct! I missed one "anti" when I read your posting.
 
WATER PUMP - 2.5TDi - IS IT WORTH IT

Makes good sense - Thanks

COSTS
What was surprising is the difference in cost of the cambelt kits with tensioner, or without, Approx £120 down to £75 (without). The alternative Cambelt kit was going to be £58.
Water pump is about £48.
Gen Belt - £7.50
Aux Belt - £9.00

Other repairs:
I have also replaced the front cross member (Rusted badly) £70 - which I thought very reasonable.
Track Rod Ends - £18 each (A cheaper £8 option was not chosen)
Oil Filter - £9.50 and Oil - £27

Incompetence - £ ???
More wallet heartbreak to be revealed - needing inner strength to admit to incompetence which I shall insist was tiredness, cost yet to be determined. All will be revealed over the next week after I get the engine working. I shall be prepared then to be called silly names.
 
I've browsed through the manual but no diagram reflects the cambelt positioning that I have on my engine. Some of the details are pertinent but not all. I shall get engine details tomorrow to investigate further as I'm now more curious what I have. Off stock car racing tomorrow so may not get to do it all in the morning, could be Sunday.
 
Crank bolt

If you're struggling still to remove bolt take out the starter motor and put a socket into the ring gear teeth to stop the engine turning then break it away,or the other way is a socket onto. A long power bar immobilise the engine start then jam the power bar to the ground and give the engine a crank and it should do the trick
 
Stanski said:
I've browsed through the manual but no diagram reflects the cambelt positioning that I have on my engine. Some of the details are pertinent but not all. I shall get engine details tomorrow to investigate further as I'm now more curious what I have. Off stock car racing tomorrow so may not get to do it all in the morning, could be Sunday.
Click to expand...

I gave you a link to the Fiat Forum. You can download a manual for Fiat models which will probably be a great help. It is in EPER format, so you download it on to a DVD, not your hard drive.
 
What a great thread. Loads of input from a great bunch all with one thing in mind a FREE beer next time they meet Stanski .. Well done you lot .. Result .. Like an episode of the Archers ..
 
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