Under seal

Ratface

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Hi is It worth having your motor home under sealed has any one had it done
 
Strangely enough, my son and I have been wire brushing, scraping and spray undersealing my 2004 Moho today. Got the back half done (looks like new again), front half will be done tomorrow. Then onto cleaning and polishing the roof.
 
Forget underseal as such (the traditional style underseal can make matters worse by trapping moisture behind them)

More modern coatings...
Buzz weld/dinitrol/POR Coatings offer far superior protection with better 'creep/self healing' properties.
 
I use waxol with a rust inhibitor mixed in,but do remember its the box sections that rust from within like doors x members a pillers and d posts & under floor box sections.
Tools required to do job,parafin wash gun,small compressor about 3 to 5 cfm,hose,white spirit some rags,clip removing tool for door inner panels, and a cloths peg for ones nose as the smell in the cab will last for days .
 
mistericeman said:
Forget underseal as such (the traditional style underseal can make matters worse by trapping moisture behind them)

More modern coatings...
Buzz weld/dinitrol/POR Coatings offer far superior protection with better 'creep/self healing' properties.
Click to expand...

Agree 100% with the above - waxoyl is cheap but you need to redo it every 2 years.

Also, add Dynax UB (Bilt Hamber) to the list - excellent (but expensive) stuff. I used 10L of this on my van, and I use POR15 and Dinitrol on my series 1 land rover.
Means I can use my vehicles in all weathers / salt conditions.

Dave.
 
All box sections must be done,ie inside doors, a posts, d post chassis legs,sills.
Tools required are parafin gun white sprite hose and small compressor,plus a tool to remove door inner trim panel.
Van will stink for days after the job so if pos leave windows open through the day.
 
That's my motorhome undersealed. Hammerite Underbody Seal with Wax-oil. Next to Wax-oil inside all the box sections and doors etc. but that can wait for dry weather. I also need to finish installing my Gas-It system 2 x 6kg with fill points on both sides of the Moho. Also need to fit my Diesel heater and my new Air Suspension next week. Lookin Goooood!
 
As has been said above, most serious rust starts inside box sections and chassis rails and eats its way out, thick black underseal is far less effevtive than you may think.
I personally would run a mile from any second-hand vehicle with a coating of aftermarket underseal as it is very effective at hiding problems rather than curing them.
Spend your money on getting treatment inside the box sections instead.
 
What can I say? My van is 24 this year and the original owner spent a considerable amount of money, looking at the invoice, for underseal, and the thing still hasn't needed welding.
 
underseal

well,in my opinion under seal tends to hold the water in which could create a bigger problem long term, i had a garage several years ago and found the best treatment oil spraying underneath, there are still some small garages that do this sort of thing, obviously wax oil is a great product too
 
Reikiman said:
well,in my opinion under seal tends to hold the water in which could create a bigger problem long term, i had a garage several years ago and found the best treatment oil spraying underneath, there are still some small garages that do this sort of thing, obviously wax oil is a great product too
Click to expand...

No allowed to use oil underneath here as its a contaminate,mot will turn you down.
How would it hold in box sections and inside doors etc,its a total nonsense to use it.
 
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