Tyres - which ones?

[Tco]

Can none of you guys offer me the advice I'm looking for here?? I felt sure I would be overwhealmed with suggestions...this is a genuine query!!

Jackie

Sorry Jackie I had go off and do other things away from the computer. Jogguk has pretty well given the reply. However to be clear. In the case of going up (say) 10mm in width (as the illustration 215/70 -15 to 225/70-15)
215 is the width in mm and the 70 means that the height from the rim to the outside of the tyre is 70% of the width. So if you go up in width and retain the same aspect ratio (70%) then it means that the diameter of the tyre will increase. So this in turn means that the car will be going a tiny bit faster than before fot the same engine revolutions. Normally this will not matter too much as most speedos read a bit fast anyway. So the few percent increase will hardly be noticed.

The above is a great simplification of the actual calculations as there things like deflection against load and rolling circumference to take into account if you want to do the proper calculations. But for our purposes here that is not necessary.

On every tyre, there will be some panels which look a bit rough on the tyre wall. This is because the information changes and they insert a new part in the mould when that happens. One of these will have something like 2009 in it. This indicates that the tyre was made in week 20, in 2009. similarly it might say 48-02 which would indicate week 48 in 2002, Get the idea?

I hope this together with the other posts, answers most of your questions.

If not ask again.

Regards

Tco

Edit: We seem to have two threads here on the same subject suggesting a merge might be a good idea.

 

[Jacques le foot]

Thanks Guys, the info does help me understand. I've looked at the tyres again, and see FKPJ MkM 4104 Made in France 1120kg/2470lb 1120at 80psi. Assuming that 4140 translates as week 41, in 2004, that makes these tryes 5 years old. There doesn't appear to be any cracks in the walls, and there is still plenty of tread....but the vehicle certainly doesn't like wet grass, we've had to be towed off a couple of times. !!
We are plated to 3875kg so am I right in thinking that we are well within the tyre's limits?
Once again thank you all for help & advice..good here aint it !!

Jackie

 

[Tco]

On your VIN plate (usually under the bonnet) you will find maximum loading for each axle. Axle 1 is the front, axle 2 is the rear. it will also give the MGW (MTPLW) and the gross train weight, (MH + any trailer).

You will find that the sum of the axles weights comes to more than the MTPLW. Do not be fooled into thinking you can do this and still be legal. Take a look particularly at the rating for axle 2 as this likely to be the highest value and then compare that with the maximum loadings of the tyres. You should find that the tyres x 2 is greater than the loading for the axle 2.

In which case you will see the margin you have.

Tco

 

[BedfordMJ]

I'm not a fan of expensive branded tyres anymore I think they make them from play-doh, they don't last like they used to.
I haven't replaced my truck tyres yet but certainly for the car I ask the local tyre independent which he recommends that aren't too expensive. The last ones I had fitted were Federal and much better last winter than the Michelin energy they replaced. The Michelines were cracked all across the tread and the sidewalls and badly worn after something like 13,000 miles of careful driving.

 

[robjmckinney]

Commercial tyres

Commercial tyres have got to be the best option. hard wearing. re-inforced tyre walls, low cost. You will not be driving at high speeds so high performance tyres would be a joke and waste of money, weight carrying is key so commercial is best!

 

[Boxerman]

I fully agree but I won't buy tyres with a name I don't know. They're my only contact with the road, I want something I can trust.

Frank