Type of oil

suej

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Hi All, mechanical numpty here again with another question lo! I need to top up the oil in the engine, it's a Fiat 2.8 jtd. The handbook says Selenia turbo diesel..is there an easier obtainable alternative? What do others use? I understand it comes in different viscosity/strengths/grades??? Which do I need?
Thanks Sue :confused:
 
Hi Sue, just about any modern 10-40w, 15-40w, 15-50w, 10-50w semi-synthetic oil would be fine for your 2.8jtd as long as it is Diesel specific oil as Diesel oil has extra additives, detergents, etc that Diesel engines need because the oil gets dirty quickly.

Hope this helps.
 
Just make sure you get the correct type - Mineral, full synthetic or semi-synthetic, I understand that putting fully synthetic in a vehicle designed for semi or mineral would be harmful (causes glazing on the bores) plus a waste of money, likewise putting in meneral when designed for synthetic.
 
We would use semi synthetic 15/40 any good manufacturer. There are always deals on oils in the trade and I can't see the quality between the top manufactures being much different.
In this country I don't think it will get so cold as to need thinner oils and an engine that has clocked up a few miles and well worn would benefit from a less searching oil.
 
Thank you very much for your valuable information all. The link was very interesting Woolie as my van has a small leak, which I have had investigated but no obvious diagnosis. I don't know what type is in it at the moment does it matter if different grades or types are mixed ie semi or fully synthetic? I'd ask the garage who serviced it last but they're closed due to holidays

Sue :)
 
Hmm, that's interesting Witzend as it recommends 5/40 which contradicts other info and my handbook. Very useful site though

Sue :)
 
Thank you very much for your valuable information all. The link was very interesting Woolie as my van has a small leak, which I have had investigated but no obvious diagnosis. I don't know what type is in it at the moment does it matter if different grades or types are mixed ie semi or fully synthetic? I'd ask the garage who serviced it last but they're closed due to holidays

Sue :)

When was your vans last oil change?

We do oil changes on our own vans every 3000 miles. The most important thing to do with a diesel engine is to keep the oil clean as a part of its design is to pick up dirt. Dirty oil can lead to destroying a turbo, wearing out the oil pump and tends to find any opportunity to escape the engine.

If you have to top up the oil, is it because of the leak or engine wear do to oil not doing its job?

Have you thought about cleaning the engine down and having an oil change to find out were its leaking?
 
Castrol

From the horses mouth try this site and you'll know for sure

Or maybe not - I just put in my van reg and it suggested 0W-30 whereas the handbook recommended oil is 5W-30, I'm sure I would get a load more leaks with the thinner oil.
 
Just make sure you get the correct type - Mineral, full synthetic or semi-synthetic, I understand that putting fully synthetic in a vehicle designed for semi or mineral would be harmful (causes glazing on the bores) plus a waste of money, likewise putting in meneral when designed for synthetic.

Hi, engines are not designed for oil, engines are designed and then the optimum oil available at that time is specified.

The JTD is not a modern Diesel engine now, but oils have certainly moved on since it was conceived. As long as the oil used meets the minimum specified by the manufacturer, irrespective of whether it is mineral, semi-synth or fully synth, will be fine.

Synthetic oils are better as they maintain their ability to lubricate for longer without breaking down. Your comment about glazing on the bores comes from breaking-in a new engine running on fully synthetic oil. Basically, the oil is too slippery and instead of friction smoothing the rings and bores so that they bed in properly, a glaze can develop. Having said this, it can also result from being too gentle during the break-in period and many new engines are run on fully synthetic oils from new nowadays.

Hope this helps.
 
Hi All, mechanical numpty here again with another question lo! I need to top up the oil in the engine, it's a Fiat 2.8 jtd. The handbook says Selenia turbo diesel..is there an easier obtainable alternative? What do others use? I understand it comes in different viscosity/strengths/grades??? Which do I need?
Thanks Sue :confused:

The handbook also lists the specification of the oil, and I'd expect it to list different types for different climates. To put any old 10W40, 5W40 or whatever (which just tells you the viscosity of the oil at different temperatures) can lead to serious damage to some engines; the API and ACEA ratings are at least as important. A friend of mine destroyed his turbocharger by using an API grade of oil not recommended by the manufacturer.

Oil specifications for Fiat
 
wooie polarbear longdogcymru know what there talking about i have been working on engines since i was 11 im no coming 57,.10/40 or 15/50 is fine seme syn for turbo 5/40 also ok if you do short or frequent start stops esp in winter.change oil about 5000 mls less if you do short jurneys as the oil has not warmed up to clean engine.my skoda petrol car has covered 280000 mls runing on asda 10/40 semy sin oil so i must be geting it right and i have read just about every web page on how oil works,hope this helps regards trev.
 
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When was your vans last oil change?

We do oil changes on our own vans every 3000 miles. The most important thing to do with a diesel engine is to keep the oil clean as a part of its design is to pick up dirt. Dirty oil can lead to destroying a turbo, wearing out the oil pump and tends to find any opportunity to escape the engine.

If you have to top up the oil, is it because of the leak or engine wear do to oil not doing its job?

Have you thought about cleaning the engine down and having an oil change to find out were its leaking?



The service regime on my 2006 Peugeot Boxer 2.8 HDi shows it as 20,000 miles or 2 years which ever comes first.

Personally i think 2 years is too long inbetween oil changes so i change mine every year.

We do approx 6 - 7,000 miles a year but that will increase shortly.

Too little use can be just as bad too much use as the moisture doesn`t get burnt off and builds up inside the engine.

I`m lucky enough to be able to do the job myself and have done since the first service.

I have always used Castrol GTX 10W40 Semi-Synthetic A3,B4 and after 8 years and nearly 45,000 miles it runs better now than when i first got it brand new.

The oil i buy when it`s on offer ( normally ASDA £10 / £12 for 4 litres ) so two of them comes in at £20 /£24.

The oil filter i also buy when on offer ( normally Euro Car Parts £9 ), i also buy my other service parts at the same time whilst cheap.

The offers are round about christmas time and even though i only service it in March i buy them at the right price.

So, for between £29 and £33 approx it gets nice new clean oil & filter every year which i don`t think is too expensive.

Other people will argue differently and say it`s a waste of money, well that`s fine by me they are allowed their opinion and so am i.

This is the way i do it and it works for me and my van.
 
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Its too thin in my opinion, the 10w-40 I would agree with, the price isn't the issue its the fact it will all leak out the bottom :)
 
I have always used Castrol GTX 10W40 Semi-Synthetic A3,B4 and after 8 years and nearly 45,000 miles it runs better now than when i first got it brand new.

The oil i buy when it`s on offer ( normally ASDA £10 / £12 for 4 litres ) so two of them comes in at £20 /£24.
I use the same oil in my 2002 Fiat 2.8JTD and I have never needed to top mine up although it is 12yrs old because it doesn't leak or burn any oil, I also usually buy it from Asda Direct and use the click and collect service, Eurocarparts have Castrol Magnatec 10W40 on offer at half price £19.99 for 4ltr they also have Castrol GTX 10W40 at £16.99

 

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