Truma space/water heater element may have stopped working

[GMJ]

On our current trip we have noticed that the hot water has not been heating up to full temperature even after being on for a good long while. There is some warmth in the water but it doesn't get hot. This is on mains EHU.

We are also getting warm air blown but we think we have noticed that the MH isn't getting as warm as usual. I caveat this though as this is our first time out this winter in a cold snap so it may be us!

My question is: has anyone changed the electrical element in their Truma boiler themselves? Is it a DIY job? I'll have to confirm the model but I think its the 6E and in my memory banks I think it may have 2 elements (but happy to be corrected on that one).

I guess I'll need to test the element first so any advice on that would be helpful too.

Of course if I cant get at the boiler then this all becomes elementary (sorry!) as it seems to be well hidden somewhere at the back of our MH withing the cupboard/garage construction.

Everything works as it should do on gas btw.

Thanks for reading.

 

[Robmac]

Can't help a great deal but they are sold separately so I would imagine it is doable. (if this is the right element)

Truma Combi Elements Heating For 2E 4E 6E LPG & Diesel CE Compliant | eBay

COMBI HEATERS. Don’t worry though as this is a common issue with combi’s of all ages and is easily rectified. DIESEL HEATERS. OUTDOOR LEISURE. Collection from our Offices GARDEN ACCESSORIES. Based in Newton Abbot, Devon, Thermo Technica and TT Leisure strive to be the best in the industry.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Robmac]

Also Graham, they sell single or double so it looks like you were right about 2 elements. If only one has gone it might be worth replacing both anyway.

I would give Truma a ring, they can be very helpful.

 

[GMJ]

Ta

I'd spotted that various elements were available hence my optimism.

If it isn't a DIY job I'm less optimistic about getting it fixed ready for our trip away on 6th Jan down to Spain!

 

[GMJ]

Also Graham, they sell single or double so it looks like you were right about 2 elements. If only one has gone it might be worth replacing both anyway.

I would give Truma a ring, they can be very helpful.

That's a good shout. If I explain the situ then they may well be able to advise.

All I'll need to do then is find the blasted thing. It could be a major demolition/excavation job so that my be a show stopper for me anyway.

 

[Robmac]

Ta

I'd spotted that various elements were available hence my optimism.

If it isn't a DIY job I'm less optimistic about getting it fixed ready for our trip away on 6th Jan down to Spain!

Yes you might struggle getting a professional job at this time Graham.

Otherwise it might be a case of filling a bucket with the luke warm water, adding a kettle full of boiling water and investing in one of those 12V camping showers!

Portable Camping Shower Outdoor USB Rechargeable Electric Shower Pump k G3F6 | eBay

With a hook to let you hang the shower head overhead. The shower head securely sticks to any flat surface with the provided suction cup. 1 Shower Pump. Shower Head: 76 210mm / 3 8.3in; weight: 62g / 2.2oz.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[GMJ]

I'm not sure Mrs G will go for that in wonter (or at any time) tbh

If worst comes to worst we can heat water on the gas. When we get to Spain we use a Spanish bottle anyway as they are only around €16 to get a full exchange.

 

[r4dent]

Have you tried tracing the Flue back to he boiler. The piping is large and should be easy to follow.

 

[2cv]

Perhaps worth a watch.

 

[merl]

On our current trip we have noticed that the hot water has not been heating up to full temperature even after being on for a good long while. There is some warmth in the water but it doesn't get hot. This is on mains EHU.

We are also getting warm air blown but we think we have noticed that the MH isn't getting as warm as usual. I caveat this though as this is our first time out this winter in a cold snap so it may be us!

My question is: has anyone changed the electrical element in their Truma boiler themselves? Is it a DIY job? I'll have to confirm the model but I think its the 6E and in my memory banks I think it may have 2 elements (but happy to be corrected on that one).

I guess I'll need to test the element first so any advice on that would be helpful too.

Of course if I cant get at the boiler then this all becomes elementary (sorry!) as it seems to be well hidden somewhere at the back of our MH withing the cupboard/garage construction.

Everything works as it should do on gas btw.

Thanks for reading.

The Truma spec says the consumption is switchable, either 900W or 1800W. The elements are rated at 900W each so it would seem that there are 2 elements and either 1 or 2 is selected depending on the choice at the panel.
Heating elements are very reliable and when one does fail it normally goes completely open circuit and stops working altogether, this, coupled to the fact that you've got 2 elements suggests a very low chance that your fault is the elements. Those elements are not cheap and the job's too great to be doing on a whim (IMO) so do a bit of detective work first.
With the heater turned off plug the MH into EHU and monitor the 230V mains consumption with your home smart meter, if you haven't got a smart meter you could use a friends house that does or get yourself a plug in energy monitor. Then (with cold water in the tank) switch the hot water ONLY on and see what the mains consumption goes to, it should be 900W or 1800W higher depending on what's selected at the control panel.
If that works correctly you'll find that it's a thermostat problem and the element/s are working fine but are cutting off too early.
A little note on using a smart meter in this way. Obviously any fluctuations in the energy consumption within the house while you're doing the test will affect the reading so make sure the house consumption is in a steady state with nothing to be turned on or off in the house while you're doing the test. Be aware that fridges, freezers can cut in and out and ovens and central heating if on will fluctuate too so bear this in mind. Not hard if you've got 2 people, one in the van turning the heater on/off/high/low and the other monitoring the meter relaying the consumption figure to the van with a mobile phone.

 

[Fazerloz]

I have done mine on the 4e and if you have good access to the ends of the boiler it is easy but the elements are nearly the boiler length so you need that amount of clearance to pull them out from the duct end. If not the boiler has to come out. Connections to the heater elements are on the fan end. For testing the elements disconnect the wires and if I remember rightly the readings on a new element of 56 ohms, used elements could be a bit higher the one that was still working the reading was in the 160s ohms I think. The symptoms were exactly as you describe. I changed both elements although one was still working.
I think I may have done a thread on it.

My original post

Lately we have been on ehu a bit and using elec for the combi. It started to give out little heat and take a long time to heat the water. Suspecting a failed element I removed the heater and sure enough one element had failed. These are very easy to change if you have a considerable amount of room around your heater or as in my case I had to remove it to do the repair. For anyone likely to do their own repairs the resistance readings on my one still functioning element were 162ohms whilst the two new elements were both 56ohms. If yours is taking much more than 30mins on electric to give hot water then it s more than likely a element that has gone. If the reset button has popped you will get no warm water or heat at all.
£150 for 2 elements.

 

[Fazerloz]

The £150 was for 2 elements off Ebay nearly 2 years ago and still good. These are the ones I got and the same seller. Cheaper now than when I got some. Check it is still for 2 elements.

Truma Combi Genuine Replacement Elements 2e ,4e and 6e LPG or Diesel | eBay

Beware of none genuine and non compliant Chinese copies.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Fazerloz]

Should you do it yourself and have to remove the boiler be gentle when removing the balanced flue pipe as they become a bit brittle where they attach. Undo the clip holding the duct push it back and there is another clip inside holding the exhaust pipe on. Should it split trim it back because if you don't it will just fault on ignition.

 

[JQB]

On our current trip we have noticed that the hot water has not been heating up to full temperature even after being on for a good long while. There is some warmth in the water but it doesn't get hot. This is on mains EHU.

We are also getting warm air blown but we think we have noticed that the MH isn't getting as warm as usual. I caveat this though as this is our first time out this winter in a cold snap so it may be us!

My question is: has anyone changed the electrical element in their Truma boiler themselves? Is it a DIY job? I'll have to confirm the model but I think its the 6E and in my memory banks I think it may have 2 elements (but happy to be corrected on that one).

I guess I'll need to test the element first so any advice on that would be helpful too.

Of course if I cant get at the boiler then this all becomes elementary (sorry!) as it seems to be well hidden somewhere at the back of our MH withing the cupboard/garage construction.

Everything works as it should do on gas btw.

Thanks for reading.

 

[JQB]

How many years old is it? Hard water furs up the heat exchanger up resulting in reduced performance.
Maybe it needs de-scaling? In the Truma bumph i think they say white vinegar, maybe diluted, but needs confirming. I think you feed it in to the lower take-off until it comes out of the top, which you disconnect first of course. It's a slow process i think.

 

[GMJ]

5 years old and we don't live in a hard water area but as we trave all over I guess it would have had some in that time.

If the weather holds off today and I remember, I'll try and see if I can easily find the boiler as it's hidden. I'll take it from there then. I have had an element fail in a previously owned MH boiler and the current one is behaving exactly as that did.

 

[JQB]

5 years old and we don't live in a hard water area but as we trave all over I guess it would have had some in that time.

If the weather holds off today and I remember, I'll try and see if I can easily find the boiler as it's hidden. I'll take it from there then. I have had an element fail in a previously owned MH boiler and the current one is behaving exactly as that did.

Ah yes the boiler is hidden. Ours was built in to such an extent that there was zero access to it, zero without major dismantling of the furniture, including unscrewing the bed frame and then the six foot one piece board under that. But, that was masticed down over the gas storage. Crazy. I cut the board so that at least there is now access to the top of the heater after taking out the six foot bed frame. It would be impossible i think to remove the heater without making a thirty inch verticle cut in front of the heater and removing a section. Overall the vertical board is also six ft long with drawers and it's masticed to the gas storage, so total removal is a no no.
Thank you those idiots at Rapido. I've been told that Truma refused to work on warranty jobs or to pay out on buried units. Rapido are well known for the fact they don't care about access to stuff.
So when buyibg a van wat h out for this issue. Hope u fix your problem soon.

 

[GMJ]

Too wet yesterday and for the foreseeable so maybe I'll get out there and have a look sometime between Xmas and NY. I suspect that it may well be a very large excavation job on my MH too, so will probably have to wait until we get back from Spain in March. We can use the single element for basic space/water heating if we are on EHU and use gas when not, so it's not a show stopper.

 

[Frosty0558]

Hi just to let you know this is not a complex job but from my experience of when I replaced the heating elements in our 6E unit you need to remove the whole unit to enable you to strip it down and have the space to remove the elements.

I bought the elements on eBay and replaced both even though only one was faulty.

I attach a couple of photos to show you when I did mine on the kitchen worktop

 

[wildebus]

5 years old and we don't live in a hard water area but as we trave all over I guess it would have had some in that time.

If the weather holds off today and I remember, I'll try and see if I can easily find the boiler as it's hidden. I'll take it from there then. I have had an element fail in a previously owned MH boiler and the current one is behaving exactly as that did.

At a rough guess, right by the exhaust vent as seems most logical? Or very close to the drain valve?
My water boiler is a few inches from the wall vent and the room heater vent is on the roof directly above the heater.