This victron thingy

[1 Cup]

So can I add 400a fuse to multi inverter / charger at start of wire inside cover then plug straight to battery bus bar ? As im using Anderson plugs. 35mm, for now but not constantly. but I'm looking for 70mm wire connection's if out there. 2023 jan.

And can I plug and play or do I need the head set or rasp pi ? as im into plug and play by dip switches. If they are set out of box for 12

 

[st3v3]

It will work out of the box, but will be set to 16A input, I think.

That's not going to be a problem, until you are on hookup and turn on more than 13A of stuff. (And that includes the amount the charger is taking)

Edit: Fuses need to be wherever is the source of the power. So, next to the battery. No fuse is needed inside the multiplus as it can only supply 100A, your cables will be capable of much more.

 

[wildebus]

So can I add 400a fuse to multi inverter / charger at start of wire inside cover then plug straight to battery bus bar ? As im using Anderson plugs. 35mm, for now but not constantly. but I'm looking for 70mm wire connection's if out there. 2023 jan.

And can I plug and play or do I need the head set or rasp pi ? as im into plug and play by dip switches. If they are set out of box for 12

It will work out of the box, but will be set to 16A input, I think.

That's not going to be a problem, until you are on hookup and turn on more than 13A of stuff. (And that includes the amount the charger is taking)

Edit: Fuses need to be wherever is the source of the power. So, next to the battery. No fuse is needed inside the multiplus as it can only supply 16A, your cables will be capable of much more.

I am guessing the 400A fuse comment is for the DC side and not the AC side.

Now in terms of Fuse location, the point of the fuse being close to the source of the power is important, but take into account the Multiplus is also a source of power so fuses are relevant at both ends. The Multiplus will have an internal DC fuse so you would not want/need to add an fuse inside the box (and there would not be room anyway).
If your DC cable run was quite long, or you were running a cable through a metal panel, you might want to fit a fuse on the Multiplus side of the cable as well as the battery side as a precaution. But it is always a good idea to make that DC cable from Multiplus to Battery as short as you can anyway.
You are using 35mm2 cable with the intention of changing to 70mm2 later on? If you have a look at the connections inside the Multiplus 12/3000/120, you will see there are 2 big bolts for -ve, and another 2 for +ve. So you could if it suits add a 2nd 35mm2 cable alongside the first one to give you the 70mm2 cable required.

Anderson plugs are very handy for installations where you need to move stuff around, connect and disconnect kit, try out different options, etc, but I don't see a real use for them in an installation where you have a permanent battery bank connected to an installed Multiplus. Why are you particularly looking to use Anderson Plugs at all? I'd just use straight ring terminals on the Multiplus going to ring terminals on the battery connections, via Fuse Holder/Isolation Switch as appropriate (again probably with Ring terminals on those being the most common).

 

[st3v3]

...., you might want to fit a fuse on the Multiplus side of the cable as well as the battery side as a precaution.

What size fuse would you fit on that 100A overcurrent protected output? Remembering of course, it needs to be able to carry c. 250A in the other direction

 

[wildebus]

What size fuse would you fit on that 100A overcurrent protected output? Remembering of course, it needs to be able to carry c. 250A in the other direction

Are you referring to AC output or DC output? for a Multiplus there is no such thing as a DC Output - the DC circuit is bi-directional and you cater for the largest current no matter what direction the current flows.

The Victron recommended DC fuse size for the 12/3000/120 Multiplus is 400A so I would probably fit that or possibly a little smaller (on the plastic-cased versions of the Multipluses I tend to fit a fuse smaller than the built-in fuse as it is a lot easier to replace an external fuse than it is to take an MP apart to replace an internal one).

On the AC side, fuses don't apply - you would use breakers.

 

[st3v3]

DC side. My point is, the multiplus will never generate enough current to pop a 400A fuse, so at the multiplus end, it's redundant. And it has to be 400A and not anything smaller, because the current to power the inverter has to go through it.

 

[1 Cup]

DC
The Anderson plug is my switch ! As I have many leads x6 already. But will refit it end of January. DC The Run is less than 10m temp and when fitted less than a meter.with fuses and or brakers upto 400amps, if I can find them that take 70mm wire.,! Sercurly
230v
Output
Yes will fit 230 fuse box for out put x3 breakers 1 being rcd 10 m run to twin sockets. X2 32amp flat 3 core wire to hob
Input
Should I run ehu through 240 fuse box ? Or plug socket as I don't think I'll ever get 16amp only 13amp max though the orange lead to van

These people don't like helping with quick fitting in there book . Lol

.

 

[st3v3]

You shouldn't use twin and earth household mains cable mate, it's one single piece of copper in each conductor and doesn't like vibration. Use a 2.5mm2 round 3 core flex (can be thinner for any low current stuff). I've got miles of it here if you want some....

 

[1 Cup]

No, its the braded 32amp wire to the hob scockets to 240 fuse box steve .I run that behind wall panels I've future proofed that wire.when walls when up.

What size wire from inverter output to 240 fuse box ?. For 6 scockets 4 for charging only

 

[wildebus]

DC side. My point is, the multiplus will never generate enough current to pop a 400A fuse, so at the multiplus end, it's redundant. And it has to be 400A and not anything smaller, because the current to power the inverter has to go through it.

You install your way, I install my way

 

[st3v3]

What size wire from inverter output to 240 fuse box ?. For 6 scockets 4 for charging only

2.5mm2.

 

[merl]

So can I add 400a fuse to multi inverter / charger at start of wire inside cover then plug straight to battery bus bar ? As im using Anderson plugs. 35mm, for now but not constantly. but I'm looking for 70mm wire connection's if out there. 2023 jan.

And can I plug and play or do I need the head set or rasp pi ? as im into plug and play by dip switches. If they are set out of box for 12

Pointless adding a fuse at the multiplus end if there's already one built into the multiplus, you're simply adding more resistance and you really want top keep the resistance as low as possible.
Fuse at the battery end as close to the source (battery) as practically as possible, I'd be tempted to go as high as possible with the fuse rating again to keep the resistance down, even a 400A/500A fuse has a significant resistance when you start drawing high inverter currents but would 'pop' relatively easily in the event of a battery short circuit with 70mm hook up cable.
Doubling up the 35mm to reduce the wiring resistance would be easier than sourcing and working with 70mm cable, 2 X 32mm is much easier to route and terminate with ring lugs. I crimp AND solder personally for long term lowest resistance but I'm used to soldering. Dip the stripped cable in a little flux and warm the cable to get the flux to liquify and penetrate the strands before crimping. Heat the lug and then apply the solder to the inspection hole in the lug and stop feeding solder and remove heat preferably before and certainly immediately it appears at the cable end, ideally you dont want solder creeping down the cable and ruining it's flexibility, a short piece of heatshrink sleeve over the final joint looks pro.
Avoid the Andersons if you can, again they introduce more resistance.
The 24V system (which I think you opted for?) is only half as sensitive to circuit resistance as the 12V but still best to get it as low as reasonably possible wherever you can.