Trotter
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Now that was very informative, doncha think.well that’s a typo for sure
The specs for Dometic 3 way show 2 to 2.2 Kwh per 24 hours, so that's getting towards a average of 100w
Why don't you post a link to the thread?
He's usually very good on these things, so is it peak power, or a big fridge, or just that Dometic are a little optimistic?
Either way, running a 3 way on 12v isn't very efficient.
I've only just mastered posting a photo on here. Posting a link would be, One step beyond.Why don't you post a link to the thread?
He's usually very good on these things, so is it peak power, or a big fridge, or just that Dometic are a little optimistic?
Either way, running a 3 way on 12v isn't very efficient.
Madness - One Step Beyond (Official Video) - YouTubeI've only just mastered posting a photo on here. Posting a link would be, One step beyond.
Now some clever sod is going to put a Madness video up.
Thanks for the explanation.A more meaningful guide to the amount of electricity is kwh (or ah) per 24 hours.
Watts is just a way of saying how quickly power is consumed and thus what size fuse & wire are appropriate.
A typical 3 way absorbtion fridge will use 2 to 3 kwh per day on 230v (running on 12v is only applicable when engine running.
If the power is using an inverted then battery use is 2000 or 3000 / 12 ah = over 200 ah so that is a flat battery in no time.
Before fitting a fridge please research the difference between compression & absorption and define your proposed use.
Yes I totally agree, why would you run a 3 way absorption fridge offline using leccy.
They are designed for gas use when offline.
Thanks for the explanation.
My van is a tailor made and comes with the Thetford already fitted. I've increased the battery bank significantly, and have been exploring their boundaries. I do successfully run a 12v compressor freezer. Should the Thetford fail, I'd install a 12v compressor fridge as a matter of course.
A top-opening chest fridge or freezer is the most efficient design as much less cold air is lost when opening it up. I think this is why the Waeco CoolFreeze compressor coolboxes are more efficient than their conventional 12V compressor fridges despite having the same compressor.The freezer I bought is one of the Chinese small chest fridge/freezers. From memory about 18 ltr. Big enough as a freezer, probably a bit small as a fridge, especially as a milk bottle wouldn't stand upright. If replacing the Thetford, I'd get a 30 - 40 ltr chest fridge, put on draw runners using the recess the fridge site and the "air space" behind the fridge would/should be long enough to pull the fridge or freezer into the aisle.
That's the theory anyway.
Cold air sinksA top-opening chest fridge or freezer is the most efficient design as much less cold air is lost when opening it up. I think this is why the Waeco CoolFreeze compressor coolboxes are more efficient than their conventional 12V compressor fridges despite having the same compressor.
Didn’t see this last night, possibly an edit by Dave after I’d shut down.A top-opening chest fridge or freezer is the most efficient design as much less cold air is lost when opening it up. I think this is why the Waeco CoolFreeze compressor coolboxes are more efficient than their conventional 12V compressor fridges despite having the same compressor.
You can also get full extension draw runners so wouldn't need to have any space behind if you didn't want to
This is the little kitchen pod I made for my T4 from an IKEA kitchen unit...
image.jpg15 by David, on Flickr image.jpg14 by David, on Flickr