Tekaloid paint question

mariesnowgoose

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I've been pondering whether I should bother giving our old rust bucket a hand-brushed coat of paint to cheer her up a bit.
Bear in mind it's a monocoque fiberglass back body, metal cab.

Talking to Dave (of Dave and Mary) last week, he says they've always use tekaloid paint and, contrary to what I've been told elsewhere, only one coat of undercoat and topcoat is required to give a good finish.

Saw some photos of the vehicles they'd worked on over the years and they were very impressive!

What I need to know is where's best to paint the old girl.

Do you do it outside when you've got a longish spell of good weather forecast, or does it need to be done undercover?

I know someone local who will rent out his industrial shed for a very reasonable rate.

Any thoughts or advice anyone?

PS. Already posted this question in the Knowledge Base section, but it doesn't show up under recent posts :(


 
trucks and buses were using it for years . i have used it loads of times ideal for brushing ,rollering or spraying .
must say havent seen it around for awhile . we went on to pearl paints .these days i use teamac .industrial paints . again sprays rollers or brushes .
yes do it on a good sunny day . if spraying we either warm it then spray or add some thinners and sometimes some two pack hardner.
its not expensive . we get it at mole valley farm supplies but i,m sure someone in your area sells it .
if brushing get a good quality brush nice and soft .
 
SIGMA at Deeside do a very good industrial vehicle paint, goes on very thick before it runs to give a great finish.
 
Indoors definitely best this time of year, a sudden gust of wind blown dust on wet paint brings tears to the eyes. Saying that the most pleasant conditions for vehicle painting are naturally enough outside on nice warm wind free day, but in the shade (never paint directly in the sun). so realistically that would be next year?
If you have large flat areas to paint, a foam roller can give a better finish than brush, but brush can be used to do the cutting-in around door shuts/handles and the trickier bits. This time of year it's essential to make certain the air relative humidity is low. Humid air is not a good paint environment, a thin layer of condensation on a surface to be painted = misery. Prepping the existing paintwork is as the instructions will no doubt state on the paint tin... everything.
 
If it's a barn or similar, it's worth hanging a tarp above the van cos sparrows etc can cause a mess.
 
After using this paint for over 25 years got to disagree with a few things that have been said ( all in good taste ) Tekaloid is still available, for best results I would always us a brush so you can move the paint all ways. It does go on a lot better if things are worm, one way I used to achieve his was by putting a heater inside the vehicle. There is a company in Luton who still supply this paint, and the brushing thinners. This could be another job for the fix it meet lol.
a few pictures of vehicals done with Tekaloid paint.


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Will always give you a hand doing it if you can get it inside.
 

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hi dave . havent seen it round here for ages . i just thought it may have finished as all the places that did sell it went to pearl paints . these days they all sell this teamac .
mind i used to like valspar or brushing belco. but they do seem paint from the past.
i did like tekaloid . good to know its still available .
best not use a broom though .ha ha .
 
Smith and Allan down in Darlington do tekaloid :)

Search Results: Smith & Allan stock a wide range of oils and lubricants for car and motorcycle engines. Buy online now.

Thanks for the offer of a hand, Dave and Mary.

It's getting to the wrong time of the year, so I'm thinking next spring/summer?

The local chap has a big industrial metal shed (I think) and there may be heating available if it's possible to do it over the winter?

I shall ponder on :)

The biggest decision for me (well, him indoors really, cos I won't get my own way on this one) is which colour, but Smith and Allan seem to be able to mix up to various colour charts so plenty of choice ;)
 
Super paint to use but thin it SLIGHTLY to ease the brush a wee bit. I suggest you buy a small plastic paint pot from any decorators suppliers and use a quantity from the original tin, then thin to suit. Keeping the panel warm before painting is best and if you can manage indoors all the better. Don't rub down any runs for a month though, it takes time to cure properly.
 
Super paint to use but thin it SLIGHTLY to ease the brush a wee bit. I suggest you buy a small plastic paint pot from any decorators suppliers and use a quantity from the original tin, then thin to suit. Keeping the panel warm before painting is best and if you can manage indoors all the better. Don't rub down any runs for a month though, it takes time to cure properly.


RUNS WHAT ARE THEY GO AND WASH YOU MOUTH OUT. runs are something you do after eating foreign food not when painting lol


:drive: :drive:
 
I've been pondering whether I should bother giving our old rust bucket a hand-brushed coat of paint to cheer her up a bit.
Bear in mind it's a monocoque fiberglass back body, metal cab.

Talking to Dave (of Dave and Mary) last week, he says they've always use tekaloid paint and, contrary to what I've been told elsewhere, only one coat of undercoat and topcoat is required to give a good finish.

Saw some photos of the vehicles they'd worked on over the years and they were very impressive!

What I need to know is where's best to paint the old girl.

Do you do it outside when you've got a longish spell of good weather forecast, or does it need to be done undercover?

I know someone local who will rent out his industrial shed for a very reasonable rate.

Any thoughts or advice anyone?

PS. Already posted this question in the Knowledge Base section, but it doesn't show up under recent posts :(






You might some useful info in here :- Coachpainting Info

I put it in another thread a while back and i think it helped.
 
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Way back in the 70s I bought a Landrover from the government auctions. It was in matt camouflage,so I decided to paint it,I used Tekaloid French Blue and after cleaning an prepping the body I proceeded I did thin down very slightly and used virgin brushes and I was given the tip to put it in a warm water bath. I painted it on a couple of dry autumn days,but I also put up a couple of screens on the windward side as a precaution to the occasional flying dust.
 
It is worth spending a few extra pounds on a proper Coach Painting Brush, they really are worth the extra money.
 
Hmm. That's a good thought, Win, thank you.

More decisions to make! :lol-053: ;)

....funnily enough, I've just used some International Paint (outdoor paint for wood and metal) for doing up some garden furniture this year and it was brilliant, really good to paint with and super finish.
Got it for a fantastic price off fleabay :)
 
did our van in the summer and used rustoleum realy good finish . used mohair roller and haris brush pleased with result . ;) stan
 
Hi all , i've used celyulose on a few ocasions , spray it on in the sun,let it harden for five or six days and then polish it up with an electric mop , shines like glass.
 
if you have spray equipment then i would use a two pack paint . i have used it alot in the past. beware its best to have an airfed mask.
but now we are along way from brushing a nice coat of synthetic on a camper .
ideally warm dry weather and go for it . yes inside a building is possibly best . yet i have done loads of big commercials outside mine included and sometimes they come out better than a spray booth job .
even a few brush marks dont matter . must be better looking with a spruce of nice new paint .
do a panel a day if you dont have enough time to do it all . you only see one side at a time .
as one of my mates says to any paint job .

well it,ll look lovely with a bit of a polish ...
he says that to concourse winners just to wind them up.
 

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