Different but associated point ...
I like to have either (but preferably BOTH) a "catastophic
fuse" (i.e. big bugger) or an isolation switch which allows the
battery bank to be isolated from all the habitation and charging circuitry.
If you have this feature, which is neither expensive to buy or hard to fit, then it is dead simple to separate the batteries from the wiring to allow them to be worked on easily, or at the same time allow you to work on the wiring without the system being live.
If I were the OP, I would add a
fuse and switch when I swapped over the batteries
example of a switch -
https://amzn.to/3CcxiDa. Lots of similar ones around
example of a catastophic
fuse kit -
https://amzn.to/3m4QPQ1. And get an appropriate
fuse, which would be larger than any loads you could put on the system, and smaller than the amapacity of the
battery cable you are using.
FWIW, this is my setup -
MONTY fuses by
David, on Flickr
I actually have a 1+2 Isolation Switch as I have a Hybrid
Battery Bank, but usually a standard on/off one (as per my link) is what is wanted.
My
fuse is 225A If I recall.
This is under the ampacity (current rating) of the 35mm2 cable I am using, but greater than any possible normal load or charge I can put on my system (I can draw a maximum of 135A on the
Inverter, 20A on the Habitation Electrics and 20A on External connections = absolute maximum of 175 Amps. I can charge a theoretical maximum of 70A Mains + 60A B2B + 40A
Solar = 170 Amps maximum. Neither of the Load or Charge currents will ever happen at that level in reality, but it IS possible, so you plan for it, same as you plan for fuses even though they will probably never blow)