spray job

trevskoda said:
as a pro sprayer first allways use a industral two pack epoxy primer zink rich then polyurathan two pack.when prraying use a gravity spray gun with all 3 controls fan air and paint try geting you hand on a binks 630 or awata w71 gun .about 7 to 11 cubic feet compressor plenty of light to see paint shine back as you are painting ,plus try and use a 1.5 to 2 mil flued nozel and no more than about 5% thiners in paint,one coat will do as this can be laid on 10 thu wet drying to about 5 thu,it will not run like car two pack which is piss,a hint you could try sigmathane or jutin clark,dont use international it will run.always were breating aporatus,air feed mask etc,good luck here are a few pics of small jobs i have dun.the life boats were in shipyard harland &wolf the yellow soda was mine which i resprayed crome yellow untill a sod in a transit doing abot 60mph parked in my rear the marron soda was smashed n/side to windsheild which i rebuilt and painted,the susuki 500 gt i built from a basket case for bro in law and resprayed, i akso did a lot of fire places and garden gates for folk,hope you like picys
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yellow Skoda looks snazzy .
 
shawbags said:
There is a definate knack to it , experience is the key .
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the more you do it the better you will get ,ok there will be a limit to the Finnish you can achieve without all the professional equipment and the years of experience of pro painters ,but perfectly acceptable finishes can be achieved with patience and a little care
 
Thanks everybody,I conclude that if you want a proper job,pay a professional.Nice work Trevskoda.
As my van is probably only worth £2,000,(priceless to me !),I'll live with the look.
 
Skar said:
This is worth a read:

http://www.club80-90.co.uk/pages/downloads/tech/paintfor%A350.pdf
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its a oil xileen base paint a bit like turnol not worth a s--t ,ok for painting wheel barrows or the like but not recignised in anticorrosive trade bit like hammerite rubbish,though it would do for a old banger but two pack is way a head and only one coat no rubbing down if you practice a bit and touch dry in a few hours ,rock hard the next day,i just got some 10 c 31 tk cream for my van 35 bucks plus vat with hardner 5 ltr pack polyurathane,not a bad price,but who am i to tell someone how to paint as life is to short ,lets all just go camping. :have fun::camper::cheers::goodluck::wave::wave::wave::wave::wave::wave::wave::wave:
 
Rodeo said:
You could try hand painting it with roller and brush.Some good you tube vids on it using rustoleum.Ive seen some of the results up close and they are very good.Prepping is the key to success.
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MARCELL GUEST Manchester used to make a special paint specifically for hand painting .Did a Thames 15cwt van with it about 38 yrs ago a great finish, as stated preping the vehicle is important
 
have soda will travel, its a hardner that cures the paint added at 4/1 ratio,though there is a moisture cured poly but very few would use this as its not for cars/vans,we once done about 40 aa phone boxes with it and it was aufull stuff.boats are first painted with epoxy to grip g/fibre then poly over top sometimes rolled and struck of with brush to dispell bubbles.as for cars i strip them right down all glass out window rubbers of etc ,more pro job and thats how its is in motor trade.a good gun is the trick and time .cellulose went out with nelsons eye to easy to bloom and to thin also requiring many coats and heat.two pack is easy but you must were a good mask and gloves plus wet floor before spraying to keep dust down,if you have rafters in garage staple some builder poly to them to stop dust also ,just a few we tips to help.
 
I don't think you can beat a top quality spray job in 2 pack nice deep shine and a finish as smooth as glass but your talking good money as stated so if it was a choice between a patch work affect of rust and rattle cans or a real p1ss poor blow over i would rather see a vehicle lovingly hand painted by brush or roller as long as your keeping those tin worms at bay (at the end of the day its whats on the inside that counts) :heart::heart:
John
 
I agree with^^^^........Whatever youre using, if it feels right for you then so be it.
 
no disrespect to your van ,but is the van worth spending upwards of a couple of grand on just for shiny paint .if there are any large rust areas or even holes then they will have to be attended to ,usualy by cutting out the rust/rot areas because no matter what rust inhibitor you use and there fantastic clames of killing rust they dont they just delay the inevetable. after 50 years of running rusty motors i have found you can only get rid of rust by cutting out the area back to good metal once mild steel starts to rust/rot you cannot stop it i was in the motor trade and unless you cut out rust/rot replace with good metal then you might as well forget it the rust will spread under the new paint and well start lifting the paint
 
mandrake said:
it is the prep thats the hardest ,you hear many say save a few quid and prepare the body work yourself ,no if you dont do a perfect job on the prep then any money spent on the spray job will be a waste of money as the van will look terrible , ok it may shine but it will look bad .if your van isent covered in rust rot or dents then cut back the whole of the body with compound with a buffer or mop ,you can buy them quite cheaply .then attend to any rust area there are lots of products nowadays for the diy er and as you learn to fill the areas that need attention you will learn and get better at it .then try to spray the repaired areas yourself you will soon pick it all up ,and you will be surprised how good a job you will be able to achieve ,and the satisfaction you will get by doing it yourself will be immense .( how easy is it? i can do it and achieve good results) and lots of other people can do the same .its not rocket science and many sprayers make out its difficult, its not
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I've used VIM in the distant past, it's a good cheap abrasive.
 
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