Solar to MPPT Victron 75/15

That’s what I thought I could do from the fuse board like the one you showed me.
Input all the negatives on the negative side and then cable the negative side to the shunt and the positive side to the battery?
 
Yep, you can do that ( sorry but didn't realise that the fuse box I'd linked to had a negative busbar too incorporated) .
Just bear in mind that the new solar neg must go to either the new fuse box neg or the shunt terminal that goes to the fuse box neg. The other side of the shunt goes to the battery neg and nothing else👍
 
I originally fitted an isolator in the line from solar panels to solar controller but after a while I fitted a 2 way blade fuse holder instead. I put both + and - cables through a fuse each. Been like it now for years and doesn't seem to cause any problems
 
Alshymer said:
So, all the small positive leads from the
+ battery go to the fuse holder positive and all the small negative feeds that currently go to the Victron Shunt go to the fuse holder negative.
Then just one + cable from fuse holder to + battery terminal and one negative from the fuse holder to the out of the shunt?
That would look prettier!!
I so appreciate all your help in this as ever.
Regards
Martin
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No the small leads go to fuses, one fuse for each utility, then one big feed from battery to pos termanal on the board, neg from bat to neg on f block
 
Hi. Thanks but I thought the only negative on the battery should be from the shunt.
Therefore the negative from the fuse board should go to the shunt otherwise all the utilities on the fuse board are bypassing the shunt.
Correct me if I am wrong.
 
Hi Sorry!!!!
I note that I have 2 red wires from a large 50amp fuse that were connected directly to the battery.
Can I connect these to the fuse board? Is a 50 amp fuse available that would fit?
 
Alshymer said:
Hi Sorry!!!!
I note that I have 2 red wires from a large 50amp fuse that were connected directly to the battery.
Can I connect these to the fuse board? Is a 50 amp fuse available that would fit?
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Not at 50 amps, only low ampage utilities like lights usb plugs toilet flush and a radio etc, max i think is about 30amps, most of mine are 5/15 at most.
You best bet if not sure about electrics is get someone who knows to look over it.
 
trevskoda said:
Only require to break the pos line in.
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I know that Trev. I was mis-remembering anyway. I knew I had used both fuses but I was forgetting I have two sets of cables coming from my panels, (I use two controllers). It is only positive I fused, one for each panel
 
trevskoda said:
Not at 50 amps, only low ampage utilities like lights usb plugs toilet flush and a radio etc, max i think is about 30amps, most of mine are 5/15 at most.
You best bet if not sure about electrics is get someone who knows to look over it.
Click to expand...
Just for info, the standard size Blade ('ATO') Fuses go up to 40A. They go down to 2A as the lowest I think (never seen smaller than 2A).
But having said that, while I have spare 40A and 35A fuses, I have never actually used them and anything at 30A or bigger I much prefer using the MIDI style bolt-down fuse style as they suffer less from corrosion and contact issues.
 
Alshymer said:
The 50 amp fuse holder was put in by Vanbitz.
I guess I had better connect those 2 leads to the battery direct then.
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This is always an issue because you can't get a multi-purpose fuse holder that covers the whole range. Looks like you're going to have a blade fuse box and then a couple of separate large single stand alone fuses. If you were fastidious you could buy a 2 or 3 way ANL fuse box to do the big stuff.but if you mount the large fuses side by side neatly it's nearly as neat.
What you can do is connect just one (fat) cable from the battery to the 50A vanbits fuse and then loop out of the fuse input and into your new ANL fuse and then loop again out of that and into your blade fuse box. That way you only have one feed off of the battery 👍
 
As above, hence i showed the trip type fuses, i use one for my fridge, always go a bit bigger, so if you require a 30 anp trip fit a 40 or bigger if powering a induction motor like a fridge or m wave.
 
trevskoda said:
As above, hence i showed the trip type fuses, i use one for my fridge, always go a bit bigger, so if you require a 30 anp trip fit a 40 or bigger if powering a induction motor like a fridge or m wave.
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I would not use the breakers instead of fuses. unless you get decent branded ones (which are much more expensive then the ones on ebay or the slave-trading temu, they will either trip at a lower current then specified, or they will never trip.
 
merl said:
This is always an issue because you can't get a multi-purpose fuse holder that covers the whole range. Looks like you're going to have a blade fuse box and then a couple of separate large single stand alone fuses. If you were fastidious you could buy a 2 or 3 way ANL fuse box to do the big stuff.but if you mount the large fuses side by side neatly it's nearly as neat.
What you can do is connect just one (fat) cable from the battery to the 50A vanbits fuse and then loop out of the fuse input and into your new ANL fuse and then loop again out of that and into your blade fuse box. That way you only have one feed off of the battery 👍
Click to expand...
 
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