Solar Panel Fitting

[terry111]

Hi
I have a Globecar Campscout (Ducato panel van conversion) and am thinking of having solar panels fitted (I won't be doing it myself). Seems best to get as big a panel as possible and fitters have suggested 2 x 100w panels or 1 x 275w panel (there is quite a lot of space on the roof).

As for fitting, some seem to glue them straight on to the metal roof, orthers glue the feet on to the roof and presumably the panels are somehow fixed to the feet.

Surely if the panel is glued on to the roof and the panel gets damaged (eg in a hailstorm), it will be very difficult to get it off to replace it.

I would be interested in the thoughts of members.

Thanks
Terry

 

[Clunegapyears]

Feet.

 

[n brown]

panels like to have a gap under for cooling .
any gluing just sticks to the top layer of paint
i recommend gluing the brackets with Stixall and bolting them as well with self drilling roofing bolts

 

[shaunr68]

What I've always done on 3 different MHs and will be doing on the next is cut sections of aluminium angle, pop riveted to the sides of the panels and then bonded to the roof with Sikaflex 512. If they ever need to be removed it's a case of either cheese wire to the adhesive or drilling out the rivets. 300w on the previous MH, a little 4.8m Autocruise Vista:

 

[yeoblade]

If your panels are damaged by a hailstorm then that would probably be the least of your worries.
Stixall used on both my installations.

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk

 

[wildebus]

I take the approach of using having panels bolted to the mount, and having the mount permanently fixed to the roof.

So of using adhesive, stick the mount to the roof, but bolt the panel to the mount. That way if the panel needs to be removed for any reason it is simple and easy to do to undo without disturbing the roof itself.

 

[phillybarbour]

I’ve had solar on my last three vans all on feet, including on my last Globecar Campscout Revolution.

 

[r4dent]

Surely if the panel is glued on to the roof and the panel gets damaged (eg in a hailstorm), it will be very difficult to get it off to replace it.

We were in a "golfball" hailstorm in France. Every vehicle suffered damage. Cars had their windscreens; rear windows and headlights smashed. We has skylights shattered and a roof that needed replacing. The lights around the site were broken; awnings shredded. The local mayor declared a state of emergency. It was very frightening.

Not a single solar panel was damaged.

 

[groyne]

I got a flexible panel and stuck it down.

 

[molly 2]

panels like to have a gap under for cooling .
any gluing just sticks to the top layer of paint
i recommend gluing the brackets with Stixall and bolting them as well with self drilling roofing bolts

WOULD

You. Screw to a GRP roof ?

 

[kampaman]

I have 2 100watt panels on my van, and like someone else said best to have a little gap under them for cooling IMO. I bolted them down with the feet fixings, just silicone sealer under first incase of leaks, that was 3 years ago, so far no leaks. Only thing I would say, is I did mine myself, and I put an inline switch in (a 300 watt one) so I can turn the panels on/off when I want, as continuously charging the batteries 24/7 will drastically shorten their life. I know someone who had to replace his leisure batteries every 9 months!

 

[shaunr68]

I have 2 100watt panels on my van, and like someone else said best to have a little gap under them for cooling IMO. I bolted them down with the feet fixings, just silicone sealer under first incase of leaks, that was 3 years ago, so far no leaks. Only thing I would say, is I did mine myself, and I put an inline switch in (a 300 watt one) so I can turn the panels on/off when I want, as continuously charging the batteries 24/7 will drastically shorten their life. I know someone who had to replace his leisure batteries every 9 months!

I'm sure a decent regulator will maintain a trickle charge on the batteries so they won't be on a constant bulk charge.

However I did install a switch on the live feed between the panels and regulator in order to isolate the panels, in case I ever need to disconnect the batteries.

One of these:

 

[Canalsman]

Only thing I would say, is I did mine myself, and I put an inline switch in (a 300 watt one) so I can turn the panels on/off when I want, as continuously charging the batteries 24/7 will drastically shorten their life. I know someone who had to replace his leisure batteries every 9 months!

Sorry but that's just wrong ...

Use a quality solar regulator, MPPT ideally, which includes a multi-stage charging regime and the battery life will be extended significantly, not reduced!

 

[trevskoda]

Gap under mine and gland entry point under as well,i used fence brackets bolted through and same on panel sides.
I ran my panel through a fuse block before and after regulator,so if i want to remove a battery i just pull the panel fuse.

 

[Channa]

To attach the brackets I use /used tigerseal, If it can keep body spoilers and the ilk kept on in high performance cars Solar panels should be no problem and that theory has been so far borne out.

Air circulation under the panel is important and it is also good practice to keep cable runs as short as practically possible, (negates any voltage drops) Location of the panel needs considering too, Avoid where practicable Shadows cast by roof vents and flues. partial obstruction by shadows can adversely affect performance.

Occasionally panels can get damaged in transit and not always obvious so before glueing drilling anything a quick check with a multimeter to confirm an open circuit confirms all is in order before proceeding saves a lot of heartache later if the panel is knackered and needs a replacement

Channa

 

[Deleted member 12539]

I have fitted solar panels to both my motorhomes, and several other vans belonging to friends and family.
I stuck down the majority of the panel brackets with Sikaflex, and only once did I use a combination of Sikaflex and screws (on my own van).
The panels were then screwed to the brackets, which would allow them to be exchanged if needed.
The panels are raised to allow some cooling air flow, but not high enough to get a hand under for cleaning

When I changed vans I attempted to remove the stuck down brackets from the roof and ended up removing a small piece of the roof with the bracket (I will use cheese wire next time).
I try to fit the panels behind roof vents to offer some wind protection when driving along, this also allows for the cleaning of the panels through the roof vent if it is wide enough.

I currently have a 100W and a 160W panel on the roof, however the older (6yrs old) 100W does not seem to do much in the amp department, I believe it is knackered.

 

[n brown]

i agree that sika and stixall pretty much stick panel brackets permanently, but knowing human nature , the thought that the person who painted the roof was having a bad day and couldn't be arsed to prep properly , is enough to make me prefer the reassurance of belt and braces , and use bolts as well

 

[wildebus]

i agree that sika and stixall pretty much stick panel brackets permanently, but knowing human nature , the thought that the person who painted the roof was having a bad day and couldn't be arsed to prep properly , is enough to make me prefer the reassurance of belt and braces , and use bolts as well

This to me is the key thing. Sikaflex or whatever could be good enough to stick anything to anything, but if the "thing" it is stuck to is not adhered properly to the substrate below, it will make sod all difference how good the Sikaflex was.

Sprinter roof paint in particular is meant to be renowned to lack adhesion to the metal so relying on just glue for a panel to one of those roofs for example would be pretty risky

 

[shaunr68]

Why? You could just disconnect one cable from the panels if needed. The more bits you add, the more there is to go wrong.

Yes I could pull the -ve input from the panels but the cable is then left dangling around worryingly close to the +ve input on the regulator. So to be sure I'd have to tape it up and cable tie it out of the way. Alternatively I could go clambering on the roof and disconnect the MC4 connectors. I'd prefer to do a neat job where the panels can be isolated easily and quickly, and realistically there's not a huge amount to go wrong with a heavy duty 12v switch.

 

[yeoblade]

I have fitted solar panels to both my motorhomes, and several other vans belonging to friends and family.
/snip

I currently have a 100W and a 160W panel on the roof, however the older (6yrs old) 100W does not seem to do much in the amp department, I believe it is knackered.

Combining different wattage panels can produce a lot less than the sum of the two! Or just knackered!